AROUND  THE  WORLD 


■"   ■  4   * 

* 

)   G   E  L 

kL   fcft 

V.  *£ 

L  i     f 

*: 

<4&IJ* 


A  S~<TT   A 


RT  OF  ALOHA'S   i 


^XJ^ 


ASIA 


^ 
£> 


E  AROUND   THE   WORLD 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 


PRESENTED  BY 

PROF. CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


Aloha  Around  the  World 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2008  with  funding  from 

Microsoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/alohaaroundworldOOvogerich 


Aloha  Around  the  World 


By 

Karl  Vogel 

With  an  Introduction  by 
Commodore  Arthur  Gurtiss  James 


With  95  Illustrations  from  Original  Photographs 


Second  Impression 


G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons 

New  York  London 

Cbe    iknfckcrbocfcer    press 

1923 


Copyright,  1922. 

by 

G.  P.  Putnam's  Sons 


Published,  November,  102a 
Reprinted,  January,  1923 


/5ft 


Made  in  the  United  States  of  America 


To 
A.  C.  J. 

AND 
H.   P.  J. 

WHO  MADE  THESE  PAGES 
POSSIBLE 


INTRODUCTION 

'"THE  dream  of  a  lifetime  has  been  accomplished  I 

Ever  since  as  a  boy  my  imagination  was  fired 
by  Lady  Brassey's  inimitable  "Voyage  of  the  Sun- 
beam," to  circumnavigate  the  globe,  it  has  been  my 
fixed  purpose  to  go  and  do  likewise.  In  1893,  the  first 
step  in  preparation  was  taken  when  my  father  gave  me 
the  grand  old  schooner  yacht  Coronet,  and  in  her  the 
first  lessons  in  seamanship  and  navigation  were  taken, 
under  the  tutelage  of  a  type  of  seaman  I  regret  to  say 
now  almost  extinct — Captain  C.  S.  Crosby — who,  I 
verily  believe,  had  never  in  his  sixty  years  and  more  at 
sea  been  in  anything  but  a  sailing  ship.  My  wife  and  I 
sailed  nearly  60,000  miles  including  trips  to  the  West 
Indies,  the  Gulf  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  many  voyages 
along  the  eastern  coast  of  the  United  States,  but  most 
instructive  and  enjoyable  of  all,  a  five  months'  expedi- 
tion to  Japan,  outward  bound  by  way  of  the  Trade 
Winds  and  the  Hawaiian  Islands  and  returning  across 
the  North  Pacific  on  the  great  circle  from  Yokohama  to 
San  Francisco.  Coronet  was,  of  course,  strictly  a  sailing 
vessel,  without  auxiliary  power,  of  only  160  tons,  125  ft. 
long  and  27  ft.  beam,  but  an  ideal  type  in  which  the 
young  and  inexperienced  sailor  could  gain  experience. 

vii 


M311791 


viii  Introduction 

The  fulfilment  of  the  Round  the  World  dream  was 
not  to  be  accomplished,  however,  at  this  early  stage  of 
our  yachting  career,  and  in  1899,  the  first  Aloha  was 
built  in  the  hope  that  in  her  the  dream  might  become  a 
reality.  She  was  a  splendid  little  vessel  of  306  tons, 
130  ft.  long,  27  ft.  beam,  and  with  auxiliary  steam  power. 
On  her  maiden  voyage  in  1900,  we  made  a  winter  cross- 
ing of  the  North  Atlantic  and  cruised  for  five  months 
in  the  Mediterranean.  Between  1900  and  1909,  we 
made  yearly  voyages  to  different  points  of  interest 
including  the  West  Indies,  Iceland,  Norway,  along  the 
west  coast  of  Scotland,  and  many  voyages  to  England 
and  back  simply  for  the  sake  of  the  glorious  days  at  sea 
which,  after  all,  is  the  chief  charm  of  yachting.  Land 
and  sightseeing  are  all  very  well  as  objectives,  but  what 
stands  out  in  anticipation  as  well  as  in  memory,  is  the 
intimate  contact  with  the  ocean  itself,  which  never  can 
be  found  on  the  deck  of  an  ocean  liner  but  which  can 
only  be  experienced  in  the  daily  routine  of  a  long  ocean 
voyage,  under  sail  alone,  on  a  small  ship.  The  wander- 
ings of  the  first  Aloha  carried  us  safely  and  happily 
152,560  miles,  all  of  which  was  north  of  the  equator  and 
most  of  it  in  West  Longitude.  Although  built  for  the 
purpose,  the  first  Aloha  did  not  have  the  good  fortune 
to  be  the  ship  destined  to  fulfil  the  dream. 

Advancing  years  and  the  desire  for  additional  creature 
comforts  was  the  reason  for  building  the  present  Aloha 
in  1910.  Nobly  has  she  performed  her  part  and  I  can 
think  of  no  way  in  which  she  could  be  improved,  unless 
the  development  of  the  Diesel  engine  may  at  some  time 


Introduction  ix 

make  it  advisable  to  substitute  that  power  for  her  auxil- 
iary steam  plant. 

From  1910,  and  until  the  Government  took  her  over 
for  use  in  the  Great  War,  she  made  four  trips  across  the 
Atlantic  and  back,  on  one  of  them  going  as  far  to  the 
eastward  as  Port  Sudan  in  the  Red  Sea,  sailing  from 
191  o  to  1917  about  60,000  miles;  and  now  in  her  the 
dream  has  been  realized. 

Its  fulfilment,  however,  I  hope  does  not  mark  the 
end  of  her  career,  as  there  are  still  many  worlds  to 
conquer  and  if  our  lives  are  spared,  I  hope  that  her  flag 
will  still  often  be  seen  on  the  Seven  Seas. 

Arthur  Curtiss  James. 

New  York,  Oct.  6, 1922. 


CONTENTS 

CHAPTER  PAGE 

I. — The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         .         .        3 


II. — Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name 

III.— Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon 

IV. — Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust 

V. — Down  the  Yangtze  and  to  the  City  of 
Dreadful  Night  .... 


VI. — America  in  the  Far  East 
VII. — Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World    . 
VIII. — From  Singapore  to  Rangoon   . 

IX. — KlNCHENJUNGA  AND  BENARES      . 

X. — Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  and  Mosques 
XI. — Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box    . 
XII. — Where  Time  Began 

Appendix 

Index 


32 

54 
82 

109 
131 
147 
168 
182 
200 
225 
249 
263 
269 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGB 

Aloha  .         ...         .         .         .  Frontispiece 

Aloha's  Quarter  Deck        .         .         .         .         .  6 

A  Good  Catch 6 

Aloha  in  the  Gatun  Lock  .         ....         .  12 

The  Noon  Sight 26 

Capturing  a  Shark      .         .         .         .         .         .  26 

OnomeaArch 32 

KlLAUEA 32 

Hawaiian  Girl 36 

Auction .42 

Commodore  and  Mrs.  James         .         .         .         .42 

The  Red  Lacquer  Bridge 58 

A  Terrace  Near  the  Tomb  of  Ieyasu  ...      60 

Wayside  Tea  House 68 

Sacred  Deer  at  Nara  .         .         .         .         .68 

The  Park  at  Nara 78 

The  Great  Torii  at  Miyajima  .  .  .  .80 
Sunset  on  the  Inland  Sea  .....  82 
A  Korean  Mourner .82 

ziii 


xiv  Illustrations 


PAGE 


Peking  Union  Medical  College  Hospital   .         .  90 

Street  Scene,  Peking 90 

The  Forbidden  City 92 

The  Forbidden  City  (Another  view)        ...  92 

The  Altar  of  Heaven 94 

Pavilion  Near  the  Temple  of  Heaven         .         .  94 

The  Temple  of  Heaven 96 

Funeral  Procession 98 

Hillside  Near  Pa-Ta-Chu 98 

The  Wall 100 

Boys  at  the  Wall 100 

The  Wall 102 

The  Summer  Palace 104 

Sunset  on  the  Yangtze no 

Foochow 118 

Canton 126 

Canton  (Another  view) 126 

A  VlNTA  AT  lLOILO 132 

Filipinos  Diving 132 

Fort  Pillar  at  Zamboanga  .         .         .         .136 

Luncheon  Party  at  San  Ramon  .  .  .  .138 
The  Village  of  Kawa-Kawa  .  .  .  .140 
Native  House  in  Mindanao  .  .  .  .144 
Moro  Fishermen's  Houses  ....     146 


Illustrations  xv 

PAGE 

The  Main  Gate  of  Jolo 146 

soerabaia i48 

Bromo 150 

On  the  Road  to  Bromo 154 

Native  House  in  Eastern  Java   .         .         .         .     154 
Approaching  the  Boroboedoer    .         .         .         .156 

Tjandi  Boroboedoer 158 

Detail  of  Bas-Reliefs  of  the  Boroboedoer         .     160 

Javanese  Types .164 

Rice  Fields 164 

Shwe-Dagon 174 

Shwe-Dagon .     176 

A  Street  in  Rangoon  .         .         .         .         .         .180 

A  Burmese  Lumber  Yard 180 

Darjeeling 184 

A  Darjeeling  Belle 188 

A  Tibetan  Priest         .         .         .  .         .188 

Morning  Ablutions  in  the  Ganges      .         .         .192 

The  Burning  Ghat 194 

Snake  Charmers 196 

The  Taj  Mahal .'  200 

The  Taj  Mahal  . 202 

The  Pearl  Mosque 204 

Fatehpur  Sikri 206 


Heureux  qui,  comme  Ulysse,  a  fait  un  beau  voyage, 
Ou  comme  cestuy  la  qui  conquit  la  toison, 
Et  puis  est  retournS,  plein  d' usage  et  raison, 
Vivre  entre  ses  parents  le  reste  de  son  aagel 

Joachim  du  Bellay  (i 525-1 560) 


Aloha  Around  the  World 


Aloha  Around  the  World 

CHAPTER  I 

THE  ATLANTIC  AND  THE  PACIFIC 

A  LITTLE  before  eleven  (/clock  on  the  morning  of 
^*  September  15,  1921,  those  who  had  come  to  bid 
her  farewell  saw  Aloha  lying  motionless  in  the  East 
River — a  stately  vision  of  tall  gleaming  spars,  bright 
cordage,  and  shining  brass — every  detail  showing  with 
what  care  she  had  been  fitted  for  the  crowning  effort  of 
her  already  adventurous  career.  Even  the  accustomed 
black  of  her  graceful  hull  had  been  exchanged  for  a 
dress  of  dazzling  white  to  prepare  her  for  the  tropic 
suns  under  which  she  was  to  spend  the  coming  seasons 
in  carrying  out  her  commander's  bold  project  of  encir- 
cling the  globe,  an  undertaking  which  few  yachts  have 
essayed,  and  fewer  still  have  brought  to  a  successful 
termination.  As  six  bells  sounded  on  her  decks,  she 
suddenly  became  a  thing  of  life,  her  anchor  rose  for  the 
last  time  in  many  months  from  familiar  waters,  the 
propeller  turned,  and  Aloha  was  off  on  her  longest 
voyage,  to  encounter  unknown  seas  and  touch  remotest 
shores.  To  the  sound  of  cheers  from  waving  friends  on 
shore  she  started  down  the  stream,  her  main  truck  so 

3 


4  Aloha  Around  the  World 

high  it  almost  grazed  the  roadway  of  the  lofty  Brooklyn 
Bridge,  and  headed  for  the  lower  bay  and  the  open  sea, 
heralded  on  her  way  by  a  noisy  chorus  from  the  whistles 
and  sirens  of  the  ferry-boats  and  all  the  other  harbor 
craft.  On  the  bridge  was  a  small  but  happy  and  ex- 
cited group — Commodore  and  Mrs.  Arthur  Curtiss 
James,  Miss  Florence  Sullivan,  Mr.  William  J.  Mathe- 
son,  Mr.  Andrew  P.  Alvord,  and  myself, — all  thrilled 
by  the  many  possibilities  of  the  unique  experience  ahead 
of  us.  Beside  the  quartermaster  at  the  wheel  stood  the 
Sailing  Master,  Captain  Bezanson;  the  Mates,  Mr. 
Johansen  and  Mr.  Nolan  were  busy  on  the  decks,  and 
the  Chief  Engineer,  Mr.  Clifford  was  at  his  post  below. 

All  afternoon  the  fine  weather  continued  with  a 
fairly  smooth  sea,  but  owing  to  the  reports  of  a  nasty 
blow  off  Hatteras  the  Commodore  decided  to  keep  in 
fairly  close  to  shore  and  to  proceed  under  steam,  as 
otherwise  the  S.  W.  breeze  would  have  compelled  us  to 
stand  off  far  enough  to  make  it  likely  that  we  would  run 
into  bad  weather.  Later  in  the  afternoon  the  head 
sails,  stay  sails  and  spanker  were  set  and  we  bowled 
along  at  between  ten  and  eleven  knots.  During  the 
evening  the  wind  shifted  enough  to  permit  the  square 
sails  to  be  loosed  and  it  was  beautiful  to  see  the  big 
canvases  one  after  the  other  unfolding  in  the  brilliant 
moonlight. 

Friday \  Sept.  16th. — All  day  there  has  been  a  heavy 
swell  and  a  favoring  wind  so  that  at  times  we  have  made 
as  much  as  twelve  knots.  As  we  are  in  the  Gulf  Stream 
it  is  pretty  warm  tonight,  but  the  moon  is  full  and  with 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  5 

all  sail  set  the  ship  is  a  shape  of  almost  spectral  beauty. 
We  have  been  much  impressed  by  the  good  appearance 
of  the  crew.  Most  of  them  are  quite  young  and  they 
all  seem  to  be  much  above  the  average  in  type  and 
worthy  of  the  splendid  ship  they  serve. 

Aloha  is  an  auxiliary  yacht,  bark-rigged,  spreading 
twenty  thousand  square  feet  of  canvas,  and  with  triple 
expansion  engines  of  five  hundred  horse  power.  She 
was  built  in  1910  at  Quincy,  Mass.,  and  has  a  gross 
tonnage  of  six  hundred  and  fifty-nine,  and  a  net  ton- 
nage of  three  hundred  and  twenty-nine,  with  a  draft  of 
eighteen  feet.  On  the  water  line  she  measures  one 
hundred  and  sixty-five  feet,  on  deck  two  hundred  and 
one  feet  eight  inches,  and  from  figure  head  to  taffrail 
two  hundred  and  nineteen  feet.  Her  beam  is  thirty- 
five  feet  six  inches,  and  her  height  from  waterline  to 
main  truck  one  hundred  and  thirty-one  feet.  She 
carries  a  crew  of  thirty-eight,  consisting  of  a  sailing 
master,  two  mates,  carpenter,  boatswain,  wireless 
operator,  and  sixteen  seamen;  chief  engineer,  two  as- 
sistant engineers,  two  oilers,  two  firemen,  and  nine  in 
the  steward's  department,  including  the  stewardess. 

Lat.  37°.2c/  N.  Long.  74°.05'  W.  Distance  173 
miles. 

Saturday,  Sept.  17th. — It  has  been  a  day  of  variable 
light  breezes,  which  much  of  the  time  have  been  from 
the  south  so  that  progress  has  been  rather  slow.  At 
times  we  have  made  only  a  few  knots  an  hour,  but  dur- 
ing the  evening  the  wind  freshened  and  we  have  been 
doing  better,  though  the  course  is  S.  E.     In  the  after- 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  7 

allow  ourselves  to  become  too  deliberate.  It  is  wonder- 
fully pleasant  though,  and  the  moonlit  evenings  are 
enchanting.  We  are  so  far  to  the  east  of  the  regular 
steamship  lanes  that  we  have  the  ocean  to  ourselves 
and  have  not  felt  the  need  of  traffic  cops  to  clear  the 
way.  The  Captain  and  I  put  in  a  hard  morning  tinker- 
ing with  the  Nicholson  log  and  almost  cured  it,  one 
more  operation  will  finish  the  job.  In  the  afternoon  I 
gave  a  vaccination  party  which  was  well  attended  and 
a  good  time  was  had  by  all. 

Lat.  30049/  N.,  Long.  7i°.oo'  W.  Distance  153 
miles. 

Tuesday,  Sept.  20th. — The  weather  is  still  beautiful, 
too  beautiful  in  fact,  for  there  is  no  wind  and  we 
steamed  all  day.  At  about  five  there  was  some  promise 
of  a  breeze  and  the  fore  and  aft  sails  were  set,  and  dur- 
ing the  night  the  rest  of  the  canvas  was  spread  as  there 
was  every  indication  that  the  trades  were  coming  to  our 
rescue.  A  rain  squall  killed  the  wind,  however,  and 
the  rest  of  the  night  we  made  but  little  headway. 

Lat.  27°.38'  N.,  Long.  7i°.04'  W.  Distance  190 
miles. 

Wednesday ,  Sept.  21st. — Another  fine  day  with  light 
airs  during  the  forenoon  freshening  to  a  moderate 
breeze  later  in  the  day  so  that  some  of  the  time  we  were 
running  ten  to  eleven  knots,  with  all  sail  set.  The 
evening  was  particularly  lovely  with  fine  cloud  and 
moonlight  effects  and  everyone  was  in  the  mood  to 
enjoy  it.  We  have  adopted  a  definite  routine  for 
starting  the  day.    At  seven-thirty  all  the  males  as- 


8  Aloha  Around  the  World 

semble  on  deck  in  their  various  types  of  costumes  de  nuit 
of  which  those  of  William  and  of  Jake  represent  op- 
posite extremes  of  elaboration.  Then  to  the  sound  of 
pleasing  strains  from  the  victrola  and  before  the  de- 
lighted gaze  of  the  watch  on  deck  we  contort  ourselves 
through  as  many  of  the  "daily  dozen"  as  Jake  and 
Peter  can  endure.  After  that  one  of  the  chuckling 
Swedes  douses  us  with  buckets  of  cool  Atlantic  ocean 
and  we  retire  for  a  time  to  find  later  that  Jake  has 
already  finished  breakfast  and  is  jeering  at  us  for  being 
so  slow. 

Lat.  25°.oo'  N.,  Long.  7i°.27'  W.  Distance  160 
miles. 

Thursday,  Sept.  22nd. — The  most  important  events 
today  were  the  inauguration  of  the  deck  tennis  outfit, 
and  this  game  promises  to  become  very  popular.  It  is 
getting  warmer  as  we  are  reaching  lower  latitudes,  but 
the  sea  and  sky  continue  marvelous  and  the  sunset  to- 
night was  a  vision.  Jake  has  been  busy  with  the 
reckoning  and  promises  us  a  view  of  Turk's  Island  in 
the  morning  so  we  are  retiring  early  that  we  may  be  up 
betimes. 

Lat.  22°.05'  N.,  Long.  7i°.i5'  W.  Distance  155 
miles.    ' 

Friday,  Sept.  23rd. — We  were  all  up  early  especially 
Jake  and  the  Captain,  and  saw  Turk's  Island  slip  by 
in  the  distance,  but  the  land  is  so  low-lying  that  it  does 
not  make  a  very  interesting  seascape.  The  lighthouse 
could  be  seen  and  a  big  yellow  house  on  another  part  of 
the  island  but  that  was  about  all.     Peter  informed  us 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific  9 

that  it  gets  its  name  from  a  peculiar  form  of  cactus  that 
is  plentiful,  and  also  that  the  Turk's  Island  salt  is 
very  famous.  The  fine  weather  continues  but  the 
breeze  is  still  so  light  that  we  are  keeping  on  under 
steam.  Fluff  and  I  had  a  hotly  contested  game  of 
shuffle  board,  very  hotly  because  it  is  extremely  warm 
and  humid.  I  realized  this  to  my  cost  this  afternoon 
when  I  developed  some  films  and  ruined  them  by  using 
uncooled  water  to  rinse  them  before  fixing.  The  gela- 
tine was  so  softened  in  the  brief  time  that  the 
result  was  hopeless.  The  pathology  and  symptom- 
atology of  vaccination  have  become  the  most  absorb- 
ing topic  of  conversation  and  the  doctor  feels  like  a 
worm. 

Lat.  20°.55  N.,  Long.  7i°.24'  W.  Distance  105 
miles. 

Saturday,  Sept.  24th. — We  are  still  proceeding  with 
mingled  sail,  steam,  and  emotions,  for  while  we  love  the 
glorious  weather  we  share  Jake's  desire  for  more  wind. 
But  the  days  slip  by  so  very  pleasantly  that  to  most  of 
us  I  think  it  makes  very  little  difference  whether  we 
arrive  at  Panama  on  one  day  or  another.  During  the 
evening  after  we  had  run  past  the  light  on  Navassas 
Cay  and  had  our  last  glimpse  of  Haiti,  we  saw  the 
lights  of  a  steamer  and  by  using  the  blinker  got  in 
touch  with  her.  More  vaccinations  this  afternoon,  all 
hands  have  now  been  scratched,  or  rather  most  arms 
and  a  few  legs. 

Lat.  i9°.2o'  N.,  Long.  74°.36'  W.  Distance  210 
miles. 


io  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Sunday,  Sept.  2$th. — To  celebrate  the  day  all  the 
officers  are  appearing  in  white  and  very  smart  they 
look.  There  was  a  fair  sailing  breeze  and  a  little  more 
motion  than  before,  so  that  the  organist  had  to  make 
a  brave  struggle  to  see  the  service  through,  but  she  was 
game,  and  with  Harriet  leading  the  choir  the  music  was 
a  real  success.  In  the  evening  Jake  gave  a  concert  on 
the  pianola  and  finished  off  dripping  but  triumphant 
with  the  funeral  march  from  Gotterdammerung.  The 
wind  is  coming  up  stronger  all  the  time,  and  we  over- 
hauled at  a  great  rate  two  Government  tow  boats  taking 
targets  for  the  Navy  to  Hawaii. 

Lat.  I5°.58'  N.,  Long.  7o°.03'  W.  Distance  220 
miles. 

Monday,  Sept.  26th. — During  the  night  the  wind 
freshened  and  there  were  frequent  rain  squalls,  so  that 
for  the  first  time  when  we  appeared  on  deck  the  skies 
were  overcast  and  covered  with  hurrying  clouds.  The 
ship  was  rolling  a  great  deal  and  every  little  while  seas 
came  over  the  side  so  that  the  decks  were  constantly 
wet.  It  blew  so  hard  at  about  4  a.m.  that  the  fore- 
royal  sheet  carried  away  and  the  royals  were  taken  in. 
During  four  hours  we  covered  fifty-nine  miles  and  as 
Mr.  Nolan  expressed  it  "she  was  going  like  a  scared 
dog."  It  has  rained  hard  from  time  to  time  and  the 
canary  birds  (that  means  ' '  oilers  ")  have  made  their  first 
appearance.  During  the  day  conditions  improved  and 
the  sea  moderated  though  the  rain  squalls  continued. 
Late  in  the  afternoon  the  wind  hauled  around  so  that  in 
order  not  to  lose  time  Jake  took  in  sail  and  went  on 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         n 

under  steam.  We  were  amused  by  a  large  bird  which 
William  said  was  one  of  the  gannets,  which  roosted  on 
the  end  of  the  spanker  boom  and  sat  there  very  calmly 
making  its  toilet  while  Peter  tickled  its  toes.  The 
night  was  a  very  roily  one  and  bureau  drawers  and  the 
like  were  slipping  all  over  the  place.  The  Captain 
told  me  of  Aloha's  record  run  of  180  miles  in  twelve 
hours  and  twenty  minutes  off  the  Azores,  and  of  her 
making  as  much  as  seventeen  knots. 

Lat.  I5°.57'  N.,  Long.  78°.23'  W.  Distance  278 
miles. 

Tuesday,  Sept.  27th.  Cristobal. — We  were  up  at 
six  to  see  Panama  heave  in  sight,  but  it  came  along 
very  deliberately  and  it  was  not  until  much  later  that  we 
could  be  sure  of  Manzanillo  Point.  We  are  steaming 
along  under  both  boilers  and  expect  to  get  in  this  after- 
noon. The  Isthmus  gave  us  a  moist  welcome  for  there 
were  frequent  rain  squalls  as  we  steamed  along  the 
very  picturesque  coast  and  thought  of  how  relieved 
the  early  Spanish  navigators  must  have  been  when 
they  saw  its  purple  hills  come  into  sight  after  their  long 
and  adventurous  crossings.  At  a  quarter  after  five  we 
slowed  down  to  allow  the  pilot,  customs  officer,  and 
doctor  to  come  aboard.  The  latter  gave  us  pratique 
at  once  so  that  we  were  very  shortly  berthed  for  the 
night  close  to  the  docks.  The  men  of  the  party  went 
ashore  without  delay  to  make  enquiries  about  mail, 
etc.,  and  we  were  delighted  by  the  clean  and  well  kept 
appearance  of  the  streets  of  Colon,  and  by  the  fine 
character  of  the  office  buildings,  especially  those  of  the 


12  Aloha  Around  the  World 

steamship  companies.  We  met  Mr.  Coffin,  Chief  Dis- 
patcher of  the  Canal  and  Mr.  Williams,  the  Chief 
Admeasurer,  who  had  been  expecting  our  arrival  and 
went  back  to  the  yacht  with  us  while  we  had  dinner. 
Coaling  operations  were  already  under  way  and  the 
yacht  was  not  its  usual  immaculate  self,  so  we  were 
glad  to  go  ashore  again  and  under  the  guidance  of  the 
two  officials  we  all  motored  about  the  town.  On  cross- 
ing the  railroad  tracks  one  leaves  the  American  City  of 
Cristobal  and  is  in  the  Spanish  City  of  Colon,  where 
wide-open  bars  in  great  profusion  with  splendid  rows  of 
bottles  exposed  to  view  presented  a  novel  sight  to  our 
unaccustomed  eyes.  The  dwellings  of  the  employees 
seem  most  attractive  and  well  adapted  to  the  condi- 
tions, and  the  Hotel  Washington  is  big  and  inviting 
with  a  splendid  sea  view  and  a  huge  swimming  pool. 
In  front  of  it  is  the  famous  statue  of  Columbus  which 
used  to  ornament  the  garden  of  DeLesseps'  residence. 

Wednesday,  Sept.  28th.  Panama. — Harriet,  Peter, 
and  William  motored  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Williams  to 
the  Gatun  Golf  Links  to  play  a  round  while  waiting  for 
Aloha  to  arrive.  Jake  and  I  did  some  errands  and  then 
with  Fluff  accompanied  Mr.  Coffin  in  the  launch  to  the 
locks.  We  saw  these  in  action  while  some  ships  were 
being  passed  through  and  were  taken  into  the  control 
room  in  which  a  miniature  model  of  the  locks  is  used  as 
a  guide  in  operating  the  gates  and  valves,  all  the  move- 
ments occurring  in  the  locks  being  reproduced  in  the 
model.  We  then  joined  the  others  on  the  nine-million- 
dollar  golf  course,  which  cost  so  much  because  it  is  all 


Aloha  in  the  Gatun  Lock 

This  is  the  first  of  the  flight  of  three  locks  that  serve  to  raise  a  vessel  leaving  the  Atlantic,  eighty- 
five  feet  higher  to  the  level  of  Gatun  Lake.  The  gate  behind  Aloha  has  been  closed,  and  the  water 
is  pouring  into  the  lock  through  openings  in  its  floor.  On  the  right  may  be  seen  the  "  electric  mules," 
forward  and  aft,  that  tow  the  vessel  through  the  locks  and,  if  necessary,  check  its  speed. 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         13 

filled-in  ground  and  really  forms  part  of  the  Gatun 
Dam,  and  also  saw  the  magnificent  display  of  water 
pouring  through  one  of  the  spillway  gates  which  was 
especially  turned  on  for  us.  By  this  time  Aloha  was 
through  the  locks  and  we  boarded  her  in  time  for 
luncheon,  and  proceeded  across  Gatun  Lake,  through 
which  one  floats  over  the  old  Panama  Railroad  tracks, 
and  over  the  tops  of  the  submerged  forest  that  formerly 
filled  this  valley  before  the  dam  caused  it  to  be  flooded. 
Gradually  the  lake  narrowed,  the  channel  made  several 
bends,  and  we  entered  the  Culebra  cut  and  were  able  to 
realize  the  magnitude  of  the  task  of  excavation  and  also 
how  easily  the  slides  can  occur.  On  the  right  we  saw 
the  hill  named  for  Balboa  from  which  "  With  eagle  eyes 
he  stared  at  the  Pacific — silent  upon  a  peak  in  Darien," 
and  then  passed  through  Pedro  Miguel  and  Miraflores 
Locks.  During  this  passage  we  were  able  to  see  how  . 
efficiently  and  smoothly  the  mechanism  of  the  locks 
operates  and  how  completely  the  vessels  going  through 
are  kept  under  the  control  of  the  queer-looking  little 
electric  tractors.  Almost  before  we  knew  it  we  had 
dropped  down  to  the  level  of  the  Pacific  and  were  on 
our  way  to  our  berth  at  one  of  the  big  new  docks  at 
Panama  where  we  made  fast  at  five-fifty  p.m.  The 
Speejacks,  which  is  on  its  way  to  the  South  Sea  Islands 
was  docked  not  far  from  us  and  her  owner,  Mr.  Gowan, 
came  aboard  and  a  little  later  the  acting  Governor, 
Colonel  Walker  also  made  a  call. 

Thursday,   Sept.   29th.    Panama   to  Hilo. — It  was 
pretty  hot  lying  at  the  dock  instead  of  having  breezes 


14  Aloha  Around  the  World 

all  about  us  as  usual,  but  no  one  found  it  very  uncom- 
fortable and  this  morning  we  started  off  early  in  Colonel 
Walker's  car  which  he  had  placed  at  our  disposal.  The 
official  residences  on  Balboa  hill  are  splendidly  situ- 
ated and  have  fine  plantations  of  shrubbery  and  trees 
which  gave  plenty  of  opportunities  for  Harriet  and 
William  to  astonish  us  with  the  extent  of  their  botanical 
knowledge.  The  Ancon  hospital  has  most  beautiful 
grounds  and  winding  drives,  and  the  buildings  are 
marvels  of  attractiveness  and  suitability  for  their  pur- 
poses. The  Spanish  city  itself  was  intensely  interesting 
with  its  narrow  streets  often  darkened  by  the  over- 
hanging balconies  nearly  always  gay  with  flowers. 
There  are  a  number  of  picturesque  squares  thickly  set 
with  palms  and  other  trees  and  surrounded  by  buildings 
very  distinctive  in  architecture  and  coloring,  but  the 
most  interesting  feature  of  all  were  the  throngs  of  dark- 
skinned  people,  most  diversified  in  type,  to  be  seen  on 
every  hand.  We  saw  the  famous  flat  arch  which  is 
always  pointed  out  by  the  natives  as  evidence  of  the 
city's  immunity  from  earthquake  damage;  bought 
some  hats,  which  are  especially  cheap  just  now,  and 
Fluff  finally  found  again  a  shop  near  the  market  where 
she  had  seen  some  particularly  delightful  yellow  ban- 
danas and  returned  after  a  brief  disappearance  greatly 
elated  with  a  whole  armful  of  them  while  Harriet  was 
filling  the  car  with  pineapples  and  papayas.  Colonel  and 
Mrs.  Walker  came  to  lunch  and  Mrs.  Walker  told  of 
her  adventures  in  Haiti  during  an  enforced  four  days' 
stay  there  last  week  when  the  steamer  on  which  she  was 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         15 

coming  here  caught  fire  and  the  passengers  had  to  be 
landed.  Afterwards,  Peter,  William,  and  I  drove 
around  the  town  enjoying  the  strangeness  of  its  street 
scenes  and  at  4:05  p.m.  we  got  under  way  again, 
dropping  the  pilot  at  4:40  p.m.  The  journey  down  the 
bay  was  a  vision  of  delight,  the  islands  with  their  fish- 
ing villages  straggling  up  the  rocky  slopes  made  one 
think  of  the  Bay  of  Naples  and  the  purple  mountain 
ranges  on  the  mainland  wreathed  in  golden  sunset 
clouds  seemed  of  more  than  earthly  beauty.  Speejacks 
started  a  little  after  us  in  tow  of  the  steamship  Eastern 
Queen  and  we  exchanged  farewell  messages. 

Friday,  Sept.  30th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  weather 
was  fine  but  the  wind  remained  very  light.  The  north- 
ern shore  of  the  Gulf  of  Panama  stayed  in  sight  for 
most  of  the  day,  but  it  was  pleasant  to  feel  that  we 
were  at  last  on  the  Pacific.  The  sunset  display  was 
even  more  magnificent  than  usual  and  the  Pacific 
Ocean  seems  to  us  well  named. 

Lat.  6°.47/  N.,  Long.  8i°.i2'  W.  Distance  192 
miles. 

Saturday,  Oct.  1st.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  weather 
continues  fine  but  there  is  still  very  little  wind  and 
what  there  is,  is  almost  dead  ahead,  so  we  have  con- 
tinued to  steam  under  one  boiler.  In  the  afternoon 
we  passed  through  a  school  of  bonitas  traveling  at 
great  speed  across  our  course  and  the  Captain  got  one 
on  his  line  but  the  leader  broke  while  he  was  hauling 
him  in.  We  have  passed  several  large  deep  sea  turtles 
one  of  which  came  within  a  few  feet  of  the  ship,  and 


1 6  Aloha  Around  the  World 

porpoises  were  frequently  to  be  seen  in  considerable 
numbers. 

Lat.  7°43'  N.,  Long.  84°.02'  W.  Distance  185 
miles. 

Sunday,  Oct.  2nd. — We  are  still  in  the  doldrums 
and  are  proceeding  under  steam  from  one  boiler.  This 
gives  us  a  satisfactory  day's  run  with  a  little  assistance 
from  the  fore  and  aft  sails  and  Jake  estimates  that  at 
this  rate  of  coal  consumption,  which  means  about  two 
tons  a  day  more  than  is  needed  for  the  ship's  routine 
operations,  we  have  a  cruising  radius  of  about  five 
thousand  miles.  Flying  fish,  turtles,  and  porpoises  are 
becoming  more  numerous  and  after  service  this  after- 
noon there  was  lots  of  excitement  over  a  five-foot  dol- 
phin which  Peter  almost  landed,  but  it  shook  out  the 
hook  just  before  he  got  it  to  the  deck  and  escaped, 
to  the  satisfaction  of  the  ladies  and  the  disgust  of 
the  men. 

Lat.  9°.i3'  N.,  Long.  86°.5i'  W.     Distance  185  miles. 

Monday,  Oct.  3rd.  Panama  to  Hilo. — This  afternoon  a 
rain  squall  gave  us  the  opportunity  of  trying  our  new 
rain  catching  sail  but  the  shower  did  not  amount  to 
much  and  we  did  not  collect  a  great  deal  of  water. 
They  have  arranged  a  kind  of  octopus  of  rubber  hose 
just  aft  of  the  deckhouse  with  tentacles  connecting 
the  boat  deck  and  the  poop  deck  with  the  double 
bottom  tanks,  and  expect  that  this  will  be  very  effec- 
tive when  the  next  rain  storms  come  along.  Peter 
took  a  shot  with  his  rifle  at  a  passing  turtle  but  did 
not  disturb  its  slumbers.     It  has  become  noticeably 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         17 

cooler  and  for  several  evenings  we  have  resumed  having 
dinner  in  the  main  saloon. 

Lat.  90. 18'  N.,  Long.  90°.oo/  W.     Distance  195  miles. 

Tuesday,  Oct.  4th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — We  are  con- 
tinuing to  reel  off  the  miles  on  our  way  to  Hawaii  but 
are  still  under  steam.  After  lunch  the  breeze  freshened 
enough  for  Jake  to  turn  off  the  man  power,  as  Harriet 
calls  it,  and  set  all  sail,  and  the  rest  of  the  afternoon  we 
made  good  progress,  especially  during  one  squall  when 
we  tore  along  at  twelve  to  fourteen  knots.  Unfortu- 
nately, however,  this  did  not  keep  up  for  very  long  and 
at  ten  at  night  we  had  to  go  back  to  the  propeller.  We 
are  beginning  to  think  a  little  and  talk  a  great  deal  about 
the  Chinese  itinerary  and  William  as  usual  has  come  to 
the  front  with  an  astonishing  supply  of  useful  material 
in  the  way  of  maps,  guide-books,  and  time  tables. 

Lat.  io°.i4'  N.,  Long.  92°.32'  W.  Distance  150 
miles. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  5th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — We  are 
realizing  the  truth  of  Jake's  statement  that  the  Gulf 
of  Panama  is  one  of  the  hardest  places  in  the  world  to 
get  out  of  and  if  we  did  not  have  auxiliary  power  we 
should  feel  very  helpless.  Imray's  North  Pacific  Pilot 
published  in  1885  states  that:  "The  navigation  of 
the  approaches  to  the  Gulf  of  Panama  situated  as  they 
are  in  the  region  of  the  doldrums  with  the  land  of 
Central  America  considerably  affecting  the  Northern 
trade,  becomes  to  a  vessel  unaided  by  steam  one  of  the 
most  tedious,  uncertain  and  vexatious  undertakings 
known  to  the  sailor.  .    .    .     The  weather  met  with 


1 8  Aloha  Around  the  World 

can  hardly  be  better  illustrated  than  by  the  fact  that  in 
May,  1848,  H.M.S.  Herald  in  her  passage  towards  the 
Sandwich  Islands  although  towed  for  six  days  as  far 
west  as  89°.2o'  still  took  forty  days  from  Panama  to  1  io° 
West  owing  to  keeping  between  the  parallels  of  eight 
and  ten  degrees  north,  and  in  March  of  the  following 
year  in  the  meridian  of  8y°  and  the  latitude  of  8°  North 
only  made  thirty  miles  in  nine  days."  In  the  morning 
we  caught  a  big  fish  which  after  a  lot  of  argument  was 
determined  to  be  a  tunnyfish  or  albacore.  He  was 
cooked  for  lunch  and  the  meat  though  rather  dry  was 
very  good  and  not  unlike  veal  in  character.  Several 
showers  fell  during  the  afternoon,  evening,  and  night 
so  that  our  store  of  water  was  increased  by  1200  gallons, 
thus  justifying  the  installation  of  the  octopus. 

Lat.  i2°.io'  N.,  Long.  94°.32;  W.  Distance  165 
miles. 

Thursday,  Oct.  6  th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — During  the 
week  since  we  left  Panama  we  have  made  1292  miles, 
which  is  very  satisfactory  considering  the  conditions, 
but  we  are  hoping  soon  to  get  out  of  this  region  of 
westerly  winds  and  strike  the  northeast  trades  so  that 
we  can  become  a  sailing  ship  once  more. 

Lat.  I3°.39'  N.,  Long.  970. 18'  W.  Distance  185 
miles. 

Friday,  Oct.  7th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — Today  has  been 
the  hottest  and  most  oppressive  since  leaving  New 
York,  with  the  air  at  eighty-six  degrees  and  the  water 
at  eighty-seven.  The  sea  is  almost  without  a  ripple 
and  there  is  only  the  slightest  possible  swell.    We  are 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         19 

only  eighty  miles  off  the  Mexican  coast  but  there  is  not 
a  ship  in  sight,  though  the  radio  operator  has  been  con- 
versing with  five  or  six  vessels  that  are  within  one  hun- 
dred miles  of  us.  He  has  rigged  up  a  special  receiver 
of  his  own  and  has  been  able  to  keep  us  supplied  with 
"press"  each  morning,  very  often  receiving  the  news 
direct  from  New  York,  although  2500  miles  away,  and 
on  occasions  has  heard  stations  at  9000  miles  distance, 
such  as  Lyons,  France;  Sayville,  Long  Island;  Funa- 
bashi,  Japan ;  Honolulu  and  many  others.  The  big  event 
of  the  day  was  a  turtle  hunt,  which  resulted  in  a  bag  of 
two  weighing  about  thirty-five  to  forty  pounds  each. 
Mr.  Nolan  spied  them  a  little  after  lunch  and  Jake 
ordered  a  boat  lowered  in  pursuit.  Peter  shot  one 
through  the  shoulder  and  the  two  sailors  in  the  boat 
towed  them  back  to  the  ship.  The  chef  at  once  dis- 
sected one  of  them  to  the  great  interest  of  the  entire 
ship's  company  and  found  that  it  contained  a  hundred 
or  more  eggs  most  of  them  already  provided  with 
shells.  We  are  looking  forward  to  all  kinds  of  delect- 
able additions  to  the  menu. 

Lat.  i5°.07'  N.,  Long.  ioo°.03'  W.  Distance  186 
miles. 

Saturday,  Oct.  8th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — Yesterday 
was  hot  but  today  is  hotter.  There  is  no  wind  at  all 
and  the  sea  looks  like  polished  lapis  lazuli.  "  There 
ain't  a  wave  for  miles  and  miles,  except  the  jiggle  from 
the  screw"  and  we  all  feel  like  saying  "So  these  are  the 
doldrums."  I  have  been  delighted  to  find  in  various 
books  that  the  region  we  have  been  passing  through  is 


20  Aloha  Around  the  World 

spoken  of  as  the  ' '  quagmire  "  of  the  ocean,  which  shows 
that  our  experience  is  not  unusual.  The  ladies  appear 
cool  and  delightful  as  ever,  but  the  men  are  a  coatless, 
cravatless,  disreputable  looking  crowd.  At  dinner 
time  a  delicious  breeze  sprang  up  from  the  northeast 
with  real  cooling  and  driving  power  and  we  have  hopes 
of  the  morrow.  An  item  in  the  day's  ' '  press ' '  made  us 
marvel  anew  at  the  wonders  of  wireless  communica- 
tion. "New  York — The  Aux.  Yacht  Aloha  which  left 
here  on  Sept.  1 5th  to  encircle  the  globe  with  Commodore 
James  and  Mrs.  James  and  guests,  stopped  this  after- 
noon in  the  Pacific  Ocean  while  en  route  from  Panama 
to  Honolulu  to  catch  some  deep  sea  turtles.  Mr. 
Alvord  shot  one  turtle  and  immediately  a  boat  was  put 
off  and  brought  back  two.  Reports  from  the  Aloha's 
galley  state  that  there  will  be  turtle  soup  on  Saturday." 
The  latter  report  was  not  unfounded. 

Lat.  I50.56'  N.,  Long.  I02°.56'  W.  Distance  185 
miles. 

Sunday,  Oct.  gth.  Panama  to  Hilo. — This  morning 
we  woke  up  to  find  ourselves  slipping  quietly  through  the 
water  under  all  sail,  for  the  breeze  had  freshened  during 
the  night  so  that  steam  was  turned  off,  for  good,  we 
hope,  at  six  o'clock.  The  sky  was  overcast  and  there 
were  frequent  showers,  but  the  wind  increased  in  force 
and  during  the  afternoon  hauled  around  more  to  the 
northward  so  that  we  are  making  from  nine  to  ten 
miles  an  hour  on  our  proper  course.  It  has  grown 
much  cooler  rather  suddenly  and  there  is  every  indica- 
tion that  we  have  finished  with  calms  and  tropical 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific        21 

heat.  The  wireless  brought  another  interesting  item. 
"On  board  the  Aloha,  Mr.  Alvord  now  holds  the  record 
for  deck  quoits,  putting  four  rings  on  the  peg  out  of  a 
possible  five.  We  fear  that  he  will  soon  lose  his 
laurels,  as  Miss  Sullivan  was  practicing  all  by  herself 
yesterday  morning  and  her  record  now  stands  three 
on  the  peg  and  two  over  the  side.  The  two  over  the 
side  is  also  a  record."  The  temperature  today  was 
eighty  degrees  but  the  water  was  eighty-eight  degrees, 
which  must  be  another  record. 

Lat.  i5°45'  N.,  Long.  io6°.oo'  W.  Distance  181 
miles. 

Monday,  Oct.  ioth.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  peculiar 
behavior  of  the  elements  during  the  last  two  days  is 
revealing  itself  as  the  presage  of  what  promises  to  be  a 
really  and  truly  storm.  At  about  two  a.m.  the  wind 
began  to  increase  in  force  till  at  breakfast  time  it 
reached  the  intensity  of  a  moderate  gale;  there  were 
frequent  rain  squalls  and  the  sea  became  very  rough. 
In  the  words  of  the  Log  Book  "The  ship  labored 
heavily  and  shipped  much  water."  For  the  first  time 
on  the  trip  the  deckhouse  was  invaded  by  the  seas  and 
one  high  wave  came  bowling  in  through  the  door  and  a 
torrent  resembling  the  Gatun  Spillway  in  everything 
except  scenic  magnificence  surged  down  the  stairs. 
There  was  consternation  among  those  present  within, 
but  loud  wails  at  once  arose  from  Fluff's  room  whose 
occupant  was  reposing  on  her  bed  when  the  deluge 
poured  in,  and  saw  many  cherished  possessions  afloat  on 
a  flood  of  water  whose  vivid  pea-green  hue  indicated 


22  Aloha  Around  the  World 

that  the  stair  carpet  had  not  been  dyed  with  the 
products  of  the  company  for  the  reliability  of  whose 
manufactures  William  is  responsible.  With  a  double- 
reefed  spanker  and  only  a  little  fore  and  aft  canvas 
we  made  small  headway,  and  are  now  awaiting  develop- 
ments in  humid  expectation. 

Lat.  I4°.i2'  N.,  Long.  io8°.oo'  W.  Distance  155 
miles. 

Tuesday,  Oct.  nth.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  weather 
conditions  continued  as  before  and  we  remained  practi- 
cally hove-to  so  that  we  made  but  little  progress  in  a 
horizontal  direction,  and  that  far  to  the  southward  of 
our  course,  but  vertically  and  laterally  we  must  have 
covered  an  enormous  distance.  The  seas  were  very 
high  and  irregular,  and  came  aboard  constantly  so  that 
rubber  boots  and  oilers  were  a  necessity  for  everyone 
except  Jake  who  still  defies  the  elements  in  his  ac- 
customed garb,  quaker  gray  in  color  and  Palm  Beach 
in  texture.  One  huge  wave  caught  Buxton  unpre- 
pared and  lifted  him  bodily  from  the  deck,  head  first 
over  the  half  door  into  the  deckhouse  and  dumped  him 
on  his  hands  and  knees  half  way  down  the  room.  By 
a  miracle  he  was  not  hurt,  but  another  deluge  poured 
down  the  stairs.  By  common  consent  we  have  given 
up  "the  daily  dozen"  but  the  acrobatic  contortions 
needed  in  moving  a  few  feet  or  even  in  sitting  still  much 
more  than  compensate  for  the  lack  of  those  gentle 
incitements  to  bodily  vigor. 

Lat.  I3°.22'  N.,  Long.  io8°.o6'  W.  Distance  55 
miles. 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         23 

Wednesday,  Oct.  12th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  gale 
continues,  and  everything  on  beard  is  just  as  wet  and 
jumpy  as  ever.  There  seems  to  be  no  sign  of  coming 
improvement,  but  the  wind  has  become  more  favorable 
and  as  the  ship  is  so  "byant"  as  one  of  the  officers  ex- 
pressed it,  we  are  able  to  keep  on  our  course  when  most 
vessels  would  be  obliged  to  remain  hove-to. 

Lat.  I4°.54'  N.  Long.  I09°.38'  W.  Distance  140 
miles. 

Thursday,  Oct.  13th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  wind 
and  weather  are  just  as  before  with  rather  more  violent 
rain  squalls,  but  we  have  become  quite  accustomed  to 
this  amphibious  existence  and  are  developing  real  sea 
legs.  Meal  times  are  a  genuine  test  of  everyone's 
ability  and  table  manners,  but  Buxton  and  Einar  are 
expert  as  jugglers  and  balancers,  so  that  serious  casual- 
ties to  the  astonishingly  elaborate  dishes  the  chef  con- 
tinues to  provide  are  rare.  The  center  of  the  hurricane 
seems  to  be  traveling  to  the  northeast. 

Lat.  i504o'  N.,  Long,  in°.3o'  W.  Distance  119 
miles. 

Friday,  Oct.  14th. — The  disturbance  we  are  passing 
through  is  evidently  a  revolving  storm  of  great  extent 
which  has  been  traveling  for  a  long  distance  to  the  north 
of  our  course  and  we  have  been  on  its  southern  edge, 
fairly  near  to  its  border,  but  Jake  has  kept  us  far  enough 
inside  to  profit  by  the  wind  and  make  progress  along 
our  great  circle,  to  which  we  have  returned  after  our 
brief  excursion  southwards  during  the  first  days  of  the 
gale.     The  wind  force  has  been  eight  to  nine  on  the 


24  Aloha  Around  the  World 

scale  (twelve  is  the  maximum)  and  the  clinometer  has 
registered  rolls  as  high  as  forty-two  degrees,  so  that 
we  have  experienced  all  the  sensations  of  a  real  storm. 
It  has  been  much  colder,  with  the  air  as  low  as  sixty- 
four  degrees,  and  a  sudden  drop  of  ten  degrees  in  the 
temperature  of  the  water  today  has  been  rather  puzzling 
to  the  meteorologists — especially  as  it  rose  again  in 
twelve  hours  to  its  former  point  of  eighty  degrees. 

Lat.  i6o40'  N.,  Long.  1 12°. S7f  W.  Distance  105  miles. 

Saturday,  Oct.  15th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  day 
broke  clear  and  fine  and  at  last  it  appears  as  if  the  storm 
were  moderating,  though  the  seas  are  still  very  high. 
The  wind  has  dropped  to  what  the  Log  Book  calls  a 
fresh  breeze  and  the  square  sails  were  set  early  this 
morning.  Both  the  fore-royal  and  topgallant  sails 
promptly  blew  to  ribbons,  but  new  canvas  was  bent 
and  we  are  making  progress  in  spite  of  the  heavy 
head  seas  which  hold  us  back  tremendously. 

Lat.  I7°.i5;  N.,  Long.  ii5°.oo/  W.  Distance  135 
miles. 

Sunday y  Oct.  16 th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — A  beautiful 
clear  day  with  a  warm  sun  that  encourages  everyone 
to  bring  up  his  soaked  belongings  and  spread  them  out 
to  dry.  The  forecastle  looks  like  the  Roman  Rag 
Market  and  even  Jake's  famous  Palm  Beach  suit,  that 
has  so  successfully  withstood  the  impact  of  wind  and 
wave,  now  adorns  a  line  on  the  boat  deck  and  flutters 
gaily  in  the  breeze — the  glorious  emblem  of  our  victory 
over  the  assaults  of  Neptune  and  ^Eolus.  The  obsti- 
nate head  sea  continues,  however,  and  holds  us  back 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         25 

with  the  result  that  our  runs  are  disappointingly  short. 
The  storm  has  evidently  been  one  of  very  great  extent 
and  violence.  This  afternoon  the  wind  dropped  almost 
completely  so  that  the  sails  have  slatted  dolefully 
against  the  rigging  and  after  dinner  Jake  put  the  pro- 
peller in  action  again  so  that  we  are  once  more  under 
steam  from  one  boiler.  At  dinner  Harriet  conducted 
a  rigorous  cross-examination,  but  the  returns  proved 
that  not  one  of  us  since  the  beginning  of  the  trip  had 
shown  any  similarity  to  the  little  boy  in  Fluff's  story 
who,  when  his  mother  asked  him,  "And  what  did 
mama's  darling  do  at  the  party?"  replied,  "I  frowed 
up." 

Lat.  I7°.i5'  N.,  Long.  u6°.35'  W.  Distance  90 
miles. 

Monday,  Oct.  17th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  sea  is 
quite  moderate  and  the  westerly  swell  has  gone  down 
so  that  at  eleven-thirty  steam  was  rung  off.  The  breeze 
did  not  fulfill  its  promise,  however,  and  at  five-thirty 
we  had  to  continue  on  our  way  under  bare  poles  and 
to  the  accompaniment  of  the  throb  of  the  propeller. 
Jake  and  I  spent  the  evening  in  the  saloon  classifying 
and  rearranging  the  books  in  all  the  cases,  and  soon 
realized  how  extensive  Aloha's  library  is.  The  others 
unselfishly  refrained  from  lessening  our  enjoyment  by 
any  participation  in  this  after-dinner  sport. 

Lat.  i7°.io/  N.,  Long.  n8°.35'  W.  Distance  115 
miles. 

Tuesday y  Oct.  18 th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — We  are  still 
steaming  steadily  onward  over  a  tranquil  but  windless 


26  Aloha  Around  the  World 

ocean.  Jake  and  I  finished  the  arrangement  of  the 
library  tonight,  but  this  time  not  unassisted  for  Harriet 
remained  with  us  in  spite  of  the  heavy  roll  and  the 
heat  of  the  saloon,  and  the  task  was  soon  ended.  The 
radio  operator  succeeded  in  getting  a  despatch  through 
to  San  Francisco,  from  which  we  are  distant  over 
twelve  hundred  miles,  and  this  is  our  first  communica- 
tion with  the  shore  for  many  days. 

Lat.  I7°.53'  N.,  Long.  I2i°.02'  W.  Distance  149 
miles. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  igth.  Panama  to  Hilo. — The  sky 
and  sea  are  still  beyond  criticism  but  the  trade  winds 
we  are  so  anxiously  awaiting  are  not  in  evidence  and  we 
are  continuing  under  power.  An  amusing  coincidence 
occurred  today.  While  listening  to  the  world  at  large 
this  afternoon  the  operator  heard  the  word  Aloha 
speeding  past  him  through  the  ether  and  was  able  to 
intercept  a  message  from  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu 
directed  to  the  yacht,  to  the  following  effect.  "Yacht 
Aloha  Radio  Honolulu,  Young  Womens.  .  .  .  cam- 
paign started  will  you  contribute.  Love.  Happy 
Journey." 

Lat.  i8°.02'  N.,  Long.  I23°.32r  W.  Distance  151 
miles. 

Thursday,  Oct.  20th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — For  a  time 
it  seemed  as  if  a  little  wind  had  sprung  up  and  come  to 
help  us  along,  and  the  steam  was  shut  off  all  after- 
noon, but  it  soon  became  evident  that  the  gentle 
zephyr  in  question  had  no  intention  whatever  of  being 
useful  and  so  we  are  back  under  power  again.    By  way 


The  Noon  Sight 

Commodore  James  at  his  usual  mid-day  occupation. 


--mm 

\ 

s 
u 

I         ^^^^■«|Jl       J 

________■■  i 

_^5 

■^  ^  p1^ 

C     1 

.  ^ 

'^f         ^jiS^*  •     ^&  ■*<♦ 

17 

•a 

„_  -<**        T^j^^K  *-'*^" 

1. 

H. 

J' 

,  1 1  n 

Capturing  a  Shark 

Although  only  about  six  feet  long  it  was  full  of  fight.     Near  the  tail  may  be  seen  a  remora 
still  attached  to  the  body  of  the  shark. 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         27 

of  compensation  for  this  disappointment  we  had  the 
excitement  of  capturing  a  shark.  He  was  first  spied 
from  aloft  and  soon  could  be  seen  from  the  deck,  his 
sleek,  emerald  green  body  seeming  to  slip  without  effort 
through  the  water.  A  hook  with  a  small  piece  of  meat 
was  dropped  overboard  without  exciting  his  interest, 
but  when  this  bait  was  replaced  by  a  huge  chunk  of 
pork  he  dove  for  it  at  once  and  after  he  had  gotten  hook 
and  all  well  down  in  his  insides,  he  was  hauled  aboard 
by  the  efforts  of  the  entire  watch.  He  landed  on  the 
deck,  six  feet  of  thrashing,  fighting  ugliness,  with  a 
number  of  remoras  still  sticking  to  him,  and  was 
dragged  forward  where  the  chef,  who  seems  to  be  the 
official  executioner  for  all  the  monsters  of  the  deep, 
administered  the  coup-de-grace.  In  his  interior  were 
found  several  pieces  of  remnants  from  the  galley  that 
had  been  thrown  overboard  in  the  course  of  the  morn- 
ing, showing  that  he  had  been  our  unseen  companion 
for  some  time.  He  was  not  like  an  ill-advised  brother  of 
his  that  William  told  us  of,  who  made  the  sad  mistake 
of  swallowing  a  barrel  and  then  starved  to  death,  because 
everything  he  consumed  after  that  entered  the  barrel 
and  remained  there.  At  any  rate  his  tail  has  been 
nailed  to  the  bow  sprit,  which  is  an  infallible  means  of 
raising  the  wind. 

Lat.  i8°.02'  N.,  Long.  I26°.32'  W.  Distance  165 
miles,     t 

Friday,  Oct.  21st.  Panama  to  Hilo. — It  is  getting 
much  cooler  and  everything  is  perfectly  delightful 
except  the  continued  reluctance  of  the  trade  winds  to 


28  Aloha  Around  the  World 

put  in  appearance.  We  are  beginning  to  think  that 
the  big  storm  must  have  so  disturbed  atmospheric  con- 
ditions that  all  the  usual  air  currents  have  been  abol- 
ished. We  are  having  a  wonderful  time  and  nothing 
could  be  more  enjoyable,  but  "Cest  magnifique,  mats 
ce  n'est  pas  la  guerre." 

Lat.  i8°.i4'  N.,  Long.  i29°.3o'  W.  Distance  183 
miles. 

Saturday,  Oct.  22nd.  Panama  to  Hilo. — Today  Jake 
concluded  that  we  had  burned  enough  good  pit  coal 
and  that  it  was  time  for  the  trade  winds  to  begin  to 
blow,  so  at  4:30  p.m.  steam  was  shut  off.  The  fact 
that  we  had  decided  to  put  up  with  no  more  nonsense 
from  the  elements  must  have  been  communicated  to 
headquarters  for  in  the  course  of  the  evening  a  nice 
little  northeast  breeze  sprang  up  which  soon  stiffened 
into  a  real  wind  that  carried  us  on  at  a  good  rate  during 
the  night. 

Our  steaming  record  from  Panama  is  as  follows  to 

noon  today. 

Total  distance  from  Panama 3559       miles 

Steam  on  one  boiler 342       hours 

Distance  under  steam 261 1       miles 

Average  per  hour  under  steam ...  7.63  knots 

Coal  on  hand 32       tons 

Distance  to  Hilo 1290      miles 

Coal  used  to  date no      tons 

Distance  run  on  one  ton  of  coal . .        23.7    miles 
Lat.  i8°.22/  N.,  Long.  I32°.5i'  W.     Distance  194 

miles. 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         29 

Sunday,  Oct.  23rd  Panama  to  Hilo. — At  last  we  are 
really  running  down  the  trades,  and  all  day  we  have 
been  tearing  through  the  water  at  a  great  rate,  sometimes 
making  as  much  as  fifteen  knots.  The  sea  is  quite  high, 
and  with  all  sails  set  and  drawing  the  ship  is  a  fine  sight 
as  the  foam  boils  past  and  the  pursuing  waves  seem  try- 
ing to  keep  up  with  us  but  not  succeeding.  Late  in  the 
afternoon  a  three  masted  schooner  climbed  up  over  the 
horizon  on  our  beam,  headed  southeast,  but  we  were 
going  two  feet  to  her  one,  and  she  was  still  hull  down 
when  we  left  her  far  astern.  This  was  the  first  vessel 
that  we  had  sighted  in  two  weeks,  and  the  last  one  hardly 
counted  for  all  that  was  visible  was  just  a  wisp  of 
smoke  on  the  horizon. 

Lat.  i8°.02;  N.,  Long.  I36°.22;  W.  Distance  200 
miles. 

Monday,  Oct.  24th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — This  is  A  loha  fs 
best  run  so  far,  and  she  seems  to  be  anxious  to  show 
what  she  can  do  as  she  draws  near  to  the  islands  where 
her  name  had  its  origin.  Last  night  we  were  in  wire- 
less communication  with  San  Francisco,  fifteen  hundred 
miles  away,  and  exchanged  a  number  of  messages. 

Lat.  i8°.54'  N.,  Long.  I4i°.i6'  W.  Distance  290 
miles. 

Tuesday,  Oct.  25th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — This  has  been 
another  day  of  glorious  sailing,  and  we  are  feeling  the 
wonderful  exhilaration  of  the  swift  motion  under  a 
sunny  sky  over  this  azure  sea,  with  every  wave 
crested  with  white  foam.  The  wind  has  hauled  around 
more  to  the  easterly  so  that  this  morning  the  star- 


30  Aloha  Around  the  World 

board  stun's'l  was  set  and  this  has  added  to  the  beauty 
of  the  ship's  appearance.  At  six  this  morning  the  hook 
on  the  spanker-boom  pendant  parted  and  things  were 
lively  for  a  few  minutes  until  the  boom  could  be  se- 
cured, but  Jake  was  on  deck  in  no  time  and  we  have 
been  sailing  all  day  with  a  jury  try-sail  instead  of  the 
spanker.  We  were  again  in  wireless  communication 
with  San  Francisco,  over  seventeen  hundred  miles  away. 

Lat.  I9°.3i'  N.,  Long.  i45°4o'  W.  Distance  255 
miles. 

Wednesday,  Oct.  26th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — In  the  last 
four  days  we  have  traveled  just  a  thousand  miles  which 
shows  what  Aloha  can  do  when  she  is  given  a  little 
encouragement.  If  all  goes  well,  this  means  Hilo  to- 
morrow afternoon.  At  tea  time  today  we  had  the 
unexpected  pleasure  of  a  visit  from  Miss  Arabella 
Plimpton  of  Northampton,  Mass.  She  was  quite  an 
old  dear  with  her  lavender  sun-shade,  white  lace  dress 
and  black  lace  shawl,  and  quaint  old  family  jewelry. 
She  had  known  everyone  in  their  younger  days,  and 
how  she  did  run  on,  and  the  things  that  she  told  us — 
especially  what  was  said  in  Northampton  when  Hetty 
Parsons  married  that  wild  young  Arthur  James,  and 
about  Pety  Alvord  and  his  way  with  the  girls,  to  say 
nothing  of  Sandy  Matheson's  business  projects,  which 
it  appears  had  included  the  manufacture  of  hair  dyes. 
A  little  later  another  visitor  suddenly  appeared.  This 
young  person,  person  is  the  proper  term,  was  of  a  very 
different  type  from  sweet  Miss  Arabella,  for  she  was 
dressed  in  a  really  most  extraordinary  manner  in  a 


The  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific         3* 

grass  skirt  and  gaily  colored  head  dress  with  cymbals 
in  her  hands ;  altogether  very  Polynesian  in  effect  and 
not  at  all  what  we  are  used  to  on  Aloha.  She  per- 
formed a  hula  with  much  spirit,  and  then  vanished  as 
suddenly  as  she  had  appeared.  It  is  too  bad  that  Fluff 
was  absent  during  both  these  interesting  visits. 

Lat.  i9°.54'  N.,  Long.  i50°.io'  W.  Distance  255 
miles. 

Thursday,  Oct.  27th.  Panama  to  Hilo. — It  is  six 
weeks  since  we  started  from  East  23rd  Street,  and  it 
it  was  just  four  weeks  ago  that  we  left  Panama.  The 
days  have  gone  so  swiftly  and  with  so  much  variety 
that  we  cannot  understand  how  anyone  can  speak  of 
time  at  sea  as  being  monotonous.  Early  this  morning 
there  was  a  very  heavy  shower  and  during  the  night  the 
wind  dropped  a  good  deal  and  is  now  dead  aft,  so  that 
we  are  not  making  more  than  eight  or  nine  knots  and 
shall  not  reach  Hilo  as  early  as  we  expected,  but  then  I 
don't  think  that  anyone  really  thought  that  we  would. 
At  eleven  p.m.  we  hove-to  off  the  Hilo  breakwater 
but  it  was  impossible  to  identify  the  leading  light  so  we 
stood  off  shore  all  night.  This  makes  the  time  of  pas- 
sage 28  days  n  hours,  and  the  total  distance  from 
Panama  to  Hilo  4844  miles,  of  which  2690  miles  were 
made  under  steam  in  352  hours. 

Lat.  200. 11'  N.,  Long.  I53°.36'  W.     Distance  205 
miles.     Distance  to  Hilo  80  miles. 


CHAPTER  II 

WHERE  ALOHA  GOT  HER  NAME 

Friday,  Oct.  28th.  Hilo. — We  appeared  on  deck  this 
morning  one  by  one  at  intervals,  beginning  with  Jake 
who  started  the  day  at  four  a.m.  It  was  a  gray  dawn 
that  greeted  us,  for  we  found  Aloha  jogging  along  under 
steam  over  a  gray  sea,  shrouded  in  gray  mist  and  with  a 
fine  rain  falling.  During  the  night  we  had  stood  off  so 
far  after  Jake  went  below  that  the  harbor  lights  were 
lost,  and  now  in  the  fog  it  was  a  difficult  matter  to  find 
the  entrance  again.  We  stopped  frequently  for  sound- 
ings and  it  was  not  until  after  lunch  that  we  were  able 
to  be  sure  of  our  position,  and  finally  at  about  four 
o'clock  the  anchor  was  let  go  inside  of  the  breakwater. 
The  shore  made  a  semi-circle  of  brightest  emerald 
green  about  us,  with  the  slopes  covered  with  cane  fields 
and  the  graceful  tops  of  the  palm  trees  standing  out 
clearly  against  the  sky-line  in  spite  of  the  mist.  We 
started  to  go  ashore,  but  the  pilot  came  aboard  and 
moved  us  to  a  better  berth  and  the  quarantine  officer 
took  some  time  in  inspecting  the  crew  so  that  it  was 
nearly  five  o'clock  before  we  finally  left  the  ship  in  the 
pilot's  launch.     The  only  boat-landing  is  up  a  little 

creek  situated  at  some  distance  from  the  town,  and 

32 


Onomea  Arch 

A  picturesque  promontory  with  a  natural  arch,  about  seven  miles  from  Hilo. 


KlLAUEA 

Looking  down  on  the  floor  of  the  largest  active  crater  in  the  world.    In  the  distance  is  the 
fire-pit,  a  third  of  a  mile  across,  filled  with  boiling  lava. 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name         33 

lined  with  Japanese  warehouses  and  blue  painted 
sampans  which  serve  as  habitations  for  their  owners' 
families.  It  was  almost  like  arriving  in  Japan,  for 
ninety  per  cent,  of  the  population  are  Japanese  and  the 
road  into  the  town  was  lined  with  Japanese  shops  and 
most  of  the  people  we  saw  were  of  the  same  nationality, 
many  of  them  in  native  costume.  The  post-office  was 
closed  but  we  picked  up  the  assistant  post-master  at 
his  house  and  he  accompanied  us  to  the  post-office  and 
brought  out  a  great  armful  of  mail  with  which  we  hurried 
back  to  the  yacht,  for  this  was  the  first  real  news  since 
leaving  New  York. 

Saturday,  Oct.  29th.  Hilo. — It  seems  to  rain  here  all 
the  time  with  occasional  flashes  of  sunshine,  in  fact  the 
yearly  rainfall  in  some  parts  of  the  island  is  said  to  be 
twenty-four  feet  but  this  doesn't  appear  to  interfere 
with  anyone's  comfort,  and  the  Japs  are  never  seen 
without  their  picturesque  looking  native  umbrellas. 

The  motor  was  waiting  at  the  landing  at  nine  o'clock 
and  we  paid  an  early  call  on  Miss  Ivy  Richardson  who 
has  a  most  attractive  house  on  the  edge  of  a  little  inlet 
with  a  delightful  setting  of  tropical  trees.  After  mak- 
ing a  few  purchases,  we  went  along  the  north  road 
toward  Kohala,  as  far  as  the  Onomea  Arch  about  seven 
miles  from  the  town.  Great  fields  of  sugar  cane  lay  on 
either  side  and  everywhere  were  the  flumes  in  which 
the  cane  is  carried  to  the  mills,  often  crossing  the 
gulches  on  lofty  trestle  work.  There  were  charming 
views  of  the  sea  and  the  road  crossed  many  pretty  little 
ravines,  often  with  tiny  houses  and  gardens  in  their 


34  Aloha  Around  the  World 

hollows.  After  an  early  lunch  we  started  for  the  great 
volcano  Kilauea.  At  first  the  road  leads  through  a  cane 
district  and  passes  the  important  Olaa  plantation,  but 
later  as  it  rises  higher  and  higher  above  sea  level  there 
are  many  miles  of  uncultivated  land,  groves  of  koa  trees, 
and  beautiful  tree-fern  forests.  At  about  three-thirty 
we  reached  the  Volcano  House,  thirty  miles  from  Hilo 
and  at  an  elevation  of  four  thousand  feet.  The  hotel 
is  at  the  edge  of  the  extinct  portion  of  the  crater,  which 
looks  like  a  vast  sea  of  mud  encircled  by  the  high  rim 
of  lava  rock,  with  little  puffs  of  steam  coming  out 
everywhere,  even  from  the  ground  above  close  to  the 
buildings.  The  observatory  is  in  charge  of  Professor 
T.  A.  Jaggar  who  has  been  here  for  nine  years  studying 
the  habits  of  the  volcano  and  takes  an  interest  in  its 
goings  on  that  is  almost  paternal.  He  accompanied 
us  to  the  active  part  of  the  crater,  to  which  one  goes  by 
a  motor  road  for  seven  miles  around  the  rim.  Two 
extinct  craters  are  passed,  the  first  Kilauea- Iki,  nearly 
eight  hundred  feet  deep  and  the  second  Keanakakoi, 
with  a  remarkably  level  floor.  The  active  fire  pit  is 
called  Halemaumau,  the  House  of  Everlasting  Fire, 
and  is  now  the  home  of  Pele  the  Volcano  Goddess,  who 
has  moved  in  succession  from  Oahu,  Maui,  and  Molokai 
to  take  up  her  abode  here.  The  pit  is  a  great  circular 
cup,  seventeen  hundred  feet  across,  and  the  floor  is  now 
three  hundred  feet  down,  though  less  than  four  weeks 
ago  it  was  only  eighty  feet  deep  and  last  March  the 
bowl  was  filled  to  the  brim  with  its  molten  contents. 
Now  as  one  peers  over  the  edge  and  wishes  for  some- 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        35 

thing  solid  to  hang  on  to,  while  the  gale  does  its  best  to 
sweep  the  little  handful  of  presumptuous  human  ants 
into  the  immensity  below,  one  sees  the  pools  of  liquid 
tire  far,  far  beneath  one's  feet.  They  expand  and  con- 
tract, send  up  spouts  of  red  hot  iniquity  high  into  the 
air,  and  emit  loud  whoofing  noises  as  bursts  of  pent-up 
vapor  escape  from  their  fiery  caverns.  A  place  of  fire 
and  brimstone,  of  mist  and  poisonous  gases,  full  of 
ominous  portent,  that  made  one  or  two  of  us  at  least, 
privately  resolve  to  lead  better  and  more  upright  lives 
in  the  future.  After  dinner,  in  spite  of  the  wind  and 
the  rain  we  made  our  way  again  to  the  edge  of  the  pit, 
whose  incandescent  depths  looked  still  more  splendidly 
forbidding  in  the  darkness.  The  path  was  not  an  easy 
one,  with  only  the  feeble  trickles  of  dim  light  from  two 
electric  torches  dribbling  over  the  jagged  masses  of 
flinty  lava.  The  wind  tore  at  our  flapping  garments, 
the  rain  beat  into  our  faces  and  soaked  our  shivering 
forms,  and  no  one  could  decide  which  was  more  terrible 
to  walk  on,  the  aa  or  the  pahoihoi.  All  the  elements 
were  our  opponents,  fire,  air,  earth,  and  water,  and  it 
seemed  no  night  to  provoke  them  needlessly,  yet  our 
indefatigable  leader,  with  a  beautiful  trust  in  the  part- 
ing advice  of  the  professor  to  seek  a  certain  seat  by  the 
pit  side  from  which  to  view  its  wonders,  urged  us  on, 
and  on,  and  on,  till  when  the  goal  was  at  last  reached, 
all  but  she  were  almost  inanimate.  Even  the  descent 
to  this  Avernus  had  not  been  easy  and  the  way  back 
seemed  unending,  and  when  we  finally  reached  the 
hotel  and  found  the  stay-at-home  member  of  our  party 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        37 

Miss  Ivy  Richardson's  house  at  four  p.m.  exactly  on 
schedule  time  and  found  her  and  her  brother  and  some 
other  members  of  the  family  ready  to  greet  us,  and  as 
we  ascended  the  steps  a  Hawaiian  orchestra  started  a 
mele  of  welcome.  It  was  difficult  to  leave  such  friendly 
people,  but  by  six-thirty  we  were  back  on  the  yacht 
and  again  under  way. 

Monday,  Oct.  31st.  Hilo  to  Honolulu. — The  sunrise 
over  Maui  was  very  wonderful  and  as  the  dawn  light- 
ened there  were  beautiful  views  of  this  most  picturesque 
island  which  has  many  high  peaks  separated  by  deep 
ravines.  A  little  later  Lanai  came  into  view,  low  lying 
and  reddish  in  color,  and  finally  we  skirted  the  rugged 
looking  shore  of  Molokai,  but  the  Leper  Colony  was 
far  away  out  of  sight,  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountain 
ranges.  As  we  approached  Honolulu  harbor,  Diamond 
Head  stood  out  boldly  in  the  bright  afternoon  sunlight, 
and  we  could  see  the  combers  breaking  on  the  beach 
at  Waikiki  in  long  white  lines.  An  old  friend  of 
Jake's,  Mr.  Halsey,  the  Commissioner  of  Immigration, 
boarded  us  while  we  were  still  outside  and  we  steamed 
slowly  in  to  a  splendid  berth  at  one  of  the  new  docks, 
which  placed  us  almost  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  A 
friend  of  Fluff's,  Mr.  Guy  Buttolph,  was  waiting  for  us 
on  the  dock,  and  flowers  and  messages  began  to  arrive 
promptly  but  the  males  of  the  party  made  a  quick 
departure  for  a  little  much  needed  attention  from  the 
barber,  while  the  ladies  went  for  a  drive.  After  dinner 
we  attended  an  interesting  performance  of  The  Yellow 
Jacket,  given  in  the  Memorial  Mission  building  by  the 


38  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Chinese  students,  who  were  gorgeously  costumed  and 
astonished  us  by  their  perfect  English  and  good  acting. 

Tuesday \  Nov.  1st.  Honolulu. — Visitors  poured  in  all 
the  morning  and  the  deckhouse  is  filled  with  lets  and 
other  gifts  of  fruit  and  flowers  from  old  and  new  friends, 
who  make  us  feel  that  they  consider  the  arrival  of  Aloha 
a  real  event  in  Honolulu  history.  After  obtaining  a 
permit  to  visit  the  Kalihi  detention  hospital  from  Doc- 
tor Trotter,  the  President  of  the  Board  of  Health,  I 
called  on  Bill  Judd  and  Ferdinand  Hedeman  who  have 
a  fine  set  of  offices  together  on  Beretania  Street,  which 
gets  its  name  from  the  old  native  pronunciation  of 
Britannia.  Mr.  Buttolph  gave  us  a  delightful  luncheon 
at  the  very  attractive  country  club,  where  we  had  our 
first  taste  of  poi  and  of  fish  cooked  in  ti  leaves,  delicacies 
with  which  we  were  later  to  become  very  well  ac- 
quainted. Luncheon  over,  we  drove  up  the  Nuuanu 
Valley  until  we  reached  the  Pali,  and  the  vista  from  its 
summit  revealed  itself  with  a  dramatic  suddenness  and 
a  poignancy  of  beauty  that  stirs  the  emotions  as  does 
no  other  view  that  any  of  us  have  seen.  On  returning 
to  the  yacht  we  received  a  visit  from  the  widow  of  Prince 
David,  Princess  Kowananakoa  whose  first  name 
Wahikoahuula  means  "born  in  a  mantle  of  royal 
feathers."  Afterwards  we  drove  to  Waikiki  to  bathe 
on  that  famous  beach  and  then  Bill  Judd  carried  me  off 
to  dine  at  his  very  pretty  new  house  on  Makiki  Heights 
and  we  had  a  long  talk  about  Juilly  and  medical  affairs 
in  New  York. 

Wednesday y  Nov.  2nd.  Honolulu. — Before  we  started 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        39 

on  our  drive  around  the  island  I  went  to  the 
Queen's  Hospital,  which  was  founded  over  seventy 
years  ago  and  is  beautifully  surrounded  by  lawns 
studded  with  palms  and  other  tropical  trees.  We  then 
crossed  to  the  North  shore  of  the  island  over  the  Pali, 
this  time  shrouded  in  mist,  and  descended  the  moun- 
tain on  the  other  side  in  long  loops  until  we  reached  sea- 
level  and  went  on  past  pineapple  plantations,  cane  and 
rice  fields,  taro  patches,  banana  walks,  and  some  of  the 
huge  fish  ponds  built  by  the  natives  a  century  or  two 
ago,  but  still  in  use.  After  a  stop  at  the  lovely  house  of 
Mrs.  James  Castle  with  its  large  indoor  garden  we 
passed  the  Mormon  Temple  at  Laie  and  lunched  on 
the  lanai  of  the  prettily  situated  Haliewa  Hotel.  The 
road  then  left  the  shore  line  and  proceeded  through 
enormous  pineapple  plantations,  the  largest  in  the 
world,  and  past  the  very  fine  and  extensive  Army  Post, 
Camp  Scofield.  The  distant  mountain  views  were 
most  beautiful,  and  we  made  good  time  over  the 
splendid  new  road,  reaching  Pearl  Harbor  in  season  for 
tea  at  Admiral  and  Mrs.  Simpson's.  On  the  way  back 
we  drove  through  Moanalua,  the  Damon  estate,  where 
some  of  the  ancient  grass  houses  are  still  preserved. 
The  event  of  the  day,  however,  was  the  luau  which 
the  Princess  Kowananakoa  gave  in  our  honor  at  her 
country  residence  near  Koko  Head.  On  arriving  we 
were  garlanded  with  lets  and  found  most  of  the  guests 
already  assembled,  among  whom  were  Ex-Governor 
George  Carter,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Adams,  and  others  in- 
cluding the  Princess's  daughter,  Kapiolani,  her  sister 


40  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Mrs.  Shingle,  Miss  Ena,  and  other  Hawaiian  guests 
and  ladies  in  waiting.  The  Princess  looked  very  stately 
in  her  black  holoku  with  a  precious  lei  of  the  royal  yel- 
low mamo  feathers  as  her  only  ornament.  The  table 
was  completely  covered  with  flowers  and  an  infinite 
variety  of  eatables,  either  in  small  dishes  or  bowls  or 
placed  on  broad  green  leaves.  Most  prominent  were 
the  pot  bowls  of  koa  wood,  very  graceful  in  form  and 
dark  with  age,  and  the  memory  lingers  pleasantly  over 
the  roast  pig  and  chicken,  the  baked  yam  and  the  ti- 
wrapped  mullet.  Then  there  were  mussels,  squid  and 
crabs,  dried  fish,  rock  salt  colored  red,  and  wedges  of  a 
sort  of  stiff  blanc-mange  faintly  reminiscent  of  coco- 
nut in  flavor,  but  for  most  of  us  malahinis  the  poi  was 
the  object  of  our  most  serious  consideration.  Still  it 
did  not  prove  so  difficult  to  coat  a  finger  with  its  pearl- 
gray,  sticky  substance  and  to  dip  it  into  the  pink, 
highly  salted  salmon  sauce  and  then  to  remove  the 
combination  delicately  writh  the  lips,  and  a  real  liking 
for  its  curious,  insipid,  slightly  sour  flavor  seemed  not 
unattainable,  though  Jake  was  the  only  one  who  actu- 
ally reached  the  very  bottom  of  his  bowl.  At  intervals 
the  family  finger-bowl  made  the  rounds  for  the  benefit 
of  those  whose  sporting  instincts  had  impelled  them  to 
eat  in  proper  native  fashion,  using  only  nature's  im- 
plements for  everything.  Then  came  the  hula.  A 
very  brown  and  stout  old  lady  squatting  on  a  fur  rug 
chanted  exotic  melodies  to  the  rhythm  of  a  constant 
pounding  on  a  large  calabash  or  the  shaking  of  gourds 
filled  with  rattling  seeds,  and  two  girls  arrayed  as  the 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        41 

post  cards  show  them  went  through  the  not  very 
graceful  motions  of  the  dance,  or  crouching  beside  the 
musician  tapped  their  hands  and  shoulders  in  unison 
with  snapping  rods  of  split  bamboo  and  intoned  meles  in 
praise  of  departed  chiefs.  It  was  all  very  solemn,  and 
gave  the  impression  of  a  ceremony,  rather  than  of  a 
dance,  which  is  what  it  really  is. 

Thursday,  Nov.  3rd.  Honolulu. — After  lunching  with 
Judd  and  Hedeman  at  the  University  Club,  I  accom- 
panied them  to  the  Kalihi  detention  hospital  for  lepers. 
In  spite  of  the  fact  that  some  of  the  patients  are  in  an 
advanced  state  of  the  disease,  as  we  entered  each 
pavilion  we  were  greeted  by  music  and  laughter,  and  the 
inmates  seemed  the  most  cheerful  and  lighthearted  I 
have  ever  seen  in  any  institution.  Major  Hazeltine 
demonstrated  the  improvement  brought  about  by  the 
use  of  the  chaulmoogra  oil  derivatives  isolated  by  Dr. 
Dean  and  his  associates,  which  it  appears  are  really 
curative.  One  of  the  most  satisfactory  results  of  the 
treatment  is  that  now  since  the  sufferers  realize  that 
their  condition  is  not  hopeless,  they  present  themselves 
voluntarily  for  treatment  instead  of  having  to  be  fer- 
reted out  and  brought  in  unwillingly  as  before.  On 
leaving  the  hospital  we  drove  to  the  top  of  Mount 
Tantalus,  from  which  there  is  a  view  second  only  to 
that  from  the  Pali,  and  then  joined  the  others  at  a 
reception  at  Dr.  C.  B.  Cooper's,  in  whose  charming 
house  were  assembled  many  of  the  notables  of  the 
island,  including  Governor  and  Mrs.  Farrington  and 
Judge  Dole,  the  first  president  of  the  Hawaiian  republic. 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        43 

fancy  could  invent.  Mrs.  Hall  lunched  with  us  on  the 
yacht,  and  accompanied  the  ladies  to  the  Y.  W.  C.  A. 
and  afterwards  we  had  one  of  our  pleasantest  experi- 
ences in  this  happy  island  when  we  visited  the  Arthur 
Browns  on  the  delightful  lanai  of  their  house  at 
Waikiki.  They  had  arranged  a  surfing  party  for  us, 
and  in  a  huge  twelve-paddle  outrigger  canoe  of  anci- 
ent manufacture,  we  rode  the  breakers,  with  Duke 
Kahanamoku  the  famous  swimmer,  at  the  steering 
paddle.  It  was  a  thrilling  experience  and  we  hated 
to  leave  this  charming  spot,  but  there  was  barely  time 
to  return  to  the  yacht  and  then  set  out  again  for  the 
dinner  which  the  Secretary  of  the  Island,  Mr.  Raymond 
C.  Brown,  was  giving  for  us  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Wall, 
beyond  Diamond  Head.  After  dinner  there  was  more 
hula  dancing  and  singing  on  the  pretty  terrace  by  the 
shore  covered  by  a  fine  widespreading  hau  tree. 

Saturday,  Nov.  5th.  Honolulu. — After  an  early 
lunch  with  Bill  Judd  at  the  Country  Club  I  drove  with 
him  through  a  beautiful  woodland  road  to  the  house  of 
one  of  his  patients  which  is  on  the  highest  point  on  this 
side  of  the  island  and  has  a  most  marvelous  view  around 
the  whole  horizon.  During  these  past  days  Aloha  has 
been  so  scrubbed  and  painted  and  polished  that  she  is 
a  perfect  thing  without  a  flaw,  and  dressed  in  her 
gayest  flags  she  made  a  wonderful  spectacle  for  the 
hundred  or  more  guests  who  came  for  tea  to  bid  us 
farewell.  The  party  was  delightful  but  was  over  far 
too  quickly,  and  before  we  realized  it  the  Aloha  song 
was  sounding  on  the  twilight  air.     It  was  a  very  mourn- 


44  Aloha  Around  the  World 

ful  group  that  stood  on  the  bridge  and  waved  last  greet- 
ings to  the  friendly  gathering  on  the  dock  that  sang 
Aloha  oe  and  waited  there  until  we  had  gotten  well 
under  way.  We  all  can  now  understand  Arthur  and 
Harriet's  enthusiasm  for  this  enchanting  place,  with  its 
kind  hospitable  people  and  feel  sure  that  in  our  future 
wanderings  around  the  world  we  shall  depart  from  no 
spot  with  so  much  regret  as  this.  It  was  with  a  real 
pang  that  we  saw  the  last  glimmer  of  the  Island's 
lights  vanish  on  the  horizon  at  about  nine  p.m.  and  had 
to  turn  unwilling  eyes  westward  to  our  next  goal,  four 
thousand  miles  away. 

Sunday,  Nov.  6th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — In  spite 
of  our  regret  at  leaving  the  happy  islands  the  charm  of 
the  life  at  sea  is  promptly  reasserting  itself  and  we  are 
settling  back  into  our  comfortable  shipboard  routine 
as  naturally  as  if  it  had  never  been  interrupted.  During 
the  night  we  found  the  trade  wind  again,  and  though 
the  breeze  was  only  a  gentle  one  steam  was  rung  off  at 
six-forty  a.m.  and  we  are  fairly  started  under  all  sail  on 
our  long  passage  to  Japan. 

Lat.  20°.i8'  N.,  Long.  i6o°.n'  W.  Distance  148 
miles. 

Monday,  Nov.  ?th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — A  long 
northeast  swell  is  causing  us  to  roll  a  good  deal  and  the 
motion  is  so  disturbing  to  the  spanker  that  it  has  had  to 
be  replaced  by  the  storm  trysail,  but  the  breeze  though 
light  is  holding  fairly  well  and  we  are  not  doing  badly. 

Lat.  20°.04'  N.,  Long.  i62°.54'  W.  Distance  169 
miles. 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        45 

Tuesday,  Nov.  8th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — This 
has  been  a  beautiful  day  with  smooth  sea  and  light 
breezes,  whose  serenity  has  been  marred  only  by  anti- 
typhoid inoculations;  another  instance  of  how  modern 
preventive  medicine  can  take  all  the  well  known  joy 
out  of  life. 

Lat.  I9°.34'  N.,  Long.  i65°.i8'  W.  Distance  180 
miles. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  gth.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — The 
event  of  the  day  was  a  squall  which  came  with  great 
suddenness  at  dinner  time,  requiring  quick  work  in 
shortening  sail  and  accompanied  by  a  torrential  down- 
pour of  rain.  It  was  soon  over,  but  the  seas  did  not 
subside,  becoming  higher  and  higher,  and  in  the  early 
morning  hours  a  great  wave  poured  over  the  poop  and 
carried  the  grating  from  under  the  feet  of  the  man  at 
the  wheel,  tearing  him  from  his  hold  on  the  spokes.  At 
the  same  time  I  was  rudely  snatched  from  pleasant 
dreams  of  Hawaiian  palms  and  beaches  to  see  a  solid 
column  of  Pacific  Ocean  cascading  down  my  ventilator, 
and  the  same  thing  only  more  so  was  happening  in 
Jake's  room.  Everything  at  our  end  of  the  ship  was 
afloat,  and  the  briny  flood  swished  sickeningly  to  and 
fro  over  the  floor  with  every  roll.  How  true  is  that 
famous  saying  of  La  Rouchefoucauld's,  "There  is  some- 
thing not  altogether  displeasing  in  the  misfortunes  of 
even  our  dearest  friends"  and  we  are  conscious  of  a 
certain  lack  of  conviction  in  the  expressions  of  sym- 
pathy from  some  of  our  companions  who  have  suffered 
similarly  earlier  in  the  voyage. 


46  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Lat.  I9°.n'  N.,  Long.  i67°.25'  W.  Distance  122 
miles. 

Thursday,  Nov.  10th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — The 
seas  are  continuing  high  and  irregular  so  that  all  day 
we  have  been  rolling  heavily  and  shipping  much  water. 
Rain  squalls  are  frequent  with  intervals  of  brilliant 
sunshine,  during  which  the  sea  and  sky  have  given  us 
magnificent  pictures.  The  wireless  antennae  have  been 
torn  from  their  fastenings  by  the  heaving  of  the  ship 
and  we  are  temporarily  voiceless,  but  this  damage  will 
soon  be  repaired.  The  coal  pile  on  deck  with  which 
we  started  from  Honolulu  has  now  subsided  completely 
down  the  bunker  shafts,  and  has  been  absorbed  by  the 
fireroom  and  shaft  alley  where  it  is  piled  high  in  every 
nook  and  cranny.  How  Mr.  Clifford  and  his  staff 
manage  to  get  about  over  these  all-pervasive  and 
obstructive  heaps  is  a  mystery. 

Lat.  i8°.57'  N.,  Long.  I70°.i4'  W.  Distance  167 
miles. 

Friday,  Nov.  nth.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — This 
is  Armistice  Day  and  in  the  afternoon  we  had  a  little 
ceremony  to  celebrate  the  occasion.  All  hands  were 
assembled  on  the  poop  deck  and  Jake  made  a  short 
address  commenting  on  the  significance  of  the  day  and 
on  the  burial  of  the  unknown  soldier  at  Arlington. 
The  Star  Spangled  Banner  was  sung,  the  colors  were 
half-masted,  and  the  lonely  Pacific  resounded  to  the 
report  of  a  salute  from  our  entire  broadside  consisting 
of  a  single  one  pounder. 

Lat.  i9°.o8'  N.,  Long.  I73°.27' W.  Distance  190 miles. 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        47 

Saturday,  Nov.  12th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — The 
moon  is  full  and  we  are  spending  entire  evenings  on 
deck  again  as  we  did  in  the  Atlantic.  The  sunsets, 
however,  lately  have  not  been  remarkable  and  fall  far 
short  of  the  splendid  displays  we  had  so  regularly  in  the 
Caribbean. 

Lat.  190. 1 1'  N.,  Long.  I76°.07'  W.  Distance  153 
miles. 

Sunday,  Nov.  13th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — A 
beautiful  day,  but  it  is  getting  hot  again  though  not 
uncomfortably  so,  and  it  is  hard  to  realize  that  it  is  only 
six  weeks  to  Christmas. 

Lat.  i8°.32'  N.,  Long.  I79°.05'  W.  Distance  175 
miles. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  15th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — "East 
is  East  and  West  is  West  and  never  the  twain  shall 
meet."  When  he  wrote  that,  Kipling  must  have  for- 
gotten about  the  good  old  180th  meridian,  for  we  have 
just  crossed  the  line  where  the  East  and  West  do  meet, 
and  the  result  of  the  encounter  is  that  we  are  minus  a 
whole  beautiful  day  just  when  we  can  least  spare  it. 
Last  night  when  we  said  good-night  to  the  moon  it  was 
Sunday  evening  and  today  when  we  awoke  it  had  sud- 
denly become  Tuesday  morning.  We  can  think  of 
plenty  of  days  that  never  would  be  missed  if  they 
quietly  evaporated  like  that,  but  just  now  when  every 
one  is  so  especially  worth  while,  to  lose  it  in  this  un- 
ceremonious way  without  even  a  chance  to  show  what 
we  could  do  with  it  seems  most  unfair. 

Lat.  i8°.I2'  N.,  Long.  I78°.37' E.    Distance  135 miles. 


48  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Wednesday,  Nov.  16th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — An- 
other day  of  fine  weather  but  light  breezes.  A  ship 
about  nine  hundred  miles  to  the  northwest  tells  us  that 
she  is  hove-to  in  a  gale,  with  heavy  seas,  but  here  aside 
from  a  heavy  swell  this  seems  the  most  tranquil  of 
sunlit  oceans.  Fluff  did  not  get  any  paint  on  her  dress 
today. 

Lat.  i8°.i7'  N.,  Long.  i75°-57'  E.  Distance  154 
miles. 

Thursday,  Nov.  17th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — To 
make  up  for  his  rather  tame  disappearances  lately  the 
sun  made  his  exit  tonight  in  a  splendor  of  color  that  we 
shall  long  remember.  All  day  there  have  been  un- 
usually heavy  and  long  northwest  swells  so  that  the 
ocean  seemed  like  an  undulating  plain  with  long  slopes 
and  valleys.  We  have  been  getting  the  news  of  the 
opening  sessions  of  the  Armament  Conference  in 
Washington  and  feel  delighted  at  the  promising  manner 
in  which  the  discussions  are  beginning. 

Lat.  i8°.I9'  N.,  Long.  i73°-3i'  E.  Distance  145 
miles. 

Friday,  Nov.  18th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — We 
are  realizing  that  before  long  we  shall  be  obliged  to 
leave  this  dolce  far  niente  existence  and  take  up  the  re- 
sponsibilities of  sight-seeing  so  we  are  deep  in  guide 
books,  histories  of  Japan,  schedules,  and  discussions 
of  what  we  ought  to  see. 

Lat.  i8°.02'  N.,  Long.  I70°.25'  E.  Distance  177 
miles. 

Saturday,    Nov.    igth.    Honolulu    to    Yokohama. — 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        49 

There  is  more  sea  again  today  and  at  intervals  the  clouds 
seem  about  to  close  in  on  us,  but  so  far  the  weather  re- 
mains good  and  the  run  is  the  best  we  have  made  in 
many  days.  At  noon  we  were  fifty  miles  south  of  Wake 
Island.  The  course  has  been  changed  to  W.  by  N.  J/£ 
N.  and  we  are  now  heading  straight  for  Marcus  Island 
and  Yokohama  and  thinking  of  the  possibilities  of 
reaching  the  latter  in  eight  or  nine  days. 

Lat.  i8°.ia/  N.,  Long.  i66°.52'  E.  Distance  205 
miles. 

Sunday,  Nov.  20th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — The 
day  is  fine  but  hot  and  a  heavy  swell  is  running.  The 
men  are  all  in  white  and  everything  has  a  mid-summer 
air,  but  next  Thursday  is  Thanksgiving  and  our  ser- 
vice today  was  made  especially  appropriate  for  that 
time. 

Lat.  I9°.39'  N.,  Long.  i63°43'  E.  Distance  195 
miles. 

Monday,  Nov.  21st.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — There 
were  squalls  during  the  night  and  the  wind  and  sea 
continue  as  before,  that  is,  moderate,  but  we  are  mak- 
ing very  satisfactory  runs  and  it  is  delightful  sailing 
weather. 

Lat.  20°45'  N.,  Long.  i6o°.34'  E.  Distance  193 
miles. 

Tuesday,  Nov.  22nd.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — We 
are  much  impressed  by  the  loneliness  of  this  ocean,  not 
a  ship  have  we  sighted  since  leaving  Honolulu,  not  a 
porpoise,  and  very  rarely  even  a  bird.  Through  hope 
too  long  deferred  the  fishermen  have  become  languid 


50  Aloha  Around  the  World 

in  their  interest,  and  sometimes  do  not  even  go  through 
the  form  of  throwing  a  line  over  the  taffrail.  Only  the 
gay  little  flying  fish  still  keep  us  company,  and  often 
flash  over  the  waves  like  arrows  of  silver  as  the  sunlight 
sjbrikes  them  in  full  flight. 

Lat.  2i°4i/  N.,  Long.  I57°.30/  E.  Distance  182 
miles. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  23rd.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — As 
if  to  contradict  my  words  of  yesterday,  today  a  whale 
appeared,  but  only  for  a  moment  or  two  and  demon- 
strating his  presence  by  his  spout  alone,  like  the  one  in 
Oliver  Herford's  poem : 

"This  is  the  Whale;  he  seems  to  be 
A  Spout  of  Water  in  the  Sea." 

It  was  very  hot,  eighty-six  degrees;  we  all  felt  limp 
and  even  the  wind  drooped  and  what  there  was  of  it 
still  remained  dead  astern,  so  after  lunch  the  engines 
were  started  and  now  we  are  going  on  briskly  at  eight 
to  nine  knots  under  one  boiler  after  a  continuous  run  of 
twenty-six  hundred  and  ninety  miles  under  sail.  We 
have  passed  Marcus  Island  and  should  reach  Yokohama 
in  five  or  six  days  more. 

Lat.  23°.03'  N.,  Long.  i55°.io/  E.  Distance  150 
miles. 

Thursday,  Nov.  24th.  Thanksgiving  Day.  Honolulu 
to  Yokohama. — The  day  started  brightly  with  sunshine 
in  the  heavens  and  the  ladies  on  deck  in  time  to  see  the 
daily  dozen,  and  make  critical  remarks  about  them. 
Soon,  however,  the  clouds  came  down  and  the  sea  came 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        51 

up  and  Aloha  began  executing  a  hula,  much  more 
lively  than  any  we  saw  on  shore.  There  was  also  a 
fine  northeast  breeze  that  drove  us  through  the  water 
all  day  at  ten  to  twelve  knots.  Steam  was  shut  off  at 
eight-forty  A.  M.  and  in  two  watches  we  made  ninety- 
six  miles  under  reduced  sail.  It  was  far  too  rough  to 
carry  out  all  our  Thanksgiving  plans  but  the  wireless 
was  in  fine  working  order  and  while  we  were  consuming 
our  turkey  and  mince  pie  some  interesting  messages 
were  received.     Among  others  were  these : 

Miss  F.  S.  Sullivan, 

Aux.  Yacht  Aloha,  At  Sea,  Radio  Honolulu. 
Seat  on  pit  rim  has  been  cushioned.     Hope  you  will  return 
with  party.  Jaggar. 

Miss  F.  S.  Sullivan, 

Aux.  Yacht  Aloha,  At  Sea,  Radio  New  York. 
C£sar  five  puppies,  doing  well.     Wire  instructions. 

Leonard. 

A.  P.  Alvord, 

Aux.  Yacht  Aloha,  At  Sea,  Radio  Honolulu. 
Appointment  offered  you  excise  commissioner. 
Life  Position,  wire  acceptance.  Brown. 

K.  Vogel, 

Yacht  Aloha,  Radio  Honolulu. 
Regret    museum    authorities    request    return    necklace 
ornament.     Gladly  substitute  lump  of  Aa. 

Gregory. 

Lat.  24°.5i'  N.,   Long.   I5i°.54'  E.     Distance  215 
miles. 

Friday,   Nov.   25th.    Honolulu   to    Yokohama. — The 


52  Aloha  Around  the  World 

run  was  a  fine  one,  but  though  the  wind  continued  of 
good  force  it  gradually  edged  around  to  the  northwest 
so  as  to  head  us  off  and  at  twelve  forty-five  p.m.  we  had 
to  go  back  to  steam,  at  first  under  one  boiler  but  later 
both  were  put  in  commission.  On  entering  the  saloon 
for  dinner,  Fluff  had  the  unexpected  pleasure  of  finding 
the  devoted  Cesar  waiting  on  the  hearth  rug  to  greet 
her  and  to  present  his  little  ones  for  her  approval.  The 
faithful  animal's  demonstrations  of  joy  at  seeing  his 
mistress  and  his  pride  in  his  offspring  were  enough  to 
bring  a  tear  to  the  driest  eye. 

Lat.  27°43'  N.,  Long.  I48°.55'  E.  Distance  240 
miles. 

Saturday,  Nov.  26th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — The 
day  is  rough  and  forbidding  with  heavy  wind  and  sea 
so  that  we  are  going  but  slowly,  even  with  both  boilers 
in  action.  It  is  really  cold  and  bleak  and  we  have 
decided  we  would  not  care  to  be  arctic  explorers. 

Lat.  28°.59'  N.,  Long.  i46°.oa/  E.  Distance  165 
miles. 

Sunday,  Nov.  27th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — The 
skies  have  cleared  again,  but  it  is  still  very  rough  and 
much  colder,  so  that  we  are  shedding  our  tropical  garb 
for  garments  made  of  sterner  stuff,  and  even  Pete  and  I 
are  beginning  to  wear  caps.  After  dinner  we  gathered 
about  the  open  fire  and  were  very  glad  to  toast  our 
toes.  We  are  still  under  full  steam,  with  some  assist- 
ance from  the  fore  and  aft  sails. 

Lat.  3i°.o6'  N.,  Long.  I43°.5i'  E.  Distance  173 
miles. 


Where  Aloha  Got  Her  Name        53 

Monday,  Nov.  28th.  Honolulu  to  Yokohama. — To- 
day we  saw  our  first  vessel  since  leaving  Honolulu  and 
it  may  be  imagined  with  what  interest  we  looked  at  it. 
It  was  a  small  sampan,  that  bobbed  about  in  most  un- 
comfortable looking  fashion,  and  later  several  others 
appeared.  A  little  after  three  o'clock,  two  of  the  out- 
lying islands  poked  their  heads  over  the  horizon,  and 
we  are  wondering  whether  the  capricious  Fuji  which 
should  be  visible  far  at  sea  will  also  favor  us.  At  noon 
we  passed  directly  over  a  rock,  marked  as  doubtful  on 
the  charts  with  one  and  three  quarters  fathoms  of  water 
over  it,  and  the  doubt  as  to  the  existence  of  this  peril 
to  navigation  seemed  to  be  confirmed.  At  six-thirty 
we  reached  the  entrance  to  Yeddo  Bay,  3893  miles  from 
Honolulu,  having  covered  the  distance  in  twenty-two 
days  and  five  hours,  of  which  917  miles  were  made 
under  steam  in  no  hours.  At  eleven-forty  p.m.  we 
anchored  off  the  Yokohama  breakwater. 


CHAPTER  III 

TEMPLES  AND  SHRINES  IN  DAI  NIPPON 

Tuesday,  Nov.  2gih.  Yokohama. — The  early  morning 
air  was  very  keen  and  the  queerly  shaped  sails  of  the 
fishing  boats  starting  down  the  harbor  seemed  unreal  in 
the  pearly  haze.  Big  sampans  with  ten  or  a  dozen 
half -naked  fishermen  pushing  at  their  sweeps  went  by, 
and  as  it  became  lighter  we  found  we  were  surrounded 
by  ships  of  many  nationalities.  At  eight  o'clock  the 
port  doctor  with  numerous  assistants  in  heavy  military 
great  coats  gave  us  pratique  and  the  pilot  took  the 
ship  to  a  mooring  nearer  the  shore.,  opposite  the  Grand 
Hotel.  Soon  Mr.  Frazar,  Mr.  Keene,  Mr.  Hayashi, 
and  Prof.  Miyaki  came  to  welcome  us  to  Japan  and  told 
us  of  the  anxiety  the  recent  bad  weather  had  caused  on 
our  account.  Mr.  Hayashi  had  already  planned  the 
day  for  us,  and  before  lunch  we  started  in  his  car  and 
another  for  Kamakura.  For  those  of  us  to  whom 
Japan  was  new  it  was  a  day  of  wonderful  impressions. 
The  rickshaw  men  in  their  tightfitting  trousers  and  big 
straw  hats,  the  blue  tunics  of  the  coolies  with  their 
white  decorations  of  ideographs,  the  women  shuffling 
along  on  their  wooden  clogs,  the  tiny  shops  and  crowded 
narrow  streets,  the  quantities  of  children  in  the  gayest 
colors — a  thousand  totally  unaccustomed  sights  kept 

54 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    55 

us  in  a  continual  state  of  amazement  and  delight. 
When  the  city  was  left  behind  the  clusters  of  neat 
little  brown-thatched  houses  beside  the  terraced  paddy 
fields  seemed  like  charming  toy  villages  nestling  at  the 
foot  of  the  maple  covered  hillsides,  that  still  showed 
splashes  of  color  here  and  there.  The  first  stop  was  at 
the  temple  of  Hachiman,  dedicated  to  the  Japanese  God 
of  War,  with  its  splendid  approach  and  flocks  of  pigeons 
like  those  of  St.  Mark's,  waiting  for  gifts  of  grain  from 
the  well  disposed.  Here  we  saw  a  collection  of  ancient 
arms  and  armor,  and  other  relics  of  the  shoguns, 
watched  some  of  the  pious  do  obeisance  before  the 
shrine,  and  then  went  on  to  the  Kaihin  Hotel  for  lunch. 
The  chief  attraction  of  Kamakura  is  the  famous  Dai- 
butsu,  forty-nine  feet  high,  and  cast  nearly  seven  hun- 
dred years  ago.  It  is  wonderfully  majestic  and  im- 
pressive in  its  beautiful  setting  of  cryptomerias,  though 
the  effect  is  somewhat  marred  by  the  shabby  refresh- 
ment stands  that  surround  it.  Another  short  drive 
took  us  to  Enoshima,  where  we  had  a  splendid  view  of 
Fuji  against  the  sunset  sky,  and  after  lingering  a  little 
among  the  fascinating  mother-of-pearl  shops,  hurried 
back  to  Yokohama  in  order  to  arrive  at  Mr.  Keene's 
in  time  for  dinner,  and  to  see  his  priceless  collection  of 
art  objects. 

Wednesday,  Nov.  30th.  Yokohama. — Fluff  began  to 
see  Japan  all  by  herself  by  going  off  on  an  all-day  visit 
to  Miss  Finch,  who  lives  in  Yokosuka  where  there  is  a 
great  naval  station.  She  has  become  a  Japanese 
citizen,  lives  in  Japanese  fashion,  and  has  taken  the 


56  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Japanese  name  of  Mitsuyo  Hoshida,  which  means 
Starry  Fields.  For  years  she  has  devoted  herself  in 
the  most  self-sacrificing  way  to  mission  work  among 
the  officers  and  men  stationed  there,  and  has  had  great 
success  because  by  merging  herself  so  completely  into 
Japanese  life  she  has  won  the  confidence  of  the  natives 
to  an  unusual  degree.  Peter,  William,  and  I  met  a 
delightful  compatriot  of  William's  in  Mr.  Tait,  manager 
of  the  Chartered  Bank  of  India  who  immediately  invited 
us  to  dinner  for  tonight  and  to  go  afterwards  to  the  St. 
Andrew's  Ball,  one  of  the  annual  social  events  of 
Yokohama.  The  Benten  Dori  is  a  fascinating  street 
full  of  tempting  little  shops,  and  we  spent  much  time 
there  as  well  as  in  Mr.  Namura's  Samurai  Shokai  which 
is  a  veritable  museum  of  art  objects,  old  and  new.  We 
all  met  for  lunch  at  the  Grand  Hotel  and  then  I  poked 
off  by  myself  into  the  native  quarter,  around  the  Moto 
Machi  section  and  was  immensely  entertained  by  the 
street  life.  The  others  were  invited  to  dine  at  Mr. 
Frazar's,  but  William  and  I  went  to  Mr.  Tait's,  he 
gorgeously  arrayed  in  kilts  and  completely  equipped 
in  every  detail,  from  skene  dhu  to  sporran  and  cairn 
gorm.  On  the  road  up  the  hill  to  Mr.  Tait's  house  on 
The  Bluff  we  saw  many  of  the  residences  of  the  foreign 
colony,  and  at  the  St.  Andrew's  Ball  in  the  Gaiety 
Theater,  all  of  Yokohama's  bravest  and  fairest  were 
assembled,  including  quite  a  sprinkling  from  Tokyo, 
and  a  few  Japanese.  Most  of  the  real  Scotties  were  in 
kilts,  and  with  their  ladies  they  performed  some  very 
spirited  reels,  quadrilles  and  other  evolutions  beyond 


Temples  and  Shrines  of  Dai  Nippon    57 

the  power  of  a  Sassenach  to  describe.  The  others  had 
joined  us  there  and  we  decided  to  depart  before  the  big 
moment  of  the  evening,  the  arrival  of  the  haggis,  but 
the  indefatigable  William  could  not  be  persuaded  to 
leave  and  finally  reached  the  yacht  much  later  on  after 
having  with  some  difficulty  succeeded  in  discovering  a 
boatman  to  ferry  him  out. 

Thursday,  Dec.  ist.  Yokohama. — We  all  had  various 
errands  ashore  and  later  Captain  and  Mrs.  Semple  and 
Mr.  Welzer,  Presbyterian  missionary  to  the  students  at 
Tokyo  came  aboard.  The  baggage  had  already  been 
sent  on  to  Tokyo  and  we  followed  it  on  the  twelve-fifteen 
train,  arriving  in  time  for  luncheon  at  the  Imperial 
Hotel,  where  Mr.  Hayashi,  looking  very  well  in  his 
Japanese  clothes,  gave  us  a  warm  welcome.  The  ladies 
spent  the  afternoon  inspecting  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  work, 
and  the  rest  of  us  drove  in  rickshaws  about  the  city 
under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Mizusaki.  On  the  Ginza 
and  in  many  other  parts  of  the  city  are  well  constructed 
modern  buildings  often  six  to  eight  stories  high,  and 
numerous  large  steel-frame  construction  office  buildings 
are  in  course  of  erection.  From  the  roof  of  the  tall 
Mitzukoshi  department  store  which  is  thoroughly 
modern  in  all  respects,  we  had  a  splendid  view  of  the 
city,  but  it  was  really  much  more  interesting  when  we 
returned  through  the  side  streets  and  saw  the  more 
typically  Japanese  side  of  the  city.  Children  swarmed 
everywhere,  always  apparently  happy  and  playful,  but 
never  noisy.  Like  the  women  they  were  always  in 
Japanese  dress,  but  men  in  foreign  clothes  were  numer- 


58  Aloha  Around  the  World 

ous,  many  of  them  affecting  a  sort  of  compromise  by 
wearing  a  foreign  hat  or  cap  and  a  long  overcoat  with  a 
cape  over  Japanese  inner  garments.     Harold  Egleston 
joined  us  at  dinner,  after  which  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hayashi 
took  us  to  the  Ichimuroza  Theater  where  we  found  Mr. 
Kabayama  waiting.     The  entertainment  was  a  dress 
rehearsal  of  two  dances  performed  by  girls  from  the 
famous  Nishikama  School  of  dancing  in  Nagoya.     Both 
auditorium  and  stage  were  very  large  and  most  of  the 
spectators  sat  on  the  floor,  but  at  the  rear  was  a  row 
of  boxes  with  benches  and  we  found  places  in  these. 
The  so-called  dances  were  really  rather  elaborate  panto- 
mimes to  music,  and  all  the  performers  including  the 
musicians   were   girls,    very   attractive   no   doubt   to 
Japanese  eyes  but  not  notably  so  to  those  of  the 
foreigner.     The    costumes    were    very    splendid    and 
costly,  and  minor  changes  in  apparel  or  in  the  arrange- 
ment of  properties  were  effected  with  the  aid  of  masked, 
black-robed  figures,  that  strolled  about  at  will  and  are 
conventionally   assumed   to   be   invisible.     The   first 
dance  was  a  sort  of  allegory  in  which  a  knight   is 
tempted  by  a  fiend  in  the  guise  of  a  beautiful  woman, 
but  because  his  heart  is  pure  the  young  man  recognizes 
the  deceit  and  the  evil  spirit  is  then  obliged  to  appear 
in  his  true  form  and  is  promptly  slain.     The  other 
performance  had  a  somewhat  less  edifying  moral,  for  it 
had  to  do  with  a  hermit  of  exemplary  character,  who 
tumbled  from  heaven  into  the  midst  of  a  lot  of  merry- 
making laundresses,  and  found  their  society  so  agree- 
able that  he  preferred  remaining  with  them  to  returning 


a 
3 
o 

pq 

w 

0" 

u 

< 

Q 

W 

a 


o  ^ 


5    rt 

2-  £ 


£^ 


TO       r— 

8  » 


.si 

as 

.■2  s 

•s -a 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    59 

on  high.  The  dancers  were  all  famous  performers  and 
many  local  geishas  were  present  to  get  points  from  the 
work  of  these  especially  accomplished  ladies,  but  it 
must  be  admitted  that  to  the  observer  whose  taste  in 
such  matters  has  been  formed  on  Broadway  under  the 
tutelage  of  Florenz  Ziegfeld  and  Ned  Wayburn,  the 
chief  interest  of  the  exhibition  lay  in  its  novelty. 

Friday,  Dec.  2nd.  Tokyo. — Today  we  had  our  first 
impressions  of  a  Japanese  interior  of  the  better  class,  for 
we  lunched  at  the  residence  of  Baron  Goto,  the  reform 
Mayor  of  Tokyo,  and  it  was  a  very  pleasant  experience. 
At  the  entrance  we  were  met  by  a  crowd  of  polite 
attendants  to  take  charge  of  coats  and  wraps,  and 
exchanged  our  shoes  for  slippers  before  treading  on  the 
spotless  mattings.  The  house  was  large  and  most 
attractive,  with  numerous  spacious  apartments  over- 
looking the  garden,  and  many  marvelous  art  objects 
and  beautiful  rugs.  The  luncheon  was  a  perfect  meal 
in  foreign  style,  and  Baron  Goto  was  a  polished  and 
delightful  host.  The  guests  who  were  all  most  cordial 
included  Baron  Goto's  son-in-law,  Mr.  Tsurima,  his 
daughter-in-law,  Mrs.  Haruko  Goto,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Tamon  Maeda  and  the  Baron's  niece,  Miss  Waki 
Tominaga,  and  as  several  of  them  had  been  in  the 
United  States  the  conversation  was  lively  and 
interesting. 

We  had  to  hurry  to  reach  Ueno  station  in  time  for  the 
one-forty  train  for  Nikko.  The  car  was  arranged  with 
seats  along  the  sides  like  a  trolley  car,  and  there  were 
not  many  other  passengers,  but  as  we  reached  higher 


60  Aloha  Around  the  World 

altitudes  it  became  uncomfortably  cold.  The  country 
as  everywhere  in  Japan  was  most  picturesque,  with 
carefully  tilled  fields  and  pretty  toy-like  villages  in 
constant  succession.  Later  when  the  mountains  drew 
nearer  there  were  splendid  views  including  a  fleeting 
glimpse  of  Fuji,  and  a  golden  sunset.  On  the  train  was 
Professor  E.  E.  Speight,  Professor  of  English  Literature 
in  several  Japanese  universities,  who  is  a  long  time 
resident  of  Japan,  and  gave  us  many  new  and  interesting 
sidelights  on  Japanese  life  and  character.  At  one 
station  we  got  little  individual  tea  pots  full  of  hot  tea 
and  with  a  tiny  cup,  all  for  four  cents  including  the  pot. 
It  was  quite  dark  when  we  finally  reached  Nikko  but 
the  Kanaya  Hotel  was  ablaze  with  lights,  for  electricity 
is  produced  very  cheaply  here  by  water  power.  We 
found  the  hotel  most  cheerful  and  comfortable  with 
freshly  washed  kimonos  laid  out  on  the  beds  and  slippers 
ready  beside  them,  as  is  the  universal  custom. 

Saturday,  Dec.jrd.  Nikko. — Nikko,  whose  name  means 
"Sunny  Splendor,"  deserves  all  the  enthusiastic  things 
that  have  been  said  and  written  about  it  by  Japanese 
and  foreigners  during  the  thousand  years  since  it  be- 
came a  center  of  shrines  and  temples  and  resort  for 
pilgrims.  Passing  the  famous  red  lacquer  bridge,  that 
only  the  Emperor  may  cross,  one  ascends  by  a  gently 
rising  pathway  shadowed  by  tall  cryptomerias,  to  the 
great  park  which  forms  the  beautiful  setting  for  the 
triumphs  of  the  old  temple  builders'  art  that  have  been 
erected  to  beautify  the  last  resting  places  of  the  two 
great  Shoguns  that  are  buried  here.     Up  the  wide 


£  S> 


'Si      &> 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    61 

main  avenue  past  the  Hall  of  the  Three  Buddhas 
with  its  great  bronze  bell  whose  deep  notes  are  heard 
all  over  Nikko  every  hour,  one  comes  to  the  high 
granite  torii  marking  the  entrance  to  the  group  of 
buildings  that  compose  the  memorial  to  Ieyasu.  Con- 
stantly ascending  by  pathways  or  steps  one  mounts 
terrace  after  terrace  with  stone  lanterns  and  bronzes, 
treasure  houses  and  shrines,  gateways  and  temples, 
till  finally  the  mausoleum  itself  is  reached  after  a  long 
climb  up  two  hundred  steps  to  a  secluded  platform, 
where  in  stately  surroundings  of  silence  and  forest  is 
the  unpretentious  tomb  of  the  great  Shogun,  its  simpli- 
city in  striking  contrast  to  the  magnificence  that  has 
come  before. 

It  is  all  lovely  and  beautiful  beyond  description — the 
vermilion  and  gold  and  blue  of  the  fantastically  shaped 
temples  against  the  background  of  deepest  green;  the 
richness  of  the  carving,  sometimes  grotesque  as  in  the 
figures  of  the  nio  that  guard  the  temple  gates,  some- 
times humorous  as  in  the  famous  three  discreet  monkeys 
or  the  sleeping  cat — but  always  interesting  and  with 
its  beauty  so  much  enhanced  by  the  hills  and  trees  that 
surround  it  all.  Near  the  great  torii  is  another  road 
that  leads  to  the  mausoleum  of  Iemitsu,  no  less  interest- 
ing though  with  fewer  buildings  along  the  pathway  to  it. 
From  this  enchanting  spot  we  turned  reluctantly  to  the 
motors  that  carried  us  quickly  six  miles  up  the  valley  to 
a  little  settlement  called  Umagaeshi  beyond  which 
automobiles  do  not  go,  and  all  walked  on  a  mile  or  two 
further  along  the  stream  until  it  was  time  for  Arthur, 


62  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Harriet,  and  Fluff  to  turn  back  in  order  to  return  to 
Tokyo.  Peter,  William,  and  I  kept  on  up  the  fine 
mountain  road  and  reached  Lake  Chuzenji  at  a  little 
after  one.  We  ate  the  excellent  lunch  we  had  brought 
with  us,  in  the  empty  halls  of  the  Chuzenji  Hotel  which 
is  deserted  in  winter  time,  and  after  warming  up  a  little 
over  the  hibachi  started  back,  stopping  to  see  the  fine 
Kegon  waterfall  which  is  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet 
high  and  forms  the  outlet  of  the  lake.  The  walk  was 
just  as  interesting  coming  down  as  going  up  and  we 
noted  two  examples  of  Japanese  progressiveness  in  the 
extensive  reforestation  being  carried  out  on  all  the 
mountain  slopes  and  in  the  splendid  hydraulic  power 
plant  being  constructed  in  the  valley.  When  not  far 
from  Umagaeshi,  to  our  great  joy  a  troop  of  thirty  or 
forty  monkeys  appeared  climbing  about  on  the  cliffs 
across  the  ravine  and  taking  drinks  from  the  brook  that 
ran  down  the  rocky  wall.  We  had  heard  of  these  but 
doubted  their  existence  and  it  was  certainly  a  chilly 
habitat  for  monkeys  for  there  was  ice  on  all  the  wayside 
pools.  During  dinner  we  had  another  unusual  experi- 
ence— an  earthquake  shock,  lasting  only  a  few  seconds 
but  distinctly  perceptible. 

Sunday ,  Dec.  4th.  Nikko. — The  "King  of  Pawn- 
brokers" who  has  an  elaborate  curio  store  here  lured  us 
into  his  establishment  and  we  spent  most  of  the  morning 
going  over  his  wonderful  collection  of  brocades,  priest's 
robes,  and  prints.  There  was  time  before  lunch  for 
another  brief  visit  to  the  temples  which  on  a  second 
view  seemed  even  more  lovely  in  their  majestic  setting. 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    63 

The  motor  trip  through  the  wonderful  avenue  of  crypto- 
merias  set  out  by  ancient  daimios  in  lieu  of  the  tribute 
they  were  too  poor  to  pay,  was  very  fine  and  the  brown- 
thatched  houses  looked  more  adorable  than  ever  under 
the  shade  of  these  imposing  trees.  The  avenue  extends 
unbroken  for  twenty-five  miles  but  at  Imaichi  we 
changed  to  the  train  and  were  back  at  Ueno  station  by 
half -past  seven.  Harold  Egleston  took  us  to  the 
Tokyo  Club  for  a  late  dinner  and  there  we  made  the 
acquaintance  of  Mr.  Burch,  First  Secretary  of  the 
British  Embassy,  and  Count  de  Salis,  the  Third  Secre- 
tary. Arthur  and  Harriet  had  been  to  Dr.  Cosuaki's 
church  and  the  Tokyo  Union  Church  and,  after  lunch, 
went  with  Professor  Mizusaki  to  the  Imperial  Museum 
and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  and  then  dined  at  the  American 
Embassy. 

Monday,  Dec.  $th.  Tokyo. — Peter,  William,  and  I 
went  with  Nakano  to  the  new  Shinto  temple  erected 
in  a  large  park  which  used  to  be  a  military  parade 
ground.  It  is  a  long  walk  from  the  entrance  before  one 
reaches  the  temple,  and  the  broad  pathway  winds 
through  groves  of  thousands  of  trees  recently  set  out 
and  each  the  gift  of  some  individual  donor,  many 
having  been  sent  from  the  remotest  corners  of  Japan. 
The  temple  is  beautiful  in  its  simplicity,  and  its  con- 
struction and  that  of  the  adjoining  cloisters  proves 
what  masters  the  Japanese  are  in  the  use  of  wood  as  a 
building  material.  The  roof,  which  is  many  inches 
thick,  is  very  appropriately  made  of  the  bark  of  the 
trees  used  in  constructing  the  body  of  the  building. 


64  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Some  distance  away  is  the  well  built  stone  treasure 
house  in  which  are  stored  relics  of  the  late  Emperor 
Mutsuhito.  On  the  way  back  to  the  central  part  of  the 
city  we  stopped  at  the  house  of  the  late  General  Nogi, 
the  hero  of  Port  Arthur.  This  famous  soldier  after  the 
close  of  the  Russo-Japanese  war  in  which  his  two  sons 
had  been  killed,  devoted  nearly  all  his  income  to  the 
support  of  the  widows  of  soldiers,  and  with  his  wife  lived 
in  the  most  Spartan  simplicity  in  a  very  unpretentious 
little  cottage.  Through  a  window  one  can  look  in  and 
see  the  spots  where  the  bodies  of  the  General  and  his 
devoted  wife  were  found  after  they  had  committed 
suicide  while  the  Emperor's  funeral  ceremony  was  going 
on.  After  luncheon  the  others  went  to  the  Baroness 
Uchida's  for  a  reception  to  the  trustees  and  alumnae  of 
the  Doshisha,  but  Peter  and  I  visited  the  Asakusa 
section,  called  the  Tokyo  Coney  Island.  It  is  a  quarter 
of  little  streets  lined  with  booths  selling  all  sorts  of 
gimcracks,  cheap  wares,  and  things  to  eat.  There  are 
many  theaters  and  cinemas,  a  menagerie,  and  all  sorts  of 
catch-penny  devices.  At  one  side  of  the  district  is  the 
famous  Asakusa  temple  celebrated  by  appearing  in  one 
of  Hiroshige's  well  known  prints.  After  we  had  seen  a 
theatrical  performance  representing  a  Japanese  equiva- 
lent of  the  custard-pie  variety  of  comedy  we  went  on  to 
the  famous  Kano  school  of  ju-jVtsu.  In  an  immense 
hall  with  matting-covered  floor  twenty  or  thirty  pairs  of 
perspiring  young  men  were  engaged  in  very  spirited 
contests,  throwing  each  other  around  in  what  seemed  to 
be  most  dangerous  fashion.   The  opponents  were  always 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    65 

of  different  degrees  of  proficiency  as  indicated  by  the 
colors  of  their  sashes,  white,  brown,  and  black  being  the 
three  degrees,  with  the  latter  the  highest,  the  superior 
serving  as  instructor  to  the  less  advanced  student.  For 
dinner  we  had  been  invited  to  Mr.  Kabayama's,  a  class- 
mate of  Arthur's  and  son  of  the  famous  admiral.  The 
house  and  dinner  were  in  foreign  style  and  among  the 
guests  were  Ambassador  and  Mrs.  Warren,  and  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Ballantyne  of  the  Embassy.  We  were  all  charmed 
with  Mrs.  Kabayama  who  writes  delightful  poetry  and 
also  paints  very  prettily.  To  entertain  us  after  dinner, 
Mr.  Kabayama  had  secured  a  remarkable  artist  who 
seated  himself  on  the  floor  surrounded  by  his  materials, 
and  then  painted  pictures  about  two  feet  by  three  in  size 
very  quickly  and  effectively  of  any  subject  suggested. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  6th.  Tokyo. — Nautical  matters  took 
Jake  to  Yokohama  this  morning  and  Harriet  visited 
some  of  the  girls'  schools.  The  rest  of  us  went  to  the 
Okura  museum,  which  is  the  mansion  of  the  famous 
millionaire  who  started  in  life  as  a  fish-monger  and 
before  his  death  had  accumulated  one  of  the  finest 
collections  of  art  objects  in  Japan.  The  buildings  were 
chilly  and  we  had  to  hurry  through  them  to  keep  from 
congealing,  but  the  exhibits  were  very  fine,  especially 
some  of  the  old  paintings  and  lacquers.  Before  lunch 
we  stopped  at  Hattori's  and  saw  old  brocades  and 
priest's  robes.  Prof.  Miyaki  accompanied  me  to  the 
University  where  we  spent  the  afternoon.  It  covers 
an  immense  tract  of  ground  and  the  buildings  containing 
the  class  rooms  and  laboratories  are  modern  and  ugly. 


66  Aloha  Around  the  World 

f 

The  hospital  is  built  on  the  pavilion  system  with  one 
story  wards  and  long  connecting  corridors.  The  nurses 
are  white-uniformed  Japanese  girls  who  appear  to  be 
deft  and  intelligent.  Prof.  Inada,  who  is  chief  of  one  of 
the  medical  divisions  is  a  delightful  man,  and  it  was  a 
pleasure  to  discuss  medical  questions  with  such  a  fine 
clinician. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hayashi  took  us  to  the  Maple  Club 
in  order  that  we  might  see  what  a  real  Japanese 
dinner  is  like  and  it  was  a  most  interesting  experience. 
We  sat,  shoeless  of  course,  on  the  floor  around  the  three 
sides  of  the  room  with  numerous  hibachis  at  which  to 
toast  our  numb  fingers  for  there  were  only  paper  walls 
to  keep  out  the  chill  December  air.  Each  diner  had 
before  him  a  low  tray  for  his  dishes  and  a  geisha  to 
entertain  him  and  to  assist  the  nesans  who  brought  in 
the  courses,  in  arranging  the  dishes  on  the  tray  and  to 
give  us  strangers  tips  about  the  use  of  chop  sticks  and 
matters  of  etiquette.  The  menu  was  very  long  and 
complicated.  It  began  with  a  hors  d'ceuvre  of  chestnut 
candy,  very  rich  and  sweet,  and  ended  with  a  bowl  of 
rice.  In  between  came  a  succession  of  pale  and  watery 
soups  in  which  floated  delicately  flavored  things  like 
lilly  bulbs  or  bamboo  shoots,  interspersed  with  little 
bits  of  cold  quail  or  fish  and  lots  of  other  things,  all 
assisted  by  frequent  libations  of  lukewarm  saki  which 
each  geisha  kept  pouring  from  a  porcelain  bottle  into  a 
saucerless  cup,  somewhat  smaller  than  half  an  egg 
shell.  The  meal  took  a  long  time  for  the  courses  were 
endless,  and  most  of  the  dishes  seemed  to  our  un- 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon   67 

accustomed  palates  rather  insipid  and  unsatisfying,  all 
except  the  daikon,  a  sort  of  fermented  radish  which  is  a 
favorite  food  but  which  may  be  compared  in  odor  to 
limburger  cheese.  But  it  was  all  charmingly  done,  the 
dishes  and  the  young  ladies  both  seemed  almost  too 
exquisitely  ornamental  to  serve  for  anything  except  to 
be  looked  at,  and  the  whole  memory  is  one  of  grace  and 
delicacy  with  little  of  the  substantial.  Later  more 
gorgeously  dressed  geishas  appeared,  and  to  a  samisen 
accompaniment  performed  two  pantomimic  dances 
which  consisted  of  graceful  posturings  rather  than  of 
dancing  in  our  sense  of  the  word. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  yth.  Tokyo. — Harriet  visited  the 
Y.  W.  C.  A.  with  Miss  Scott  while  Fluff  went  to  St. 
Margaret's  School  for  Girls  and  St.  Paul's  College,  and 
afterward  lunched  at  the  Embassy  together  with  Bishop 
McKim.  Peter,  William ,  and  I  poked  around  the  shops 
including  the  very  interesting  Shimbi  Shoin  where 
beautiful  reproductions  are  made  of  the  old  color  prints, 
and  also  went  through  the  Nakadori  or  curio  street. 
The  afternoon  was  one  succession  of  tea  drinkings. 
First  we  all  went  to  the  Imperial  Gardens  of  the  Hama 
Palace  where  we  were  met  by  Mr.  Takahashi,  Master  of 
Ceremonies  to  Prince  Fushiwa,  and  Mr.  Adashi,  who 
escorted  us  over  the  Wistaria  Bridge  and  through  the 
park-like  grounds  to  a  summer  house  where  tea  was 
served,  brought  at  much  trouble  in  motors  from  the 
Prince's  palace.  This  function  over  we  had  more  tea  at 
the  Embassy  reception,  and  at  the  hotel,  Miss  Hoshida 
gave  another  tea  for  Fluff  and  fifteen  or  twenty  Y.  M. 


68  Aloha  Around  the  World 

C.  A.  workers  including  Peter's  friend  Mr.  Kanzo  Uchi- 
mura.  The  James  dined  at  the  Naval  Attache  Cap- 
tain Watson's,  but  Peter,  William,  and  I  went  with 
Nakano  to  the  famous  Manyasu  restaurant  where 
we  had  a  meal  similar  to  the  one  at  the  Maple  Club 
though  somewhat  less  elaborate,  but  including  raw 
fish,  a  delicacy  we  had  not  tasted  before.  In  addition 
to  the  fully  trained  geishas  there  were  also  younger  half- 
trained  girls  or  maikos  to  entertain  us,  the  latter  being 
not  more  than  twelve  to  fourteen  years  old  and  special- 
izing in  dancing. 

Thursday,  Dec.  8th.  Tokyo. — The  others  preceded  us 
to  Yokohama  but  Peter  and  I  went  to  the  Palace  to  sign 
the  names  of  the  party  in  the  Imperial  guest  book,  in 
acknowledgment  of  our  tea  drinking  yesterday  in  the 
Hama  Palace  gardens.  We  all  met  for  luncheon  at  the 
Grand  Hotel  and  then  went  out  to  Aloha  where  prep- 
arations were  actively  going  on  for  the  party  that  was  to 
wind  up  our  stay  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Captain 
Cone,  of  the  Huron,  sent  his  Filipino  band  to  enliven 
the  occasion,  and  he  and  many  of  his  officers  came  later, 
as  well  as  about  a  hundred  other  guests  from  Tokyo  and 
Yokohama.  Among  them  were  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hayashi, 
Prof,  and  Mrs.  Miyako,  Admiral  Baron  S.  Uriu,  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Maeda,  the  Keenes,  the  Ballantynes,  Count  de 
Salis,  Mr.  Moffet,  the  British  Consul  General,  and  many 
others.  Mr.  Scidmore  who  has  been  consul  here  ever 
since  the  time  of  Coronet's  visit  twenty-five  years  ago, 
as  well  as  Miss  Hoshida  and  Harold  Egleston,  stayed 
for  dinner.     While  we  were  sitting  over  the  coffee  and 


Wayside  Tea  House 

Along  the  road  to  Chuzenji  were  numerous  resting  places  like  this,  where  friendly  little 
hostesses  dispensed  refreshment  to  the  thirsty. 


Sacred  Deer  at  Nara 

Browsing  about  in  the  magnificent  park  enclosing  Nara's  many  temples  and  shrines  are 
hundreds  of  deer.    Until  fifty  years  ago,  to  kill  one  was  a  capital  offense. 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    69 

cigarettes  there  was  a  violent  earthquake  which  for 
about  two  minutes  lifted  the  ship  up  and  down  as  if  she 
were  in  a  seaway.  Later  we  learned  that  the  shock  was 
the  most  severe  in  twenty-eight  years,  and  the  seismo- 
graphic  instruments  showed  that  it  lasted  a  little  over 
ten  minutes.  A  good  deal  of  damage  was  done  in  Tokyo, 
the  most  serious  result  being  the  breaking  of  the  main 
water  pipes  of  the  city,  causing  a  water  famine  of  several 
days'  duration. 

Friday,  Dec.  gih.  Miyanoshita. — Mr.  Forgo,  mana- 
ger of  the  Imperial  Hotel  came  on  board  for  lunch,  and 
then  we  departed  on  the  1:40  train  for  Miyanoshita. 
The  railroad  journey  was  quite  interesting  with  fine 
views  of  the  shore  line,  and  we  were  surprised  to  see 
oranges  and  bamboo  in  profusion  in  some  of  the  towns 
we  passed.  At  Odawara,  which  like  most  Japanese 
cities  apparently,  was  once  the  capital,  we  left  the  train 
and  went  the  rest  of  the  distance  in  motors,  traveling 
steadily  upward  along  a  fine  winding  road  through  beau- 
tiful gorges  with  splendid  glimpses  of  the  distant 
mountains.  At  Miyanoshita  we  did  not  stop  but  went 
right  on  to  Lake  Hakone  about  eight  miles  further, 
reaching  there  just  at  dusk.  The  famous  view  of  Fuji 
mirrored  in  the  waters  of  the  lake  was  not  visible  but  the 
surroundings  were  very  pretty  and  not  unlike  any  one  of 
a  great  many  places  in  the  Adirondacks.  The  Matsuzaka 
Hotel  where  we  had  tea  and  excellent  "  castel"  sponge 
cake  is  the  same  at  which  Arthur  and  Harriet  stopped 
twenty-five  years  ago,  and  they  were  amused  to  find 
their  old  rooms  still  unchanged.    The  hostess  and  a 


70  Aloha  Around  the  World 

crowd  of  chattering  and  giggling  nesans  were  much 
entertained  by  us,  and  on  our  departure  called  friendly 
sayonaras  after  us  as  long  as  we  were  in  hearing.  The 
Fujiya  Hotel,  kept  by  Mr.  Yamaguchi,  brother  of  Mr. 
Kanaya  in  Nikko,  is  one  of  the  finest  in  Japan  and  we 
found  it  very  comfortable.  Miyanoshita  is  famous  for 
the  wooden  wares  that  are  produced  here  in  infinite 
variety  and  during  the  evening  Fluff  and  I  wandered  up 
and  down  the  winding  main  street  of  the  town  doing 
some  very  satisfactory  Christmas  shopping  while  the 
others  played  bridge. 

Saturday,  Dec.  10th.  Kyoto. — For  the  first  time  since 
our  arrival  in  Japan  it  rained  and  the  mountains  were 
shrouded  in  heavy  mist.  This  was  a  great  disappoint- 
ment for  the  drive  from  here  is  famous  for  its  views  of 
Fuji,  but  we  decided  to  take  the  motors  anyhow  instead 
of  returning  to  Odawara  and  boarding  the  train  there. 
It  was  well  worth  while  for  the  military  mountain  road 
is  a  splendid  piece  of  construction  and  though  the 
distant  summits  were  invisible  most  of  the  time,  the 
views  of  the  valleys  hundreds  of  feet  below  dotted  with 
villages  and  checkered  with  well  tilled  fields  were  superb. 
Peter  of  course  was  interested  in  the  aeroplane  view  of 
the  golf  course  at  Sengokuhara  and  finally  the  crest  of 
the  divide  was  reached  at  the  Long  Tail  Pass  at  an 
altitude  of  3200  feet.  After  passing  through  the 
Nagao  Toge  tunnel  the  road  descended  rapidly  and 
soon  reached  Gotemba.  From  here  on  villages  were 
frequent  and  it  was  interesting  to  see  the  people  working 
in  the  fields  in  spite  of  the  rain  with  wide,  pointed 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    71 

umbrella  hats  and  shaggy  rain  coats  made  of  straw  just 
as  they  are  so  often  shown  in  Hiroshige's  prints.  This 
is  a  famous  region  for  tea  and  we  passed  many  tea 
gardens,  finally  reaching  Numazu  at  eleven-thirty. 
Here  there  was  quite  a  wait  for  the  train  and  the  crowd 
in  the  station  were  much  interested  in  Fluff  and  Harriet, 
the  women  being  greatly  taken  with  their  clothes, 
especially  the  furs,  and  were  delighted  with  some  flowers 
that  were  given  them.  The  journey  to  Kyoto  was  very 
comfortable  for  Nakano  secured  a  special  compartment 
that  held  us  all  and  there  was  also  an  observation  car  at 
the  end  of  the  train  where  we  met  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Waddell. 
Mr.  Waddell  has  just  returned  from  a  long  stay  in 
China  where  he  has  been  building  bridges  and  lecturing 
on  engineering  and  he  had  much  of  interest  to  relate. 
It  was  dark  when  we  arrived  in  Kyoto  but  Miss  Denton, 
Prof.  Nakasako,  and  about  one  hundred  girls  from  the 
Doshisha  were  waiting  in  the  station  and  gave  Arthur 
and  Harriet  a  rousing  reception.  It  was  quite  a  drive 
through  the  brightly  lighted  streets  to  the  Myako  Hotel 
which  is  on  a  hillside  overlooking  the  city  and  is  a 
rambling  old  structure  with  long  and  icy  corridors,  but 
no  doubt  is  very  attractive  during  the  warmer  months. 
After  dinner,  Peter,  William,  and  I  walked  down  the  hill 
and  through  the  city  in  order  to  get  some  first  impres- 
sions and  were  especially  entertained  by  Theater  Street. 
This  was  brilliantly  lighted  and  gay  with  lanterns  and 
banners.  There  were  many  cinemas  with  gaudy 
posters  to  attract  the  public  and  we  were  in  hope  of 
finding  a  Japanese  picture,  but  the  films  were  all  foreign 


72  Aloha  Around  the  World 

and  it  was  more  amusing  to  watch  the  throngs  outside. 
Here  again  we  were  struck  by  the  great  orderliness  and 
good  behavior  of  the  Japanese  crowds,  for  though  the 
streets  were  densely  packed  there  was  little  noise  except 
for  the  clicking  of  the  getas,  and  the  utmost  good  humor 
seemed  to  prevail.  We  stopped  in  various  shops  to  look 
at  things  and  were  always  cordially  welcomed  and  gen- 
erally raised  a  laugh  by  our  attempts  at  conversation. 
There  was  much  activity  around  the  booth  where  an 
auction  was  being  held  and  here  we  found  that  in  this 
as  in  so  many  other  ways  the  Japanese  do  things  as  we 
think  backwards,  for  the  auctioneer  does  the  bidding 
while  the  buyers  remain  silent.  The  price  of  an  article 
is  started  above  its  value  and  gradually  is  reduced 
till  someone  in  the  crowd  calls  out  "sold"  or  its 
equivalent. 

Sunday,  Dec.  nth.  Kyoto. — Peter  and  I  spent  the 
morning  visiting  some  of  the  industries  for  which  Kyoto 
is  famous  such  as  the  potteries,  cloisonne,  and  damas- 
cene-work shops.  At  Namikawa's  there  was  a  most 
delightful  garden  with  charming  rockeries  and  trees  and 
venerable  carp  swimming  in  the  miniature  lake,  and  the 
pieces  of  cloisonne  which  pretty  Mrs.  Namikawa 
showed  us  were  exquisite  examples  of  this  beautiful  art. 
We  were  also  interested  to  see  in  the  workshop  of  O. 
Komai  how  the  damascene-work  is  done  and  to  learn 
that  it  originated  in  Damascus  and  was  carried  by  the 
Moors  to  Spain,  also  making  its  way  to  the  Far  East. 
Now  it  has  become  extinct  in  the  regions  of  its  origin  but 
still  flourishes  in  the  widely  separated  countries  of  Spain 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon    73 

and  Japan.  Kyoto  is  also  noted  for  its  colored  fabrics 
and  we  saw  long  bolts  of  cloth  being  washed  in  the 
canal,  the  water  of  which  is  supposed  to  have  qualities 
that  are  especially  valuable  in  setting  the  dye.  Lunch- 
eon over,  Miss  Denton  took  Peter,  William,  and  me  to  an 
art  exhibition  held  in  a  fine  building  devoted  to  such 
purposes  where  a  great  number  of  art  objects  of  all  kinds 
and  great  rarity  were  on  view  preliminary  to  a  sale. 
Everything  was  set  about  so  that  it  could  be  handled 
and  studied  and  there  was  a  large  crowd  of  prospective 
buyers  examining  and  discussing  the  different  articles, 
making  notes  on  them,  etc.  The  most  important  ex- 
hibits were  a  pair  of  wonderful  antique  gold  screens 
valued  at  fifteen  thousand  yen.  On  the  way  to  Lake 
Biwa  we  passed  along  the  famous  Tokaido  road  over 
which  for  centuries  the  daimios  traveled  in  state  to  pay 
their  annual  homage  to  the  shoguns.  At  one  point 
outside  the  city,  still  marked  by  the  ancient  monument, 
all  travelers  were  compelled  to  stop  and  put  covers  over 
their  spear  points.  This  so  irked  one  proud  old  noble, 
Hideyoshi,  that  in  order  to  avoid  passing  through 
Kyoto  on  the  way  to  his  castle  beyond,  he  built  for  him- 
self alone  a  branch  road  making  a  detour  around  the 
city,  which  is  still  in  use.  A  little  further  on  we  stopped 
to  call  at  the  besso  or  country  house  of  Mr.  Namikawa, 
father  and  predecessor  of  the  present  cloisonne  maker. 
It  was  a  charming  little  place  and  the  old  gentleman 
is  a  great  carp  fancier  for  in  his  diminutive  lake  are 
several  hundred  of  the  fish,  some  of  them  reputed  to  be 
over  a  century  old.     Lake  Biwa  was  very  picturesque 


74  Aloha  Around  the  World 

but  we  were  sorry  to  find  that  the  sacred  pine  tree  eight 
hundred  years  old  by  its  shore,  which  has  been  trained 
so  that  its  branches  cover  an  area  over  a  hundred  feet 
in  diameter,  has  recently  died.  On  returning  to  the 
city  we  saw  at  Mr.  Hayashi's  another  antique  of  great 
price,  a  Chinese  bronze  vase  of  lovely  green  patina  said 
to  be  a  thousand  years  old  and  valued  at  a  hundred  and 
eighty  thousand  yen.  That  evening  we  attended  the 
second  night's  celebration  of  the  golden  wedding  of  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Osawa  and  also  of  the  silver  wedding  of  their 
son  and  daughter-in-law,  the  entire  festival  extending 
over  three  nights.  It  was  held  at  the  Kyoto  Hotel  and 
after  an  elaborate  dinner  the  seventy-five  or  a  hundred 
guests  were  entertained  by  samisen  music,  a  sleight-of- 
hand  performance,  and  a  moving  picture.  Harriet 
missed  the  day's  adventures  as  she  had  to  spend  the  day 
in  the  house  to  take  care  of  her  cold,  and  after  going 
to  church  with  William  in  the  morning,  Fluff  remained 
indoors  for  the  same  reason. 

Monday,  Dec.  12th.  Kyoto. — Peter,  William,  and  I 
looked  about  the  town  during  the  morning  and  then  met 
the  others  at  Yamanaka's.  After  seeing  some  of  the 
art  objects  there  we  proceeded  to  the  Doshisha.  First 
we  inspected  the  buildings  which  are  splendidly  planned 
and  maintained  and  then  went  to  the  main  entrance  of 
James  Hall,  in  front  of  which  about  two  thousand  of  the 
students,  boys  and  girls,  were  gathered,  and  when 
President  Ebina  had  introduced  Arthur  and  Harriet 
there  was  tremendous  cheering  for  those  who  had  done 
so  much  to  make  Doshisha  possible.     They  both  were 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon   75 

called  on  to  address  the  students  and  though  taken  by 
surprise  made  beautifully  finished  speeches,  which 
Professor  Nakasako  repeated  in  Japanese.  Then  there 
was  a  luncheon  party  at  Miss  Denton's,  and  the  Jameses 
stayed  on  for  more  ceremonies  but  the  rest  of  us  went  to 
the  Nishimura  factory  and  saw  the  process  of  making 
lacquer  work.  Later  we  all  met  again  at  Yamanaka's 
for  the  Tea  Ceremony  which  was  charmingly  carried 
out  for  us  with  all  its  formal  etiquette  by  Mrs. 
Yamanaka  assisted  by  her  little  daughter.  After  the 
ceremony  was  over  we  retired  from  the  tea  room,  and  as 
is  the  custom  had  a  meal  of  several  courses,  which  was 
served  in  exquisite  lacquered  dishes,  the  prettiest  and 
finest  we  have  seen.  After  dinner  Miss  Denton  ac-  -. 
companied  us  to  the  Minamiza  Theater  to  see •feanjiro,-  f\)OMMlSlA 
the  most  famous  actor  in  Japan,  who  although  seventy-  qT*  •  i 
three  years  old  played  the  part  of  a  young  man  most  * 
convincingly.  The  story  was  that  of  a  youth  in  the 
daimio  days  who  steals  his  employer's  money  to  secure 
the  freedom  of  a  geisha  with  whom  he  is  in  love,  and 
consequently  is  in  danger  of  arrest  and  execution.  This 
play  was  followed  by  comedy  with  dancing  and  pagean- 
try, well  done  by  a  large  chorus,  though  in  this  as  in  the 
previous  performance  all  the  parts  were  taken  by  men. 
The  auditorium  is  very  large  and  the  stage  revolves  so 
that  scene  shifting  is  done  without  delay.  Most  of  the 
audience  sat  on  the  floor  in  little  compartments  holding 
four  or  more  people,  but  we  had  a  box  at  the  rear  with 
chairs  and  numerous  hibachis  and  teapots.  The 
performance  begins  at  five  and  most  people  bring  their 


76  Aloha  Around  the  World 

dinners  or  have  them  sent  in  so  that  there  is  eating  and 
tea  drinking  going  on  constantly. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  13th.  Nara. — Arthur  and  Harriet 
remained  in  Kyoto  doing  shopping  and  seeing  their 
friends  while  the  rest  of  us  with  Nakano  motored  to 
Nara.  The  suburbs  of  Kyoto  go  on  indefinitely  and  our 
progress  was  slow  through  the  narrow  and  crowded 
streets,  but  there  was  something  of  interest  to  see  at 
every  moment  and  we  were  glad  that  speeding  was 
impossible.  After  getting  into  the  open  country  we 
passed  quaint  villages  full  of  children  who  lined  up  at 
the  side  of  the  road  as  we  passed  and  called  out  Banzai 
I  gin  San!  Welcome  Mr.  Stranger! — even  little  tots 
that  could  barely  talk  at  all.  At  Monoyama  or  Peach 
Hill  we  stopped  to  see  the  tomb  of  the  Emperor  Mut- 
suhito  who  was  buried  here  in  1 9 1 2 .  It  is  at  the  summit 
of  a  hill  with  a  fine  view  down  the  valley  and  is  reached 
by  a  magnificent  approach  of  two  hundred  and  thirty 
granite  steps  thirty  feet  wide,  and  when  we  had  reached 
the  top  we  felt  the  ascent  was  much  more  than  an 
equivalent  of  our  much  neglected  ''daily  dozen."  The 
road  then  led  through  Uji,  noted  for  its  fine  tea  and  for 
the  so-called  battle  of  the  fireflies  which  takes  place 
there  in  the  summer  and  attracts  great  crowds. 

Nara  was  enchanting.  The  avenues  of  stone  lanterns 
shadowed  by  giant  cryptomerias  led  in  graceful  curves 
up  and  down  through  the  great  park,  and  as  we  walked 
the  famous  sacred  deer  nuzzled  against  us  begging  for 
the  bran  cakes  which  are  on  sale  especially  for  their 
delectation.     The  temples,  though  not  so  elaborate  as 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon   77 

those  at  Nikko,  are  beautifully  placed  and  in  one 
some  sacred  dancing  girls  with  curiously  whitened  faces 
and  flowing  garments  performed  for  us  a  ceremonial 
dance  to  the  accompaniment  of  a  weird  chant  by  a 
wizened,  white  robed  bonze  who  must  have  been 
at  least  a  thousand  years  old.  Then  we  paid  six  sen 
each  to  whack  an  enormous  bell,  one  of  the  largest  in 
this  land  of  monster  bells,  with  a  great  swinging  beam, 
and  fed  beans  to  the  sacred  pony  which  is  yellow  now 
but  will  ultimately  become  pure  white  by  virtue  of  its 
sanctity.  The  Daibutsu  here,  cast  eleven  hundred 
years  ago  is  bigger  than  the  one  at  Kamakura  though 
not  nearly  so  fine  in  conception,  but  is  interesting  be- 
cause it  is  still  enclosed  in  its  huge,  recently  restored 
temple  with  a  roof  160  feet  above  the  floor,  while  the 
protecting  structure  at  Kamakura  is  no  longer  existent 
having  been  destroyed  by  a  flood  two  years  after 
Columbus  discovered  America.  Returning,  we  fol- 
lowed a  longer  road  which  passed  through  lovely 
open  country  where  we  could  make  better  time,  and  in 
the  twilight  enjoyed  the  companionship  of  the  moun- 
tains that  encircle  Kyoto  and  protect  the  city  from  the 
incursions  of  evil  spirits. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  14th.  Kyoto. — We  made  an  early 
start  for  the  Nijo  palace  but  I  think  that  its  boasted 
magnificence  fell  somewhat  short  of  everyone's  expec- 
tations and  left  us  cold,  both  physically  and  esthetically. 
Some  of  the  apartments  were  dignified  and  stately  with 
their  splendid  gold  panels  decorated  with  pine  trees  in 
dusky  green,  but  the  general  impression  was  rather 


78  Aloha  Around  the  World 

gloomy  and  the  absence  of  any  evidence  of  human  habi- 
tation made  the  great  rooms  seem  bare  and  forbidding. 
Even  the  much-lauded  wet  heron  appeared  only  a  rather 
bedraggled  and  faded  fowl  and  the  no  less  celebrated 
watching  lion  failed  entirely  to  be  intimidating.  As 
the  Crown  Prince  was  in  residence  no  one  could  be 
admitted  to  the  other  palace,  so  Fluff  went  to  visit  St. 
Andrew's  School  for  Girls  while  we  drove  to  see  the 
famous  ancient  cherry  tree  in  Maruyama  Park  which 
forms  the  central  feature  of  the  festivals  held  here  in 
cherry  blossom  time.  After  luncheon  and  many  polite 
farewells  from  the  nice  Mr.  Hamaguchi,  proprietor  of  the 
Miyako  Hotel  we  went  on  to  Kobe  and  arrived  there  at 
about  three  o'clock  after  passing  the  factories  and  tall 
smoke-stacks  of  Osaka,  Japan's  Manchester.  Kobe  has 
an  enormous  port  so  full  of  shipping  that  the  best  moor- 
ing that  could  be  secured  for  Aloha  was  so  far  from  the 
American  Hatoba  that  it  took  fifteen  minutes  for  the 
launch  to  make  the  journey.  William  visited  the  office 
of  his  company  and  Peter  and  I  walked  up  the  Moto 
Machi,  gay  with  Christmas  banners,  but  the  quarters  of 
the  city  near  the  port  did  not  appear  very  interesting 
and  we  soon  went  aboard,  where  a  party  was  in  progress 
for  Miss  Denton  and  about  seventy-five  of  the  Doshisha 
girls  who  had  come  down  from  Kyoto  to  bid  farewell 
to  Arthur  and  Harriet.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Drummond  of 
Osaka  who  had  put  their  car  at  our  disposal  in  Kyoto 
were  there  and  it  was  a  pleasant  surprise  also  to  find 
Tom  Blagden,  who  stayed  with  us  for  dinner. 

Thursday,  Dec.  15th.     Inland  Sea. — The  inland  sea 


The  Park  at  Nara 


A  torii  and  some  of  the  thousands  of  stone  lanterns  that  border  the  delightful  cryptomeria- 
shaded  pathways  winding  in  all  directions. 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon   79 

is  truly  a  sea  of  enchantment  that  justifies  all  the 
expectations  that  had  been  aroused  by  the  accounts  we 
had  read  and  heard,  and  today's  passage  through  it  has 
been  one  succession  of  delights.  We  got  under  way  at 
four  a.m.  in  charge  of  a  Japanese  pilot  and  have  had  a 
day  of  perfect  sea  and  sky.  At  times  we  passed  through 
bays  that  seemed  about  as  wide  as  Long  Island  Sound 
and  again  the  channel  lay  between  islands  so  close 
together  that  the  people  on  shore  could  plainly  be  seen ; 
but  always  there  are  islands  large  and  small  in  endless 
numbers,  some  high  and  even  mountainous,  some  low- 
lying  with  sandy  shores,  some  barren-looking  and  some 
with  villages  at  the  water's  edge  and  terraced  fields 
climbing  high  up  the  hillsides,  but  all  lovely  objects 
in  the  ever-changing  lights  of  morning,  afternoon  and 
evening.  Most  interesting  of  all  were  the  junks  and 
other  sailing  vessels  coming  in  fleets  of  a  hundred  or 
more,  carrying  coal  from  Shimonoseki  or  engaged  in 
coastwise  trade  between  the  villages.  The  moon  was 
full  and  the  evening  air  seemed  almost  as  balmy  as  it 
used  to  be  long  ago  in  the  Caribbean.  At  one  o'clock 
we  reached  Miyajima  and  lay  the  rest  of  the  night  at 
anchor. 

Friday,  Dec.  16th.  Miyajima. — We  awoke  lying 
placidly  at  anchor  in  the  lovely  Hiroshima  Bay  girdled 
by  mountains,  violet  and  lavender  in  the  morning  haze. 
Before  us  was  the  island  of  Miyajima  considered  by  the 
Japanese  one  of  the  "three  great  sights"  the  others 
being  Matsushima  and  Amanohashidate,  though  for 
most  foreigners  such  places  as  Nikko  and  Nara  and 


80  Aloha  Around  the  World 

numerous  others  are  of  at  least  equal  charm.  Another 
name  for  Miyajima  is  Ongashima,  which  means  "gentle 
island"  and  its  tranquil  beauty  seems  to  justify  the 
term.  No  dogs  are  allowed  and  deer  roam  about  the 
temple  grounds  as  unconcernedly  as  at  Nara.  The 
ancient  Shinto  temple  is  built  on  piles  and  at  high  tide 
the  water  almost  laps  the  endless  lengths  of  winding 
corridors  that  surround  the  building,  so  that  the  entire 
structure  seems  afloat  and  is  mirrored  in  the  placid 
surface.  In  front  of  it,  several  hundred  feet  from 
shore,  stands  the  high  torii,  its  faded  red  and  graceful 
proportions  showing  prettily  through  the  trees  as  one 
approaches  the  temple  buildings.  A  delightful  path 
winds  up  the  hillside  through  groves  of  stately  ever- 
greens under  whose  boughs  one  gets  charming  glimpses 
of  the  bay,  the  tall  pagoda  and  the  distant  mountains. 
As  it  returns  to  the  town  it  passes  little  groups  of 
detached  houses  forming  part  of  the  hotel  accommo- 
dations, each  set  in  a  tiny  garden  with  rocky  pools  and 
diminutive  fern-bordered  waterfalls.  It  was  no  easy 
matter  to  leave  behind  such  quantities  of  charmingly 
useless  gimcracks  as  filled  the  many  shops  that  line 
the  town's  few  streets,  and  Fluff  saw  to  it  that  we  did 
not  depart  with  empty  hands,  but  at  ten-forty  we  were 
back  on  board  and  a  few  minutes  later  were  under 
way  again.  The  afternoon  was  a  repetition  of  the 
previous  day  and  we  steamed  on  past  island  after 
island,  large  and  small,  high  and  low,  verdant  and 
rocky,  with  cultivated  hillsides  or  barren  slopes  in 
infinite  variety.     On  every  hand  were  the  countless 


Temples  and  Shrines  in  Dai  Nippon   81 

junks  and  fishing  boats,  or  more  stately  steamers  and 
sailing  ships  that  singly  or  in  groups  went  about  their 
several  occasions.  Never  before  had  the  sea  seemed  so 
convenient  for  man's  use  as  here  where  scores  of  keels 
were  crossing  it  in  all  directions,  giving  it  the 
appearance  of  a  crowded  thoroughfare.  While  we  were 
finishing  lunch  the  first  mishap  of  any  significance 
occurred.  A  sudden  crack  and  jar  made  it  seem  for  a 
moment  as  though  we  had  struck,  but  it  was  one  of  the 
heavy  wire  wheel-ropes  of  the  steam  steering-gear  that 
had  parted.  At  the  time  we  were  in  a  narrow  strait 
between  two  islands  with  a  current  running  five  or  six 
knots,  and  barely  escaped  a  collision  with  a  fishing  boat, 
but  as  usual  the  ship's  officers  and  stores  were  adequate 
for  any  emergency  and  the  broken  cable  was  soon 
replaced  by  a  new  one.  The  evening  continued  beauti- 
ful and  at  nine-thirty  we  passed  through  the  turns  of 
the  Shimonoseki  Straits  with  the  bright  lights  of 
Akamagasaki  and  Moji  on  either  hand,  but  the  glass 
was  falling  rapidly  and  after  we  had  reached  the  open 
we  ran  into  a  heavy  westerly  gale.  We  pitched  and 
rolled  a  good  deal  and  shipped  much  water,  especially 
between  two  and  four  o'clock,  and  it  was  a  most  un- 
comfortable night.  If  the  wind  had  been  a  few  points 
more  from  the  north  it  would  have  delayed  us  for  hours 
and  perhaps  have  caused  us  to  miss  the  connection 
with  the  evening  train  at  Fusan. 


CHAPTER  IV 

KOREAN  COLD  AND  PEKING  DUST 

Saturday,  Dec.  17th.  Fusan. — Like  the  one  in  The 
Swiss  Family  Robinson,  Jake's  favorite  literary  pro- 
duction, the  gale  "continued  with  unabated  violence' ' 
through  the  morning  but  fortunately  did  not  greatly 
impede  our  progress  so  that  we  made  good  time  and  by 
noon  had  covered  the  hundred  and  ten  miles  from 
Shimonoseki  to  Fusan.  During  the  afternoon  we  tried 
to  go  ashore  but  were  not  allowed  to  land  as  the  customs 
officials  had  not  been  aboard  and  by  the  time  this 
formality  had  been  carried  out,  it  was  too  late  to  leave 
before  dinner,  but  the  beautiful  land-locked  harbor 
with  high  mountains  all  about  was  a  pleasant  place  in 
which  to  lie  and  enjoy  the  immobility  of  Aloha's  deck 
after  her  lively  curvettings  of  the  night  and  morning. 
Shortly  after  dinner  we  embarked  for  shore  and  met 
with  a  chilly  reception  on  Korea's  icy  strand,  but  the 
station  hotel  was  a  comfortable  waiting  place.  Peter 
and  I  went  with  Nakano  to  a  Japanese  moving  picture 
and  found  it  most  entertaining.  It  was  a  story  of 
Samurai  adventure  and  was  fairly  reeking  with  blood- 
shed and  sudden  death.     In  Korea  the  well  known 

silent  drama  is  evidently  far  from  silent,  since  for  each 

82 


Sunset  on  the  Inland  Sea 

Extending  from  Osaka  to  Shimonoseki,  a  distance  of  about  250  miles,  varying  in  width 
from  three  miles  to  fifty,  and  studded  with  myriads  of  islands,  the  Inland  Sea  is  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  sheets  of  water  in  the  world. 


A  Korean  Mourner 

The  man  squatting  at  the  left  is  in  mourning;  as  is  shown  by  his  huge  straw  hat  which  he 
wears  for  a  year  to  shield  his  grieving  features  from  the  gaze  of  the  multitude. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust       83 

of  the  important  characters  a  separate  spell-binder  on 
the  sidelines  bellowed  appropriate  speeches  and  all  the 
battles  and  murders  went  on  to  the  accompaniment  of 
a  terrific  din  from  banging  sticks  and  drums.  At  ten- 
thirty  we  found  ourselves  in  comfortable  sleeping  com- 
partments on  the  through  express  and  under  way  for 
Peking  via  Seoul  and  Mukden. 

Sunday,  Dec.  18th.  Seoul. — Everyone  awoke  in  good 
spirits  after  a  comfortable  night  and  felt  still  better 
after  the  breakfast  of  many  courses  that  was  slowly  but 
surely  served  in  the  dining  car  by  apple-cheeked  little 
Chinese  boys  in  white  coats  starched  to  an  appalling 
degree  of  stiffness.  The  country  looked  not  unlike 
parts  of  New  Mexico,  except  for  the  rice  fields  coated 
with  a  film  of  ice  and  the  frequent  clusters  of  low,  mud- 
walled  houses  with  brown  thatched  roofs.  At  the 
stations  motley  throngs  crowded  the  platforms;  the  men 
for  the  most  part  in  white  robes  covering  many  layers 
of  wadded  under-garments  and  with  queer  little  stove- 
pipe hats  of  gauzy  stiffened  horsehair-fabric  perched 
over  their  topknots  and  tied  under  the  chin ;  the  women 
also  in  white,  though  often  with  a  touch  of  some  bright 
color,  and  either  bareheaded  or  wearing  a  hood-like 
arrangement  of  black  silk  with  a  gay  tassel  hanging  in 
front.  We  reached  the  Chosen  Hotel  a  little  after  ten 
and  found  it  a  most  well  appointed  and  comfortable 
place.  Harriet,  Arthur,  and  Fluff  started  at  once  with 
Mr.  Brockman  to  church  but  the  rest  of  us  went  to  the 
Imperial  Palace  of  Kei-fuku-kyu.  This  is  a  group  of 
buildings  of  which  the  audience  hall  and  banquet  hall 


84  Aloha  Around  the  World 

were  the  most  impressive,  and  showed  a  wealth  of  wood 
carving  and  brightly  colored  decorative  painting.     It 
seems  a  pity  that  the  great  stone  administration  build- 
ing now  in  course  of  erection  should  have  been  placed 
so  near  as  quite  to  dwarf  these  fine  old  structures  and 
introduce   a  very  incongruous  modern   note.     Most 
interesting  of  all,  however,  were  the  streets  thronged 
with  an  infinite  variety  of  figures,  all  of  them  most 
picturesque.    A  few  of  the  thoroughfares  are  broad 
and  intersect  at  spacious  open  squares  but  leading  from 
these  is  a  labyrinth  of  winding,  narrow  lanes  barely  wide 
enough  to  permit  a  rickshaw  to  squeeze  through.    After 
lunch  we  visited  some  of  these  and  found  many  quaint 
little  shops  where  amber,  jade,  brass,  and  especially  the 
wooden  chests  heavily  ornamented  with  brass,  which 
are  the  most  characteristic  product  Korea  offers  to 
strangers,   were   presented  for  our  inspection.     The 
church-going  members  of  the  party  visited  the  Y.  M.  C. 
A.  where  Jake  made  an  address  through  the  mediation 
of  an  interpreter,  but  the  others  continued  to  explore 
the  town  and  through  a  maze  of  back  alleys  reached  a 
school  where  the  keesang  or  Korean  geishas  are  trained, 
and  a  number  of  very  complicated  dances  in  which 
from  two  to  eight  performers  took  part  were  carried  out 
for  us.     The  movements  were  much  more  active  and 
graceful  than  in  the  Japanese  form  of  entertainment 
and  more  nearly  resembled  what  we  would  consider 
dancing.    After  looking  at  Mr.  Taylor's  fine  collection  of 
art  objects  we  all  returned  to  the  hotel  where  Bishop 
Trollope,  who  has  been  here  for  thirty  years  and  is  a 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust        85 

mine  of  interesting  information  about  the  country,  came 
to  call  upon  us. 

Monday,  Dec.  igth.  Seoul  to  Mukden. — During  the 
night  there  was  a  light  fall  of  snow  which  made  the 
streets  seem  an  appropriate  background  for  the  white- 
robed  Koreans.  At  nine-fifty  we  were  on  board  the 
train,  and  all  day  traveled  through  the  well  cultivated 
valleys  leading  northward  toward  Mukden.  The  hills 
and  fields,  lightly  powdered  with  snow,  sparkled  in  the 
bright  sunshine  and  it  was  a  delight  to  leave  the  train  at 
the  frequent  stops  and  breathe  the  dry,  frosty  air.  The 
country  is  densely  populated  and  we  passed  picturesque 
villages  in  endless  succession,  never  tiring  of  watching 
the  amusing  figures  that  packed  the  station  platforms 
at  every  halt.  The  train  is  all  that  could  be  desired  and 
so  far  our  journey  through  the  Hermit  Kingdom  has 
been  perfectly  comfortable  and  full  of  interest. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  20th.  Mukden. — It  was  six  o'clock  and 
six  below  zero  as  we  emerged  in  Stygian  darkness  on  the 
station  platform  of  Mukden  or  Fengtien,  and  were  met 
by  Mr.  Elder  manager  of  the  southern  division  of  the 
Peking  Mukden  railroad  and  his  son,  and  by  the 
manager  of  the  Yamato  Hotel.  In  the  hotel  we  were 
delighted  to  find  Mr.  Frazar  on  his  way  back  to  Yoko- 
hama from  Peking  and  he  joined  us  at  breakfast  as  well 
as  his  local  manager,  Mr.  Carver.  The  latter  and  the 
younger  Mr.  Elder  conducted  us  about  the  city,  which 
astonished  us  by  its  size  and  by  the  many  fine  buildings 
in  the  new  quarter.  The  population  is  about  250,000 
and  the  city  is  divided  into  two  portions,  the  old  or 


86  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Chinese  city  still  enclosed  by  a  massive  wall  with  eight 
gates,  and  the  new  or  Japanese  city  lying  between  this 
and  the  railroad  station.  This  section  has  wide  ma- 
cadamized streets  and  splendid  modern  buildings  while 
the  Chinese  district  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  most  char- 
acteristic Chinese  cities  in  the  country.  We  drove  first 
to  the  Peiling  mausoleum  about  four  miles  out,  past  the 
Chinese  cemetery  which  consists  of  hundreds  of  irregu- 
lar conical  mounds  of  earth.  The  golf  links  are  adjoin- 
ing and  Mr.  Carver  told  us  that  one  of  the  ground  rules 
is  that  open  graves  or  coffins  may  be  regarded  as 
"ground  under  repair."  The  approach  to  the  tomb  is 
through  a  park  of  fine  evergreens  and  is  guarded  by  an 
avenue  of  stone  elephants,  horses,  camels  and  other 
animals  that  are  more  remarkable  for  their  excellent 
state  of  preservation  than  for  their  fidelity  to  nature. 
The  tomb  itself  is  a  huge  rounded  mound  of  concrete 
and  in  front  of  it  is  a  great  courtyard  containing  the 
oratory  and  surrounded  by  a  wall  with  a  fine  entrance 
gate  roofed  with  colored  tiling.  The  bright  hues  and 
fantastic  outlines  of  the  buildings  in  their  snowy  setting 
made  a  beautiful  picture  in  the  early  morning  sunlight 
against  the  background  of  the  dark  evergreens  and 
made  us  forget  the  biting  cold  that  nipped  our  noses 
and  ears.  On  the  way  back  we  passed  through  the 
teeming  life  of  the  Chinese  city  and  in  the  densely 
thronged,  narrow  streets  a  thousand  new  impressions 
crowded  on  us  at  every  turn.  Our  first  glimpse  of 
China  has  interested  us  immensely  and  we  are  eager 
to  see  more.    At  ten-fifteen  we  parted  with  regret 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust         87 

from  the  excellent  Nakano  and  began  the  last  lap 
of  our  journey  to  Peking  in  the  comfortably  equipped 
train  of  the  P.  M.  R.  At  first  the  country  was 
flat  and  lacked  the  picturesqueness  of  the  Korean 
landscape  but  the  scenes  at  the  stations  where  we 
stopped  were  always  amusing  and  later  in  the  afternoon 
we  reached  a  more  hilly  region  and  the  day  closed  with 
a  glowing  sunset  that  filled  the  sky  with  gorgeous  color. 
Nakano's  parting  gift  was  some  translations  he  had 
made  of  various  articles  appearing  in  the  Japanese 
papers  relating  to  what  he  called  our  "  round  world 
trotting,"  and  some  extracts  from  these  seem  worth 
recording  as  fitting  supplements  to  the  letters  of 
Hashimura  Togo,  Wallace  Irwin's  famous  correspon- 
dent. 

Tokyo  Jiji  Shimpo,  Dec.  10,  IQ2I. 

The  Aloha  the  graceful  yacht  of  Mr.  Arthur  Curtiss 
James  who  has  been  laying  her  beautiful  body  on  the 
sea  just  in  front  of  Yokohama  Yacht  Club  ...  is 
hurrying  her  departure  to  sail  for  Kobe  on  the  ioth 
tomorrow. 

Osaka  Jiji  Shimpo,  Dec.  n,  ip2i. 

...  In  addition  to  important  positions  as  director 
in  Phelps  Dodge  Corporation  Mr.  James  is  concerning 
widely  into  railways,  banks  and  universities.  Union 
Theological  Seminary,  New  York  Library,  Orphan 
Asylum  and  many  navigation  clubs  are  owing  their 
good  development  to  Mr.  James.     A  large  sum  of 


88  Aloha  Around  the  World 

capital  in  organization  of  school  for  education  of  niggers 
and  American  Indians  in  Hampton,  a  girls'  technical 
school  in  Turkey,  Laborer's  Hall  in  America  are  finding 
its  resource  entirely  in  the  pocket  of  Mr.  James. 

Kyoto  Hinode  Shimbun,  Dec.  n,  1921. 

Mr.  James  is  Trying  a  Brave  Round  World  Trotting, 
Crossing  Pacific  Ocean  in  a  Family  Size  Yacht. 

One  of  the  greatest  business  men  and  at  the  same  time 
a  great  monarch  of  charity  in  U.  S.  A.  Mr.  A.  C.  James 
and  his  consort  arrived  in  Yokohama  on  his  Auxiliary 
Yacht  Aloha  on  the  30th  escorted  by  a  number  of 
prominent  business  men  and  scholars.  ...  He  is 
conducting  many  navigation  clubs,  children  asylums, 
libraries  and  Union  Theological  Seminary  as  a  financial 
background  or  an  advising  director.  .  .  .  Aloha  is  an 
extremely  luxurious  boat  accomplished  with  play  rooms 
and  bedrooms  named  after  its  color. 

Osaka  Asabi  Shimbun,  Dec.  11 ,  IQ2I. 

Extremely  Adventurous  Round  World  Sight  Seeing. 

The  great  scheme  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Arthur  Curtiss 
James,  Director  of  Amherst  College  U.  S.  A.  to  cross 
Pacific  Ocean  on  a  graceful  yacht  was  taking  notice 
of  all  the  world  as  a  most  adventurous  round  world 
trip  in  recent  date.  .  .  .  Aloha  is  the  name  of  the 
yacht  in  which  they  are  sitting  now  and  means  God 
help  me  in  Hawaiian  language.  .  .  .  The  construction 
of  yacht  is  extremely  ingenious  but  it  is  an  extreme 
adventure  to  cross  Pacific  Ocean  without  use  of  steam 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust        89 

engine  and  much  more  brave  deeds  to  make  round 
world  trotting  by  the  same.  .  .  .  Mr.  James  has  very 
clear  brain  and  solved  any  hard  problem  in  five  minutes. 
Mr.  James  is  very  clever  to  earn  money  and  equally 
clever  to  spend  it.  He  is  using  enormous  sums  in  social 
improvement,  educational  enterprise  not  only  in  Amer- 
ica but  in  Turkey  and  Armenia.  He  is  stretching  his 
hand  all  over  the  world. 

Wednesday,  Dec.  21st.  Peking. — The  approach  to 
Peking  is  an  uninspiring  prelude  with  a  splendid  climax, 
for  the  country  that  was  visible  through  the  frost- 
coated  windows  did  little  to  prepare  us  for  the  interest 
and  magnificence  that  were  to  come.  The  snow  had  dis- 
appeared but  no  leafy  tree  or  sprig  of  green  relieved  the 
monotony  of  the  bare,  dust-covered  plain  whose  flat 
sameness  was  broken  only  by  occasional  mud-walled 
villages  or  by  the  much  more  numerous  collections  of 
irregular  hummocks  of  brown  earth  that  mark  the  last 
resting  places  of  myriads  of  dead  Chinamen,  and  it 
was  not  until  we  beheld  a  string  of  camels  plodding 
along  a  nearby  road  that  our  interest  in  the  landscape 
was  revived.  Then  suddenly  came  the  first  view  of  the 
high  walls  with  their  massive  watch  towers,  a  sharp  turn 
carried  us  a  long  distance  close  under  the  lofty  battle- 
ments and  on  leaving  the  train  we  found  that  the 
station  is  just  outside  the  famous  Cheng-yang-men  gate 
between  Wai-cheng  and  Nei-cheng,  the  Chinese  and 
the  Tartar  cities.  These  are  the  two  wide-spreading 
precincts  that  must  be  passed  before  the  inner  Yellow 


90  Aloha  Around  the  World 

or  Imperial  City,  and  finally  Peking's  most  secret  and 
recondite  ancient  seat  of  sacred  mystery  and  power,  the 
Purple  or  Forbidden  City  can  be  reached.  A  short 
drive  through  the  Legation  Quarter  brought  us  to  the 
Hotel  de  Peking  where  French  cooking,  tea  dances,  and 
tiled  bath  rooms  made  the  distance  from  without 
through  its  vestibule  seem  five  thousand  miles  instead 
of  a  few  short  feet.  After  luncheon  we  made  a  pre- 
liminary reconnaisance  of  this  new  world  under  the 
direction  of  "Hatch well's"  latest  incarnation,  this  time 
known  as  Mr.  Pae  (pronounced  like  New  England's 
favorite  breakfast  food).  The  broad  streets  were 
teeming  with  life  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  ratio  of  rick- 
shaws to  population  were  even  greater  than  that  of 
flivvers  in  America,  that  is  about  one  to  each  three 
persons.  The  men  were  many  of  them  tall  and  fine- 
looking,  but  there  were  comparatively  few  women  and 
almost  no  children  to  be  seen.  There  were  many  idlers, 
many  in  rags,  and  quantities  of  beggars.  The  latter 
form  a  well  recognized  class  each  with  his  definite  beat 
from  which  he  does  not  venture,  and  are  both  prosperous 
and  not  lacking  in  public  spirit,  for  we  were  told  that 
the  Beggar's  Guild  contributed  $50,000  to  the  famine 
relief  fund.  It  was  astonishing  to  find  that  in  a  city  so 
densely  populated  and  enclosed  by  walls  there  should  be 
so  many  open  spaces  and  tracts  of  unoccupied  land. 
The  contrasts  between  the  old  and  the  new  were  con- 
stant and  striking — traffic  policemen  stood  on  every 
hand  to  direct  the  swarming  crowds  under  century  old 
pai-lous,  and  high  powered  motor  cars,  often  with  a 


Peking  Union  Medical  College  Hospital 

The  formal  opening  of  the  new  medical  college,  which  in  19 15  was  taken  over  by  the  China 
Medical  Board  of  the  Rockefeller  Foundation,  took  place  in  September,  192 1. 


Street  Scene,  Peking 

The  benevolent  looking  old  gentleman  who  has  established  himself  near  the  door  of  an  iron 
worker's  shop  is' a  moneychanger,  with  his  stock  in  trade  on  the  ground  beside  him. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust       91 

footman  on  each  running  board  and  with  a  fat  general  or 
fur- wrapped  mandarin  inside  dashed  by  strings  of  camels 
bearing  loads  of  brushwood,  while  the  dust  was  laid  by 
half -naked  men  who  carried  water  in  buckets  and 
dashed  it  over  the  powdery  streets  with  longhandled 
dippers  made  of  basket  work.  Human  beasts  of  burden 
toiled  as  laboriously  as  the  thousands  of  mules  and 
donkeys,  and  we  saw  some  heavy  piece  of  machinery  on 
a  truck  drawn  by  twenty  or  thirty  panting  coolies. 
Gray  and  white  was  the  prevailing  tone  of  the  low, 
one-story  houses  and  of  the  walls  of  the  compounds, 
except  in  the  business  streets  where  the  shop  fronts  were 
often  higher  and  resplendent  with  green  and  gold.  In 
the  Chinese  city  the  noisy  throngs  elbow  their  way 
through  narrow  crooked  lanes  and  we  had  our  first 
experience  of  the  insidious  contagion  of  Peking  shopping 
in  poking  into  the  queer  little  shops  in  Lantern  Street 
and  Jade  Street.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Francis  A.  Carl  and 
Miss  Carl  dined  with  us  and  later  at  an  entertainment 
for  the  benefit  of  Russian  refugees  and  Chinese 
orphans  given  in  the  hotel  some  of  us  joined  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Johnston  of  New  York  whom  we  had  already  met 
in  Honolulu. 

Thursday,  Dec.  22nd.  Peking. — While  the  others 
went  to  the  Temple  of  Heaven  I  accompanied  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Johnston  to  the  Union  Medical  College  Hospital, 
through  which  we  were  escorted  by  Dr.  Wilson,  Professor 
of  Chemistry  in  the  pre-medical  school.  The  new  build- 
ings given  by  Mr.  Rockefeller  and  formally  opened  only 
a  few  weeks  before,  are  magnificent  both  within  and 


92  Aloha  Around  the  World 

without  in  every  sense  of  the  word,  and  embody  the 
most  modern  ideas  in  hospital  and  laboratory  design  and 
equipment.  In  their  exterior  construction  Chinese 
architectural  motifs  have  been  used  with  good  effect 
and  the  green  tiled  roofs,  marble  courtyards  and 
decorative  carving  and  painting  about  the  entrances 
produce  an  impression  of  the  adaptation  of  western 
progress  to  eastern  conditions  that  must  have  a  very 
favorable  influence  on  the  minds  of  the  Chinese  be- 
holders, and  aid  greatly  in  securing  the  fine  results  that 
the  institution  has  obtained.  The  Director  of  the 
medical  school,  Dr.  Houghton,  received  us  very  cordi- 
ally and  Dr.  Franklin  McLean,  the  Professor  of  Medicine, 
and  Dr.  Young,  Associate  in  Medicine,  had  much  to  show 
me  in  the  fine  laboratories  and  wards,  especially  in 
connection  with  the  work  in  isolating  the  ethyl  esters  of 
chaulmoogra  oil  for  the  treatment  of  leprosy  along  the 
lines  of  the  Hawaiian  researches,  and  in  the  culturing 
of  the  organisms  of  kala-azar.  I  was  also  pleasantly 
surprised  to  meet  Francis  Peabody  and  his  wife  in  the 
hospital  and  am  to  lunch  with  them  tomorrow.  While 
the  morning  in  this  way  afforded  a  striking  object 
lesson  of  the  science  and  altruism  of  today,  the  after- 
noon furnished  a  no  less  telling  demonstration  of  the 
achievements  of  the  past  in  things  of  beauty  and  splen- 
dor, for  our  visit  to  the  Forbidden  City  staggered 
us  with  the  magnificence  of  this  setting  for  the  pomp 
of  China's  early  rulers.  Through  massive  gateways 
piercing  walls  of  immense  dimensions  one  enters  pre- 
cincts into   which   until  comparatively   recently  no 


The  Forbidden  City 

On  the  eaves  of  the  roofs  are  rows  of  little  symbolical 
figures  placed  there  to  ward  off  evil  spirits,  and  known  as 
"devil-chasers." 


The  Forbidden  City 

With  their  roofs  of  golden  yellow  tiling  and  white  marble  balustrades,  the  palaces  and 
great  courtyards  have  a  truly  imperial  appearance. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust       93 

foreign  devil  had  ever  penetrated,  and  stands  entranced 
by  the  golden  roofed  palaces,  the  beauty  of  their  marble 
approaches,  and  the  richness  of  their  interiors — but 
above  all  by  the  skillful  grouping  of  the  buildings  and 
the  huge  scale  on  which  the  whole  was  planned.  Imagin- 
ation peoples  the  courts  and  marble  terraces  with  the 
crowds  of  mandarins  and  dignitaries  gorgeously  arrayed 
that  filled  these  great  spaces  with  life  and  color  on  such 
occasions  as  when  the  Emperor  made  his  stately  prog- 
ress, through  gates  reserved  for  him  alone,  to  abase 
himself  in  ceremonial  self-depreciation  in  the  Temple 
of  Heaven  whose  high  dome  towers  far  to  the  south,  and 
the  glory  of  even  imperial  Rome  seems  insignificant  in 
comparison  with  this  exotic  splendor.  Later  we  visited 
the  Carls,  who  had  summoned  to  their  house  for  our 
benefit  various  dealers  in  jewels,  furs,  brocades  and 
other  beguiling  wares,  and  none  of  us  were  able  alto- 
gether to  resist  the  temptations  so  alluringly  spread 
before  us,  while  some  became  positively  reckless, 
especially  in  the  matter  of  beads ! 

Friday,  Dec.  23rd.  Peking. — Much  of  the  morning 
we  spent  at  Mrs.  Carl's  looking  at  the  ''ivory,  apes  and 
peacocks"  and  other  treasures  of  the  East  brought  for 
our  approval,  and  then  went  to  the  museum  in  the 
Forbidden  City.  Here  there  is  a  wealth  of  beautiful 
objects,  ceramics,  carvings,  ivories,  jades,  bronzes  and 
other  masterpieces  of  patient  skill  which  probably  has 
no  equal  anywhere  else  in  the  world,  and  it  is  evident 
that  Japanese  art  has  drawn  much  of  its  inspiration 
from  these  early  Chinese  sources.     Harriet  had  lunch  at 


94  Aloha  Around  the  World 

the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  and  I  went  to  the  Peabodys,  where 
there  was  a  delightful  gathering  including  the  Ruddocks 
and  Professor  and  Mrs.  Treat  of  Stanford  University- 
We  all  did  Christmas  shopping  later  in  the  afternoon 
and  discovered  some  quaint  streets  where  the  second- 
hand dealers  sold  brasses  and  similarly  fascinating 
things  in  infinite  variety  and  at  practically  any  price, 
for  we  found  it  fatal  to  mention  any  sum,  however  ridi- 
culously small  it  appeared,  in  connection  with  any  object 
unless  one  was  willing  to  walk  out  of  the  shop  as  its  pos- 
sessor. The  scenario  of  the  transaction  would  be  some- 
thing like  this.  "How  much  is  that?"  "Flifty  dolla." 
"Too  much,  don't  want  it."  "Velly  fine  piece,  how 
much  give  1"  " Two  dollars. "  "No  can  do,  give  floty- 
flive  dolla. M  "No,  two  dollars. M  "No  can  do,  give  floty 
dolla."  "No,  two  dollars."  "All  light,  can  do"— and 
you  are  landed  with  some  preposterous  piece  of  junk, 
feeling  that  like  the  parrot  you  have  talked  too  darned 
much,  unless  perchance  you  are  of  the  bargain-loving 
sex,  and  then  of  course  you  are  delighted.  Some  of  us 
went  to  the  American  Legation  to  tea  and  after  that 
the  charming  Mme.  Tang,  wife  of  the  Chinese  General  of 
that  name,  and  sister  of  the  Princess  Derling,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  F.  W.  Stevens,  and  some  others  came  to  the  hotel 
for  tea.  While  the  ladies  spent  the  evening  in  Christ- 
mas preparations  the  men  went  out  to  see  how  Peking 
looked  at  night  but  returned  early,  much  disgruntled, 
for  the  most  exciting  diversion  to  be  found  was  in  a 
dingy  resort  full  of  unpleasant  looking  celestials  who 
were  being  entertained  by  the  atrocious  cacophony  of 


The  Altar  of  Heaven 

To  this  triple,  circular  terrace  of  white  marble  the  Emperor  repaired  each  year  at  the 
winter  solstice  to  pray  alone,  with  only  the  dome  of  the  sky  above  him. 


Pavilion  Near  the  Temple  of  Heaven 

One  of  the  many  buildings  devoted  to  ceremonial  purposes  within  the  temple  enclosure. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust       95 

two  alleged  musicians  and  a  shrill  voiced  young  lady 
declaiming  an  interminable  account  of  what  we  were 
told  were  the  marital  troubles  of  one  of  the  early 
emperors.  The  most  diverting  feature  of  the  entire 
entertainment  were  the  attendants  who  went  about 
throwing  each  other  balls  of  hot  wet  towels  with  the 
utmost  precision  frcm  floor  to  balcony,  and  then  handed 
them  to  the  spectators  to  use  in  mopping  brows  brought 
to  fever  heat  by  the  excitement  of  the  performance. 

Saturday,  Dec.  24th.  Peking. — The  Northern  Palace, 
or  Winter  Palace  as  it  is  often  called,  like  the  palaces  of 
the  Forbidden  City  is  a  delight  to  the  eye  and  full  of 
suggestions  of  the  departed  splendor  of  China's  pleas- 
ure-loving rulers.  It  is  approached  over  the  famous 
marble  bridge  crossing  a  narrow  portion  of  the  extensive 
artificial  lake.  The  way  then  leads  steeply  upwards 
through  the  courts  of  several  temples  now  sadly  out  of 
repair  and  showing  evidences  of  the  senseless  spirit  of 
destruction  that  accompanied  the  Boxer  uprising,  to  the 
summit  of  the  hill  surmounted  by  the  so-called  Bottle 
Pagoda.  This  gets  its  name  from  its  curious  shape, 
indicating  the  Tibetan  origin  of  its  design  which  seems 
strangely  out  of  keeping  with  all  the  other  buildings  and 
temples.  From  the  platform  at  its  base  one  has  a 
wonderful  view  of  the  entire  city  with  the  gleaming 
roofs  of  its  many  gates  and  towers  shimmering  above 
the  immense  gray  sea  of  houses.  Along  the  descent 
leading  to  the  lake  on  the  other  side  of  the  hill,  are  the 
living  apartments  of  the  palace,  connected  by  quaint 
stairways  and  galleries,  and  with  a  long,  curving,  cov- 


96  Aloha  Around  the  World 

ered  veranda  following  the  line  of  the  water's  edge.  A 
roadway  leads  around  the  lake  to  its  upper  end,  past 
the  boat  house  holding  the  wreck  of  the  Emperor's 
great  barge,  another  group  of  temples  and  palace 
buildings,  and  to  the  glorious  nine-dragon  screen,  which 
is  a  wondrous  structure  of  yellow,  blue  and  green  tiling 
erected  to  ward  of!  evil  spirits  and  to  protect  from 
public  view  one  of  the  courtyards  used  by  the  ladies  of 
the  household.  Nearby  is  a  charming  group  of  apart- 
ments overlooking  a  miniature  lake  with  graceful 
marble  bridges  and  paths  winding  up  and  down  through 
masses  of  artificial  rock,  a  sort  of  Petit  Trianon  to  which 
the  Emperor  used  to  retire  when  he  wished  to  live  simply 
and  avoid  the  tiresome  ceremony  of  his  ordinary 
existence. 

At  luncheon  at  the  Ruddock's  we  found  many 
delightful  people,  including  the  British  Ambassador, 
Sir  Bealby  and  Lady  Alston,  the  Peabodys,  and  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Ray  Atherton.  Afterwards  we  spent  an 
interesting  hour  seeing  Mr.  Grosjean's  collections  in  his 
very  attractive  showrooms  and  then  returned  to  the 
hotel  in  time  to  make  the  final  preparations  for  the 
Christmas  celebration.  This  was  a  great  success.  We 
dined  by  ourselves  upstairs  and  Harriet  and  Fluff  had 
taken  an  immense  amount  of  trouble  to  make  the  table 
and  all  the  details  as  Christmas-like  as  possible.  There 
were  many  gifts  for  all  of  us,  some  actual  and  others  in 
the  form  of  chits  representing  objects  purchased  long 
before  and  left  behind  on  the  yacht  to  be  delivered  on 
our  return.     Downstairs  there  was  a  gay  and  crowded 


The  Temple  of  Heaven 


Placed  on  a  circular  base  of  white  marble  terraces,  with  its  triple  roof  lines  of  luminous, 
deep  blue  tiling,  surmounted  by  a  golden  ball,  this  is  a  building  of  surpassing  beauty  and 
interest. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust       97 

Christmas-Eve  party  to  which  some  of  us  descended 
later  and  discovered  that  modern  life  in  Peking  can  be 
no  less  diverting  than  the  Mings  and  Manchus  may 
have  found  it  in  earlier  days. 

Sunday,  Dec.  25th.  Christmas  Day,  and  the  100th  day 
of  the  trip.  Peking. — Like  all  the  preceding  days  we 
have  had  in  Peking,  today  has  been  delightfully  clear 
and  sunny,  and  it  has  been  the  pleasantest  of  all  because 
it  has  been  much  less  cold  and  windy.  Harriet  and 
Arthur  went  to  various  churches,  but  Fluff  had  attended 
an  early  service  and  accompanied  the  rest  of  us  to  the 
Temple  and  Altar  of  Heaven.  Under  a  perfect  sky  and 
in  the  bright  sunlight  these  marvelous  creations  of 
gleaming  marble  and  tiling  of  deepest  lapis  lazuli,  set 
in  the  wide  spaces  of  the  great  enclosure  girdled  by  a 
wall  three  miles  around,  made  an  ineffaceable  impres- 
sion. But  it  is  tragic  to  see  the  damage  that  the  lack 
of  all  care  for  their  preservation  during  the  last  twenty 
years  has  already  wrought,  and  to  realize  that  even  a 
few  more  years  of  similar  neglect  will  bring  about  injury 
beyond  repair.  On  the  way  back  we  plumped  into  the 
middle  of  a  very  elaborate  funeral  proceeding  down 
Chien-Men  Street.  It  was  a  scene  of  extraordinary 
interest,  the  sidewalks  densely  packed  with  onlookers 
and  wayfarers  afoot  and  in  all  sorts  of  conveyances, 
while  the  procession,  which  resembled  a  circus  parade 
rather  than  an  evidence  of  mourning,  made  its  way 
through  the  motley  crowd.  There  were  many  bearers 
of  banners  and  decorations  bright  with  scarlet  and 
tinsel,  children  in  snowy  mourning  robes  carried  white 


98  Aloha  Around  the  World 

feathery  brooms  to  sweep  away  evil  spirits,  and  older 
attendants  bore  gilded  spears  and  other  weapons  to 
attack  any  lurking  devils.  There  was  the  wailing  of  the 
mourners  and  the  sound  of  weird  musical  instruments, 
perforated  discs  of  paper  to  represent  money  were  flung 
into  the  air  in  handfuls  to  appease  the  spirits,  replicas 
made  of  paper  and  other  materials  representing  food  and 
all  the  possessions  of  the  deceased,  including  huge 
sheaves  of  silver  paper,  all  to  be  burned  at  the  grave- 
side were  carried  by,  and  the  elderly  children  of  the 
departed,  evidently  an  old  dame  of  some  consequence, 
stopped  from  time  to  time  in  their  wailing  progress 
before  the  hearse  to  kneel  and  accept  offerings  of  tea  for 
their  refreshment  presented  by  members  of  the  crowd. 
Finally  came  the  catafalque,  a  most  splendiferous  affair 
of  red  and  gold  supported  on  the  shoulders  of  sixty-two 
bearers  and  followed  by  white  palanquins  from  whose 
veiled  interiors  came  more  sounds  of  woe.  It  was  a 
wonderful  piece  of  luck  to  have  seen  such  a  spectacle,  for 
it  was  a  number  one  funeral  and  gave  us  one  of  the  most 
interesting  glimpses  of  Chinese  life  and  customs  we  have 
had.  When  the  crowds  following  in  the  wake  of  the 
cortege  had  left  the  way  clear  enough  for  our  rickshaws 
to  squirm  through  we  hurried  on  to  the  Carls'  where  a 
great  bowl  of  eggnogg,  smooth  and  delicious,  but  with 
insidious  perils  lurking  in  the  cup,  was  awaiting  us, 
and  then  took  them  back  to  the  hotel  for  lunch.  Later 
the  others  went  to  the  Rockefeller  buildings  while 
Harold  Egleston  and  I  climbed  Coal  Hill,  whose  summit 
is  graced  by  three  charming  pagodas,  while  at  its  base 


Funeral  Procession 

A  number  one  funeral  procession  in  Peking  is  a  gorgeous  spectacle.     The  catafalque  in  the 
picture  was  a  splendid  affair  of  scarlet  and  gold  requiring  sixty-two  bearers  to  carry  it. 


Hillside  Near  Pa-Ta-Chu 


Chairs  had  to  be  used  by  the  ladies  to  reach  the  ancient  Buddhist  temple  in  the  hills  now 
occupied  by  Mr.  Thomas  as  a  country  house. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust        99 

one  still  may  see  the  tree  from  which  the  last  of  the 
Ming  emperors  hanged  himself  in  despair  when  the 
conquering  Manchus  could  no  longer  be  resisted.  The 
view  from  the  topmost  pavilion  with  the  slanting  rays 
of  the  afternoon  sun  striking  the  golden  roofs  of  the 
dwellings  of  the  Son  of  Heaven  in  the  Purple  City,  and 
lighting  up  the  vast  extent  of  the  ancient  capital  to  the 
very  limits  of  its  encircling  walls  was  one  of  the  finest 
things  we  have  seen  in  this  place  so  full  of  overpowering 
impressions.  On  the  way  back  we  stopped  at  an  out  of 
the  way  temple  with  an  elaborate  prayer  wheel  and  full 
of  many  fine  pieces  of  carving  and  gilding,  but  very 
dusty  and  gloomy  and  neglected  looking,  and  then 
joined  the  others  for  tea  at  Mme.  Tang's  where  we 
met  the  General,  her  husband,  and  a  number  of 
Chinese  and  foreign  guests.  Tomorrow  we  go  to  the 
Great  Wall  and  are  hoping  for  a  warm  and  clear  day  for 
we  have  been  warned  that  it  is  likely  to  be  very  cold  and 
windy  along  this  ancient  mountain  fastness. 

Monday y  Dec.  26th.  Peking. — Going  to  the  Great 
Wall  requires  an  early  start,  and  at  this  season  it  means 
rising  before  dawn,  even  though  our  hotel  is  on  Ch'ang- 
an,  which  means  "The  Street  of  Eternal  Repose,"  but 
this  has  the  compensation  of  affording  an  opportunity 
of  seeing  the  Peking  sunrise  from  the  very  start.  The 
dust-laden  atmosphere  intensifies  all  the  coloring  and 
the  rising  sun  is  always  a  fiery  ball  with  a  background 
of  deepest  crimson.  From  our  windows  high  up  and 
overlooking  the  Chinese  city  it  is  wonderful  to  see  the 
rosy  glow  slowly  deepening  and  the  distant  temples  and 


ioo  Aloha  Around  the  World 

towers  gradually  emerging  from  the  violet  haze  that 
hangs  over  the  vast  expanse  of  roofs,  till  even  the  shad- 
owy dome  of  the  Temple  of  Heaven  becomes  a  clear-cut 
silhouette  against  the  slowly  brightening  sky.  In  the 
street  below  a  string  of  camels  shuffles  through  the  dust, 
and  hoary  Peking,  gray  with  age,  has  seen  another  dawn. 
It  was  a  long  motor  ride  to  the  Hsi-chih-men  station 
at  the  northwest  corner  of  the  Tartar  City,  just  outside 
the  gate  of  that  name.  A  little  beyond  the  first  station 
one  passes  the  very  ugly  buildings  of  the  Indemnity 
College  supported  by  the  portion  of  the  Boxer  in- 
demnity unexpended  and  returned  to  China  by  the 
United  States.  Twenty-five  miles  from  Peking  there  is 
a  long  wait  at  Nankow,  famous  for  its  persimmons  and 
because  it  is  the  starting  point  for  the  journey  on  mule- 
back  to  the  Ming  tombs.  Standing  on  the  station 
platform  was  a  dispirited  line  of  six  or  seven  hard-boiled 
looking  citizens  with  placards  around  their  necks 
announcing  that  they  were  thus  compelled  to  stand 
exposed  to  public  gaze  as  a  punishment  for  minor 
offenses  such  as  petty  thievery.  A  mogul  locomotive 
was  attached  to  the  rear  of  the  train,  and  over  a  splendid 
roadbed  quite  out  of  keeping  with  the  primitive  car  in 
which  we  were  seated,  we  were  slowly  pushed  up  the 
grade  eleven  miles  further  to  Ching  Lieng  Chiao.  The 
road,  which  is  planned  ultimately  to  connect  across  the 
Gobi  Desert  with  the  trans-Siberian  line,  now  passes 
through  Kalgan  and  extends  as  far  as  Fengchen  in 
northwestern  Shan-si,  and  is  the  work  of  a  Chinese 
engineer,  Mr.  Yeme  T'ien  Yao,  a  graduate  of  Yale.     On 


The  Wall 

Begun  two  hundred  years  B.C.  by  the  Emperor  Shih-Huang  as  a  protection  against  the 
Mongols,  the  Great  Wall  has  a  length  of  about  1700  miles. 


Boys  at  the  Wall 

A  good-natured  crowd,  that  were  eager  to  act  as  guides  or  to  provide  the  visitor  with  arrow- 
heads, coins,  or  other  trinkets  of  "  Mongolian"  origin. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust      101 

either  side  the  hills  closed  in  and  for  much  of  the  dis- 
tance the  railroad  followed  the  course  of  the  ancient 
caravan  track  up  the  valley  and  we  could  see  long  pack 
trains  of  donkeys,  Mongolian  ponies,  and  camels  car- 
rying their  burdens  along  this  famous  pathway  as  they 
have  done  for  tens  of  centuries.  Even  before  reaching 
the  final  station  we  had  seen  the  great  wall  winding  over 
the  distant  hills,  and  it  was  only  a  short  up-hill  walk  to 
the  caravan  gate.  Nearby  were  the  steps  by  which  the 
wall  may  be  climbed,  and  as  we  walked  along  its  top 
we  began  to  realize  the  stupendous  nature  of  this  most 
astonishing  product  of  human  industry.  Twenty  to 
thirty  feet  high  and  twelve  feet  wide  at  its  summit, 
it  was  begun  by  Shih-Huang  the  first  emperor  of 
the  Chin  dynasty  two  hundred  years  B.C.,  and  runs 
its  serpentine  course  regardless  of  all  obstacles  over  the 
highest  hills  and  down  the  deepest  ravines,  a  massive 
barrier  of  masonry  seventeen  hundred  miles  in  length; 
the  audacity  of  the  conception  and  the  incredible  labor 
required  in  its  execution  making  all  the  other  great 
examples  of  man's  activity  seem  small  by  comparison. 
The  return  journey  was  slow  and  tedious  but  we  reached 
the  hotel  at  about  six-thirty  feeling  more  impressed  than 
by  anything  else  we  have  seen  so  far.  Later  we  went 
to  a  dance  given  by  the  British  Minister,  Sir  Bealby 
Alston,  in  the  interesting  legation  building  which  was 
originally  a  princely  palace  and  still  retains  an  aura  of 
its  former  splendor. 

Tuesday,  Dec.  2jih.     Peking. — Together  with  Miss 
Carl  we  motored  over  the  historic  road  to  the  Summer 


102  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Palace,  passing  on  the  way  through  the  grounds  of  the 
Indemnity  College,  the  buildings  of  which  though  no 
doubt  very  useful  seem  still  more  awful  in  appearance 
on  a  nearer  view  than  when  seen  from  a  distance.  The 
palace  gardens  and  buildings  in  their  extent  and  beauty 
demonstrated  again  the  artistic  sense  and  the  limitless 
resources  of  the  Chinese  rulers,  in  this  case  exemplified 
by  that  remarkable  old  lady  the  late  Dowager  Empress 
Hsi-Tai-Hou  who  died  in  1908.  The  present  buildings 
were  erected  by  her  in  1875  to  replace  the  former 
palaces  destroyed  by  the  British  in  i860  as  a  punish- 
ment for  the  treacherous  imprisonment  of  the  com- 
mission under  Sir  Harry  Parkes  engaged  in  arranging 
a  peace  treaty  between  the  Chinese  and  Franco-British 
armies.  The  many  villas  and  halls  cover  the  eastern 
shore  of  an  artificial  lake  said  to  be  ten  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  rise  on  terraces  to  the  summit  of  an 
eminence  from  which  there  is  a  charming  view  of  all 
the  buildings  and  of  the  more  distant  hills  with  many 
pagodas  and  temples.  Miss  Carl's  unique  experience 
in  having  spent  many  months  in  the  palace  as  the 
guest  of  the  "Old  Buddha"  while  painting  her  portrait 
made  her  a  most  delightful  guide,  and  she  showed  us 
and  told  us  many  things  that  remain  unknown  to  the 
ordinary  visitor.  In  some  of  the  rooms  one  could  see 
the  furniture  and  hangings  used  by  the  Empress  and 
it  was  easy  to  visualize  the  extraordinary  charm  that 
must  have  pervaded  this  fairyland  of  oriental  beauty 
when  it  was  alive  with  the  splendors  of  a  court  whose 
magnificence  and  formality  have  never  been  surpassed. 


The  Wall 

The  splendid  masonry  of  the  wall  may  be  seen  in  this  view  through  an  arch  of 
one  of  the  watch  towers.  These  were  built  every  few  hundred  yards  along  its 
entire  length. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust      103 

After  a  delightful  drive  through  the  hills  we  reached 
Pa-Ta-Chu  where  donkeys  and  chairs  were  waiting  to 
carry  us  up  a  steep  and  rocky  path  to  an  old  Buddhist 
temple  founded  four  hundred  years  B.C.,  and  now  the 
country  house  of  Mr.  J.  A.  Thomas,  the  banker,  who 
had  invited  us  to  lunch.  From  its  terraces  there  were 
superb  views  of  the  plain  below,  and  it  was  a  unique 
experience  to  be  consuming  deliciously  cooked  Siberian 
rabchicks  in  these  surroundings,  hoary  with  antiquity, 
and  also  interesting  because  during  the  Boxer  uprising 
they  served  as  headquarters  for  the  insurgent  leaders. 
Minister  and  Mrs.  Schurman  had  invited  us  to  dinner 
in  the  American  legation  where  we  met  many  members 
of  the  diplomatic  corps  and  felt  we  had  great  reason 
to  be  proud  of  our  country's  representative  in  Peking. 
Wednesday,  Dec.  28th.  Peking. — Even  old  and 
hardened  Pekingese  admitted  that  today  was  cold  and 
windy.  To  us  it  seemed  terrific,  dust  filled  the  air, 
noses,  and  eyes  and  made  it  seem  hopeless  to  keep  faces, 
hands,  or  linen  clean.  Peter,  Harold  and  I  made  a  long 
pilgrimage  to  the  temples  in  the  northeastern  corner  of 
the  city  and  were  rewarded  by  seeing  an  interesting 
service  in  the  Lama  temple,  Yung-Ho-Kung,  or  Palace 
of  Eternal  Harmony.  There  were  tapers  before  the 
altar,  acolytes  intoned  responses  to  the  chanting  of  the 
priest  who  was  robed  in  flowing  vestments  and  went 
through  gestures  not  unlike  crossing  himself;  a  mixture 
of  milk  and  water  was  given  to  each  worshipper  in  a 
small  cup,  and  there  were  genuflections  before  the 
altar,  but  the  whole  temple  and  all  the  appurtenances  of 


104  Aloha  Around  the  World 

worship  were  dusty  and  dingy  and  the  robes  of  the 
youthful  neophytes  were  faded  and  patched.  In  one 
temple  building  was  a  very  ugly  standing  figure  of 
Buddha  eighty  feet  high.  Several  hundred  Lamas  live 
in  the  temple  buildings,  most  of  them  Mongols,  though 
there  are  a  few  Tibetans  and  Chinese  among  the  num- 
ber, and  there  is  a  seminary  in  which  a  large  number  of 
boys  are  being  trained  for  the  priesthood.  The  grounds 
of  the  Temple  of  Confucius  contain  many  spreading 
1 '  sung  "  trees  said  to  be  centuries  old  and  some  fine  stone 
monuments  recording  the  names  of  ancient  scholars  of 
repute.  Inside  one  of  the  gates  are  several  drum-like 
blocks  of  black  stone  showing  inscriptions  recording  the 
exploits  of  one  of  the  early  emperors,  and  alleged  to  have 
been  fashioned  in  827  B.C.  Inside  of  the  temple  instead 
of  the  usual  figures  of  various  deities,  one  sees  over  the 
altars  only  the  spirit  tablets  of  Confucius  and  a  number 
of  other  sages  and  philosophers.  That  of  Confucius 
is  a  tablet  of  vermilion  lacquer  about  three  feet  long 
by  six  inches  wide  set  in  a  shrine  of  the  same  color,  and 
bearing  an  inscription  written  by  the  emperor  K'-Ang 
Hsi  himself.  In  the  courtyard  of  the  nearby  Hall  of 
Classics  are  the  large  stone  tablets  inscribed  with  the 
authorized  text  of  the  "Thirteen  Classics,"  but  the  most 
striking  object  here  is  the  marvelous  pai-lou  at  the 
entrance  which  is  a  masterpiece  of  white,  red,  green, 
and  yellow  porcelain  set  on  a  base  of  white  marble. 
The  others  entertained  quite  a  large  tiffin  party  at  the 
hotel,  but  we  three  inspected  the  hospitable  Peking 
Club  and  then  lunched  at  the  Wagon-Lits.     Afterwards 


WJf'-    8 


a    . 
S3 


fc!5 


.s  # 


8  S 


3    o 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust      105 

some  of  the  party  visited  General  Munthe  to  see  his 
fine  collections,  but  Harold  and  I  poked  around  in  the 
Mongolian  market  and  the  street  fair  at  Lungfu-Ssu 
which  is  held  twice  a  month.  Great  quantities  of  wares 
of  all  sorts  were  for  sale  on  stands,  most  of  the  articles 
appearing  to  be  of  a  kind  more  likely  to  appeal  to  foreign 
curio  hunters  than  to  the  Chinese,  but  though  the 
place  was  crowded  and  business  seemed  to  be  brisk  we 
were  almost  the  only  non-orientals  in  sight.  After  a 
brief  and  icy  walk  on  the  city  walls  in  the  legation 
quarter,  from  which  one  gets  a  fine  view  of  the  city,  we 
returned  in  time  to  join  the  others  at  Miss  Carl's  for  tea. 
Our  curiosity  regarding  Chinese  food  was  well  gratified 
at  a  dinner  party  given  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frederick  W. 
Stevens  at  a  famous  native  restaurant,  the  party  includ- 
ing a  number  of  old  and  new  acquaintances,  one  of  them 
being  Miss  Dickinson,  the  daughter  of  Dr.  Dickinson  of 
Brooklyn.  After  threading  dark  passages,  turning 
many  corners  and  passing  through  several  courtyards, 
we  reached  the  dining  room  and  slowly  worked  our  way 
through  the  following  menu : — 

Chinese  Dinner 

Fu    Ch'aung    Kwan 

Lungfu        Ssu        Hutung,         Peking. 

December  28th,  192 1. 


Shou  Sing 

(Rice  wine) 

Kan  Kuo 

(Salted  nuts) 

Ping  Kuo 

(Apples) 

YaLi 

(Pears) 

P'u  T'ae 

(Grapes) 

Shih  Tze 

(Persimmons) 

106 


Aloha  Around  the  World 


i  Tsao  Ya  P'ien 

(Sliced  cold  Peking  duck) 

2  Hsia  Jen  Wen  Tou 

(Cold  Shrimps  and  peas) 

3  Chiang  Chih 

(Pickled  chicken) 

4  Ya  Chong 

(Duck's  feet) 

5  Ya  Kan 

(Salted  ducks'  gizzards) 

6  Ch'in  Tzai  Hsia  Tze 

(Pickled  celery  and  shrimps) 

7  Soon  Hwa 

(Ancient  eggs) 

8  Wu  Shan  Ch'ong 

(Chinese  sausage) 

I    YenTsai 

(Sea  weed  soup) 

II    YuCh'ih 

(Shark  fins  de  luxe) 

III    ChiaLiChih 

(Fried  chicken) 

Kao  Li  Hsia  Jen 

(Fried    shrimps    in    Korean 

style) 

Tsao  Wei  Tong  Sung 

(Fried   bamboo   shoots,  wine 

sauce) 

Ch'Uan  Tzu  Sun 

(Fried  bamboo  marrow,  white 

gravy) 

IV    Pa  Pao  Tong  Yuan 

(Steamed  rice  and  fruit  balls) 

V    I'uoFeiYa 

(Roasted  Peking  duck) 

Ho  Yeh  Ping 

(Lotus  leaf  cakes) 

VI    ChiaTuJen 

(Fried  sheep  stomach) 

Tong  T'zu  Yu  Pien 

(Fried  sweet  fish) 

Chia  Chin 

(Fried  duck  livers) 

Chuan  Pao  Yu 

(Fried  fish  with  wine  gravy) 

VII    Tong  Sun  Hsuie  Chiao  (Bamboo      shoot      dumpling 

served  in  steam  boiler) 
VIII    Chu  Hwa  Kow  (Steam  boiler  containing  fish, 

meat  and  vegetables) 
Hweh  T'uan  Pai  Tsai  (Ham  and  cabbage  soup) 
Yu  Lang  P'ien  (Duck  soup) 

IX    Pa  Pao  Fan  (Steamed  sweet  rice  and  fruit) 

Out  of  deference  to  our  untutored  palates  Mr.  Stevens 
had  reduced  the  list  of  courses  from  the  eighteen  usually 
served  at  a  formal  Chinese  dinner  to  the  nine  recorded. 


Korean  Cold  and  Peking  Dust       107 

The  dishes  seemed  more  substantial  and  strongly- 
seasoned  than  the  Japanese  food  and  had  the  additional 
merit  of  being  served  very  hot,  in  a  number  of  cases 
from  blazing  chafing  dishes  on  the  table.  But  it  must 
be  admitted  that  many  of  the  delicacies  were  more 
adapted  to  oriental  than  occidental  powers  of  digestion 
and  I  am  waiting  with  interest  not  unmixed  with  a 
slight  touch  of  anxiety  to  see  what  the  effect  will  be  on 
the  alimentary  tracts  of  the  various  members  of  our 
little  family. 

Thursday,  Dec.  2Qth.  Peking. — After  yesterday's 
cold  and  gusty  winds  it  was  an  agreeable  change  to 
find  that  our  last  day  in  Peking  was  to  be  quite  warm 
and  the  air  comparatively  free  from  dust.  During  the 
forenoon  we  scattered,  some  to  satisfy  individual  crav- 
ings for  more  jade  or  beads,  others  to  go  to  the  observ- 
atory. I  spent  the  morning  at  the  Rockefeller  Hospital 
with  McLean  and  was  glad  to  see  the  Melleneys,  whom  I 
had  not  met  on  my  previous  visit,  and  learned  something 
more  of  the  interesting  work  on  kala  azar  that  Dr. 
Young  is  doing.  The  more  one  sees  of  this  institution 
the  more  one  is  impressed  by  its  great  opportunities  and 
the  splendid  way  in  equipment  and  staff  it  is  prepared 
to  meet  them.  At  luncheon  there  was  quite  a  party, 
including  Sir  Bealby  and  Lady  Alston  and  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Roy  Chapman  Andrews.  The  latter  are  preparing  for 
their  expedition  into  northern  Mongolia,  and  took  us  to 
see  their  outfit  as  well  as  some  fine  trophies  of  sheep  and 
wapiti  that  Mr.  Andrews  has  just  brought  back  from  a 
scouting  trip.     They  are  living  in  the  large  and  very 


108  Aloha  Around  the  World 

beautiful  house  formerly  occupied  by  Dr.  Morrison,  for 
whom  one  of  the  principal  streets  in  Peking  was  named, 
and  have  furnished  it  most  attractively.  The  living 
room  is  entered  through  a  circular  moon  door  in  a  large 
screen  of  teak  wood  that  is  said  to  be  one  of  the  finest 
examples  of  carving  in  Peking.  Later,  Jake,  Fluff,  and 
I  went  with  Mr.  Andrews  and  Captain  Gillies  to  the 
observatory.  This  was  erected  by  Kublai  Khan  in  1279 
and  the  magnificent  bronze  armillary  spheres,  astro- 
labes, and  other  astronomical  apparatus  were  con- 
structed under  the  direction  of  the  Jesuits  while  they 
were  in  charge  of  the  observatory  from  1661  to  1721. 
The  pieces  looted  by  the  Germans  in  1900  have  just 
been  returned  in  accordance  with  one  of  the  provisions 
of  the  Versailles  treaty  and  replaced  in  their  old  posi- 
tions. The  view  of  the  walls  and  of  the  city's  general 
arrangement  from  this  point  is  unusually  fine,  as  one 
also  gets  some  idea  of  the  outlying  country. 

Peking  has  been  a  delightful  revelation  of  interest, 
charm,  and  hospitality,  and  we  are  leaving  with  much 
regret  what  is  certainly  one  of  the  world's  most  fasci- 
nating cities.  We  were  also  sorry  to  part  with  Harold 
Egleston  who  had  to  take  an  earlier  train  on  his  way 
back  to  Japan,  for  he  has  been  a  very  welcome  addition 
to  our  party.  At  the  station  we  found  the  Carls  who 
have  done  so  much  for  us  here,  waiting  to  bid  us  fare- 
well, and  at  ten  o'clock  we  drew  out  and  started  on  the 
thirty-six  hour  trip  to  Hankow. 


CHAPTER  V 

DOWN  THE  YANGTZE  AND  TO  THE  CITY  OF  DREADFUL 

NIGHT 

Friday,  Dec.  30th.  Peking  to  Hankow. — The  Peking 
Hankow  line  is  owned  and  operated  by  the  Chinese 
Government  but  much  of  the  equipment  is  of  Belgian 
construction  including  the  locomotives,  which  are  of  the 
rather  inadequate  looking  type  one  is  accustomed  to 
see  on  some  of  the  continental  roads.  Although  we  were 
on  one  of  the  bi-weekly  trains  de  luxe,  our  sleeping  car 
was  old  and  shabby,  with  the  washing  facilities  very 
primitive,  but  the  double  berth  compartments  were 
fairly  comfortable  and  we  all  had  a  good  night.  The 
dining  car  was  superior  to  the  others  and  the  meals  were 
well  served  by  attentive  boys  in  spotless  stiffly  starched 
white  jackets  with  big  brass  buttons,  and  the  journey 
is  not  proving  the  hardship  we  had  been  led  to  antici- 
pate. During  the  forenoon  the  country  again  reminded 
one  strongly  of  Arizona,  with  distant,  wrinkly  hills  and  a 
foreground  of  brown  plains  dotted  with  groups  of  adobe 
houses,  while  from  a  distance  the  drivers  of  the  in- 
numerable donkeys  might  well  have  been  taken  for 
Navajos  with  their  burros,  but  soon  we  began  to  pass 
towns  with  high,  crenelated,  mud  walls  and  massive 

stone  gates,  and  on  the  station  platforms  the  usual 

109 


no  Aloha  Around  the  World 

crowds  of  black-uniformed  police  officials  and  detach- 
ments of  soldiers  in  gray  with  fixed  bayonets  strolled  up 
and  down.  Gradually  it  became  warmer,  the  car 
windows  were  no  longer  frost-coated  and  the  fields 
showed  a  faint  shimmer  of  green  from  the  sprouting 
crops.  Flocks  of  sheep  were  not  infrequent  and  occa- 
sionally even  a  cow  or  two  could  be  seen  at  large — un- 
accustomed features  so  far  in  the  Chinese  landscape. 
At  about  three  o'clock  we  crossed  the  Huang-Ho  on  an 
iron  trestle  two  miles  long,  and  saw  some  junks  with 
blue-edged,  bat-wing  sails  moving  slowly  over  the 
muddy  waters  of  this  the  famous  Yellow  River. 

Saturday,  Dec.  jist.  Hankow. — It  was  much  warmer 
when  we  awoke  and  there  was  no  doubt  that  we  had 
left  the  cold  weather  behind  for  the  fields  were  full  of 
growing  things  and  there  were  green  trees  beside  the 
streams.  The  train  arrived  at  Ta-chi-men  station  ten 
minutes  ahead  of  time  and  Fluff's  friends,  Miss  Dexter 
and  Mrs.  Roots,  Mr.  Gale,  the  Salt  Controller,  Mr. 
Folger,  and  several  others  were  waiting  to  receive  us. 
It  seemed  simpler  to  spend  the  night  on  the  steamer 
Tatung  which  is  to  take  us  down  the  river  tomorrow, 
rather  than  to  go  to  the  hotel  so  we  left  the  luggage  on 
board  and  then  were  taken  in  a  launch  to  see  the  harbor. 
Hankow,  Wu  Chang,  and  Han  Yang  are  situated  at  the 
junction  of  the  Yangtze  and  Han  Rivers  and  form  a 
manufacturing  and  commercial  center  with  a  combined 
population  of  over  a  million,  and  of  great  importance, 
since  it  is  the  port  for  the  whole  of  Central  China  and 
though  six  hundred  miles  from  Shanghai  the  harbor 


W       £ 


S5 

o 

> 

O 

H 

a 

w 

<r. 

en 

"Z 

Q 

D 

N 

C/2 

■•J 
H 

c 

Down  the  Yangtze  m 

bustles  with  activity.  Countless  junks,  large  and  small, 
as  well  as  many  steamers  were  taking  on  or  discharging 
cargo  and  sailing  about  in  all  directions.  It  had  been 
planned  for  us  to  visit  the  Han  Yang  Iron  Works  and 
have  tiffin  there  but  we  decided  not  to  go  and  lunched 
at  the  hotel  instead.  The  foreign  quarter  is  divided 
into  British,  French,  Japanese,  and  Russian  concessions 
which  are  separately  controlled  and  policed  by  the  re- 
spective countries,  and  are  built  up  with  fine  looking 
modern  business  blocks,  banks,  and  residences  that  do 
not  in  the  least  suggest  that  one  is  in  the  heart  of  China. 
An  interest  in  horse-flesh  is  the  chief  relaxation  of  the 
foreign  residents  and  Mr.  Gale  took  us  to  the  race-track 
which  has  a  fine  club  house,  golf  course,  tennis  courts, 
ballroom,  and  swimming  pool.  While  the  others  went 
for  a  drive  Peter  and  I  walked  through  some  of  the 
Chinese  streets  which  as  usual  were  teeming  with  orien- 
tal sights,  sounds,  and  smells,  especially  the  latter. 
After  tea  at  the  country  club  we  returned  to  the  boat  to 
watch  the  junks  go  by  and  then  had  dinner  at  the 
Terminus  Hotel.  Fluff  spent  the  day  in  Wu  Chang  with 
her  friends  of  the  American  Church  Mission  but  aban- 
doned her  plan  of  spending  the  night  there  on  learning 
that  the  river  sometimes  at  short  notice  becomes  so 
rough  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  cross,  so  she  and 
William  accepted  an  invitation  to  dine  with  Bishop  and 
Mrs.  Roots  at  whose  house  she  spent  the  night.  Aside 
from  the  life  on  the  river,  Hankow  has  little  to  attract 
the  visitor  and  appears  to  deserve  its  nickname  of  the 
Chicago  of  China,  but  the  older  city  Wu  Chang  with  a 


ii2  Aloha  Around  the  World 

history  of  over  2000  years  is  purely  Chinese  and  Fluff 
found  it  full  of  interest. 

Sunday,  Jan.  1,  IQ22.  Yangtze  River. — The  New 
Year  started  with  bright  sunshine  and  Fluff  and  William 
went  to  early  church  but  the  rest  of  us  did  not  leave  the 
ship  until  after  breakfast.  Then  Peter,  William,  and  I 
walked  through  the  Chinese  quarter  and  entered  a 
maze  of  narrow  alleys  and  crowded  streets  that  beggar 
description  for  repulsive  sights  and  smells.  After  the 
immaculate  neatness  of  even  the  meanest  streets  in 
Japan  it  is  a  great  contrast  to  come  upon  these  evi- 
dences of  a  total  absence  of  even  the  most  rudimentary 
notions  of  cleanliness  and  decency.  We  have  been 
struck  by  the  amount  of  eating  that  is  constantly  going 
on.  Everywhere  are  street  stalls  or  full -sized  shops 
where  cooked  food  is  sold  and  the  big,  black  kettles 
steaming  with  extraordinary  looking,  messes  are  always  J 
surrounded  by  eager  groups  of  bonjuivants  whose  ap-  JjJ. 
pearance  has  no  suggestion  of  malnutrition.  There 
seems  to  be  no  lack  of  food  or  of  money  with  which  to 
purchase  it,  such  as  it  is,  but  the  raw  materials  exposed 
for  sale  in  the  busy  markets  we  passed  this  morning 
are  such  as  to  jar  even  susceptibilities  somewhat  forti- 
fied by  the  experiences  a  medical  education  entails. 
There  was  quite  a  crowd  to  see  us  off,  and  at  eleven  we 
swung  into  the  stream  and  started  on  the  five  hundred 
mile  run  to  Nanking,  down  one  of  the  three  greatest 
rivers  of  the  world.  The  scenery  has  been  disappoint- 
ing, for  the  banks  for  the  most  part  are  flat  and  but  few 
settlements  are  to  be  seen,  but  the  boat  is  comfortable, 


Down  the  Yangtze  113 

the  meals  are  excellent,  and  the  captain  is  very  agree- 
able. Our  African  explorers  say  that  the  river  reminds 
them  strongly  of  the  Nile.  The  water  just  now  is  very 
low,  in  fact  at  times  the  river  is  forty  feet  higher  than 
at  present,  and  there  are  numerous  bars,  so  that  frequent 
sounding  is  necessary  and  the  navigation  is  something 
like  what  it  must  have  been  on  the  Mississippi  in  the 
famous  days  when  the  Robert  E.  Lee  used  to  race  the 
Natchez,  and  the  river  pilots  became  popular  heroes  for 
their  daring  in  taking  chances  over  the  shifting  shoals. 
One  bar  we  passed  this  afternoon  had  less  than  ten  feet 
of  water  over  it  and  the  Tatung  draws  nine ;  and  just 
as  we  sat  down  to  dinner  there  was  a  good  deal  of 
excitement  for  we  ran  aground  and  stuck  fast  for  a 
while  but  finally  managed  to  pull  off  again  after  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  of  suspense.  At  nine-fifteen  we 
anchored  for  the  night  off  the  town  of  Wu  Sue,  twenty- 
seven  miles  above  Kiu  Kiang,  which  is  the  starting 
point  for  Ku  Ling,  a  favorite  summer  resort  for  the 
missionaries. 

Monday,  Jan.  2nd.  Yangtze  River. — The  Tatung 
got  under  way  early  and  by  nine  o'clock  had  reached 
the  landing  at  Kiu  Kiang.  This  is  famous  for  its 
pottery  but  though  Fluff  tried  hard  she  did  not  find 
much  that  seemed  worth  taking  away,  for  most  of  the 
patterns  were  unattractive  and  the  quality  was  of  the 
cheapest.  A  fellow  passenger,  Mrs.  Ball,  who  has  lived 
here  for  several  years  was  our  guide  through  the  Chinese 
quarter  which  was  full  of  local  color  and  odors,  and  took 

us  to  a  silversmith  who  had  some  good  work  to  show, 
s 


H4  Aloha  Around  the  World 

At  ten-thirty  we  started  on  down  the  river,  which  to- 
day has  entered  a  more  hilly  region  with  high  moun- 
tains in  the  distance  and  occasionally  considerable 
elevations  along  the  shore.  One  high  rocky  islet  we 
passed  is  called  the  Little  Orphan  and  is  the  most 
picturesque  thing  we  have  seen  on  the  river.  In  places 
it  has  been  quite  narrow  and  villages  have  become  more 
numerous,  but  the  immediate  neighborhood  of  the 
Yangtze  is  much  less  densely  populated  than  we  had 
expected  and  scenically  I  think  it  has  been  a  disappoint- 
ment to  all  of  us. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  3rd.  Nanking. — In  the  early  morning 
light  countless  myriads  of  wild  ducks  darkened  the 
yellow  surface  of  the  river  or  flew  in  clouds  ahead  of  our 
course  and  aroused  the  sporting  instincts  of  several 
members  of  the  party.  The  mountains  on  the  south 
shore  seemed  to  draw  nearer,  more  villages  appeared, 
and  the  river  banks  became  more  interesting,  but  as  we 
approached  Nanking  the  most  attractive  sight  of  all 
was  Aloha  lying  quietly  at  anchor  all  ready  to  receive 
her  truant  passengers  again.  A  little  before  twelve  we 
were  on  board  and  never  had  we  appreciated  the  com- 
fort and  luxury  of  our  floating  home  so  much  as  after 
this  absence  of  seventeen  days.  The  passage  from 
Fusan  to  Shanghai  had  been  smooth  and  uneventful 
and  everyone  was  well  on  board.  After  lunch,  the  best 
we  have  had  for  many  days,  we  went  ashore,  Arthur 
and  Harriet  to  visit  the  University  and  the  Gin  Ling 
Girls  College  in  the  palace  of  the  late  Li-Hung-Chang, 
and  the  rest  of  us  to  see  the  Ming  Tombs.    Though 


Down  the  Yangtze  115 

once  the  capital  of  China  as  the  name  Nanking  or 
"Southern  Capital "  indicates,  and  laid  out  on  a  magni- 
ficent scale,  the  city  shows  no  vestige  of  its  former 
grandeur,  except  perhaps  its  massive  walls  thirty  to 
fifty  feet  in  height  and  said  to  be  seven  or  eight  miles  in 
total  length.  It  is  a  long  drive  from  the  waterfront  to 
the  city  proper,  but  once  there  one  is  plunged  at  once 
into  the  usual  labyrinth  of  narrow  streets,  swarming 
with  activity  and  full  of  interest.  We  passed  through 
the  ruins  of  the  inner  city  laid  waste  by  the  Taepings 
in  1853  and  never  rebuilt,  and  left  the  city  through  its 
northeastern  gate.  The  avenue  of  stone  figures  of  men 
and  animals  forming  the  approach  to  the  tombs  begins 
a  mile  or  two  beyond,  and  the  grotesque  caricatures 
of  camels,  lions,  elephants,  and  horses  in  pairs  placed 
opposite  each  other  and  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  height  form 
a  droll  menagerie.  The  tomb  itself,  though  it  marks 
the  burial  place  of  Tai-tsu  the  first  Ming  emperor  and 
his  consort,  who  departed  this  life  five  hundred  years 
ago,  is  a  rather  shabby  structure  that  has  suffered  so 
much  from  neglect  as  to  have  lost  whatever  beauty  it 
may  once  have  had.  On  the  way  back  our  motor  which 
apparently  belonged  to  about  the  same  period  as  the 
tombs  and  was  just  as  much  out  of  repair,  began  to 
behave  very  strangely  and  we  had  grave  doubts  of  its 
ever  reaching  the  river  again,  but  after  a  number  of 
stops  for  overhauling  it  finally  rattled  its  way  to  the 
landing  in  time  for  us  to  be  on  board  at  four,  the  hour 
set  for  our  departure,  and  a  few  minutes  later  we  were 
under  way.    At  dinner  time  some  belated  Christmas 


n6  Aloha  Around  the  World 

presents  that  had  been  represented  by  chits  at  the 
Peking  celebration  were  distributed,  and  the  accumu- 
lated purchases  of  weeks  were  also  displayed  until  the 
saloon  seemed  completely  filled  with  what  Aloha's 
commander  usually  refers  to  as  "junk." 

Wednesday,  Jan.  4th.  Shanghai. — After  a  night  and 
morning  of  uneventful  steaming  down  the  river  we 
turned  the  corner  from  the  Yangtze  into  the  Whangpoo 
in  the  afternoon  and  arrived  at  Shanghai  at  a  little 
after  five.  This  is  a  city  of  surprises.  Like  most  people 
we  had  not  realized  that  it  is  situated  thirteen  miles  up 
a  river,  and  that  this  river  is  so  wide  and  so  full  of 
shipping,  its  banks  are  so  lined  with  docks  and  factories, 
and  there  are  so  many  modern  buildings  in  the  city,  that 
in  the  falling  dusk  one  was  a  little  reminded  of  our  own 
North  River,  but  a  glance  at  the  passing  junks  with 
their  swelling,  brown  sails  and  at  the  swarming  sam- 
pans, quickly  dispelled  this  illusion.  The  local  repre- 
sentative of  the  National  Aniline  and  Chemical  Co.,  Mr. 
Bull  and  his  assistant  Mr.  Hoag,  promptly  came  aboard 
to  greet  William,  and  stayed  to  dinner.  Later  they  took 
William,  Peter  and  me  to  a  Chinese  theater,  the  ladies 
and  Arthur  preferring  to  remain  on  board.  On  the 
way  to  the  play  we  were  astonished  at  the  many  fine 
business  buildings  and  broad  streets  in  the  international 
concession  and  along  the  Nanking  road.  The  theater 
was  large  and  rather  dingy,  but  we  had  first  row  balcony 
seats  and  the  rail  in  front  of  us  was  covered  with  white 
cloths  and  an  extensive  and  varied  array  of  fruit,  pastry, 
and  sweetmeats,  and  every  few  minutes  the  pots  of  tea 


Down  the  Yangtze  117 

before  each  person  were  exchanged  for  fresh  and  steam- 
ing ones.  The  actors  were  wonderfully  costumed  and 
made  up,  most  of  them  in  very  grotesque  fashion,  and 
the  play  was  splendid,  full  of  fights  and  killings.  At 
one  time  there  were  nine  freshly  killed  corpses  on  the 
stage.  Contrary  to  the  ancient  custom  of  having  only 
male  actors  several  women  appeared  but  it  must  be 
confessed  that  they  did  not  shine  either  as  performers  or 
as  beauties.  There  was  the  usual  accompaniment  of 
noisy  music  and  a  good  deal  of  comedy  in  the  play,  and 
altogether  it  was  a  most  diverting  evening.  The  house 
was  well  filled  and  young  China  seems  to  be  quite  able 
to  enjoy  itself  for  there  were  many  youths  with  their 
best  girls  sitting  all  around  us. 

Thursday,  Jan.  $th.  Shanghai. — Harriet  and  Fluff 
started  out  early  to  visit  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  and  St.  John's 
University,  but  the  rest  of  us  spent  the  morning  doing 
errands  and  attending  to  various  affairs.  For  tiffin  we 
met  at  the  Astor  Hotel  but  the  ladies  had  brought  with 
them  a  large  contingent  from  the  institutions  they  had 
visited  and  had  their  luncheon  at  a  separate  table. 
With  us  was  William's  friend,  Mr.  Osborne,  who  is  on 
his  way  to  India  where  we  expect  to  meet  him  again. 
In  the  afternoon  we  saw  more  of  the  city,  including  the 
famous  Bubbling  Well  road  and  many  handsome  resi- 
dences of  retired  Chinese  and  other  traders,  for  whom 
Shanghai,  owing  to  its  being  under  foreign  control,  is  a 
favorite  place  in  which  to  enjoy  the  fruits  of  their  labors. 
Aloha  was  being  coaled  in  the  meantime,  but  the  opera- 
tion was  carried  on  so  slowly  that  we  were  disappointed 


n8  Aloha  Around  the  World 

in  our  hope  of  being  able  to  get  away  before  dark  and 
have  been  compelled  to  spend  the  night  still  at  anchor. 

Friday,  Jan.  6th.  Shanghai  to  Foochow. — It  was 
only  twenty-two  degrees  when  we  started  down  the 
river  at  five-fifteen  this  morning  but  there  was  soon 
plenty  of  excitement  to  make  one  forget  the  tempera- 
ture, for  the  river  was  crowded  and  in  the  dark  we  ran 
down  two  junks  lashed  together,  and  several  wild-eyed 
jabbering  Chinamen  scrambled  aboard.  Little  harm 
was  done  and  the  unexpected  passengers  were  promptly 
taken  off  again  by  the  police-boat  patrolling  the  river 
on  the  lookout  for  opium  smugglers.  During  the  fore- 
noon it  became  much  warmer  and  we  were  able  to  be  on 
deck  without  overcoats.  At  eleven-fifteen  the  last  bar 
was  crossed,  with  only  three  fathoms  of  water,  so  that 
we  actually  dragged  once  or  twice  but  got  over  safely 
and  were  at  sea  again  running  down  by  the  inside 
passage  among  the  islands.  At  times  the  views  were 
very  fine,  reminding  one  a  little  of  the  Inland  Sea, 
though  far  less  beautiful  than  in  that  lovely  sheet  of 
water.  There  was  plenty  of  shipping  and  at  sunset  we 
ran  through  a  fleet  of  about  two  hundred  fishing  boats 
standing  out  through  the  Chusan  archipelago  and  look- 
ing very  picturesque  with  their  brown  sails  against  the 
sunset  sky. 

Saturday,  Jan.  yth.  Shanghai  to  Foochow. — For  most 
of  the  day  there  has  been  a  breeze,  light  but  favorable, 
and  we  have  made  good  time  with  the  square  sails  set, 
and  at  times  have  done  better  than  thirteen  knots.  The 
water  at  last  has  lost  its  yellow  pea-soup  appearance, 


a  >. 
„  g 

c   o 

§•§ 

<»  £ 

t/3    J3 


C    a) 

8  B 


Down  the  Yangtze  119 

and  is  beginning  to  have  a  proper  greenish  color  but  is 
still  very  different  from  the  lovely,  limpid  azure  of  the 
Pacific.  There  are  plenty  of  islands  and  rocks  to  make 
navigation  interesting  and  it  is  fortunate  that  the 
weather  is  so  fine.  These  are  the  seas  that  used  to  be 
the  cruising  ground  of  pirate  junks  but  we  have  seen  , 
nothing  but  peaceful  fishing  sampans.  We  have  been  , 
trying  to  work  out  the  intricate  rules  of  Mah  Jang  and  jGfl>TO 
are  beginning  to  realize  that  it  has  great  possibilities  for 
entertainment,  and  also  that  it  is  as  rich  in  opportuni- 
ties for  post-mortem  discussions  as  auction.  Curiously 
enough,  last  night  we  were  off  Ning  Po  where  the  game 
is  supposed  to  have  originated  a  thousand  years  or  so 
ago.  We  reached  Matsu  Roads  a  little  before  midnight 
and  after  some  delay  a  pilot  came  aboard,  but  it  was 
decided  to  wait  till  morning  before  attempting  to  find 
the  entrance  to  the  river. 

Sunday,  Jan.  8th.  Foochow. — Before  daylight  we 
were  under  way  and  reached  the  buoy  at  the  entrance 
to  the  Min  River  just  as  it  became  light  enough  to  see  it. 
A  little  later  when  we  came  on  deck  the  sky  was  still 
glowing  with  saffron  and  orange  behind  us,  and  ahead 
were  violet  shadows  on  either  side  of  the  stream  that 
gradually  resolved  themselves  into  splendid  mountain 
ranges  with  fine  serrated  crests.  One  after  the  other, 
high-sterned  junks  with  deckloads  of  lumber  almost  as 
large  as  the  hull  suspended  from  either  side  came  down 
the  current,  four  or  five  men  at  each  sweep  helping  the 
great,  brown  sails,  or  being  towed  by  funny  little  yellow 
sampans  with  cocked  up  bows  and  sterns  that  made 


120  Aloha  Around  the  World 

them  look  like  slices  of  melon.  As  the  river  unfolded 
itself  before  us  we  passed  through  the  finest  scenery 
we  have  yet  seen  in  China.  Along  the  shores  were 
wooded  promontories  under  whose  trees  nestled  old, 
gray  temples  or  little  groups  of  houses,  while  behind 
them  rose  green-terraced  heights  that  in  places  recalled 
the  hillsides  of  the  Rhine,  though  there  were  sweet 
potato  patches  instead  of  vineyards  and  fairly  recent 
but  already  antiquated  fortifications  commanding  the 
winding  reaches  of  the  river,  instead  of  legendary  castles. 
On  some  of  the  slopes  where  the  "Fung  Shui "  made  the 
situation  favorable,  horse-shoe  shaped  burial  places 
were  set  into  the  hillsides,  but  most  of  all  we  were 
delighted  to  see  the  earth's  surface  appear  green  again 
after  the  brown  and  barren  spaces  of  the  north.  Long 
before  reaching  the  Pagoda  anchorage  we  could  see  the 
ancient,  white  tower  from  which  it  gets  its  name,  and 
at  about  half  past  ten  o'clock  we  had  come  to  anchor — 
but  still  ten  miles  from  Foochow  as  above  this  point 
the  water  shallows  rapidly.  It  was  here  that  the  famous 
tea  clippers  of  the  sixties  used  to  assemble  every  April 
to  take  on  their  cargoes,  and  then  start  on  their  memor- 
able races  back  to  England  in  intense  rivalry  to  see 
which  ship  could  land  the  first  of  the  season's  crop,  some 
of  the  crack  racers  like  the  Ariel,  Taeping,  Sir  Launce- 
lot,  Thermopylce,  or  Norman  Court  making  the  passage 
to  London  in  one  hundred  days  or  less.  Dr.  Kinnear, 
Mr.  Topping,  and  Mr.  Neff,  of  the  American  Mission 
Board,  and  Dr.  Jones  and  Mr.  Scott,  the  President  and 
Dean  respectively  of  the  Fukhien  Christian  University, 


Down  the  Yangtze  121 

appeared  to  greet  us  and  in  their  launch  we  proceeded 
up  the  river.  As  we  neared  the  city  we  passed  countless 
junks  at  anchor  with  high,  gaily  decorated  sterns  and 
white  and  black  goggle  eyes  at  the  bow,  some  of  them 
with  painted  nostrils  too.  In  order  to  land  we  trans- 
shipped to  sampans  propelled  by  good-looking  women, 
much  handsomer  than  any  we  have  yet  seen  in  China, 
and  in  passing  the  famous  stone  Bridge  of  Ten  Thous- 
and Ages  we  were  delighted  to  see  some  cormorants 
busily  fishing  for  their  master.  At  the  landing  a  crowd 
surrounded  us  that  was  as  fascinated  by  our  extra- 
ordinary appearance  as  we  were  by  theirs,  and  in  ram- 
shackle coupes,  drawn  by  equally  dilapidated  looking 
ponies  we  drove  to  the  American  Mission  Board  com- 
pound. Here  we  divided,  Arthur  and  Harriet  remained 
at  Dr.  Kinnear's,  Fluff  went  to  Dr.  Dyer's,  while  William, 
Peter,  and  I  were  taken  in  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  St.  Clair. 
Luncheon  over,  we  three  went  with  Mr.  Neff  through 
the  crowded  narrow  streets,  and  in  their  ever-shifting 
kaleidoscope  of  strange  sights  felt  that  at  last  we  were 
beholding  the  real  China.  Amid  the  temples  and  palaces 
of  Peking,  splendid  but  deserted,  one  thinks  always  of 
the  great  empire  of  the  past,  but  this  is  the  China  of  to- 
day, seething  with  individual  activity  and  as  teeming 
with  life  as  a  culture  of  motile  bacteria  seen  under  the 
microscope.  We  joined  the  others  at  the  school  for 
blind  boys  started  and  for  many  years  conducted  by 
Mrs.  Wilkinson,  the  wife  of  Dr.  Wilkinson,  and  now  in 
charge  of  Miss  Mathews.  There  are  seventy-six  pupils 
who  are  taught  various  handicrafts,  and  their  choir 


122  Aloha  Around  the  World 

and  band  sang  and  played  for  us  in  a  way  that  was  both 
touching  and  inspiring,  since  it  made  one  realize  how 
efficiently  these  boys  have  been  rescued  from  beggardom 
and  placed  in  a  position  to  become  self-supporting. 
Harriet  and  Arthur  went  on  to  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.  and  the 
Y.  W.  C.  A.,  but  the  rest  of  us  were  joined  by  Mrs. 
Peak  and  Mr.  Peak,  who  was  for  twenty  years  president 
of  Foochow  Christian  College,  and  walked  along  the 
city  wall  to  an  old  tower  on  the  hill  from  which  there 
was  a  splendid  view  in  the  sunset  light,  and  then  strolled 
back  through  the  streets — even  more  fascinating  after 
dark  than  by  day. 

Monday,  Jan.  gih.  Foochow. — The  hospital,  resi- 
dence, college,  and  church  buildings  in  the  compound 
are  all  very  fine  and  the  entire  institution  is  equipped 
and  organized  on  a  much  larger  scale  than  we  had 
expected.  It  took  some  time  to  inspect  everything  and 
then  with  Dr.  Gebhart,  the  chief  surgeon,  I  walked 
through  the  town  and  later  joined  the  others  in  Curio 
Street.  A  great  change  has  come  over  Foochow  in  the 
last  seven  years.  Before  then,  though  its  population  is 
estimated  at  nearly  a  million,  there  was  not  a  wheeled 
vehicle  in  the  city  and  chairs  were  the  only  means  of 
transportation,  but  little  by  little  streets  were  widened 
and  better  paved,  and  now  rickshaws  abound,  there 
are  a  few  horse-drawn  carriages,  and  even  one  or  two 
motor  trucks.  But  the  citizens  still  continue  their 
work  as  they  have  done  for  centuries,  each  craftsman 
in  his  little  shop,  often  with  two  or  three  apprentices — 
mere  children  some  of  them,  who  must  serve  for  five 


Down  the  Yangtze  123 

years  before  getting  in  compensation  anything  more 
than  their  rice.  All  imaginable  crafts  are  represented, 
umbrella  makers,  carvers  of  wood  or  stone,  black- 
smiths, comb-cutters,  weavers,  embroiderers,  makers  of 
drums  and  of  musical  instruments,  or  of  lacquered  ware, 
workers  in  leather,  silversmiths,  and  so  on  in  endless 
variety,  but  all  strictly  specialized  and  working  with  a 
minimum  of  mechanical  assistance  and  a  maximum  of 
patient,  arduous  labor,  and  intensely  interesting  to 
watch.  After  luncheon  Dr.  Kinnear  took  us  to  see  the 
baby-tower  now  happily  not  so  much  used  as  formerly; 
a  low  stone  structure  ten  feet  in  diameter  in  an  un- 
kempt cemetery  surrounded  by  dilapidated  "rest 
houses"  in  which  the  coffins  of  the  departed  are  kept, 
often  for  many  months,  till  the  auspicious  day  for  burial 
has  arrived.  Nearby  was  a  long  row  of  "widows' 
arches, "  memorials  erected  to  commemorate  the  devo- 
tion of  widows  who  had  lived  out  their  days  without 
remarrying.  Later,  in  a  long  procession  of  rickshaws 
we  all  crossed  the  Bridge  of  Ten  Thousand  Ages  to  the 
foreign  settlement,  and  on  this  narrow  thoroughfare 
a  third  of  a  mile  long  and  built  of  huge  blocks  of  stone 
in  the  thirteenth  century,  formed  an  intimate  part  of  a 
throng  that  in  variety  and  extravagance  of  wardrobe 
outdid  the  wildest  and  noisiest  costume  party  ever  held. 
The  foreign  settlement  is  on  a  hill  overlooking  the  rest 
of  the  city  and  the  other  side  of  the  Min,  and  has  many 
fine  residences  and  business  buildings.  After  looking 
at  the  grounds  of  the  Anglo-Chinese  College  we  had 
dinner  at  Dr.  Jones'  house  and  then  brought  a  party  of 


124  Aloha  Around  the  World 

our  mission  friends  back  with  us  down  the  river  in  a 
large  launch  to  see  Aloha.  This  stay  in  Foochow  has 
been  without  doubt  one  of  the  most  interesting  things 
we  have  done  so  far,  and  has  given  us  a  better  idea  of 
how  most  of  China  lives  than  anything  we  have  seen  in 
the  other  places  visited.  The  greatest  fundamental 
bar  to  the  progress  of  the  Chinese  people  appears  to  be 
their  intensely  individualistic  habit  of  mind  which 
makes  it  impossible  to  bring  about  organized  effort  in 
any  direction,  and  the  greatest  immediate  need  appears 
to  be  provision  for  better  means  of  communication, 
especially  roads,  not  only  to  facilitate  transportation, 
but  to  break  down  the  isolation  that  keeps  the  people 
of  closely  adjacent  sections  of  the  country  strangers  to 
each  other  in  interests  and  even  in  speech.  As  an  illus- 
tration of  this  it  may  be  mentioned  that  Mr.  Topping 
who  has  to  travel  constantly  through  the  province  in  his 
work  of  supervising  the  schools,  told  us  that  in  one 
journey  of  120  miles  he  encountered  three  totally  differ- 
ent dialects. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  ioih.  Foochow  to  Hong  Kong. — As 
day  broke  we  left  the  anchorage  and  steamed  down  the 
river  past  the  same  fine  views  we  had  enjoyed  so  much 
on  the  way  upt  By  ten  o'clock  the  pilot  had  been 
dropped  and  we  were  at  sea  again  with  a  good  north- 
east breeze  so  that  an  hour  later  steam  was  rung  off 
and  we  were  making  good  time  down  the  coast  under 
the  square  sails.  It  was  quite  cold,  with  a  moderately 
heavy  sea  but  the  wind  continued  strong  and  all  day  we 
were  running  from  twelve  to  nearly  fifteen  knots  and 


Down  the  Yangtze  125 

during  the  evening  overhauled  several  steamers  going 
in  the  same  direction. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  nth.  Foochow  to  Hong  Kong. — 
We  are  still  going  down  the  coast  at  a  great  rate  for  the 
northeast  breeze  is  holding  well,  and  from  noon  yester- 
day to  noon  today  our  run  was  285  miles.  The  Shanghai 
coal  is  awful  stuff,  however,  that  makes  a  thick,  greasy 
smoke  and  though  we  are  running  under  sail  there  is 
always  a  sooty  cloud  pouring  out  of  the  funnel.  All  the 
rigging  is  very  grimy  and  even  the  nice  new  suit  of 
Japanese  sails  on  the  main  is  sadly  streaked  and  spotted. 

Thursday,  Jan.  12th.  Hong  Kong. — Hong  Kong  is  a 
great  stronghold  of  the  British  Lion  and  since  it  was 
acquired  in  1841  its  owners  have  made  of  it  a  second 
Gibraltar,  and  the  keystone  of  British  power  in  the 
Far  East.  Originally  little  more  than  a  mass  of  barren 
rock,  the  island  now  is  the  seat  of  a  delightfully  attrac- 
tive city,  full  of  trees  and  gardens,  and  its  land-locked 
harbor  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most  active  in  the  world. 
On  the  landward  side  lies  Kowloon,  the  starting  point 
of  the  Canton  and  Hong  Kong  Railway,  and  on  the 
other  side  is  the  island  of  Hong  Kong  with  the  city  of 
Victoria  stretching  along  the  water  front  and  extending 
high  up  the  steeply  terraced  slopes  of  Mount  Victoria 
to  the  Peak,  which  is  nearly  two  thousand  feet  above 
sea  level.  Everywhere  one  sees  evidences  of  the  splendid 
British  management,  wide  streets,  clean  and  well 
policed  by  picturesque  looking  Sikhs,  fine  public  build- 
ings, and  good  shops.  There  are  plenty  of  rickshaws 
but  as  so  many  of  the  streets  climb  stairs  like  those  in 


126  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Naples,  and  most  of  the  residences  are  up  steep  hill- 
sides where  no  wheels  can  go,  chairs  are  in  general  use. 
These  are  very  attractive,  made  of  green  wicker  with 
white  cushions  and  carried  on  long  springy  poles  by 
coolies  in  quaint,  blue,  peaked  straw  hats  and  loose  knee 
breeches  that  allow  their  enormously  developed  leg 
muscles  to  be  seen.  At  four- thirty  in  the  morning  we 
anchored  in  the  eastern  channel  leading  to  the  harbor 
and  started  again  at  about  seven,  reaching  Victoria  at 
eight-thirty.  The  day  was  warm  and  sunny,  very 
cheering  to  our  chilly  bodies  that  had  not  been  really 
warm  for  weeks,  and  for  lunch  we  motored  to  the  de- 
lightful hotel  at  Repulse  Bay  where  we  basked  awhile 
in  the  sunshine,  and  then  continued  the  circuit  around 
the  island,  a  distance  of  twenty-six  miles.  The  road  is  a 
magnificent  piece  of  engineering,  and  as  it  winds  over 
the  hills  and  around  the  inlets  there  are  enchanting 
views  of  island-dotted  bays,  fishing  villages  in  sandy 
coves,  rugged  hills,  and  stretches  of  open  sea.  Even 
Jake  admitted  that  the  scenery  could  be  compared  with 
that  of  Honolulu,  but  as  William  observed,  he  wasn't 
feeling  very  well.  Later  we  went  up  the  Peak  in  the 
funicular  which  stops  at  thirteen  hundred  feet,  but  one 
can  walk  several  hundred  feet  higher  and  the  panorama 
of  the  harbor  crowded  with  shipping  and  with  Kowloon 
and  the  distant  hills  in  the  background,  is  beyond  des- 
cription. When  darkness  fell  the  city  revealed  its 
beauty  in  a  new  aspect  for  the  myriad  twinkling  lights 
along  the  water  front  and  up  the  black  mountain  slopes 
behind  made  a  picture  almost  fairy-like  in  its  charm. 


o 


•E  E 


5  & 
m  £ 


Down  the  Yangtze  127 

A  little  after  nine  we  departed  bag  and  baggage  to  take 
the  river  boat  for  Canton  and  found  it  a  large  and  com- 
fortable looking  vessel,  but  soon  after  our  arrival  on 
board  it  was  announced,  that  as  the  result  of  a  strike 
of  the  firemen  and  seamen,  the  ship  could  not  leave  the 
dock,  so  in  common  with  a  large  and  vociferous  crowd 
of  Chinese  passengers  that  poured  out  of  the  third  class 
quarters,  we  had  to  go  ashore  again  and  return  to  our 
comfortable  beds  on  Aloha.  This  means  that  we  shall 
have  to  go  by  train  tomorrow  afternoon  and  lose  a  day 
of  the  time  we  expected  to  spend  in  Canton. 

Friday,  Jan.  ijth.  Canton. — After  spending  the 
morning  in  various  affairs  about  the  town  we  crossed 
to  Kowloon  after  lunch  and  found  a  comfortable  obser- 
vation car  ready  for  us  on  the  three  o'clock  train.  This 
road  which  has  been  opened  only  since  1910  is  the  most 
southerly  section  of  the  line  which  will  ultimately  con- 
nect Peking  with  Hong  Kong  by  rail  via  Hankow.  The 
run  of  one  hundred  and  ten  miles  to  Canton  is  the  most 
interesting  and  picturesque  railway  journey  we  have 
had  in  China,  and  the  fertile  country  through  which  we 
passed,  with  charming  glimpses  of  distant  villages  and 
pagodas,  gave  us  our  first  idea  of  what  China  really  looks 
like  when  it  is  green  and  why  the  Chinese  farmers  are 
so  highly  praised.  It  is  a  long  distance  from  the  station 
in  Canton  to  the  Shameen,  but  appropriately  enough  in 
this  city  so  many  of  whose  inhabitants  never  leave  then- 
boats,  one  makes  the  trip  by  water,  and  it  all  seemed 
very  queer  and  mysterious  as  we  passed  the  shadowy 
outlines  of  junks  and  sampans,  flower  boats  and  high- 


128  Aloha  Around  the  World 

arched  bridges,  all  indistinctly  seen  in  the  darkness. 
The  Shameen  is  an  oval  island  covering  forty-five  acres 
of  which  four  fifths  belongs  to  the  British  and  one  fifth 
to  the  French,  and  was  set  aside  as  a  foreign  settlement 
in  1859.  It  is  connected  with  the  city  by  two  narrow 
bridges  constantly  protected  by  armed  guards  and  by 
iron  gates  which  are  closed  at  night,  and  no  Chinese 
except  the  house  servants  of  the  residents  are  allowed 
on  the  island  after  ten  o'clock.  Canton,  next  to  Macao, 
is  the  oldest  Chinese  port  thrown  open  to  foreign  trade, 
but  the  native  city  and  the  foreign  settlement  are  still 
as  distinct  as  if  they  were  on  separate  continents.  After 
dinner  we  decided,  late  as  it  was,  to  get  our  first  im- 
pression of  the  city  and  set  forth  in  a  long  string  of 
chairs,  each  with  three  bearers,  across  the  bridge  and 
through  the  guarded  portals — and  at  once  entered  a 
different  world.  A  world  of  twisting  streets  seldom 
more  than  six  feet  wide,  illuminated  only  by  the  dim 
lights  of  the  shops  where  the  late  toilers  were  still  at 
work,  a  world  of  endless,  uncanny-looking,  yellow  faces 
and  of  never-ceasing,  harsh,  metallic  sounding  cries, 
of  noisome  smells  and  of  repulsive  sights  in  the  stalls 
of  the  food  venders ;  a  world  fantastic  and  terrifying  as 
a  nightmare ;  a  phantasmagoria  of  incoherent  shapes  and 
apparitions  and  yet  the  home  of  over  a  million  human 
beings.  After  an  hour  or  so  of  this  excursion  into  the 
unreal  we  returned  through  the  guarded  gates,  and  in 
the  commonplace  surroundings  of  the  hotel  lobby  found 
ourselves  back  in  the  land  of  the  accustomed  as  sud- 
denly as  one  wakens  from  a  dream. 


Down  the  Yangtze  129 

Saturday,  Jan.  14th.  Canton. — To  make  the  most 
of  our  morning  in  Canton  we  started  at  eight-fifteen 
in  two  detachments.  Most  of  the  time  was  spent  in 
visiting  the  shops  of  the  various  crafts  such  as  the 
weavers,  ivory  carvers,  wood  carvers,  jade  workers, 
kingfisher  feather  workers,  lacquerers,  porcelain  dealers, 
etc.  It  is  astonishing  to  see  with  what  simple  and  even 
crude  appliances  the  work  is  done,  everything  depending 
on  the  individual  skill  of  the  workmen,  often  little  more 
than  children,  and  from  the  most  primitive  and  dingy 
surroundings  spring  masterpieces  of  patient  toil,  delicate 
fabrics  glowing  with  color,  or  the  gaudy  scarlet  and 
tinsel  paraphernalia  for  festivals,  such  as  only  the 
Chinese  mind  could  design.  In  one  temple  are  the  life- 
size  images  of  the  five  hundred  immediate  disciples  of 
Buddha,  with  an  alleged  figure  of  Marco  Polo  among 
the  number,  and  another  temple  we  visited  is  devoted 
to  the  God  of  Healing,  with  a  series  of  sixty  figures 
each  presiding  over  a  different  year  of  life,  so  that  the 
pious  votary  may  select  the  deity  corresponding  to  his 
own  age.  But  it  was  the  streets  themselves  that  were 
most  interesting,  with  strange  sights  and  sounds  on 
every  hand.  Though  we  failed  to  find  anywhere  in  the 
food-dealers'  shops  the  varnished  rats  we  had  been  told 
about  there  were  other  displays,  no  less  unesthetic, 
and  we  did  see  living  snakes  in  cages  exposed  for  sale 
for  food.  In  front  of  the  Shameen  the  sampans  of  the 
Tan-min  or  river  folk  were  thickly  packed  and  it  was 
fascinating  to  watch  the  activities  of  the  people,  some 
of  whom  are  born,  live,  and  die  without  ever  going 


130  Aloha  Around  the  World 

ashore.  The  journey  back  on  the  afternoon  train  did 
not  seem  very  long  and  we  were  on  board  again  in  time 
for  a  late  dinner. 

Sunday \  Jan.  15th.  Hong  Kong. — It  was  cloudy  and 
not  very  favorable  for  sight  seeing,  but  we  walked  about 
the  streets,  visited  our  good  friend  Tak  Cheong  who  is 
progressing  well  with  the  various  garments  he  is  making 
for  us,  and  attended  church  in  the  pretty  little  cathedral. 
Later  Peter,  William,  and  I  visited  the  Hong  Kong 
Club  which  is  very  large  and  comfortable  with  verandas 
looking  out  over  the  harbor  and  into  the  square,  where 
a  big  temporary  building  is  being  erected  in  preparation 
for  the  coming  visit  of  the  Prince  of  Wales.  A  number 
of  people  came  on  board  for  tea,  among  them  Sir  Charles 
Addis,  Director  of  the  Consortium,  and  his  daughter 
Miss  Betty,  the  Portuguese  Minister  to  Peking,  Mr. 
de  Freitas  and  Mrs.  de  Freitas,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Sibley, 
and  the  Ruddocks  and  Mrs.  Kirk  who  are  on  the  Wenat- 
chee  en  route  for  Manila  and  will  sail  tomorrow  after- 
noon. Mr.  A.  Stephen,  Manager  of  the  Hong  Kong 
and  Shanghai  Bank  invited  us  to  dinner  in  his  big  house 
near  the  cathedral  where  we  met  again  the  Addises,  the 
de  Freitas  and  the  Ruddocks. 


CHAPTER  VI 

AMERICA  IN  THE  FAR  EAST 

Monday,  Jan.  16th.  Hong  Kong  to  Corregidor. — 
Harriet  and  I  visited  the  Sibleys  who  live  on  the  Peak 
in  a  prettily  placed  house  that  is  said  to  have  a  wonder- 
ful view  of  the  south  side  of  the  island,  but  which  owing 
to  the  fog  we  were  obliged  to  take  on  faith.  The  others 
spent  the  morning  on  various  errands  and  at  four-ten 
Aloha  got  under  way  and  was  soon  at  sea  with  mist  and 
rain  and  a  heavy  swell  but  a  good  northeast  breeze, 
and  under  all  sail  headed  for  Manila.  We  leave  China 
with  pleasant  memories  of  Hong  Kong,  with  regret 
for  so  much  that  is  left  unseen,  and  yet  with  the  satis- 
faction of  having  learned  a  great  deal,  especially  in 
Foochow.  Interesting  the  Chinese  are,  but  wholly 
alien  to  the  Occidental  in  every  mental  and  moral 
attribute.  While  it  is  true  that  after  centuries  of 
lethargy  some  stirrings  of  new  life  are  animating  the 
Chinese  colossus,  its  bulk  is  too  vast  for  any  rapid 
change  to  be  possible  and  a  complete  rebirth  of  the 
national  consciousness  is  imperative  before  great  prog- 
ress can  follow.  The  essentially  egoistic  mental  atti- 
tude which  at  present  prevails  must  be  replaced  by 
some  spirit  of  altruism  and  concerted  action,  which  has 
always  been  lacking,  before  a  people  which  possesses 

131 


132  Aloha  Around  the  World 

no  word  for  patriotism  and  does  not  understand  the 
meaning  of  the  idea,  but  uses  over  a  hundred  symbols 
for  "good  luck  and  long  life"  can  emerge  from  the  state 
of  inertia  in  which  it  has  stagnated  for  so  many  ages. 

Tuesday \  Jan.  i?th.  Hong  Kong  to  Corregidor. — 
It  is  warm  and  so  very  humid  that  everything  is  moist 
and  sticky  just  as  it  used  to  be  in  the  Gulf  of  Panama, 
but  there  have  been  occasional  flashes  of  sunshine 
through  the  day  and  we  are  forgetting  everything  else 
in  our  interest  in  the  new  adventures  that  lie  ahead. 
The  wind  veered  to  the  southeast  and  through  the  day 
we  sailed  only  slowly  and  to  the  southward  of  our  course, 
but  at  dinner  time  it  became  stronger  and  hauled  around 
to  the  northeast  which  put  us  back  in  the  proper  direc- 
tion. During  the  afternoon  we  had  as  companion  a 
blackfish  twelve  or  fifteen  feet  long  which  followed  us  a 
long  time,  swimming  close  to  the  stern  and  coming  up 
from  time  to  time  to  blow,  until  finally  he  became  tired 
of  our  company  and  with  a  parting  snort  darted  off  to 
seek  some  more  exciting  adventure. 

Lat.  20°.i6'  N.,  Long.  ii5°.i7'  E.  Distance  128 
miles. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  18th.  Hong  Kong  to  Corregidor. — 
This  has  been  one  of  the  best  sailing  days  of  the  trip, 
with  bright  sunshine  and  a  strong  northeast  monsoon 
that  frequently  drove  us  along  at  fifteen  knots.  We 
have  been  trying  to  get  information  by  wireless  from 
Admiral  Strauss  in  regard  to  the  cholera  situation  in  the 
Philippines  and  are  still  uncertain  as  to  what  to  do,  but 
it  seems  best  to  keep  away  from  Manila  altogether  in 


.  ■,-,       •:  - 


A   VlNTA    AT    lLOILO 

One  of  the  picturesque  and  speedy  boats  used  by  the  Filipino  fishermen. 


Filipinos  Diving 

At  Zamboanga  both  boys  and  girls  turned  out  in  great  numbers  to  dive  for  coins  thrown  in 

the  water. 


America  in  the  Far  East  133 

order  to  avoid  any  possibility  of  quarantine  at  Batavia. 

Lat.  i7°.52'  N.,  Long.  Ii7°4i'  E.  Distance  198 
miles. 

Thursday,  Jan.  igth.  Hong  Kong  to  Corregidor. — 
Last  night  was  very  hot,  but  I  do  not  think  that  any  of 
us  minded  it;  after  those  chilly  weeks  in  Japan  and 
China  it  was  rather  nice  to  feel  a  little  too  warm  again. 
In  the  forenoon  a  message  arrived  from  Admiral 
Strauss  informing  us  that  we  could  safely  land  at  Cor- 
regidor, which  was  very  good  news.  Shortly  after 
breakfast  land  appeared  on  the  horizon  and  all  day  we 
steamed  down  the  beautiful  coast  line  of  Luzon.  The 
afternoon's  run  close  along  the  shore  past  the  beautiful 
wooded  hills  with  fluffy  clouds  curling  about  their 
summits,  was  one  of  the  finest  we  have  had.  Just  at 
dusk  we  anchored  off  Corregidor  and  General  and  Mrs. 
Todd  and  their  daughter  Harriet,  who  had  been  await- 
ing our  arrival  all  afternoon,  promptly  appeared  in  a  big 
launch  and  took  us  ashore  for  dinner.  It  was  a  long 
trolley  ride  winding  up  the  slopes  of  the  hill  from  the 
start  at  the  " Bottom  Side"  terminal  to  the  "Top  Side" 
station  at  the  summit,  where  the  Todd's  house  overlooks 
the  sea,  and  from  their  veranda,  far  off  in  the  distance, 
one  could  see  a  faint  glow  of  light  showing  where  Manila 
lay  thirty  miles  away  across  the  historic  waters  of  the 
bay. 

Lat.  I5°.8'N.,  Long.  II9°.58'E.     Distance2ii  miles. 

Friday,  Jan.  20th.  Corregidor. — After  an  early 
breakfast  we  started  up  the  hill  to  the  Todd's  in  the 
trolley,  which  is  unique  in  that  it  is  free  for  all  and  no 


134  Aloha  Around  the  World 

fares  are  collected.  The  Fort  Mills  Hospital  is  a  splen- 
did example  of  what  an  army  hospital  should  be,  and  is 
well  administered  under  the  direction  of  Major  Mc- 
Brayer,  with  excellent  dental  and  eye  clinics,  x-ray 
department,  laboratory,  operating  equipment,  etc. 
After  seeing  this  I  joined  the  others  in  the  office  of 
Colonel  Tilton,  Chief  of  the  Artillery  Service,  and  then 
General  Todd  took  us  about  and  showed  us  some  of  the 
fortifications  and  a  fire  control  station  under  the  charge 
of  Colonel  Bishop,  where  we  watched  target  practice 
from  a  distant  mortar  battery.  It  was  a  revelation  to 
see  how  completely  this  island  has  been  fortified,  so  that 
only  Gibraltar  can  be  compared  to  it,  and  the  entrance 
to  the  magnificent  bay,  a  hundred  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, has  been  made  absolutely  impregnable.  The 
Todds  and  the  General's  Aide,  Lieut.  Fellers,  and  Dr. 
McBrayer  lunched  with  us  aboard  the  yacht,  and  then 
we  steamed  around  the  island  stopping  to  inspect  the 
curiously  fortified  rock  El  Fraile,  and  enjoyed  the 
beautiful  views  of  the  surrounding  hills  and  the  smaller 
islands.  After  remaining  at  anchor  till  midnight  we 
started  on  the  run  to  Iloilo. 

Saturday,  Jan.  21st.  Corregidor  to  Iloilo. — After 
running  through  the  Verde  Island  passage  we  entered 
Tablas  Strait,  thirty  miles  wide,  between  Mindoro  and 
Tablas  Island  and  ran  all  day  under  steam  and  sail 
with  a  following  wind  at  eleven  to  twelve  knots.  At 
first  the  course  took  us  close  to  the  verdant  hills  of 
Mindoro  which  is  ninety  miles  in  length,  but  later  as 
the  strait  widened  the  islands  were  too  distant  on  either 


America  in  the  Far  East  135 

bow  to  offer  much  in  the  way  of  scenic  interest.  The 
only  signs  of  life  discernible  on  the  shores  were  the  lights 
of  what  seemed  to  be  forest  fires  on  Tablas  Island  that 
came  out  one  by  one  as  darkness  fell  after  a  lovely  opal 
sunset.  At  dusk  some  flying  fish  lost  their  way  and 
came  aboard  just  in  time  to  be  cooked  and  served  to 
Fluff  at  dinner,  much  to  her  surprise  as  she  had  sup- 
posed that  these  butterflies  of  the  sea  were  only  for 
ornament  and  had  no  caloric  value. 

Sunday,  Jan.  22nd.  Iloilo. — We  early  turned  the 
corner  of  Panay  Island  at  Cape  Naso  and  then  headed 
for  Iloilo  against  a  strong  head  wind.  All  the  morning 
it  was  cloudy  and  before  we  anchored  off  the  old  fort  of 
San  Pedro  built  in  1656  to  protect  the  town  from  raiding 
Moros,  a  heavy  down-pour  of  rain  commenced.  The 
weather  and  the  appearance  of  the  town  as  seen  from 
the  water-front  reminded  us  a  little  of  Hilo,  but  on  going 
ashore  we  found  that  this  rain  had  nothing  in  common 
with  the  polite  and  evanescent  showers  of  the  Hawaiian 
island  that  came  and  went  in  rather  playful  fashion, 
for  it  was  a  real  tropical  deluge,  steady  and  determined, 
that  was  out  for  business  and  soon  penetrated  every 
ostensibly  protecting  garment.  A  short  journey  of 
exploration  convinced  us  that  Iloilo  on  Sunday  after- 
noon offered  no  indoor  amusements,  and  we  took  our 
streaming  selves  back  to  the  yacht  where  we  stayed  the 
rest  of  the  day  and  evening. 

Monday,  Jan.  2jrd.  Iloilo. — The  natives  here  use 
a  very  speedy  and  characteristic  type  of  sail  boat  called 
the  vinta.    The  dugout  hull,  made  from  a  single  tree 


136  Aloha  Around  the  World 

trunk,  is  very  narrow  and  provided  with  outriggers 
on  either  side,  and  as  many  of  the  crew  as  can  find  room 
pile  on  to  the  outer  portion  of  the  windward  outrigger 
as  the  little  craft  heels  over  under  the  pressure  of  the 
wind  on  the  triangular  sail,  and  many  of  these  amusing 
visitors  were  dodging  about  Aloha  as  we  prepared  to  go 
ashore.  The  rain  had  stopped  though  it  still  remained 
cloudy,  and  Mr.  Guillermo  Gomez,  the  Collector  of 
Customs  of  the  Port,  accompanied  us  in  his  car.  After 
a  visit  to  his  attractive  house  we  drove  out  through  the 
suburbs  of  Molo,  Arevalo,  and  Oton,  the  latter  the  oldest 
settlement  on  the  island,  stopping  to  view  an  interesting 
church  or  two  and  buy  some  of  the  native  pifia  or  pine- 
apple cloth.  The  native  houses  of  bamboo  and  thatch 
surrounded  by  luxuriant  tropical  vegetation  extend  un- 
interruptedly along  the  roadside,  the  fewness  of  their 
owners'  needs  being  shown  by  the  small  number  of  shops 
of  any  kind  to  be  seen  once  the  city  was  left  behind. 
The  natives  are  a  nice  looking,  cheerful  lot  with  clear, 
brown  skins  and  good  teeth,  and  the  women  are  justly 
proud  of  their  long,  black  hair.  They  wear  a  peculiar 
bodice  of  gauzy  pifia  cloth  with  very  loose  elbow  sleeves 
and  a  high  rolling  collar  that  stand  well  out  from 
the  body.  We  have  gained  the  impression  that  how- 
ever much  they  may  cherish  the  idea  of  indepen- 
dence, the  more  educated  Filipinos  are  glad  to  be  under 
American  protection  and  realize  that  if  cut  adrift  to 
fend  for  themselves,  they  would  soon  be  in  difficulties. 
By  twelve  we  were  back  on  board  headed  for  Zambo- 
anga,  two  hundred  and  forty  miles  almost  due  south, 


Fort  Pillar  at  Zamboanga 

On  either  side  of  a  lovely  park  with  its  water-lily  covered  canal  are  the  houses 
of  the  officers  stationed  in  this  furthest  post  of  the  U.  S.  A.  In  the  distance  are  the 
gray  walls  of  the  ancient  Spanish  fort  named  for  Xuestra  Senora  del  Pilar. 


America  in  the  Far  East  137 

but  the  wind  was  disappointing  and  after  dark  we  had 
to  steam  as  well  as  sail. 

Tuesday,  Jan.  24th.  Zamboanga. — Today  we  have 
crossed  an  imaginary  line  and  entered  a  new  world,  the 
world  of  the  tropics,  whose  very  name  spells  enchant- 
ment and  mystery  and  of  which  such  places  as  the  West 
Indies,  Panama,  and  Hawaii  that  we  have  seen  before 
have  been  but  the  outposts,  lovely  and  full  of  strange 
interest,  but  only  dim  f or eshado wings  of  what  is  to 
come  in  these  lands  and  waters  that  now  lie  before  us. 
All  afternoon  we  have  been  skirting  the  emerald  shores 
of  Mindanao,  close  enough  to  watch  the  brown-skinned 
natives  about  their  huts  of  bamboo  and  nipa  leaves  or 
on  the  palm  fringed  beaches,  and  finally  sailed  into  a 
sunset  sea  adorned  with  all  the  accessories  of  exotic 
beauty  imagination  could  invent.  On  the  one  side  was 
the  tufted  green  of  the  hilly  shore  we  were  approaching, 
luminous  in  the  slanting  rays;  on  the  other  a  sea  of 
indigo  rimmed  by  the  no  less  blue  hills  of  distant  Basilan ; 
straight  ahead  lay  the  coral  islets  of  Santa  Cruz,  and 
arching  over  it  all  the  coloring  of  a  sunset  almost  too 
splendid  to  be  real.  As  the  twilight  deepened,  flying 
foxes,  large  bats  with  wings  three  feet  across,  flapped 
overhead  in  great  numbers  from  the  island  haunts  in 
which  they  spend  the  day,  on  their  nightly  way  to  shore 
to  feed,  and  just  at  dark  we  tied  up  to  the  pier  at  Zam- 
boanga. Mr.  Lawrence  Benton,  the  Collector  of  Cus- 
toms, and  Mrs.  Benton  soon  came  aboard  and  gave 
pratique  and  after  dinner  we  walked  along  the  concrete 
mole  bordered  with  flower  vases  and  up  to  the  three 


138  Aloha  Around  the  World 

tiny  plazas  named  after  Salcedo,  Pershing,  and  Rizal. 
These  form  the  center  of  the  little  town  and  are  prettily- 
decorated  with  flowers,  fountains,  and  a  really  fine 
monument  to  Dr.  Rizal,  one  of  the  famous  patriots  of 
the  islands  executed  by  the  Spaniards  in  1896  on  the 
charge  of  having  fomented  a  rebellion. 

Wednesday,  Jan.  25th.  Zamboanga. — In  accordance 
with  tropical  custom  we  made  an  early  start  and  after 
Jake  had  called  on  the  governor,  went  first  through  the 
unusually  attractive  military  post  adjoining  Fort  Pillar 
so  named  for  a  shrine  placed  in  the  wall  of  the  ancient 
fortress  and  dedicated  to  Nuestra  Sefiora  del  Pilar. 
The  Bentons,  who  were  our  very  obliging  guides,  next 
took  us  to  the  newly  laid  out  park  on  the  hills  behind 
the  town  with  a  pretty  swimming  pool,  and  then  to  the 
country  club.  This  used  to  be  a  prison  but  has  now 
been  converted  to  less  sinister  uses,  and  here  we  met 
many  of  the  army  officers,  who  with  several  companies 
of  infantry  were  working  out  a  problem  on  the  golf 
links.  Among  them  was  Major  Fletcher,  commandant 
of  the  post,  who  has  enormous  influence  with  the  Moros, 
who  have  made  him  a  dato  or  chief.  A  company  of 
Moros  was  drilling  with  the  other  troops  and  looked 
like  a  pretty  efficient  fighting  instrument.  In  accord- 
ance with  the  religious  tenets  which  prescribe  brimless 
head  gear  for  the  Mohammedan  worshiper,  who  must 
bow  his  forehead  to  the  earth,  these  soldiers  by  special 
permission  of  the  War  Department,  wear  a  droll  sort 
of  tiara  of  khaki,  open  on  top  and  with  a  high  peak 
behind.     Then  we  went  on  over  many  kilometers  of 


el 


i  .- 

<U     > 

S    <u 

8  3 

*bfl    ^ 

Is 


.a    bo 


"  2 

n 


t3  "t) 
C    O 


America  in  the  Far  East  139 

perfect  maccadam  road  with  lovely  glimpses  of  the  sea 
through  the  openings  in  the  coconut  plantations,  and 
past  the  native  houses  perched  on  stilts  and  with  their 
walls  braided  of  the  tough  ribbons  of  the  nipa  palm, 
to  the  San  Ramon  Penal  Farm,  one  of  the  model  institu- 
tions of  its  kind.  Between  six  and  seven  hundred 
prisoners  are  kept  at  work  here  in  the  coconut  planta- 
tion of  over  thirty  thousand  trees,  and  live  in  airy 
concrete  dormitories  surrounded  by  beautiful  lawns  and 
flower  beds,  while  many  of  the  trusties  have  little 
separate  houses  which  they  occupy  with  their  families. 
In  the  absence  of  the  superintendent,  Mr.  Paredes,  the 
Assistant  Superintendent,  most  hospitably  kept  us  all 
for  lunch  in  his  delightful  house  close  to  the  shore. 
The  luncheon  was  very  good  and  was  served  on  the 
cool  veranda  by  five  or  six  murderers  beaming  with 
smiles  who  proffered  rice  and  chicken  and  waved  long- 
handled  fly  disturbers  over  our  heads  with  a  courteous 
and  kindly  empressement  that  recalled  the  refrain  of  a 
song  very  popular  in  the  old  Casino  days : 

"We're  an  airy,  fairy,  cheery  band  of  murderers, 
And  a  nickel  is  our  value  of  a  life; 
Any  sanguinary  job  should  be  referred  to  us, 
We'll  relieve  you  of  your  money  or  your  wife." 

After  bidding  farewell  to  our  amiable  host  and  hostess 
and  their  pretty  daughter  we  returned  to  the  city, 
stopping  to  buy  orchids  at  several  of  the  native  houses. 
Later  Mr.  Benton  took  on  Peter  for  a  round  of  golf, 
while  William,  Fluff,  and  I  made  the  rounds  of  the  shops 
in  search  of  Moro  brass  work.    We  also  went  out  to  the 


140  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Settlement  where  Bishop  Mosher  let  us  see  some  of  the 
fine  work  that  is  being  done  for  the  Moro  children,  in 
spite  of  the  difficulty  of  winning  the  confidence  of  these 
shy  people .  In  the  nearby  Moro  fishing  village  of  Kawa- 
kawa  we  gained  some  impression  of  what  the  native  life 
really  is,  and  saw  the  extraordinary,  scarlet-lipped, 
black-toothed  appearance  produced  by  betel-nut  chew- 
ing, to  which  nearly  all  the  people  are  addicted.  On 
the  way  back  to  Aloha  we  stopped  at  the  office  of  the 
native  constabulary  where  there  is  a  well  displayed 
collection  of  weapons  captured  from  the  different  native 
tribes,  and  whatever  may  be  the  deficiencies  of  these 
people  in  other  directions,  they  certainly  show  no  lack 
of  skill  or  ingenuity  in  the  design  and  construction  of 
their  krises  and  javelins. 

At  five-thirty  the  members  of  the  Army  and  Navy 
Club  and  the  Overseas  Club,  who  had  been  invited  for 
tea  began  to  arrive,  and  soon  between  seventy  and  a 
hundred  guests  were  exclaiming  over  Aloha's  beauty 
and  comfort,  listening  to  the  Filipino  band,  or  consum- 
ing solid  and  liquid  nourishment ;  particularly  one  form 
of  the  latter  which  was  found  so  meritorious  that  the 
chef  afterward  informed  me  that  he  had  distributed  the 
recipe  for  its  manufacture  to  no  less  than  seventeen 
different  inquirers.  One  of  the  pleasantest  and  most 
interesting  days  we  have  had  closed  with  a  dance  given 
in  our  honor  at  the  Army  and  Navy  Club,  where  we 
finally  reluctantly  said  good-bye  to  the  many  agreeable 
acquaintances  we  had  made  in  this  the  furthest  outpost 
of  the  American  Army. 


£2 

s 
t  a 

<       bo 
W      -S 

^   s 
£    g 

fa 

2 

W 
•J 

< 

J 


DO  -u 
60 


W        T5 


America  in  the  Far  East  141 

Thursday,  Jan.  26th.  Jolo. — With  the  haunting 
strains  of  the  gay  Filipino  air  Zamboanga  and  its  hos- 
pitable admonition :  ' '  No  se  vayasf  no  se  vayas  di  Zam- 
boanga" still  ringing  in  our  ears,  we  left  the  friendly- 
little  port  at  dawn  amid  the  marvels  of  a  tropic  sunrise. 
As  steady  as  the  proverbial  church,  Aloha  slipped  over 
the  waveless  Sulu  sea  past  lovely  islands  large  and  small, 
and  coral  strands  so  nearly  at  the  water's  level  that 
their  palm  trees  seemed  to  spring  from  the  sea  itself, 
till  at  three  o'clock  we  had  reached  the  town  of  Jolo  on 
the  island  of  Sulu.  This  is  the  capital  of  the  famous 
monarch  made  known  to  Broadway  years  ago  by  Frank 
Daniels  in  that  sprightly  operetta  The  Sultan  of  Sulu, 
but  whose  realm  had  always  seemed  as  mythical  as  the 
famous  principality  of  Ruritania.  However,  the  Sultan 
is  a  very  real  personage  with  a  pretty  and  prosperous 
little  city  in  Jolo,  though  his  palace  here  is  a  rather 
shabby  looking  affair  and  his  official  residence  is  at 
Mainbung,  some  miles  to  the  south.  Jolo  is  said  to  be 
the  smallest  walled  town  in  existence,  for  the  ramparts 
are  just  one  kilometer  in  circumference,  and  its  inhabi- 
tants probably  affect  more  different  styles  of  dress  than 
do  those  of  any  other  place  in  the  world .  It  is  no  wonder 
that  it  seemed  a  suitable  setting  for  a  comic  opera,  for 
no  stage  manager  could  ever  invent  for  the  adornment 
of  his  chorus  such  combinations  of  stripes  and  ara- 
besques, such  purples,  yellows,  greens  and  scarlets, 
such  sarongs  and  pantaloons,  skin-tight  or  flopping, 
such  peaked  straw  hats,  fezzes,  and  rainbow-hued  head 
wrappings,  as  may  be  seen  in  a  two-minute  walk  on 


142  Aloha  Around  the  World 

any  street  in  this  extraordinarily  fascinating  little 
place.  We  did  not  stop,  to  inspect  the  town  but  hur- 
ried at  once  by  motor  through  lovely,  hilly  country 
to  the  school  for  Moro  boys  established  fourteen  miles 
away  towards  the  center  of  the  island  by  Mrs.  Lorillard 
Spencer.  Mrs.  Spencer  is  at  present  away  but  is  expected 
to  return  next  month  and  we  were  shown  through 
the  buildings  by  Mr.  Fogerty  who  is  in  charge  during 
her  absence.  On  the  way  out  and  back  we  met  many 
striking  native  figures  in  the  most  bizarre  costumes, 
some  on  foot,  others  riding  scrubby-looking  little 
ponies  or  carabaos,  and  evidently  on  their  way  back 
from  the  market  near  the  school,  as  they  were  car- 
rying home  with  them  their  purchases  of  fish,  fruit, 
or  other  foods  wrapped  in  neat  packages  of  green  leaves. 
Kite  flying  seemed  to  be  a  popular  sport,  and  some  of 
the  kites  were  very  elaborate  and  strangely  shaped.  It 
was  almost  dark  when  we  reached  the  town  again  so 
there  was  time  for  only  a  hasty  glance  at  the  Chinese 
pier  and  at  some  of  the  shops. 

The  Moros  are  still  a  very  lawless  lot  and  it  is  not 
considered  safe  to  go  unarmed  far  into  the  interior. 
Like  other  members  of  the  Malay  race  they  are  subject 
to  a  peculiar  psychical  disturbance  as  the  result  of 
which,  after  a  preliminary  period  of  brooding  over  real 
or  fancied  wrongs,  the  individual  has  hallucinations 
of  the  appearance  of  devils  which  he  attempts  to  kill, 
is  seized  with  an  uncontrollable  impulse  to  murder  and 
1 '  runs  amuck ' '  attacking  with  his  kris  or  other  weapon 
all  who  come  in  his  way.    In  another  form  of  the  condi- 


America  in  the  Far  East  143 

tion  with  a  religious  basis  there  is  more  premeditation, 
the  individual  clothes  himself  in  white,  shaves  his  eye- 
brows, visits  the  mosque  and  as  a  religious  rite  dedicates 
himself  to  death  by  killing  as  many  Christians  as 
possible  before  he  himself  is  shot  down.  Since  actual 
suicide  is  practically  unknown  among  the  Malays,  it  is 
considered  that  the  phenomenon  of  meng  amok  for  the 
Malay  temperament  is  the  equivalent  of  what  in  per- 
sons of  other  races  would  be  the  impulse  to  commit 
suicide. 

Friday y  Jan.  27th.  Jolo  to  Batavia. — We  were  early 
ashore  in  order  to  see  a  little  more  of  what  are  probably 
the  least  civilized  people  we  shall  encounter.  At  the 
market  there  was  an  assemblage  that  for  variety  of 
types  and  costumes  would  make  the  most  extravagant 
fancy  dress  party  appear  tame  and  dull  by  comparison, 
and  the  fruits,  foods,  and  other  wares  offered  for  sale 
seemed  no  less  strange.  There  was  just  time  for  another 
brief  excursion  along  the  rickety  Chinese  pier  with  its 
swarming  mixture  of  brown  and  yellow-skinned  human- 
ity, and  at  ten  we  were  under  way  again,  leaving  the 
Sulu  sea  by  the  Sigboye  Channel,  and  passing  the  Tawi 
Tawi  group  of  islands  entered  the  Celebes  Sea.  Late 
in  the  afternoon  the  tops  of  the  palms  on  the  last  of  the 
coral  islands  faded  into  the  horizon  and  we  were  fairly 
started  on  the  long  run  to  Batavia.  Since  leaving 
Zamboanga  we  have  been  having  luncheon  and  dinner 
on  deck  which  is  a  very  pleasant  change,  though  so  far 
the  heat  has  not  been  at  all  oppressive. 

Saturday,   Jan.   28th.    Jolo  to  Batavia. — Although 


144  Aloha  Around  the  World 

we  are  so  far  south  it  has  not  been  uncomfortably  hot, 
and  at  dinner  time  when  the  equator  was  only  ninety 
miles  away  the  temperature  was  seventy-two  degrees. 
We  saw  the  coast  of  Borneo  at  five- forty  when  we  passed 
the  Myaros  Reef  light,  and  at  ten  we  sighted  the  light 
of  Mang  Kalibat.  A  Dutch  coasting  steamer,  the 
Simaloe  from  Balik  Papan  for  Hong  Kong  passed  us  at 
four-thirty  and  we  exchanged  greetings  by  radio. 

Lat.  2°.05'  N.,  Long.  II9°.02'  E.  Distance  since 
five  p.m.  yesterday,  205  miles. 

Sunday,  Jan.  2gih.  Strait  of  Macassar. — This  morn- 
ing at  ^.ve  Aloha  crossed  the  equator,  an  uneventful 
performance  without  even  a  toot  of  the  whistle  to  mark 
the  transition  from  north  latitude  to  south.  The  sea  is 
smooth  and  a  four  knot  current  is  hurrying  us  on  so 
that  we  are  overrunning  the  log.  At  dinner  time  we 
sighted  Aru  Bank  light  and  found  that  this  same  current 
had  carried  us  twelve  miles  to  the  eastward  of  our  course 
so  that  unwittingly  we  had  passed  between  some  ugly 
reefs  only  two  miles  apart.  A  heavy  rain  squall  made 
it  impossible  to  see  in  any  direction  and  as  the  buoy  at 
Panukan  was  not  lighted  as  it  should  have  been,  it 
seemed  wiser  not  to  adventure  further  in  these  reef- 
infested  and  inaccurately  charted  waters,  so  at  one- 
thirty  we  anchored  not  far  from  a  coasting  steamer  that 
had  evidently  come  to  the  same  decision. 

Lat.  i°.o  S.,  Long.  Ii7°.3i'  E.    Distance  200  miles. 

Monday,  Jan.  30th.  Pulo  Laut. — At  daylight  we 
started  again  and  picked  our  way  down  the  coast  till 
the  northern  end  of  Pulo  Laut  came  in  sight,  and  enter- 


o 

o 

< 

'5. 

55 

o 

< 

Si 

O 

o 

g 

•5 

C 

« 

c 

u 

55 

rt 

ti 

u 

W 

0) 

Q 

en 

> 

v- 

£J 

'3 

O 

1 

a 

S 

a 

> 

H 

c 

<C 

_rt 

X 

3 

America  in  the  Far  East  145 

ing  the  channel  between  this  island  and  Borneo  ran 
down  as  far  as  Kota  Baru,  where  we  anchored  at  ten 
o'clock.  This  is  a  village  of  several  thousand  natives, 
but  only  two  or  three  white  people,  and  on  going  ashore 
to  make  inquiries  we  found  that,  as  we  had  expected,  the 
coaling  station  is  at  Stagen,  a  few  miles  further  down 
the  channel.  The  latter  is  only  a  coaling  dock  with  a 
few  native  huts,  connected  with  the  mine  at  See  Bigan, 
five  miles  inland  by  a  steam  tramline.  As  the  coaling 
was  started  it  began  to  rain  heavily,  as  it  does  every 
day  at  this  season,  but  at  about  three-thirty  we  went 
back  to  Kota  Baru  in  the  launch,  taking  with  us  a  very 
intelligent  young  Chinese  Mr.  Teng  Djoe,  who  is  the 
comprador  for  the  coolies  that  were  putting  the  coal  on 
board.  In  spite  of  the  downpour  we  saw  something  of 
the  town  which  was  composed  of  neat  little  houses,  some 
with  pretty  gardens  and  all  with  large  verandas  which  in 
the  better  type  were  furnished  with  chairs,  tables,  grow- 
ing plants,  and  pictures  on  the  walls.  Our  newly  made 
friend  took  us  to  the  house  of  his  father-in-law,  Mr. 
Oeij  Seng  Tjin,  who  received  us  hospitably  and  invited 
us  to  help  celebrate  the  Chinese  New  Year  by  opening 
a  bottle  of  champagne.  The  natives  are  all  Mohamme- 
dans except  some  of  the  storekeepers  who  are  Chinese, 
and  the  costumes  are  much  like  those  we  saw  in  Jolo 
except  that  they  are  not  quite  so  extravagant  in  cut  and 
color.  Although  the  rain  continued  we  motored  up  to 
the  mine  through  wonderfully  luxuriant  vegetation, 
past  crocodile  inhabited  swamps,  and  when  we  saw 
monkeys  skipping  across  the  road  ahead  of  us  we  felt 


146  Aloha  Around  the  World 

that  this  really  was  Borneo.  At  the  mine  there  are 
about  forty  white  employees  and  three  thousand  coolies 
and  the  little  town  was  neat  and  orderly,  with  concrete 
shower  baths  and  an  assembly  hall  for  the  workers, 
while  many  of  the  foreign  houses  looked  quite  attractive. 
Then  we  returned  to  Stagen  by  another  road,  stopping 
to  pick  some  of  the  beautiful  alamanda  flowers  growing 
in  great  profusion,  and  getting  back  to  the  yacht  at 
dusk. 


Moro  Fishermen's  Houses 

In  erecting  these  practical  dwellings  the  expense  of  excavating  a  cellar  is  entirely  eliminated. 


The  Main  Gate  of  Jolo 

Jolo,  the  capital  of  the  Sultan  of  Sulu,  is  the  smallest  walled  town  in  the  world,  its  ramparts 
measuring  just  one  kilometer  in  circumference. 


CHAPTER  VII 

JAVA,   THE  GARDEN  OF  THE  WORLD 

Tuesday,  Jan.  jist.  Java  Sea. — We  were  off  by 
daylight  but  to  our  disappointment  had  to  return  by 
the  way  we  came,  for  we  learned  that  the  channel  be- 
tween Laut  Island  and  Borneo  through  which  we  had 
hoped  to  pass  and  cut  off  about  forty  miles,  had  only 
sixteen  feet  of  water  and  would  be  impassable  for  Aloha 
except  at  high  tide.  After  breakfast  we  discussed  plans, 
and  as  it  seemed  more  sensible  to  stop  at  Soerabaia  and 
then  send  the  yacht  on  to  Batavia  rather  than  to  make 
the  longer  passage  to  the  latter  place  direct  and  then 
have  to  retrace  our  steps  on  land,  we  decided  to  head  at 
once  for  Soerabaia  and  the  course  was  changed  accord- 
ingly. During  the  day  we  sailed  by  Sebuku  Island,  and 
late  in  the  afternoon  Laut  Island  disappeared  from  the 
horizon  and  we  entered  the  Java  Sea.  It  remains 
astonishingly  cool,  so  much  so  that  on  deck  the  ladies 
sometimes  send  for  wraps,  and  the  nights  are  perfectly 
comfortable. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  ist.  Java  Sea. — The  distance  re- 
maining to  Soerabaia  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
and  we  should  reach  there  some  time  tomorrow  after- 
noon. In  the  morning  there  was  a  heavy  squall  and  all 
day  it  has  been  partly  cloudy  with  a  very  choppy  sea. 

147 


148  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Lat.    6°.o8   S.,    Long.    ii4°.3o/    E.    Distance   180 

miles. 

Thursday,  Feb.  2d.  Soerabaia. — This  morning  we 
have  been  running  along  the  shore  of  Madoera  Island 
and  approaching  Soerabaia.  Shortly  after  lunch  we 
passed  the  lightship  picking  up  the  pilot  at  this  point, 
but  it  is  twenty  miles  further  to  the  harbor  and  it  was 
nearly  five  when  we  finally  dropped  anchor.  In  the 
harbor  we  were  interested  to  see  a  new  type  of  fishing 
boat  built  with  the  keelson  carried  forward  and  aft  so 
that  it  projects  several  feet  beyond  both  bow  and  stern. 
The  boats  are  very  gaily  painted  with  ornamental  scroll 
work  in  bright  colors  and  with  their  triangular  lateen 
sails  make  great  speed.  The  oars  are  also  peculiar, 
having  a  very  short  rounded  blade  like  a  paddle.  It  is 
a  twenty  minutes  motor  ride  from  the  port  to  the  town 
and  we  found  our  first  glimpse  of  Java  very  interesting. 
Automobiles  were  numerous  but  there  were  also  plenty 
of  "my  lords, "  very  low  barouches  with  a  pole  far  too 
long  for  the  two  tiny  ponies  that  draw  them,  and  in- 
numerable little  two  wheeled  carts  called  dos-a-dos,  ab- 
breviated to  sadoe  in  popular  parlance,  and  holding  four 
people.  The  town  was  a  great  surprise  in  its  size  and 
prosperous  appearance.  Second  only  to  Batavia,  it 
has  a  population  of  over  a  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
and  the  streets  were  lined  with  foreign  shops,  numerous 
department  stores,  opulent  looking  jewelry  establish- 
ments, music  stores,  chemist  shops,  etc.,  all  of  them 
most  spacious  with  fine  window  displays,  and  brilliantly 
illuminated.     The  native  costumes  were  picturesque 


2       oB 

«         £     ° 


£  S 
.S  c 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     149 

in  the  extreme,  but  there  will  be  more  to  say  about 
these  later. 

Friday,  Feb.  3rd.  Soerabaia. — Today  we  have 
crossed  another  imaginary  line — that  dividing  Java 
from  the  rest  of  the  world,  for  it  hardly  seems  possible 
that  there  can  be  any  other  spot  to  be  compared  with 
this  enchanting  island,  so  fertile,  so  full  of  color,  so 
studded  with  volcanoes,  so  crowded  with  industrious 
little  brown  people ;  where  life  seems  so  easy  and  yet  so 
busy,  and  where  every  journey  is  through  a  continuous 
panorama  of  beauty  and  interest .  As  soon  as  one  leaves 
the  city  one  enters  a  new  world,  peopled  by  the  most 
attractively  dressed  natives  we  have  yet  seen.  The 
sarong  is  an  ideal  garment  for  comfort  and  convenience ; 
made  of  a  strip  of  batik  about  three  feet  wide  and  six 
feet  long  it  appears  in  an  infinite  variety  of  designs, 
some  gay  and  brightly  figured  in  pink  or  blue  or  green, 
others  dull  and  subdued  in  brown  and  indigo.  The 
women  always  wear  it  as  a  skirt  but  the  men  often  throw 
it  up  out  of  the  way  over  the  shoulder  like  a  scarf,  re- 
vealing the  fantastic  patterns  of  the  cotton  trousers 
underneath.  As  head  covering  the  men  use  squares  of 
similar  material  twisted  into  a  turban  and  knotted 
behind  with  the  two  ends  sticking  out  jauntily  on  either 
side,  and  to  put  on  this  kam  kapala  properly  takes  both 
skill  and  time.  The  women  wear  bright  colored  jackets 
called  kabayas  and  over  their  shoulders  drape  the 
slendang,  a  scarf  useful  for  carrying  packages  or  a  baby, 
which  is  placed  astride  the  hip  and  not  over  the  back 
as  in  Japan.     After  a  morning  spent  in  getting  a  little 


iSo  Aloha  Around  the  World 

better  acquainted  with  Soerabaia's  streets  and  the  fas- 
cinating life  that  fills  them  we  lunched  at  the  Oranje 
Hotel  and  then  took  the  road  for  Tosari,  Java's  most 
famous  mountain  resort  about  sixty  miles  to  the  south- 
east .  As  far  as  the  little  town  of  Pasoerean  and  for  some 
distance  beyond,  the  road  runs  through  flat  farming 
country  where  sugar  cane  and  rice  are  grown — but  such 
country,  greener  than  any  green  one  has  ever  seen  before, 
dotted  with  waving  palm  trees,  and  with  houses  of 
woven  bamboo  all  along  the  way,  swarming  with  naked 
children,  brown,  fat,  and  smiling.  In  the  paddy  fields 
or  sawahs  and  along  the  roads  are  the  gray  water 
buffalos,  ungainly  brutes  with  narrow  heads  all  out  of 
drawing  in  proportion  to  the  huge  bodies,  often  with 
little  naked  boys  perched  on  their  backs,  or  else  drawing 
covered  carts  with  wheels  six  feet  in  diameter  and 
poles  four  or  five  feet  high  sticking  straight  up  from  the 
yoke  and  carrying  a  circle  of  little  bells.  Beyond  Poespo 
the  road  rises  rapidly  and  winds  with  sharp  turns  up 
the  hills  through  a  continuous  flower  garden  set  with 
orchids,  nasturtiums,  Ian  tana,  great  masses  of  poinsettia, 
clusters  of  nodding  datura  bells  and  morning  glories, 
and  whole  trees  of  gardenias  and  heliotrope,  with  high 
Australian  pines  towering  over  all — until  at  Tosari  one 
reaches  an  altitude  of  six  thousand  feet.  The  narrow 
mountain  road  is  really  a  one  way  street,  for  motors  may 
go  up  only  during  certain  hours  in  the  afternoon  and 
are  allowed  to  descend  only  in  the  morning.  During 
the  journey  there  were  several  showers  and  on  reaching 
the  pleasant  hotel  at  the  summit  we  found  clouds  filling 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     151 

the  valleys  so  that  there  were  only  occasional  glimpses 
through  the  rifts,  of  the  plains  below  and  of  the  distant 
ocean. 

Saturday,  Feb.  4th.  Tosari. — Today  began  almost 
before  yesterday  stopped,  for  we  rose  at  three -thirty 
and  at  four  were  in  the  saddle  on  our  way  to  the  volcano 
Bromo.  This  sounds  rather  more  strenuous  than  the 
reality,  for  those  who  rode  never  moved  faster  than  a 
walk,  and  the  ladies  entered  sedan  chairs,  even  though 
according  to  a  local  guide  book  these  are  to  be  regarded 
as  "infernal  machines"  and  the  "last  resort  of  the 
aged  and  infirm."  But  the  ponies  though  small  were 
willing  little  creatures,  and  the  chairs  had  eight  bearers 
each,  and  as  we  moved  off  in  inky  blackness  with  the 
Southern  Cross  standing  upright  in  the  heavens  ahead 
of  us,  it  seemed  as  if  we  were  undertaking  quite  an  ad- 
venture. The  path  rose  steadily  and  led  through  sleep- 
ing villages  and  dense  forests,  and  as  it  grew  lighter  we 
could  see  the  steeply  slanting  corn  fields  of  the  Teng- 
gerese  clinging  to  the  almost  vertical  slopes  of  the  hills 
which  are  cultivated  to  their  very  summits.  This  tribe 
of  mountaineers  is  about  five  thousand  in  number  and 
has  refused  to  adopt  Mohammedanism,  still  adhering 
to  their  ancient  Hindu  faith  and  never  mingling  with 
the  plainsmen.  At  seven  we  were  on  the  edge  of  the 
crater,  nine  thousand  feet  above  the  sea,  five  miles  in 
diameter,  and  with  its  level  floor  called  the  Sand  Sea  a 
thousand  feet  below.  Ahead  of  us  rose  the  beautiful 
symmetrical  cone  of  Batok  partly  concealing  the  active 
crater  of  Bromo,  from  which  dense  clouds  of  poisonous- 


152  Aloha  Around  the  World 

looking  black  smoke  rolled  out,  most  ominous  in  appear- 
ance. Here  we  had  breakfast  and  then  went  part  way 
down  Moengal  pass  to  see  the  Sand  Sea  from  a  lower 
level  before  turning  back.  The  return  journey  was  very 
lovely  in  the  bright  sunshine  through  the  forests  and 
we  reached  the  hotel  again  by  ten.  We  started  back 
while  the  road  was  still  open  for  descent  and  soon 
realized  that  this  was  indeed  the  rainy  season  for  there 
was  a  constant  succession  of  drenching  showers,  but  we 
were  in  Soerabaia  once  more  at  four-thirty.  Fluff  and  I 
went  on  an  exploring  expedition  and  found  a  pretty 
residential  section  of  the  town  with  attractive  little 
houses  all  built  in  the  usual  way  with  a  veranda  living- 
room  and  with  charming  gardens.  The  eight  o'clock 
dinner  hour  seemed  very  long  in  arriving  and  after  the 
meal  was  over  we  lost  no  time  in  retiring  to  our  spring- 
less  beds,  devoid  of  even  a  sheet  for  covering,  but 
provided  with  an  extra  bolster  called  a  Dutch  wife  or 
Gretchen,  and  a  bundle  of  twigs  with  which  to  expel  any 
stray  mosquitoes  still  lurking  inside  the  curtains. 

Sunday,  Feb.  5th.  Djokjakarta. — Travel  here  means 
early  hours  and  though  the  train  for  Djokjakarta  left  at 
five -fifty-four  it  was  already  crowded.  The  morning 
was  cool  and  pleasant  and  along  the  way  stretched  wide 
cane  plantations  and  paddy  fields,  most  of  the  latter 
laid  out  in  large  symmetrical  rectangles  instead  of  in  the 
small  irregular  picture-puzzle  outlines  of  Japan  and 
China.  As  we  approached  the  interior  the  colors  of  the 
native  dress  became  more  subdued,  and  blue  predomi- 
nated, for  this  is  one  of  the  indigo  raising  regions  of  the 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     153 

island.  At  eleven -thirty  we  reached  Djokjakarta  whose 
name  means  "Blooming  Night"  and  retired  to  our 
rooms  in  the  Grand  Hotel  to  cool  off  before  lunch.  Most 
hotels  in  Java  are  built  on  the  same  plan  with  a  central 
building  containing  the  dining  room  and  office,  while 
the  bed  rooms  are  arranged  in  separate  wings  running 
in  horseshoe  shape  around  the  center  group.  Here  we 
had  separate  little  houses,  each  containing  two  bed 
rooms,  a  bath  room  and  of  course  the  inevitable  veranda 
to  lounge  in  en  deshabille  for  one  never  remains  inside 
the  room  except  when  dressing  or  sleeping.  The  tubless 
bath  room  or  rather  splash  room,  has  a  cement  floor  and 
a  tank  in  the  corner  from  which  one  takes  dipperfuls  of 
water  to  dash  over  the  person,  a  simple  but  entirely 
satisfactory  bathing  arrangement.  In  the  afternoon  it 
rained,  but  we  contrived  to  get  in  some  walks  between 
showers  and  in  the  meantime  managed  to  communicate 
by  'phone  with  the  Joe  Smiths  at  Boroboedoer.  It 
appeared  that  none  of  the  several  telegrams  sent  to 
them  had  ever  been  delivered  and  they  were  quite  as 
much  mystified  by  the  lack  of  news  as  we  were,  but  at 
tea  time  they  came  dashing  up  in  a  motor  and  we  were 
all  delighted  that  the  meeting  so  long  planned  for  had 
finally  been  effected. 

Monday,  Feb.  6th.  Djokjakarta. — Java's  rainy  season 
is  not  a  mere  figure  of  speech,  it  has  been  a  demned, 
moist,  disagreeable  reality  all  day,  as  Mr.  Mantellini  fjtffSA*  / 
might  say.  Jake  posted  off  to  the  residence  of  the 
governor  at  eight  o'clock  to  see  whether  it  was  not 
possible  to  relax  the  cast  iron  rule  that  visitors  may  be 


154  Aloha  Around  the  World 

admitted  to  the  Sultan's  palace  only  on  Fridays. 
Whether  it  was  Jake's  own  personality  or  the  fact  that 
in  one  letter  of  introduction  he  was  referred  to  as 
Commodore  will  never  be  known,  but  the  result  of  the 
interview  was  that  a  special  permission  was  granted 
with  the  proviso  that  we  must  go  at  once,  as  the  Sultan 
was  to  hold  an  audience  a  little  later  in  the  morning. 
This  potentate,  whose  dominions  by  grace  of  the  Dutch 
government  extend  over  an  area  of  about  forty  square 
miles,  lives  in  pomp  and  pride  inside  of  a  palace,  or 
kraton,  which  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  fifteen  feet  high 
and  four  miles  in  circumference.  Within  is  a  real  town 
with  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants,  including  the  Sultan's 
immediate  family  and  retainers,  guards,  and  an  enor- 
mous number  of  dependents.  In  the  first  courtyard  or 
aloon-aloon  are  two  waringen  trees  of  great  size  and  age 
called  the  trees  of  judgment,  under  whose  branches 
prisoners  are  kept  sometimes  for  days  without  food, 
until  the  Sultan  is  pleased  to  sit  in  judgment.  A  little 
further  on  is  the  execution  hall  where  the  prisoner  if 
condemned  is  stabbed  to  death  in  the  presence  of  the 
Sultan,  if  he  has  money  enough  to  pay  for  this  expensive 
but  glorious  form  of  exit,  otherwise  he  is  killed  off-hand 
in  some  obscure  corner  without  any  alleviating  honors 
to  make  the  passing  less  disagreeable.  Still  further  on 
were  audience  halls,  state  reception  rooms,  etc.,  roofed 
over  but  with  open  sides,  and  at  one  point  as  we  stood 
and  gazed  about,  the  ladies  of  the  harem,  quite  young 
and  nice  looking,  took  turns  in  peeking  at  us  around  the 
corner  of  a  screen.    Altogether  it  was  an  interesting 


On  the  Road  to  Bromo 

The  Javanese  are  an  active  and  good-natured  race,  though  srrall  and  not  very  strong.    Each 
of  these  chairs  required  eight  bearers  to  carry  it. 


Native  House  in  Eastern  Java 

The  villages  and  houses  are  always  clean  and  neat,  and  present  a  well-kept  appearance. 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     155 

glimpse  into  a  manner  of  life  which  still  exists  in  only 
very  few  places.     The  Water  Castle  is  a  delightful 
tumble-down  affair  of  gray  stone  in  a  garden  of  richest 
tropical  growth,  and  though  much  of  the  old  moat  has 
been  filled  in,  the  buildings  are  moss  covered  ruins,  and 
skeptics  even  doubt  the  existence  of  the  famous  sub- 
terranean passages,  it  is  a  romantic  place  full  of  sugges- 
tions of  former  splendors,  intrigues,  and  revels.    After 
visiting  a  factory  to  see  the  various  stages  in  the  design- 
ing and  dyeing  of  batik,  we  finished  the  morning  in  the 
arts  and  crafts  museum.    After  lunch  the  rain  tempor- 
arily ceased,  permitting  a  visit  to  the  ruins  of  the  Hindu 
temples  at  Brambanan.     Although  the  passing  cen- 
turies and  earthquake  shocks  have  almost  levelled  these 
interesting  records  of  the  time,  fifteen  or  sixteen  hundred 
years  ago,  when  Hindu  influence  was  at  its  height  and 
magnificent  temples  on  a  vast  scale  were  erected  here, 
at  Boroboedoer,  the  Dieng  plateau,  and  in  several  other 
parts  of  the  island,  enough  remains  of  the  temple  at 
Tjandi  Loro  Djonggrang  to  be  very  impressive.    Before 
dinner  there  was  a  most  diverting  Javanese  dance  for 
our  benefit  with  an  orchestra  of  drums,  cymbals,  and 
the  famous  gamelan,  operated  chiefly  by  children,  and 
with  ten  actors  in  the  most  bizarre  costumes  who  pre- 
sented a  long  pantomimic  performance  that  was  a 
strange  mixture  of  the  serious  and  of  extravagant 
buffoonery,  but  which  in  costume  and  action  was  in 
accordance  with  ancient  conventions  and  traditions 
that  are  always  strictly  adhered  to. 

Tuesday,    Feb.   ?th.    Boroboedoer  and   Wonosobo. — 


156  Aloha  Around  the  World 

During  the  night  the  rain  continued  but  by  the  time  we 
were  under  way  at  seven  o'clock  the  skies  began  to  clear 
and  the  ride  past  fields  of  rice,  indigo,  sugar  cane,  and 
tobacco  or  through  long,  cool  tunnels  of  green  was  very 
beautiful.  Again  we  were  impressed  by  the  throngs  of 
people  in  the  fields,  about  the  kampongs,  or  on  the  high- 
way, and  one  can  readily  believe  that  next  to  Belgium, 
Java  is  the  most  densely  populated  country  in  the  world, 
for  on  this  island,  having  an  area  about  equal  to  that  of 
the  State  of  New  York,  over  thirty  million  people  live 
in  prosperity  and  comfort.  The  coy  Merapi  that  at  this 
season  is  nearly  always  veiled  in  clouds  emerged  for  our 
benefit,  and  its  perfect  cone,  equal  to  that  of  Fuji  in 
symmetry,  looked  very  striking  with  a  white  smoke 
plume  streaming  from  its  apex.  The  first  stop  was  at 
Tjandi  Mendoet,  a  fairly  well  preserved  pagoda  seventy 
feet  in  height  and  containing  a  remarkably  fine  image 
of  Buddha  which  is  noteworthy  in  that  the  figure  is 
seated  with  the  legs  hanging  down  instead  of  being  in 
its  usual  position.  From  here  it  was  only  a  short  dis- 
tance to  the  Boroboedoer,  to  which  we  had  been  looking 
forward  for  weeks,  with  expectations  far  short  of  the 
reality.  After  passing  through  a  long  avenue  of  stately 
kanari  trees  one's  first  glimpse  of  Tjandi  Boroboedoer, 
which  means  "Shrine  of  the  many  Buddhas"  is  of  a 
huge  gray  mound,  which  as  one  draws  nearer  gradually 
resolves  itself  into  one  of  the  most  impressive  structures 
which  the  spirit  of  devotion  has  ever  led  man  to  erect 
in  an  attempt  to  satisfy  his  aspirations  for  the  unknown. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  been  begun  in  the  ninth  century, 


Approaching  the  Boroboedoer 


Through  an  avenue  of  magnificent  kanari  trees  one  approache?  the  Boroboedoer.  In  this 
view  the  apex  of  the  building  is  visible  above  the  tops  of  the  trees  over  the  heads  of  the  walking 
women. 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     157 

when  Buddhism  was  the  dominant  influence  in  Java, 
but  five  hundred  years  later  when  this  faith  was  sup- 
planted by  Mohammedanism  the  shrine  was  either 
covered  over  by  its  votaries  to  conceal  it,  or  as  some 
authorities  believe,  was  simply  buried  by  volcanic 
detritus  from  Merapi.  Opinions  differ  on  this  point, 
but  at  any  rate  through  centuries  it  remained  forgotten 
and  unknown,  till  the  time  of  the  English  occupation 
of  Java  early  in  1800  when  Sir  Stamford  Raffles  caused 
it  to  be  unearthed,  and  since  then  the  Dutch  govern- 
ment has  taken  pains  to  restore  it  and  keep  it  in  repair. 
Shaped  like  a  rather  flattened  cone  it  is  a  veritable  hill 
of  elaborately  sculptured  stone,  and  its  nine  galleries 
mount  one  above  the  other,  growing  concentrically 
smaller  till  at  the  apex  rises  the  central  dome  surrounded 
by  its  circles  of  dagobas,  seventy-two  in  all,  each  con- 
taining in  its  bell-shaped  interior  and  partly  concealed 
by  the  massive  stone  lattice-work,  a  life-size  figure  of 
Buddha.  The  five  lower  galleries  are  enclosed  by  double 
walls  between  which  is  a  space  six  or  seven  feet  wide, 
and  on  these  pages  of  enduring  stone  the  early  sculptors 
recorded  with  mallet  and  chisel  the  life  story  of  Gau- 
tama in  a  series  of  wonderfully  executed  bas-reliefs,  said 
to  measure  about  three  miles  in  length,  while  above 
them  are  niches,  over  four  hundred  in  number,  in  each 
of  which  a  life  size  Buddha  is  enthroned.  But  figures 
and  dimensions  mean  nothing  in  connection  with  this 
marvel  of  ancient  artistic  inspiration,  which  has  been 
appropriately  called  a  "sacred  volume  written  in  vol- 
canic stone";  covering  an  area  as  large  as  that  of  the 


158  Aloha  Around  the  World 

great  pyramid  and  representing  an  amount  of  labor  in 
the  execution  of  its  innumerable  statues  and  carvings 
that  absolutely  staggers  the  imagination.  Joe  Smith 
who  for  three  weeks  has  been  here  painting  the  bas- 
reliefs,  pointed  out  some  of  its  beauties  in  detail,  but  the 
lasting  impression  is  that  of  the  glorious  view  from  its 
summit,  of  the  palm  trees  and  rice  fields  and  the  soaring 
nearby  mountains,  and  of  the  religious  fervor  that 
reared  this  stupendous  mass  of  stone  and  fashioned  it 
into  one  of  the  most  richly  ornamented  buildings  that 
the  world  has  ever  seen. 

After  luncheon  our  party,  now  increased  to  eight  by 
the  addition  of  Joe  and  Corinna,  went  through  Mage- 
lang  to  Wonosobo,  over  a  constantly  rising  road  with 
views  that  were  charming  and  magnificent  by  turns, 

even  though  low-lying  clouds  concealed  the  mountain 

I 

tops.  We  reached  the  comfortable  Dieng  Hotel  at 
about  four  o'clock  and  then  had  time  for  a  walk  through 
the  pretty  little  town  with  a  lovely  common  or  aloon- 
aloon  and  an  interesting  market-place,  where  business 
was  still  going  on  briskly  and  we  heard  some  rather 
melancholy  but  melodious  music  played  on  pipes  of 
bamboo  by  an  itinerant  orchestra. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  8  th.  Wonosobo  to  Cheribon. — This 
has  been  a  noteworthy  day.  In  the  first  place  it  did  not 
rain,  and  in  the  second  place  we  made  an  uninterrupted 
run  of  one  hundred  and  eighty  miles  through  one  of  the 
prettiest  agricultural  regions  of  the  island.  We  are 
becoming  accustomed  to  the  early  starts.  Before  the 
sun  got  very  high  it  was  delightfully  cool,  and  even 


•5  ^ 


(U  o 

o  _. 

o  > 

m  % 


o    " 


s c 

o    c 

5  3 
3  ? 


a'Bj 

O    o    ^ 
„>    <u    « 

o-  H  X 


I     «     * 

U     ^      4) 


J3    rt 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     159 

later  on  there  was  no  discomfort  for  the  road  ran  be- 
tween rows  of  trees  whose  interlacing  branches  kept  it  in 
constant  shade.  For  much  of  the  time  we  passed 
through  rolling  country  terraced  with  rice  fields  whose 
waters  ran  from  level  to  level  in  tiny  splashing  rivulets, 
and  there  were  frequent  streams  in  which  brown  urchins 
bathed  or  fished  while  their  mothers  did  the  family 
wash.  At  Boemiajoi  we  all  got  quite  a  turn,  for  a  man 
balancing  his  load  of  yams  on  the  usual  dong  stick 
became  bewildered  and  ran  right  in  front  of  one  of  the 
motors  and  was  knocked  down.  For  a  moment  it 
seemed  as  if  a  bad  accident  had  occurred  but  he  quickly 
scrambled  to  his  feet,  none  the  worse  except  for  a  bad 
fright  and  the  damage  to  his  vegetables,  which  were 
scattered  broadcast  over  the  road.  It  had  been  the 
intention  to  lunch  at  Tegal  but  it  was  two  o'clock  when 
this  place  was  reached  and  no  meal  was  ready  at  the 
hotel,  so  we  stayed  our  hunger  with  mangosteens,  ram- 
butans,  bananas,  and  coconuts  by  the  wayside  and 
decided  to  push  on  to  Cheribon.  The  road  now  turned 
westward  parallel  with  the  coast  through  flat  and  rather 
uninteresting  country,  and  brought  us  to  Cheribon  at 
four.  This  pretty  name  means  "City  of  Shrimps"  but 
it  might  better  be  "City  of  Mosquitoes"  for  these 
abound  and  it  seemed  very  hot  and  stuffy  in  the  hotel, 
which  is  the  least  attractive  we  have  stopped  at.  The 
town  itself  has  little  charm  though  some  of  the  many 
Chinese  who  live  and  prosper  here  have  elaborately 
decorated  houses,  much  prettier  than  any  we  saw  in 
China. 


160  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Thursday,  Feb.  gih.  Garoet. — It  is  a  curious  thing 
how  many  differences  in  the  customs  and  appearance  of 
the  people  one  observes  in  going  from  one  section  of 
the  island  to  another.  Today  as  we  traveled  from  the 
coast  to  the  interior  the  houses  became  quite  different, 
were  more  solidly  built,  often  had  verandas  with  lattice, 
railings,  and  shutters  with  slats.  Black,  shallow, 
covered  baskets  containing  live  fish  appeared  along  the 
road,  the  carts  were  painted  white  with  black  ornamen- 
tation, the  sarongs  and  kabayas  became  gayer  in  color, 
the  men  more  frequently  wore  moustaches,  the  people 
as  a  whole  were  handsomer,  and  in  the  neighborhood 
of  Garoet  were  chiefly  Sundanese  and  spoke  this  lang- 
uage instead  of  Malay.  Garoet  is  a  delightful  little 
town  with  the  most  comfortable  and  attractive  hotel, 
the  Ngamplang,  we  have  found  yet.  It  is  on  a  hill  some 
distance  from  the  town,  and  from  the  terrace  three 
thousand  feet  above  sea  level,  on  which  all  our  rooms 
open,  there  is  a  magnificent  view  of  the  valley  and  of 
the  mountains,  with  Tjikoeraj  and  Papandajan,  seven 
to  eight  thousand  feet  high,  dominating  the  panorama. 
The  rain  held  off  until  the  afternoon,  and  all  morning 
the  by-roads  over  which  we  traveled  for  most  of  the 
hundred  and  thirty  miles  wound  over  the  hills  and  down 
the  valleys,  often  through  forests  but  most  of  the  time 
past  paddy-terraces,  and  always  with  things  of  interest 
to  see.  Once  an  itinerant  umbrella  vender  came  along 
from  whom  we  bought  some  of  his  gaily  painted  wares, 
and  a  little  later  at  the  summit  of  a  hill  with  a  splendid 
outlook  we  found  the  buildings  of  a  tea  garden  whose 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     161 

deep  green  expanses  stretched  for  miles.  After  lunch 
some  of  us  explored  the  town  and  in  the  exhibition  rooms 
of  the  Tourist  Bureau  found  local  products  of  batik, 
buffalo  horn  carvings,  brass  work,  and  fabrics  from 
Sumatra,  and  Joe  became  the  possessor  of  a  collection 
of  the  interesting  marionettes  representing  characters 
in  the  Javanese  folk  lore,  which  have  not  been  made  for 
over  fifty  years.  After  bargaining  for  more  batik  in  the 
shops  we  bought  some  fruit,  especially  a  lot  of  the  de- 
lightful pineapples  that  are  sold  here  for  two  cents  each, 
and  even  considered  the  purchase  of  a  durian,  but  Simon 
the  courier,  had  warned  us  that  the  odor  of  this  tropi- 
cal gas  bomb  was  so  terrific  that  the  only  time  it  could 
be  eaten  was  out  of  doors  at  the  hour  when  most  of  the 
inhabitants  were  taking  their  siesta,  and  when  we  got 
within  ten  feet  of  one  in  the  market  we  decided  that 
Simon  was  right  and  returned  to  the  hotel  without  it. 
Friday,  Feb.  ioth.  Garoet. — The  others  were  lazy 
but  Joe  and  I  rose  betimes  and  after  an  hour's  motor 
ride  through  sleeping  villages  and  past  the  early  toilers 
going  to  their  work  in  the  fields,  as  dawn  was  breaking 
reached  the  Villa  Pauline  at  Tjisoeroepan.  Here  we 
changed  to  horses  and  started  up  the  trail  to  the  crater 
of  Papandajan.  For  the  first  mile  or  two  the  path  rose 
gradually  through  lovely  banks  of  green,  gay  with 
lantana,  hibiscus,  morning  glories,  datura,  poinsettias, 
and  roses,  but  soon  it  became  rough  and  rougher,  like  a 
real  Arizona  mountain  trail  and  climbed  so  steeply  that 
the  tough  little  ponies  had  to  scramble  like  goats  over 

the  jagged  boulders  and  we  had  much  ado  to  keep  from 
u 


1 62  Aloha  Around  the  World 

slipping  off  over  their  tails.  As  we  neared  the  summit, 
whiffs  of  sulphur  tainted  air  blew  in  our  faces,  and 
finally  we  entered  the  great  breach  in  the  mountain 
wall  made  in  1772  when  the  top  of  the  volcano  was 
blown  off  by  a  terrific  eruption  that  destroyed  many 
villages  and  killed  three  thousand  people.  The  view 
backward  of  the  mountains  in  the  direction  from  which 
we  had  come  was  superb,  but  ahead  was  desolation ;  gray 
rocks,  from  whose  clefts  rose  roaring  pillars  of  smoke  and 
steam,  and  yellow  sulphur  patches  incandescent  from 
the  heat  of  the  gases  pouring  out  from  the  depths  below* 
Pools  of  boiling  muddy  water  sent  up  clouds  of  steam, 
and  while  not  to  be  compared  with  Kilauea  for  grandeur 
and  immensity,  the  place  was  awesome  enough.  At 
eleven-fifteen  we  were  back  at  the  hotel  and  starting 
for  Garoet,  but  had  not  gone  more  than  a  few  miles 
when  something  went  wrong  with  the  ignition  of  the 
car  and  after  we  had  waited  patiently  for  more  than  a 
half  hour  with  no  evidence  of  any  improvement  in  the 
situation  we  decided  to  walk  on.  Though  it  was  mid- 
day and  nearly  on  the  equator  it  was  not  especially 
hot,  and  after  about  twenty  minutes  we  discovered  a 
sa doe  which  trundled  us  merrily  in  the  course  of  a  couple 
of  hours  back  to  Garoet.  The  others  had  spent  the 
morning  going  to  Lake  Bagendit,  Lake  Leles,  and  the 
hot  springs  at  Tjipanas,  and  in  the  afternoon  Joe  and  I 
repeated  the  trip.  At  Lake  Bagendit  the  native  children 
bring  lotus  flowers  and  dance  and  play  curious  instru- 
ments of  bamboo  that  make  rather  pretty  music,  and 
it  is  very  droll  to  see  the  little  urchins  take  their  per- 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     163 

formance  so  seriously.  The  water  for  the  baths  at 
Tjipanas,  which  is  said  to  have  radio-active  properties, 
comes  from  the  mountain  at  a  high  temperature,  but 
in  the  big  swimming  pools  it  is  cooled  down  enough  to 
make  bathing  very  refreshing. 

Saturday,  Feb.  nth.  Buitenzorg. — The  colors  of  the 
sunrise  were  still  in  the  sky  as  we  started  on  the  one 
hundred  and  forty-five  mile  run  to  Buitenzorg,  and  it 
was  so  cool  that  wraps  were  welcome.  From  Garoet 
to  Bandoeng  the  road  crosses  a  fairly  level  plain  and 
for  a  time  we  lost  sight  of  the  mountains.  Bandoeng, 
the  fifth  largest  city  of  Java,  is  full  of  spick  and 
span  concrete  dwellings  of  rather  art  nouveauish  type, 
and  all  with  their  verandas  furnished  exactly  alike ;  a 
few  blue  plates  on  the  walls,  some  hanging  shelves  for 
small,  shiny  brass  vases,  and  a  picture  or  two;  the  floor 
space  crowded  with  chairs,  tables,  and  china  pedestals 
for  flower  pots.  After  a  supplementary  breakfast  at 
the  inviting  looking  hotel,  we  kept  on  and  though  one 
of  the  cars  had  to  stop  three  times  to  change  punctured 
tires,  reached  Buitenzorg  at  about  one  o'clock.  From 
Bandoeng  on  the  scenery  increased  in  interest  again 
as  we  entered  more  hilly  country,  and  finally  mighty 
Salak  came  in  sight  shortly  before  our  arrival  at 
Buitenzorg.  A  new  feature  along  the  roadside  were  the 
poles  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high,  to  the  tops  of  which 
bird  cages  could  be  pulled  to  give  their  feathered 
tenants  a  better  view,  showing  a  degree  of  considera- 
tion for  their  comfort  which  reminds  one  of  the  man- 
darins in  Peking  who  take  their  avian  pets  for  walks. 


164  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Everyone  was  glad  of  a  little  rest  in  the  afternoon  and 
then  Harriet  and  William  went  to  the  botanical  garden 
which  they  have  been  talking  about  for  weeks,  and 
later  reported  that  it  was  quite  up  to  their  expecta- 
tions. Arthur  and  Joe  went  to  call  on  the  governor, 
while  Peter  and  I  walked  about  among  the  crowds 
gathered  to  see  the  parade  which  started  at  dusk  to 
wind  up  the  Chinese  New  Year.  The  streets  were 
jammed  with  natives  and  many  Europeans  too,  in 
front  of  the  Chinese  stores  were  tables  set  with  flowers 
and  lamps,  and  the  costumes  were  more  amusing  and 
colorful  than  ever.  The  women  were  adorned  with 
much  jewelry  chiefly  gold,  and  most  of  them  had  jackets 
of  bright-colored  gauzy  material  through  which  one 
could  see  the  close  fitting  bodices  they  wore  underneath, 
which  in  some  cases  were  elaborately  embroidered. 
Fluff  and  Corinna  had  the  best  view  of  the  parade  for 
they  went  off  by  themselves  and  were  entertained  by  a 
Chinese  family,  from  whose  veranda  they  saw  the  floats 
and  dragon  banners  go  by  to  the  accompaniment  of  fire 
crackers  and  music.  Rockets,  roman  candles,  bells, 
drums,  and  cymbals  added  to  the  excitement  of  this 
truly  Chinese  celebration  in  sleepy  little  Buitenzorg. 

Sunday,  Feb.  12th.  Buitenzorg. — This  Dutch  Sans 
Souci,  which  is  the  seat  of  government  for  the  island  and 
the  residence  of  the  Governor  General  is  a  charming 
town  with  well- shaded  streets  and  attractive  foreign 
houses.  Behind  the  hotel  rises  lofty  Salak,  and  the 
rooms  on  this  side  of  the  house  have  a  beautiful  view  of 
the  mountain  and  the  plain  between,  with  a  bamboo 


Javanese  Types 

A  group  of  workmen,  showing  different  ways  of  disposing  of  the  sarong  while  engaged  in 

active  labor. 


Rice  Fields 


A  characteristic  view  of  the  terraced  rice  fields,  covered  with  about  six  inches  of  water,  that 
form  a  common  feature  of  the  Javanese  landscape. 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     165 

native  village  by  the  side  of  the  swift  running  stream 
in  the  foreground.  Before  it  became  too  hot  we 
scattered  through  the  botanical  gardens,  some  of  us 
cutting  short  our  promenade  in  order  to  go  to  church. 
This  magnificent  park  which  has  been  more  than  a 
hundred  years  in  the  making  is  one  of  the  world's  most 
famous  botanical  collections,  and  quite  apart  from  its 
scientific  interest  and  value  it  is  delightful  to  loiter 
along  its  shady  walks  and  beside  the  pools  and  ponds 
where  float  the  lotus  and  the  great  leaves  and  splendid 
blooms  of  the  Victoria  Regia.  Nearby  is  also  the  in- 
teresting zoological  museum  with  complete  collections 
of  the  fauna  of  the  island,  which  seems  to  be  especially 
rich  in  birds  and  reptiles.  Peter  and  I  decided  to  go  on 
to  Weltevreden  before  lunch  and  took  up  our  abode  in 
the  Koningsplein  Hotel  which  is  quite  new  and  more 
comfortable  than  the  well  known  Hotel  des  Indes, 
though  less  attractively  situated.  Later  in  the  after- 
noon we  motored  to  the  old  town  of  Batavia  with  its 
canals  and  buildings  dating  back  to  the  early  days  of  the 
colony,  and  which  owing  to  its  unhealthy  situation  is 
given  over  entirely  to  business,  all  the  Europeans  living 
in  Weltevreden,  and  then  went  on  to  the  port,  Tandjong 
Priok  ten  miles  from  Weltevreden.  Here  we  saw  Aloha 
waiting  for  us  and  looking  very  trim  and  spotless  after 
the  furbishing  she  has  had  at  Soerabaia.  The  others 
arrived  before  dinner,  and  the  heat  of  the  evening  and 
the  night  made  us  think  regretfully  of  the  cool  mountain 
heights  in  which  we  have  spent  so  much  of  our  time  in 
Java. 


1 66  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Monday,  Feb.  ijth.  Batavia. — To  our  disappoint- 
ment the  museum,  Weltevreden's  most  interesting 
feature,  was  closed  for  the  day  but  we  enjoyed  seeing 
the  broad  streets  with  their  canals  in  whose  turbid 
waters  the  native  women  were  busily  engaged  in  doing 
their  washing,  and  visited  some  of  the  shops.  We  were 
back  on  board  the  yacht  in  time  for  lunch  and  passed 
the  opening  in  the  harbor  breakwater  at  three  o'clock 
on  our  way  north  along  the  Sumatra  shore,  ending  the 
day  with  a  delightfully  cool  evening  on  the  moonlit 
deck. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  14th.  Batavia  to  Singapore. — Today 
we  have  been  steaming  through  the  rather  difficult 
waters  of  the  Banka  Strait  between  Banka  and  Sumatra 
but  the  day  has  been  pleasant  and  the  heat  not  oppres- 
sive. At  luncheon  a  handful  of  valentines  arrived, 
stamped  and  postmarked,  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe 
and  with  appropriate  jibes  for  each  of  us.  There  was 
also  a  birthday  to  be  celebrated  and  at  dinner  various 
of  our  friends  along  the  journey  put  in  an  appearance. 
Imagine  the  surprise  of  suddenly  seeing  again  some  of 
those  who  had  done  so  much  for  us  in  Honolulu, 
Peking,  and  the  Philippines,  and  even  Nankano 
from  far  away  Nippon,  all  full  of  conversation  about 
what  had  been  happening  since  our  departure  from 
their  respective  homes.  Then  an  uninvited  guest 
with  the  initials  C.  L.*  appeared  and  tried  to  push  his 
way  into  our  company  but  to  everyone's  relief  he  was 

*  An  unwelcome  visitor  whose  identity  is  thus  discreetly  veiled 
under  the  initials  of  the  name  Cimex  lectularius,  by  which  he  is  known 
to  entomologists — though  housekeepers  use  a  shorter  and  uglier  word. 


Java,  the  Garden  of  the  World     167 

promptly  given  his  quietus  through  the  vigilance  of  the 
censor.  The  chef  had  provided  a  real  birthday  cake 
too,  with  things  inside,  and  as  the  saying  is,  a  good  time 
was  had  by  all.     Distance  187  miles. 

Wednesday,  Feb.  15th.  Batavia  to  Singapore. — At 
half  past  three  this  afternoon  there  was  a  terrific  blast 
from  the  siren  as  we  crossed  the  line  back  to  the  northern 
hemisphere,  and  it  gave  one  rather  a  feeling  of  satisfac- 
tion to  be  again  on  our  own  side  of  the  fence.  It  is  a 
constant  source  of  surprise  to  find  that  the  equator  is 
not  the  boiling  hot  place  that  one  imagines  it,  for 
though  the  morning  was  warm  it  was  not  uncomfort- 
ably so  and  in  the  afternoon  we  ran  into  the  N.  E. 
monsoon  which  was  delightfully  cool.  We  have  been 
running  past  the  coast  of  Sumatra,  or  Java  Minor,  all 
day,  and  at  eleven-thirty  anchored  for  the  night  between 
the  islands  of  Pulo  Bant  an  and  Pulo  Bintang.  Distance 
215  miles. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

FROM  SINGAPORE  TO  RANGOON 

Thursday \  Feb.  1 6th.  Singapore. — One  cannot  speak 
of  Singapore  without  thinking  of  Sir  Stamford  Raffles, 
to  whose  genius  Great  Britain  owes  this  cornerstone 
of  her  commercial  supremacy  in  the  Far  East.  The  son 
of  a  sea  captain,  he  was  born  on  shipboard  near  the 
island  of  Jamaica,  at  seventeen  started  as  a  junior  clerk 
in  the  London  office  of  the  East  India  Company,  and 
later  became  one  of  the  great  colonial  administrators,  so 
that  one  constantly  meets  his  name  in  reading  the  his- 
tory of  these  outlying  possessions  of  the  British  Empire. 
It  was  through  his  foresight  that  the  island  of  Singapore 
was  acquired  in  1819  from  the  Sultan  of  Johore,  and  his 
statue  near  the  landing  is  one  of  the  first  things  to  catch 
the  new  arrival's  eye.  This  strange  city  that  he  founded 
has  become  the  great  cross  roads  of  oriental  travel,  and 
in  its  crowded  streets  may  be  seen  an  epitome  of  the 
whole  Far  East.  A  score  of  peoples  are  represented  in 
this  menagerie  of  the  human  race  and  the  queer  speci- 
mens go  about  their  affairs  in  a  many-hued  variety  of 
apparel  and  complexion  that  makes  the  stranger  stare 
in  wide-eyed  astonishment.  All  gradations  of  pigmen- 
tation of  the  human  epidermis  are  here  on  view,  running 

the  gamut  from  the  anemic  pallor  of  the  European 

168 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       169 

through  the  yellow  of  Japan  and  China,  the  clear  sepia 
of  Malay  and  Javanese,  and  the  deeper  duskiness  of 
half  a  dozen  Indian  races,  till  in  the  sooty  Tamils  with 
nearly  naked  bodies  one  sees  skins  whose  inkiness  can 
be  compared  only  with  that  of  ebony.  But  the  Chinese 
are  in  the  majority  and  lead  all  the  others  both  in  num- 
ber and  in  wealth,  for  here  as  elsewhere  in  the  East, 
outside  of  their  own  country  they  prosper  exceedingly. 
We  left  our  anchorage  early  and  by  eleven -thirty  were 
gaining  our  first  impressions  of  the  colorful  streets. 
After  luncheon  at  the  famous  but  rambling,  old-fash- 
ioned Raffles  Hotel,  with  its  terrace,  where  one  can  sit 
and  watch  the  unending  stream  of  native  life  pass  by, 
we  motored  to  a  Chinese  temple  outside  the  city  which 
was  finer  than  any  we  had  seen  before.  It  was  built 
about  twenty-five  years  ago  at  a  cost  of  thirty-two 
million  dollars  as  the  gift  of  a  single  wealthy  merchant, 
and  is  a  marvel  of  elaborate  decoration.  While  we  were 
there  a  service  was  being  conducted,  and  it  was  evident 
that  this  well  tended  sanctuary,  unlike  those  in  China, 
was  prosperous  and  in  active  use.  From  here  we  went 
on  around  the  "Gap,"  past  rubber  plantations,  the 
handsome  villas  of  rich  Chinese  merchants,  and  groves 
in  which  monkeys  skipped  from  branch  to  branch,  and 
still  further  to  a  height  from  which  there  was  a  fine  view 
of  the  sea.  On  the  shore  below  was  a  Malay  fishing 
village  and  nearby  we  were  invited  to  have  tea  in  the 
seaside  villa  of  a  Chinese  friend  of  David's,  our  Singha- 
lese guide.  After  dinner  the  men  went  with  David  to 
the  Chinese  quarter  and  saw  several  restaurants,  a 


170  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Chinese  theater  and  an  opium  smoking  joint.  In  order 
to  restrict  the  use  of  opium  and  keep  the  practice  in 
check  the  drug  is  sold  only  under  government  control 
and  in  small  amounts,  and  all  the  resorts  are  closed 
at  ten  o'clock.  While  we  were  so  engaged  the  ladies 
went  to  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.,  but  we  joined  them 
later  at  the  dance  that  was  going  on  at  the  Raffles, 
where  we  are  spending  the  night,  as  the  yacht  is  being 
fumigated.  Distance,  from  yesterday  noon  to  Singa- 
pore, 150  miles. 

Friday,  Feb.  ijih.  Singapore. — Harriet  and  Corinna 
went  again  to  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  and  Jake  was  busy  on 
affairs  concerning  the  yacht,  but  the  rest  of  us  spent 
most  of  the  morning  looking  for  bargains  in  the  Chinese 
pawn  shops  and  other  places.  Joe  and  Corinna  had 
met  an  acquaintance,  Mr.  Wakefield,  who  is  a  copra 
trader  in  the  South  Seas  and  he  took  us  aboard  a  yacht, 
the  Wisdom  II,  owned  by  Dr.  Salisbury  of  Los  Angeles, 
which  has  been  cruising  through  the  South  Sea  Islands 
for  over  a  year  making  moving  pictures.  Captain  Tay- 
lor and  Mr.  NcNeal  showed  us  the  boat  which  is  very 
well  found  for  such  work,  and  also  a  fine  collection  of 
the  photographs  they  have  been  taking.  At  luncheon 
at  the  Hotel  Europe  some  friends  of  William's,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Blair  of  Boustead's,  and  also  Mr.  Hotchkiss  of  the 
U.S.  Rubber  Plantation  joined  us,  and  later  we  motored 
across  the  island  and  took  the  ferry  to  Johore.  Here 
the  Sultan  has  a  rather  tawdry  palace,  and  there  is  a 
very  large  and  recently  built  mosque  with  a  picturesque 
approach  past  a  marble  pool  where  the  true  believers 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       171 

perform  their  ablutions  before  entering  to  worship. 
From  here  we  hurried  back  to  the  city,  stopping  on  the 
way  to  pick  up  the  Blairs  at  their  beautiful  house  on  a 
hill  surrounded  by  magnificent  lawns  and  gardens,  in 
order  to  bring  them  on  board  for  dinner. 

Saturday,  Feb.  iSth.  Singapore  to  Penang. — At  six 
Aloha  was  under  way  again  and  steaming  up  the  smooth 
waters  of  the  Malacca  Strait,  skirting  the  shores  of  the 
Straits  Settlements  and  passing  the  town  of  Malacca. 
There  was  a  light  northerly  breeze  which  made  it  pos- 
sible to  set  some  sail  part  of  the  day,  though  it  did  not 
give  much  assistance. 

Sunday,  Feb.  igth.  Singapore  to  Penang. — At  noon 
we  had  covered  two  hundred  and  fifteen  miles  since  the 
same  time  yesterday,  and  were  two  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  from  Singapore.  Although  the  deck  was  comfort- 
able it  was  so  hot  below  that  for  the  second  time  since 
leaving  New  York  it  seemed  better  to  omit  the  church 
service.  We  have  been  passing  Dindings  and  the  pro- 
vince of  Perak  that  Sir  F.  A.  Swettenham  writes  about 
in  his  dramatic  sketches  of  Malay  life;  regions  beside 
whose  mangrove  bordered  inlets  and  crocodile  infested 
rivers  Conrad's  villains  and  lovers  might  plot  and  stab 
and  come  to  no  good  end.  The  day  closed  with  the 
western  sky  a  lake  of  mauve  and  madder,  not  so  spec- 
tacular as  many  of  our  sunsets  have  been,  but  very 
lovely  none  the  less. 

Monday,  Feb.  20th.  Penang. — At  twelve-thirty  A.  M. 
Aloha  anchored  off  the  northern  end  of  the  Island  of 
Penang,  or  Betel  Nut  Island,  and  waited  till  six  before 


172  Aloha  Around  the  World  *** 

proceeding  through  the  channel  into  the  harbor  of  the 
city.  Like  its  ancient  rival  Singapore,  Penang  or  George- 
town as  it  is  officially  called,  is  on  an  island  separated 
from  the  mainland  by  a  narrow  passage.  Founded  in 
1786  by  Sir  Francis  Light,  acting  for  the  East  India 
Company,  it  was  the  first  British  colony  in  the  Straits, 
,but  later  was  outstripped  by  the  rapid  development 
of  Singapore  under  the  able  administration  of  Sir  Stam- 
ford Raffles,  and  in  1837  the  seat  of  government  for  the 
British  Straits  Settlements  was  transferred  to  the  latter 
place.  Now  the  entire  peninsula  is  divided  politically 
into  three  sections,  the  British  Straits  Settlements  in- 
cluding among  others  Singapore,  Penang,  and  Malacca; 
the  Federated  Malay  States;  and  the  Non-Federated 
States;  but  all  of  the  latter  two  groups  are  under  British 
protection  and  have  either  British  residents  or  advisers. 
We  all  went  first  to  the  office  of  Boustead  and  Company, 
who  for  four  generations  have  been  agents  for  Phelps 
Dodge  and  Co.  From  there  Jake,  Peter,  and  Joe  de- 
parted by  motor  for  a  sixty-mile  ride  to  Taiping  on  the 
mainland  to  see  one  of  the  famous  tin  mines.  They 
returned  about  six-thirty  after  a  rather  strenuous  day, 
and  described  the  process  of  mining  as  being  carried  out 
on  a  small  scale  and  in  very  primitive  fashion  by  dredg- 
ing up  the  ore-bearing  sand  from  pits  artificially  flooded, 
the  sand  then  being  washed  from  the  heavier  tin  contain- 
ing sediment.  The  rest  of  us  had  a  wonderful  ride 
around  the  island  over  a  fine  winding  road  which  after 
skirting  the  shore  and  passing  through  many  native 
villages  climbed  to  heights  from  which  there  were 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       173 

splendid  views  of  the  sea  and  the  coconut-palm  filled 
valleys.  The  air  was  full  of  strange  fragrances  that  it 
puzzled  us  to  identify,  and  not  even  in  Java  did  the 
surroundings  seem  more  characteristically  tropical. 
A  Chinese  temple  by  the  roadside  furnished  an  unex- 
pected thrill,  for  as  our  eyes  became  accustomed  to  the 
dim  interior  light,  snakes  began  to  appear  to  our  startled 
vision  on  every  hand,  motionless  but  living,  coiled  in 
festoons  about  the  gilded  images,  on  the  branches  of 
potted  shrubs,  in  the  intricacies  of  the  decorative  carv- 
ing, or  quietly  reposing  on  tables  and  altars;  some  small 
and  green  or  blue,  but  most  of  them  four  or  five  feet  in 
length,  mottled  black  and  yellow  and  having  the  tri- 
angular head  of  the  vipers.  Over  seventy  of  the  crea- 
tures inhabit  the  dingy  recesses  of  the  temple  and  are 
considered  sacred  by  the  worshippers.  Our  return  to 
the  city  was  delayed  by  several  punctures  and  blow-outs 
and  after  a  late  lunch  at  the  Eastern  and  Oriental  Hotel, 
a  gillie-gillie  or  Indian  magician  showed  some  tricks 
that  were  just  as  mystifying  and  as  skillfully  performed 
as  we  had  expected  to  find  them.  He  did  ten  or  a  dozen, 
but  most  interesting  of  all  was  the  famous  growth  of  the 
mango  tree,  which  from  a  seed  planted  in  a  handful  of 
earth  in  a  handkerchief  developed  in  a  few  minutes 
under  the  shelter  of  a  cloth  to  a  thickly  f  oliaged  shrub  a 
foot  or  more  high  with  crisp,  fresh  leaves  that  did  not  ap- 
pear to  have  been  subjected  to  any  previous  folding  or 
compression.  As  an  after- thought  he  also  produced  for 
us  a  cobra  and  put  it  through  its  paces  with  a  thorough- 
ness that  did  not  fail  to  elicit  a  full  chorus  of  jumps 


174  Aloha  Around  the  World 

and  squeals.  Later  under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Milligan 
of  Boustead  and  Co.  we  drove  through  the  very  attrac- 
tive residential  sections  where  most  of  the  best  looking 
places  seemed  to  be  the  homes  of  wealthy  Chinese, 
visited  the  botanical  gardens  where  there  is  a  pretty 
waterfall,  and  finally  went  out  to  the  Ayer  Itam  Chinese 
monastery  which  is  a  branch  of  the  famous  Kusan  mon- 
astery we  saw  at  a  distance  from  the  Min  River  at 
Foochow.  The  temple  buildings  rise  one  above  the 
other  up  the  hillside,  with  rocky  gardens,  goldfish  ponds, 
and  a  pool  filled  with  ancient  tortoises,  until  from  the 
highest  there  is  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  the  palm 
covered  slopes  below.  After  witnessing  the  evening  ser- 
vice of  the  monks  we  were  served  tea  by  the  priest  in 
charge  and  then  went  on  to  the  pretty  house  where  Mr. 
Milligan  lives  with  three  other  bachelors  and  had  more 
tea ;  finally  getting  back  to  Aloha  a  short  time  before  the 
return  of  the  tin  miners,  and  then  sailed  while  we  were 
eating  dinner.     Distance  120  miles. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  21st.  Penang  to  Rangoon. — The  day 
started  auspiciously  with  the  capture  of  three  albacores, 
the  first  fish  caught  in  a  long  time.  The  spanker  was  set 
in  order  to  use  what  there  was  of  the  monsoon  and  at 
ten-thirty  a.m.  steam  was  reduced  to  one  boiler,  but 
the  wind  was  too  light  to  be  of  much  service  and  most  of 
the  day  we  ran  only  between  seven  and  eight  knots. 
The  sea  was  flat  and  oily  till  late  in  the  afternoon  when 
we  encountered  frequent  tide  rips  of  little  dancing  waves 
that  splashed  musically  as  we  passed  through  them. 
Distance  165  miles. 


£-.  j&asm^m^^ki: 


-,— •—  .--.  ^  w».~ 


Shwe-Dagon 

One  of  the  many  shrines  on  the  terrace  from  which  springs  the  great  pagoda.  This 
entire  structure  is  a  sparkling  mass  of  gilding,  filigree,  and  mosaic,  in  whose  interior 
three  Buddhas  can  be  dimly  seen. 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       175 

Wednesday,  Feb.  22nd.  Penang  to  Rangoon. — We  are 
in  the  bay  of  Bengal  running  along  the  Malay  peninsula 
to  Rangoon  but  out  of  sight  of  the  land.  The  sea  re- 
mains as  calm  as  ever  and  the  monsoon  is  almost  dead 
ahead  so  that  the  canvas  is  of  little  use  and  at  noon 
we  went  back  to  two  boilers.  As  it  was  Washing- 
ton's birthday,  Joe  helped  to  celebrate  by  exhibit- 
ing his  paintings  of  the  bas-reliefs  at  Boroboedoer, 
which  are  remarkably  fine  and  gave  us  a  great  deal 
of  pleasure.  Lat.  9°4i'N.,  Long.  97°.03'E.  Distance 
161  miles. 

Thursday,  Feb.  2jrd.  Penang  to  Rangoon. — A  very 
uneventful  day  with  a  smooth  sea,  a  cloudless  sky  and 
only  the  faintest  of  breezes.  We  are  making  good  time, 
however,  and  at  noon  were  within  200 miles  of  Rangoon 
which  is  737  miles  from  Penang. 

Lat.  I3°.ii'N.,  Long.  96°.3i'E.,    Distance  212  miles. 

Friday,  Feb.  24th.  Rangoon. — The  murky  fluid  al- 
most like  cocoa  in  appearance  that  entered  the  bath 
tubs  this  morning  showed  that  we  were  nearing  the 
mouth  of  the  Rangoon  River  whose  turbid  waters  sur- 
pass in  opacity  even  those  of  the  Hoang  Ho  and  the 
Yangtze  Kiang.  The  lighthouse  at  China-Bakir  was 
undermined  not  long  ago  by  the  swift  currents  and  has 
been  replaced  by  a  lightship,  a  change  not  noted  on  the 
charts,  so  that  our  landfall  though  perfectly  accurate 
was  somewhat  disconcerting  at  first,  but  shortly  after 
ten  we  picked  up  the  pilot  brig  and  a  pilot  came  aboard. 
It  was  about  forty  miles  from  here  to  Rangoon,  past 
the  sharp  westward  turn  at  Elephant  Point  and  through 


176  Aloha  Around  the  World 

the  windings  of  the  treacherous  channel  up  the  river, 
and  at  half  past  two  we  reached  our  mooring  among  the 
crowded  shipping  with  the  current  tearing  by  in  muddy 
ripples  at  four  or  five  knots.  Long  before  the  city  itself 
was  visible  the  golden  spire  of  the  great  Shwe  Dagon 
Pagoda  could  be  seen  dimly  gleaming  through  the  haze, 
the  most  beautiful  and  most  venerated  shrine  of  Indo- 
China,  to  which  pilgrims  throng  from  far  and  near.  It 
is  said  to  have  been  founded  in  585  B.C.  to  enclose  eight 
of  Gautama's  hairs  as  well  as  relics  of  three  preceding 
Buddhas,  and  through  the  centuries  has  been  enlarged 
and  beautified  till  now  with  the  countless  lesser  sanctu- 
aries that  cluster  around  its  base  it  is  considered  one  of 
the  wonders  of  the  East.  It  stands  on  a  mound  cut  into 
two  rectangular  terraces,  the  upper  of  which  is  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty-six  feet  above  the  ground  and  forms  a 
paved  platform  nine  hundred  feet  long  by  six  hundred 
and  eighty-five  feet  wide.  From  this  rises  the  pagoda 
itself  with  a  broad  octagonal  base  a  quarter  of  a  mile 
in  circumference,  and  rearing  its  gracefully  tapering 
shaft  to  a  height  of  three  hundred  and  seventy  feet ;  a 
slender  column  of  gold  crowned  by  the  usual  "ti"  or 
umbrella  top  of  elaborate  gilded  and  jewelled  lattice 
work,  fringed  with  dangling  bells  with  elongated  clap- 
pers which  make  them  tinkle  with  every  passing 
breeze.  The  platform  is  reached  by  a  flight  of  irreg- 
ular, dilapidated  steps  covered  by  an  arcade  of  carved 
and  painted  teak,  and  up  this  long  ascent  we  toiled 
painfully  in  our  shoeless  and  stockingless  feet,  for  the 
rule  that  "Footwearing  is  Forbidden"  is  strictly  en- 


Shwe-Dagox 


Part  of  the  circle  of  shrines  and  altars  that  surround  the  great  central  pagoda, 
rising  3"o  feet  above  the  terrace  on  which  it  stands,  which  itself  is  166  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  ground. 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       177 

forced  and  only  absolutely  denuded  soles  are  allowed 
to  press  the  sacred  pavement.  On  either  side  of  the 
stairway  were  booths  where  offerings  of  flowers  or  gold 
leaf,  sacred  pictures  on  glass,  and  other  wares  might  be 
purchased,  and  from  whose  shelter  pretty  Burmese 
maidens  smoking  the  traditional  fat,  twelve  inch 
cheroots  smiled  tolerantly  at  our  flat-footed  progress. 
On  the  upper  terrace  surrounding  the  great  pagoda 
were  countless  shrines,  chapels,  altars,  niches,  and 
treasure  houses,  marvels  of  ornate  filigree  work  and 
carving,  glittering  with  gilding  or  glass  mosaics  and 
enclosing  thousands  of  Buddhas  of  all  sizes,  seated, 
recumbent  or  standing,  of  wood,  plaster,  gilt  or 
marble.  Here  and  there  were  tall  poles  supporting 
symbolic  geese  or  cranes,  stands  of  bells,  and  whole 
menageries  of  fabulous  animals,  while  strolling  about 
were  the  brightly  dressed  crowds;  most  striking  of  all 
the  pongyis  or  monks  with  shaven  heads  and  toga-like 
draperies  of  orange  yellow  that  left  one  brown  arm  and 
shoulder  bare.  Some  of  the  people  came  to  worship, 
others  to  walk  and  talk,  and  in  one  corner  a  group  of 
young  men  in  knee  breeches  of  dark  blue  tatooing  were 
playing  cane  ball,  cleverly  keeping  a  hollow  ball  woven 
of  rattan  in  the  air  by  hitting  it  with  the  knee  or  instep, 
never  with  the  hand.  This  is  the  spot  of  which  it  was 
written  in  the  Song  of  the  Cities : 

"Hail  mother!  do  they  call  me  rich  in  trade? 
Little  care  I,  but  hear  the  shorn  priest  drone, 
And  watch  my  silk-clad  lovers,  man  by  maid 
Laugh  'neath  my  Shwe  Dagon." 


178  Aloha  Around  the  World 

After  leaving  this  fascinating  place  we  drove  about  past 
the  smaller  Sule  pagoda  and  through  the  suburbs,  later 
joining  the  crowds  enjoying  the  delicious  coolness  of  the 
late  afternoon  in  the  pretty  Victoria  Memorial  Park 
with  its  charming  lakes  across  which  there  was  a  fine 
sunset  view  of  the  great  pagoda.  For  dinner  we  went 
to  the  Minto  Mansions  Hotel  and  afterwards  drove 
along  a  dusty  road  to  a  field  outside  the  city  where  a 
Pwe  was  being  given.  This  form  of  theatrical  enter- 
tainment is  very  popular  with  the  laughter  loving  Bur- 
mese, and  consisted  of  a  farcical  performance  of  song, 
dance,  and  dialogue  carried  on  to  a  musical  accompani- 
ment by  two  men  and  a  girl  on  a  rude  platform,  while 
the  audience  squatted  on  the  ground  in  front.  The  lady, 
who  had  lots  of  pep,  was  by  far  the  best  performer,  and 
in  spite  of  her  tight  fitting  skirt  did  wonders  in  the  way 
of  dancing  and  dramatic  posing.  On  the  way  back  to 
Aloha  we  stopped  in  order  that  the  ladies  might  visit 
the  Y.  W.  C.  A. 

Saturday,  Feb.  25th.  Rangoon. — After  an  early 
breakfast  we  started  off  to  see  the  "elephints  a-pilin' 
teak."  Modern  machinery  with  its  steam  winches  and 
wire  ropes  is  rapidly  displacing  this  picturesque  method 
of  handling  the  great  logs  that  are  floated  down  the 
Irrawady  River  from  the  forests  in  the  interior,  but  a 
few  firms  still  use  the  hathis  and  we  went  to  a  timber 
yard  where  half  a  dozen  of  the  great  creatures  were  just 
finishing  their  morning's  task,  for  they  work  only  from 
five  till  nine  and  then  from  four  till  dusk.  Their  intelli- 
gence in  following  the  suggestions,  for  they  seemed  to  be 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       179 

little  more,  of  their  mahouts,  was  remarkable  and  it  was 
almost  uncanny  to  see  how  cleverly  they  balanced  their 
burdens  with  trunk  and  tusks  or  pushed  the  logs  into 
place  with  forehead  or  foot.  It  was  a  most  interesting 
thing  to  see  and  a  phase  of  eastern  life  that  like  so  many 
others  will  soon  be  merely  a  tradition.  Then  we  did 
shops  for  a  while;  silversmith's  where  fine  repousse 
bowls  and  boxes  are  made,  lacquer  ware  shops,  and  the 
bazaars — the  crowded  markets  where  the  people  throng 
as  much  to  see  their  friends  and  gossip  as  to  buy.  Most 
fascinating  of  all  was  the  silk  bazaar,  for  the  Burmese 
silks  are  famous  for  their  color  and  design,  and  all  the 
beauties  of  the  spectrum  seemed  to  glow  and  shimmer 
imprisoned  in  the  gossamer  of  the  rainbow- tinted  fabrics 
piled  and  hung  along  the  aisles  in  endless  variety  of  hue 
and  pattern. 

While  Java  first  made  us  realize  the  meaning  of  the 
tropics,  Rangoon,  this  city  of  three  hundred  thousand 
people  with  only  a  sprinkling  of  Europeans,  sums  up  and 
typifies  all  that  one  has  read  and  thought  about  the 
East,  and  here  one  seems  to  stand  at  the  portal  of  still 
another  world,  enormous  in  extent  and  incredibly  popu- 
lous, and  as  different  from  our  own  in  customs,  dress, 
and  mode  of  thought  as  if  it  were  on  another  planet. 
The  sun-baked  streets  brilliant  in  the  blinding  glare  are 
filled  with  dusky  people  of  a  score  of  different  races; 
long  haired  men  with  scarlet  breech  clouts  the  only 
covering  on  their  sooty  bodies  dragging  great  burdens 
on  heavy  carts,  yellow-robed  priests  going  from  house 
to  house  with  shiny,  black  begging  bowls,  laughing 


180  Aloha  Around  the  World 

groups  of  women  in  white  and  pink  and  apple  green 
with  flowers  in  their  inky  hair,  artisans  plying  their 
trades  in  the  open,  bhistis  laying  the  dust  with  splashes 
from  their  goat  skin  water  bags,  white-bearded,  tur- 
baned  scholars  carrying  ancient  looking  tomes,  choco- 
late-colored little  boys  dressed  only  in  a  few  silver 
bangles  but  smoking  foot  long  cheroots  with  airy 
nonchalance ;  a  thousand  striking  pictures  make  up  this 
living  mosaic  of  strange  figures  to  which  no  description 
could  do  justice. 

We  were  back  on  board  for  lunch  at  which  Mr.  Moffit 
the  American  Consul  joined  us,  and  then  started  down 
the  river  a  little  later  as  soon  as  the  tide  permitted.  At 
eight- thirty  we  dropped  the  pilot  and  were  at  sea  again. 

Sunday,  Feb.  26th.  Rangoon  to  Calcutta. — To  our 
relief  the  water  is  clear  again,  as  blue  as  the  cloudless 
sky  overhead.  There  is  no  wind  so  that  we  have  to 
steam  but  it  is  cool  and  we  were  able  to  have  service  in 
the  saloon. 

Lat.  I5°.2i'  N.,  Long.  94°.28'E.,  Distance  167  miles. 

Monday,  Feb.  27th.  Rangoon  to  Calcutta.  There  is 
almost  no  wind  and  what  there  is  is  dead  ahead,  so  we 
are  still  steaming  and  dodging  the  coal  dust  when  we 
sit  on  the  poop  deck. 

Lat.  I7°.32'  N.,  Long.  9i°49/  E.,  Distance  196  miles. 

Tuesday,  Feb.  28th.  Rangoon  to  Calcutta. — Another 
day  of  placid  sea  and  azure  sky  but  still  no  sailing  breeze. 
This  morning  we  passed  through  a  herd  or  whatever  the 
proper  term  may  be,  of  turtles  sunning  themselves  on 
the  mirror-like  surface,  and  Joe  who  seldom  leaves  the 


A  Street  in  Rangoon 

These  smiling  youngsters  are  good  examples  of  the  laughter  loving  Burmese — in  striking 
contrast  to  the  gloomy  Hindus. 


A  Burmese  Lumber  Yard 


A  wise  old  member  of  the  teak  piling  gang,  who,  like  his  companions,  shows  great  intelligence 
in  handling  the  heavy  logs. 


From  Singapore  to  Rangoon       181 

bridge,  counted  dozens  of  them  before  lunch.  At  eight- 
thirty  we  were  abreast  the  lightship  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Hugh  and  took  the  pilot  on  board. 

Lat.    I9°.59'  N.,   Long.    89°.o8'  E.,   Distance  216 
miles. 


CHAPTER  IX 

KINCHENJUNGA  AND  BENARES 

Wednesday,  March  ist.  Calcutta. — At  twelve-thirty 
last  night  we  anchored  to  wait  for  the  tide  and  got  under 
way  again  at  seven  this  morning,  passing  Saugor  Island 
at  eight-thirty.  The  Hugli  River  pilots  are  the  aristo- 
crats of  the  profession,  as  were  their  prototypes  on  the 
Mississippi  half  a  century  ago,  and  ours  came  aboard 
with  his  native  servant  and  heaps  of  luggage,  but  he 
knew  his  business  and  took  us  cleverly  up  the  treacher- 
ous coffee-colored  river,  whose  shoals  shift  so  often  that 
the  government  issues  daily  charts  to  show  the  changes 
in  the  channel,  and  native  leadsmen  come  aboard  to 
take  soundings  in  some  of  the  worst  places.  On  ap- 
proaching Calcutta  we  passed  numerous  large  jute  mills 
and  when  we  finally  reached  the  city  a  little  after  three 
were  astonished  at  the  amount  of  shipping  moored 
along  the  waterfront.  We  were  given  a  good  berth 
opposite  the  Maidan,  and  later  Mr.  Lawson  of  the  Na- 
tional Aniline  Chemical  Co.,  and  Michael  the  head  ser- 
vant engaged  for  us  by  Mr.  Osborne,  came  on  board. 
The  railway  strike  now  going  on  as  well  as  the  unrest 
among  the  natives  make  it  difficult  to  plan  the  trip,  but 

we  have  worked  out  a  schedule  that  meets  everyone's 

182 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         183 

approval  and  are  going  to  start  with  that  as  a  basis  sub- 
ject to  modifications  as  circumstances  may  require. 

Distance  200  miles.  Distance  from  Rangoon  779 
miles. 

Thursday,  March  2nd.  Calcutta. — Calcutta  with  a 
population  of  nearly  a  million  is  the  leading  port  of  the 
East,  and  its  water-front  extends  over  nine  miles,  all 
densely  crowded  with  shipping  so  that  we  are  fortunate 
to  be  lying  within  a  stone's  throw  of  the  shore,  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  city.  The  famous  Maidan,  whose 
drives  are  crowded  late  in  the  afternoon  with  the  motors 
and  carriages  of  fashionable  Calcutta,  is  a  nearly  treeless 
park  running  for  about  two  miles  along  the  river  and 
over  a  mile  wide.  Centered  about  it  are  the  most  im- 
portant public  buildings,  hotels  and  clubs,  the  Victoria 
Memorial,  the  Museum,  the  Eden  Gardens,  and  the 
two-mile  race  course,  and  on  Chowringhi  which  runs 
along  the  side  opposite  to  the  river,  are  many  of  the 
leading  shops.  This  quarter  of  the  city  is  of  fine  ap- 
pearance, with  many  imposing  buildings,  but  the  streets 
are  filled  with  a  strange  mixture  of  East  and  West,  and 
such  sights  as  the  sacred  cows  that  wander  at  will  over 
the  sidewalks,  and  poke  their  muzzles  unrebuked  into 
the  shop  doors,  make  one  realize  that  this  is  a  country 
where  occidental  civilization  is  only  a  veneer  under 
which  lie  undreamt  of  depths  of  superstition  and  ancient 
custom.  Our  first  errand  was  to  order  the  bedding-rolls 
or  razais,  which  are  needed  on  every  journey  in  India, 
and  then  Jake,  William,  and  I  with  Mr.  Lawson  visited 
various  railroad  officials  to  make  arrangements  about 


184  Aloha  Around  the  World 

our  trip  to  Darjeeling  and  across  the  country.  The 
others  inspected  the  market  and  the  Jain  temple,  but 
did  not  consider  that  the  latter  deserved  its  reputation 
for  beauty  and  interest.  Miss  Wilson,  directress  of  the 
Y.  W.  C.  A.  training  school,  and  two  of  her  assistants 
lunched  with  us  on  board  and  then  there  was  just  time 
to  pack  and  leave  at  four  o'clock  for  the  Sealdah  Station 
to  take  the  Darjeeling  train,  together  with  Michael  and 
four  other  Goanese  retainers.  The  country  was  flat 
and  not  very  interesting ;  endless  rice  and  jute  fields  and 
occasional  small  hamlets  tucked  away  in  groves  of  bam- 
boo or  palm  trees.  After  dinner  we  crossed  the  famous 
Hardinge  Bridge  over  the  Ganges,  more  than  a  mile 
long  with  fifteen  spans  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet, 
whose  construction  involved  great  engineering  difficul- 
ties owing  to  the  treacherous  nature  of  the  river  bed. 
Some  distance  beyond,  at  Santahar  we  had  to  change 
from  the  broad  gage  to  the  narrow  gage  line,  and  ar- 
ranged ourselves  for  the  night  in  several  good  sized 
compartments. 

Friday,  March  3rd.  Darjeeling.  The  compartments 
provided  fairly  comfortable  sleeping  accommodations 
and  at  seven  we  alighted  at  Siliguri  to  have  break- 
fast and  change  again  to  the  two-foot  gage  mountain 
railway.  The  station  crowd  provided  endless  amuse- 
ment during  the  wait  until  the  little  toy  train  made  up 
its  mind  to  start,  in  four  sections,  but  then  it  entertained 
us  greatly  itself  for  locomotive,  cars  and  track  were  all 
on  the  most  diminutive  scale  and  it  seemed  like  going 
for  a  ride  on  the  scenic  railway  at  Coney  Island.    And  a 


o  .2 

<o    £ 

«<_  c 


*3  «j 

T3 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         185 

scenic  railway  it  turned  out  to  be,  but  of  the  greatest 
possible  interest  and  grandeur.  The  road  was  started 
in  1879  and  finished  two  years  later,  for  the  most  part 
following  the  cart  road  up  the  mountains,  but  often 
leaving  it  to  make  sudden  jumps  in  altitude  by  switch- 
backs or  single  or  double  loops,  one  of  the  latter  with  a 
radius  of  only  fifty-nine  feet.  The  real  ascent  does  not 
begin  till  Sukna  station  is  reached,  seven  miles  from 
Siliguri,  and  then  in  the  forty  miles  to  Ghoom  it  climbs 
to  an  altitude  of  seven  thousand  four  hundred  and  seven 
feet  with  an  average  gradient  of  one  in  twenty-nine,  the 
steepest  rise  being  one  in  twenty.  Darjeeling,  four 
miles  beyond  Ghoom  lies  a  little  lower,  with  an  altitude 
of  six  thousand  eight  hundred  and  twelve  feet.  During 
the  climb  there  is  a  complete  change  in  vegetation  from 
the  tropical  growth  at  the  level  of  the  plain  to  the  oaks, 
walnuts,  chestnuts,  and  magnolias  of  the  higher  levels, 
and  the  pear,  cherry,  and  plum  trees  in  blossom  made  us 
realize  that  this  is  spring"  time  in  the  temperate  zone. 
Kurseong  is  a  pretty  and  popular  mountain  resort  where 
we  stopped  for  breakfast  and  began  to  see  the  pictur- 
esquely dressed  hill  people,  Mongolian  in  type,  and 
caught  our  first  glimpses  of  the  Kinchenjunga  range. 
Early  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  in  Darjeeling  and 
were  delighted  to  breathe  its  cool,  thin  air  after  so 
many  weeks  in  the  tropics.  The  streets  and  shops  and 
great  bazaar  of  this  charmingly  clean  and  attractive 
little  town  kept  us  busy  the  rest  of  the  day,  and  it 
seemed  almost  like  a  memory  of  Peking  and  the  Great 
Wall  to  see  the  pigtailed  Tibetans  and  Mongolians  in 


1 86  Aloha  Around  the  World 

their  fur  caps,  wadded  coats,  and  heavily  padded  cloth 
boots. 

Saturday,  March  4th.  Darjeeling. — Though  we  had 
decided  to  postpone  till  tomorrow  the  expedition  to 
Tiger  Hill,  we  were  all  awake  at  dawn  to  see  from  our 
windows  the  sunrise  lights  on  the  Kinchenjunga  range ; 
a  spectacle  whose  splendor  far  outstrips  all  descrip- 
tion. Stretching  across  the  sky  in  a  majestic  line,  the 
serrated  crests  of  these  giants  among  the  earth's  great- 
est mountains  slowly  changed  from  grey  to  pearl,  from 
pearl  to  white,  and  finally  the  whole  chain  through  its 
stupendous  length  glowed  in  the  pink  radiance  with  a 
spectral  beauty  that  recalled  the  Alpengluhen  of  the 
Bernese  Oberland.  Yesterday  the  afternoon  mist  had 
hidden  the  lofty  peaks,  but  there  was  no  trace  of  haze 
in  the  clear  morning  air  as  the  few  cloud  masses  about 
the  summits  lifted  and  the  entire  range  stood  out  sharply 
and  distinctly  against  the  crystal  sky.  Inspired  by  the 
sight  we  thought  no  more  of  sleep,  but  dressed  and 
climbed  the  hill  behind  the  town  to  get  another  view  of 
the  summits,  now  dazzlingly  white  in  the  full  light  of 
day,  and  did  not  return  to  the  hotel  till  time  for  break- 
fast. Then,  afoot,  in  rickshaws,  or  on  ponies  we  went 
through  the  town  and  descended  to  the  opposite  slope 
of  the  ridge  on  which  it  lies,  to  a  Buddhist  monastery 
or  temple,  approached  through  a  long  line  of  tall  poles 
from  which  fluttered  prayer  flags  of  cloth  and  paper. 
At  its  entrance  were  several  prayer  wheels,  one  six  feet 
in  height,  and  in  the  dingy  interior  crudely  decorated 
with  colored  designs,  were  Tibetan  manuscripts  and 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         187 

various  musical  instruments  including  trumpets  made 
of  human  thigh  bones.  Before  the  altar  votive  offerings 
of  colored  rice  and  butter  had  been  placed,  some  in- 
geniously arranged  to  resemble  flowers.  Buddhism  as 
practiced  here  is  of  a  very  debased  kind,  consisting 
chiefly  in  attempts  at  propitiation  of  the  countless  evil 
spirits  who  pervade  all  nature,  and  it  is  for  this  purpose 
that  the  prayer  flags  are  erected  that  one  sees  every- 
where flapping  in  the  breeze  to  remind  the  demons  of 
the  petitions  inscribed  on  them.  Nearby  was  the 
Bhutia  Basti,  a  village  of  Bhutias,  dirty  but  full  of 
color.  We  are  lucky  in  the  time  of  our  visit  here  for  on 
Saturday  and  Sunday  the  big  market  is  packed  with  a 
swarm  of  multi-colored  figures  such  as  hardly  could  be 
equaled  anywhere  else  in  interest  and  picturesqueness. 
Like  all  hill  people  they  are  sturdy  and  good  natured, 
a  thousand  miles  removed  from  the  melancholy  and 
skinny  Hindus,  and  their  slanting  eyes  and  flat,  high 
cheek-boned  faces  reveal  their  Mongolian  ancestry. 
Most  characteristic  are  the  Bhutias,  descended  from 
Tibetans  who  filtered  in  through  Sikkim  centuries  ago, 
and  their  women  are  loaded  with  heavy  jewelry  and 
amulets  of  gold,  silver  and  turquoise.  The  Lepchas  or 
aboriginal  race  of  the  region  are  also  of  Mongolian  type 
but  less  vivacious  and  of  smaller  stature ;  their  men  wear 
pigtails  and  like  the  women  are  very  fond  of  ornaments. 
The  Nepalese  have  an  admixture  of  Aryan  blood,  dress 
more  simply  than  the  others  and  do  much  of  the  work 
in  the  neighboring  tea  gardens,  and  in  addition  Tibet- 
ans, Limbus,  Bengalis,  Kashmiris,  lamas  and  beggars 


1 88  Aloha  Around  the  World 

complete  this  congress  of  outlandish  people.  Nearly  all 
had  something  for  sale  and  both  men  and  women  at  the 
slightest  suggestion  of  interest  were  ready  to  take  off 
any  piece  of  jewelry  or  ornament  they  were  wearing  and 
to  attempt  to  beguile  the  visitor  into  purchasing  it. 
After  spending  most  of  the  afternoon  in  looking  at  furs, 
rugs,  embroideries,  and  antiques  in  the  dozens  of  little 
shops,  we  watched  the  sunset  from  Observatory  Hill 
where  there  was  another  primitive  shrine  surrounded  by 
a  group  of  prayer  flags,  but  the  sky  was  not  propitious 
and  we  are  hoping  that  tomorrow  we  shall  be  better 
rewarded  when  we  go  to  Tiger  Hill  for  the  sunrise. 

Sunday,  March  5  th.  Darjeeling. — We  were  called  at 
three,  and  at  a  quarter  before  four  moved  off  in  the  frosty 
darkness,  the  ladies  in  chairs,  or  dandies  as  they  are 
called  here,  and  the  men  on  frisky  little  ponies.  After 
four  miles  of  eerie  travel  through  the  blackness  we  sud- 
denly found  ourselves  in  the  main  street  of  sleeping 
Ghoom  and  then  turned  up  the  mountain  trail  leading  to 
Tiger  Hill  at  the  summit  of  Mount  Senchal,  two  miles 
further  and  eight  thousand  five  hundred  and  fifteen 
feet  above  sea  level.  Here,  in  the  concrete  observation 
tower  we  were  able  to  settle  ourselves  comfortably  just 
as  the  dawn  was  breaking  and  watch  the  magnificent 
spectacle  before  us.  Forty-five  miles  away  across  the 
valley  of  the  Ranjit  River,  seven  thousand  feet  below, 
and  across  the  lower  mountain  ranges  of  the  native 
state  of  Sikkim,  lay  the  great  barrier  of  the  Kinchenjunga 
range  with  countless  other  peaks  stretching  on  without 
limit  to  either  side  till  half  the  horizon  was  filled.    Di- 


s  s 


c  -Si, 


(I] 

n 

o 
g 

w  3 
«  >. 
Q 


en   J5 
o    «-. 

c   o 
'5   >> 

J| 

4)     §> 

s  * 

OS     >> 

.o 
o 


►e 

*« 


^s 


*""    to    S 

.3  £ 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         189 

rectly  opposite  lay  Kinchenjunga  itself,  twenty-eight 
thousand  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  with  half  of 
that  immense  height  white  with  snow  and  ice,  and  as 
the  sun's  rays  moved  slowly  down  the  line  of  glistening 
crests  and  warmed  the  icy  slopes  with  rosy  glow  it  was  a 
vision  of  unparalleled  beauty  and  grandeur.  It  was  a 
perfect  morning  for  the  sunrise  with  only  enough  clouds 
to  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  picture,  and  even  Mt.  Ever- 
est deigned  to  show  its  apex,  diminished  by  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles  of  distance  to  a  gleaming  triangle  of 
white  just  clearly  visible  above  the  intervening  heights. 
Afterwards  in  discussing  it  we  decided  that  it  was  finer 
than  anything  we  had  seen  in  the  Canadian  Rockies  but 
that  the  view  from  the  Gorner  Grat,  where  one  is  so 
much  nearer  to  the  glaciers  and  the  peaks,  could  well  be 
compared  with  it  and  that  the  Grand  Canyon  still  re- 
mained in  our  opinion  the  most  impressive  sight  in  the 
world.  When  the  day  had  fully  come  and  we  had  been 
a  little  warmed  by  the  excellent  coffee  our  cheerfully 
grinning  coolies  had  made  for  us,  we  started  back  down 
the  mountain  and  discovered  what  a  beautiful  forest 
trail  it  was  that  we  had  mounted  in  the  dark.  After 
breakfast  some  of  us  went  to  church  and  the  others 
shopped  and  bargained  and  made  friends  in  the  crowded 
bazaar  where  everyone  was  good  natured  and  ready  to 
laugh  and  joke  with  the  strangers  and  if  possible  sell 
them  jewelry,  kukrie  knives,  rugs  from  Kashmir,  or 
Tibetan  idols.  The  train  down  the  mountain  left  at 
two  and  shortly  after  dark  we  arrived  at  Siliguri  where 
we  dined  and  changed  again  to  the  meter-gage  road. 


190  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Monday y  March  6th.  Calcutta. — At  five  we  had  to 
leave  the  train  again  at  Santahar  to  change  to  the  broad- 
gage  line  and  at  eleven  we  were  back  in  Calcutta. 
Here  we  found  to  our  relief  that  Sherkhan  the  head  ser- 
vant or  bearer  engaged  for  us  months  ago  by  Edward 
Fairbank  and  who  had  been  expecting  us  in  Colombo, 
had  finally  received  word  of  our  arrival  in  Calcutta  and 
had  reported  for  duty.  He  is  a  fine  appearing  Moham- 
medan with  a  beautiful  snowy  turban  and  jet-black 
whiskers,  who  has  been  pensioned  after  twenty-one 
years'  service  in  the  army  and  whose  two  sons  were 
killed  in  the  same  battle  in  France.  He  promises  well 
and  it  is  a  great  satisfaction  to  have  him  succeed  the 
limp  and  dispirited  Michael  and  his  crowd  of  worse  than 
useless  Goanese.  A  great  mass  of  mail,  the  first  since 
Nanking,  awaited  us  on  board  and  this  as  well  as  various 
errands  kept  us  busy  most  of  the  day.  Harriet  lunched 
with  Mrs.  Gall,  Chairman  of  the  National  Y.  W.  C.  A. 
of  India,  and  afterwards  Fluff  went  with  them  to  a 
tea  party  given  in  their  honor.  Joe  and  I  visited  the 
museum,  which  has  a  fine  collection  of  antiquities 
among  which  portions  of  the  famous  Asoka  rail  from 
Buddh  Gaya  and  other  ancient  sculptures  were  par- 
ticularly noteworthy.  After  this  somewhat  serious 
diversion  we  entertained  ourselves  in  lighter  vein  by 
feeding  the  monkeys  and  elephants  in  the  zoo  and 
watching  the  splendid  tigers,  panthers,  and  leopards 
get  their  suppers.  Everyone  was  rather  tired  after  the 
Darjeelirig  excursion  and  we  were  glad  to  have  an  Aloha 
dinner  and  get  into  our  own  comfortable  beds  again. 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         191 

Tuesday,  March  7th.  Calcutta. — Jake  has  planned  a 
splendid  itinerary  for  us  taking  in  all  the  most  important 
places  in  India  and  the  strike  situation  appears  to  have 
improved  to  such  an  extent  that  it  is  unlikely  that  the 
through  mail  trains  to  which  our  car  is  to  be  attached 
will  be  interfered  with.  As  guests  for  lunch  we  had 
Mrs.  Gall  and  Mr.  Gauntlet,  Financial  Advisor  to  the 
Government,  both  of  whom  gave  us  many  helpful  sug- 
gestions about  our  trip.  William  visited  the  botanical 
gardens  in  the  morning  which  he  found  well  worth  while, 
and  in  the  afternoon  Harriet,  with  some  of  the  others, 
attended  a  garden  party  given  by  Sir  and  Lady  Ra- 
jendra  Nath  Mukhar  ji  in  honor  of  the  retiring  Governor, 
Lord  Ronaldshay  and  Lady  Ronaldshay,  where  they  met 
many  prominent  Hindu  ladies  and  gentlemen.  The 
former  were  all  out  of  purdah,  which  it  was  said  would 
not  have  been  possible  even  a  few  years  ago  and  is 
another  evidence  of  changing  conditions  in  India. 
After  an  early  dinner  we  proceeded  to  the  Howrah 
station  to  take  the  eight -thirty  train  for  Benares.  Here 
we  found  the  car  which  is  to  be  our  rolling  hotel  for  the 
next  two  or  three  weeks,  being  prepared  for  our  recep- 
tion by  Sherkhan,  Imda  the  guide,  a  steward,  a  cook, 
and  four  other  servants.  The  car,  which  is  painted 
white,  has  two  large  compartments  with  berths  for  four 
people  in  each,  and  between  them  is  a  bathroom  with  a 
tub.  At  one  end  is  a  diminutive  kitchen  and  a  still 
smaller  anteroom  in  which  the  crowd  of  retainers  must 
live,  move  and  have  their  being  about  as  comfortably 
as  sardines  in  a  can.    In  addition  to  our  razais  or  bed- 


192  Aloha  Around  the  World 

ding-rolls  everything  else  must  also  be  provided,  crock- 
ery, cutlery,  table  linen,  cooking  utensils  and  food,  so 
that  from  the  number  of  hampers  that  are  being  un- 
packed it  appears  as  if  we  were  setting  up  housekeeping 
permanently. 

Wednesday,  March  8th.  Benares. — The  car,  although 
its  accommodations  are  somewhat  taxed  by  so  large  a 
party  is  proving  fairly  comfortable  and  adequate  to  our 
needs,  and  surprisingly  good  meals  are  produced  from 
the  tiny  kitchen.  We  were  somewhat  behind  time  in 
reaching  Mughal  Serai  junction  close  to  Benares  on  the 
south  side  of  the  Ganges,  but  while  we  were  at  lunch 
the  train  rolled  over  the  long  bridge  that  crosses  the 
sacred  river  and  a  few  moments  later  we  had  arrived  in 
the  holy  city,  four  hundred  and  twenty-nine  miles  from 
Calcutta.  The  peculiar  sanctity  of  Benares  is  so  great 
that  anyone  dying  within  its  confines,  no  matter  what 
his  sins  may  have  been  goes  at  once  to  heaven,  and  over 
a  million  pilgrims  annually  come  to  seek  the  spiritual 
benefits  which  follow  a  visit  to  its  shrines  and  temples 
and  immersion  in  the  waters  of  the  all-purifying  Ganges. 
As  in  most  Indian  cities,  the  Cantonment  or  European 
section  is  a  mile  or  more  from  the  native  city  and  it  was 
a  long  and  dusty  drive  before  we  reached  our  first 
stopping  place,  the  palace  of  the  Maharajah  of  Vizan- 
agram.  This  was  a  very  shabby  and  tawdry  semi- 
modern  affair  of  white  stucco  in  which  cheap  music 
boxes  and  atrocious  European  furniture  were  pointed 
out  as  evidences  of  the  magnificent  state  in  which  the 
Maharajah  used  to  live.    As  soon  as  we  could  get  away 


VI    -o 

g  .2* 

Q  -a 


bo 

XT    (D 

.9  > 


t:  o 


£       i 

C  ."£ 

PQ    3     - 

bo^    rt 

rt     c«     3 

O*    8 

«J     4J     c 

•gf  - 

V>     «   "2 

*    5"    »- 

•=>    S?  £ 
bo  >>  ;/ 

<u    5  ,£" 

•£   o.  a 

g^.s 

jo   a   a 


P  8 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         193 

from  this  horrid  example  of  the  bad  taste  of  modern 
India  we  went  on  to  the  temple  of  Durga,  Shiva's  blood- 
thirsty wife,  in  whose  worship  goats  are  daily  sacrificed. 
The  terra-cotta  colored  building  with  its  central  court 
containing  the  image  of  the  goddess  has  no  architec- 
tural interest,  and  even  the  crowds  of  monkeys  that  make 
it  their  headquarters  and  cause  it  to  be  familiarly  known 
as  the  Monkey  Temple,  did  not  lessen  the  disappoint- 
ment with  which  we  regarded  it.  Four  miles  north  of 
the  city  lies  Sarnath,  the  famous  Deer  Park  where 
Buddha  first  preached  and  made  known  his  doctrines 
to  the  world.  To  reach  this  we  passed  for  some  distance 
along  the  Panch  Cosi  road,  thirty-six  miles  in  length, 
which  surrounds  the  city  and  whose  circuit  all  the  pil- 
grims make,  taking  six  days  for  the  journey  unless  they 
are  of  the  ultra-devout  who  protract  the  ceremony  and 
inch-worm-like  measure  the  entire  distance  with  their 
bodies.  Sarnath  shows  many  interesting  ruins  of  mon- 
asteries, stupas,  and  other  buildings  of  immense  anti- 
quity including  the  remains  of  a  tower  in  which  some  of 
Buddha's  bones  are  said  to  have  been  found.  Finest  of 
all  is  the  Dhamekh  tower,  ninety-three  feet  in  diameter 
and  one  hundred  and  forty-three  feet  in  height,  which 
still  exhibits  sculptured  ornamentation  of  much  beauty. 
The  work  of  excavation  is  going  on  actively  and  in  the 
nearby  museum  are  preserved  many  of  the  finest  ob- 
jects that  have  been  unearthed.  As  evening  approached 
it  became  cooler  and  the  drive  back  under  the  mango 
trees,  many  of  them  in  blossom,  was  very  pleasant,  but 
it  must  be  admitted  that  whether  seen  from  the  car 


194  Aloha  Around  the  World 

window  or  at  closer  range  the  Indian  countryside  has 
little  charm. 

Thursday,  March  Qth.  Benares. — Women  of  the 
highest  rank  do  their  bathing  in  the  Ganges  before 
dawn,  but  we  decided  to  wait  till  sunrise  and  at  a  little 
after  six  had  reached  the  river  and  were  drifting  slowly 
down  it  past  the  ghats.  These  are  long  very  broad  flights 
of  steps  leading  into  the  river  and  already  the  crowds 
were  beginning  to  descend  them,  the  women  in  brightly 
hued  saris  and  all  with  shining  brass  lotas  in  their  hands 
in  which  to  carry  home  some  of  the  sacred  water.  Some 
of  the  ghats  were  much  dilapidated  and  had  settled  till 
their  steps  were  all  askew,  but  others  with  their  back- 
grounds of  fine  palaces  and  temples  looked  like  the 
settings  for  some  magnificent  opera.  At  the  river  bank 
the  devout  multitudes  were  engaged  in  prayer  or  making 
ceremonial  ablutions,  muttering  the  appropriate  man- 
trams  the  while,  and  as  we  passed  slowly  down  the 
river  and  then  back  again  the  picture  was  one  of  ex- 
traordinary variety  and  interest.  To  reach  the  Golden 
Temple  dedicated  to  Shiva,  one  has  to  pass  through  the 
narrow  alleys  of  the  native  quarter  which  in  the  neigh- 
borhood of  the  shrine  were  crowded  with  early  wor- 
shippers, their  countenances  disfigured  by  caste  marks  of 
white,  red  and  ochre  in  an  infinite  variety  of  designs, 
while  sacred  cows  with  a  fine  unconcern  pushed  their 
way  through  the  throngs  and  past  the  endless  rows  of 
seated  beggars  and  ash-covered  fakirs.  Nearby  was  the 
famous  Gyan  Kup  or  Well  of  Knowledge  and  another 
crowded  cow  temple  in  which  the  sacred  animals  make 


*  c 

-  o 

c  o 

O  <r. 

-  4J 

•-  C 


P    £ 


2  ° 
ft  5 

X.    O 


O    en 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         195 

their  home.  Along  all  the  streets  and  alleys  were  elabor- 
ately carved  and  decorated  shrines,  but  as  a  whole  it 
must  be  admitted  that  architecturally  they  are  disap- 
pointing and  the  rites  of  the  worshippers  seem  most  de- 
based and  degrading.  After  visits  to  some  of  the  tex- 
tile shops  where  beautiful  examples  of  the  kincobs  or 
gold  brocades  for  which  Benares  is  famous  were  offered 
at  prohibitive  prices,  and  to  the  brass- workers'  quarter, 
some  of  us  went  to  the  Jalsain  or  Burning  Ghat,  while 
the  others  returned  to  the  car.  The  bodies,  wrapped  in 
sheets  of  white  or  red  are  borne  to  the  ghat  on  the 
shoulders  of  the  wailing  mourners,  who  dip  the  corpse 
in  the  Ganges  and  then  leave  it  with  the  feet  in  the 
sanctifying  stream  while  the  heads  of  the  nearest  rela- 
tives are  being  shaved,  the  pyre  is  built  and  the  other 
preliminaries  are  gone  through,  after  which  the  actual 
cremation  requires  several  hours.  Finally  the  ashes  are 
scattered  in  the  river,  though  in  some  cases  they  are  sold 
to  the  goldsmiths,  thrifty  placer  miners  who  first  sift 
them  over  to  recover  any  possible  residuum  of  gold 
from  the  ornaments  of  the  deceased.  Later  we  saw  an 
amazing  exhibition  of  snake  charming.  Several  snakes 
were  killed  by  a  mongoose  and  the  charmers  handled 
black  and  vicious  looking  scorpions  with  impunity,  while 
one  of  them  allowed  a  cobra  to  bite  his  finger  till  the 
blood  came  and  then  applied  a  snake  stone  and  rubbed 
his  hands  and  face  with  a  bit  of  root  resembling  a  dried 
serpent's  skin,  apparently  suffering  no  ill  effects.  How 
much  poison  there  was  in  the  snake's  venom  sacks  is 
of  course  a  question.     At  one  o'clock  the  car  was  at- 


196  Aloha  Around  the  World 

tached  to  the  Lucknow  express  and  during  the  after- 
noon we  saw  an  interesting  collection  of  jewels  and  fa- 
brics shown  us  on  the  train  by  Mr.  Ganeshi  Lall  of 
Agra,  including  a  carved  emerald  said  to  have  belonged 
to  Shah  Jahan  and  valued  at  twenty  thousand  pounds. 
At  eight-thirty  we  reached  Lucknow  and  were  shunted 
to  a  siding  for  the  night. 

Friday,  March  10th.  Lucknow. — Lucknow,  the  fifth 
largest  city  in  India  and  the  former  capital  of  the  King- 
dom of  Oude  is  interesting  chiefly  through  the  tragic 
events  occurring  there  during  the  mutiny,  for  there  is 
nothing  very  fine  or  imposing  about  the  buildings  erected 
under  the  rule  of  the  Kings  of  Oude,  who  are  said  to 
have  been  a  vicious  and  incompetent  lot  and  the  last  of 
whom,  Wajid  AH  Shah,  was  deposed  in  1856.  It  was 
this  monarch  who  was  responsible  for  the  Kaiser  Bagh 
Palace,  a  stucco  atrocity  full  of  gaudy  glass  chandeliers 
and  trashy  furnishings,  and  surrounded  by  a  square  of 
ugly  yellow  and  white  buildings  in  which  he  used  to  lodge 
his  countless  wives.  From  here  we  went  to  the  Resi- 
dency and  were  really  thrilled  by  the  sight  of  the  ruined 
and  shot-pitted  buildings,  the  Baillie  Gate,  Dr.  Fay- 
rer's  house  in  which  Sir  Henry  Lawrence  died,  the 
Residency  itself  from  whose  tower  the  flag  is  still  kept 
flying  night  and  day,  and  the  tai-khanas  or  underground 
rooms  in  which  the  women  and  children  took  refuge. 
The  buildings  which  originally  were  of  surprisingly  fine 
construction  are  being  carefully  tended  and  the  grounds 
form  a  pretty  memorial  park  with  simple  and  dignified 
monuments  to  those  who  perished  here.    Our  wizened 


O     o 


2  s  ■? 

°  o  g» 

m  ^  d 

rj  <"  o 

c/3  m  E 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares         197 

and  friendly  old  guide  spared  us  no  detail,  and  the  shat- 
tered ruins  that  were  so  long  and  gallantly  defended 
brought  very  vividly  to  our  minds  the  story  of  those 
terrible  days  and  weeks  from  the  first  of  July,  1857,  till 
the  seventeenth  of  November  when  the  siege  was  finally 
raised  by  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  and  less  than  a  thousand 
still  remained  alive  of  the  three  thousand  soldiers, 
civilians,  women,  and  children  that  sought  safety  here 
at  the  beginning  of  the  mutiny.  Some  distance  from 
here  we  passed  through  a  lofty  gateway  into  the  im- 
mense paved  courtyard  of  the  Great  Imambara  or 
" Patriarch's  Place."  This  is  a  huge  and  well-propor- 
tioned but  cheaply  decorated  hall  consecrated  to  the 
Moharran  or  yearly  celebration  of  the  martyrdom  of  the 
sons  of  Ali,  the  direct  descendants  of  the  Prophet,  who 
were  put  to  death  by  rival  claimants  to  the  leadership 
of  Islam  in  the  year  666  A.D.,  and  contains  some  of  the 
tawdry  trappings  that  are  used  in  the  processions.  Not 
far  away  was  the  Husainabad  Park  with  a  high  clock 
tower  and  picture  gallery  containing  portraits  of  half  a 
dozen  or  more  of  the  fat  and  cruel  looking  Nawabs  or 
Kings  of  Oude,  but  the  best  thing  here  was  a  fine  view 
from  the  veranda  across  the  gardens  and  the  pic- 
turesque tank.  After  a  brief  stop  at  the  Palace  of 
Light,  a  group  of  whitewashed  buildings  with  many 
domes  and  minarets  surrounding  a  court  with  a  marble 
basin  bordered  by  potted  plants,  we  spent  a  little  time 
in  the  bazaar  inspecting  the  rather  crude  brass  work  and 
the  "chikan"  embroidery  which  is  one  of  the  specialties 
of  Lucknow,  and  finished  up  the  morning  by  going  to 


198  Aloha  Around  the  World 

the  pleasant  Carlton  Hotel  where  we  had  a  meal  that 
was  either  a  late  breakfast  or  an  early  lunch,  we  could 
not  decide  which.  Here  we  acquired  a  native  conjurer 
with  a  solemn-faced,  big-eyed  little  boy  as  an  assistant 
and  took  him  back  to  the  car  where  he  made  mangos 
grow  for  us  and  did  other  fascinating  tricks  until  the 
train  started  at  two -thirty.  The  country  between 
Lucknow  and  Cawnpore  was  of  the  usual  monotonous 
type  but  the  distance  was  not  great  and  we  arrived  at 
the  latter  place  at  about  five  o'clock.  Motors  were 
difficult  to  find  here,  and  while  expecting  some  to  appear 
we  spent  the  time  watching  the  crowds  of  natives  squat- 
ting in  groups  about  the  station  entrance  smoking, 
gossiping,  eating,  praying,  and  waiting  with  oriental 
patience  for  hours  till  it  should  be  train  time.  Railroad 
fares  are  very  cheap  in  India,  especially  third  class,  and 
the  natives  are  great  travelers  so  that  there  is  no  better 
place  in  which  to  get  a  cross  section  of  Hindu  life  than 
about  the  third-class  ticket  windows.  The  rules  in 
regard  to  caste  violation  are  much  relaxed  while  on  the 
"teerain"  and  Brahmin  and  Sudra,  high-born  and  low, 
well-to-do  and  poor,  may  all  be  seen  in  picturesque  and 
multi-colored  confusion.  No  wonder  that  Kim  loved 
the  gossip  and  entertainment  of  the  jammed  third- 
class  compartments  when  he  was  on  his  way  to  Luck- 
now  to  "go  up  to  the  Gates  of  Learning."  Finally  we 
drove  in  ramshackle  garrys  to  see  the  memorial  to  the 
one  hundred  and  twenty-five  women  and  children  im- 
prisoned and  then  massacred  in  a  small  house  called  the 
Bibi  Garh,  at  the  order  of  the  vindictive  rebel  Nana 


Kinchenjunga  and  Benares        199 

Dhundu  Pant.  The  monument,  which  is  impressive 
from  its  associations  rather  than  through  any  intrinsic 
merit  is  placed  in  an  attractive  park  over  whose  lawns 
a  lively  population  of  monkeys  skipped  and  capered. 
After  a  brief  stop  at  the  memorial  church  we  returned 
to  the  car,  which  was  attached  to  the  train  leaving  for 
Agra  at  eight-ten. 


CHAPTER  X 

MOGUL  PALACES,  TOMBS,  AND  MOSQUES 

Saturday,  March  nth.  Agra. — The  train  should  have 
dropped  our  car  in  Agra  at  midnight,  but  when  we 
awoke  instead  of  being  in  the  city  of  the  Taj  we  found 
that  we  had  gotten  only  as  far  as  Tundla  junction, 
fourteen  miles  away,  and  we  did  not  reach  the  station 
till  nine-thirty.  As  we  crossed  the  Jumna  bridge  we 
could  see  the  famous  fort  and  in  the  distance  the  glisten- 
ing minarets  of  the  Taj .  There  was  the  usual  long  drive 
to  the  hotel  through  streets  that  in  the  native  quarter 
were  full  of  color  and  crowded  with  donkeys,  camels, 
sacred  cows  and  a  stream  of  picturesque  humanity, 
and  in  the  Cantonment  were  wide  and  bordered  by 
bungalows,  many  of  them  of  the  old  fashioned  thatched- 
roof  type  and  set  in  enormous  compounds.  Laurie's 
Hotel  was  one  of  the  most  comfortable  we  have  found 
and  our  rooms  in  a  separate  building,  each  with  a 
dressing-room  and  splash-room  attached  and  balconies 
overlooking  the  garden,  seemed  very  cool  and  inviting. 
Before  we  could  get  away  for  a  drive  about  we  were  in- 
veigled into  visiting  Ganeshi  Lall's  shop  where  we  spent 
a  little  time  examining  his  collections  of  jewels  and 
antiques  and  then  motored  across  the  Jumna  for  our 

first  view  of  the  beauties  of  Mogul  architecture.    This 

200 


The  Taj  Mahal 

As  it  first  appears  to  the  visitor  standing  beneath  the  arch  of  the  great  entrance  gate. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     201 

was  at  the  tomb  of  Ftimad-ud-dauria,  the  father  of 
Nurjahan,  the  wife  of  the  Emperor  Jahangir,  and  grand- 
father of  Mumtaz-i-Mahal,  the  lady  of  the  Taj.  Through 
a  magnificent  gateway  one  enters  a  charming  garden  in 
the  center  of  which  stands  the  mausoleum,  a  beautiful 
creation  of  white  marble  with  elaborate  traceries  of  in- 
laid work  in  colored  stone,  and  window  lattices  mellowed 
to  the  color  of  old  ivory  and  of  a  fairy-like  delicacy  of 
design  and  workmanship  that  are  a  revelation  of  what 
the  chisel  can  accomplish  in  stone.  Late  in  the  after- 
noon we  made  our  first  visit  to  the  Taj,  almost  dreading 
lest  the  reality  should  disappoint  our  anticipations. 
But  there  are  no  words  in  which  to  describe  the  exalted 
and  spiritual  charm  of  this  lovely  monument  to  the 
memory  of  a  departed  queen,  that  no  one  can  look  at 
without  feeling  that  it  is  the  most  beautiful  building  the 
world  has  ever  seen.  Of  much  more  imposing  dimen- 
sions than  we  had  expected,  its  perfect  proportions 
cause  one  to  lose  all  sense  of  size  and  to  see  it  only  as 
an  exquisite  creation  of  marble  and  colored  stone  in  the 
midst  of  the  lawns  and  trees  that  form  its  beautiful 
setting.  The  spirit  of  the  memorial  that  Shah  Jahan 
erected  to  the  memory  of  his  queen  Arjmand  Banu, 
called  Mumtaz-i-Mahal,  the  "Pride  of  the  Palace"  and 
finished  after  twenty-two  years  of  labor  in  1652,  is 
most  gracefully  expressed  in  the  following  sonnet : 

The  Taj 

Fair  Tomb,  whose  loveliness  doth  magnify, 
A  majesty  that  held  the  world  in  sway; 


202  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Immortal  shrine  of  Love's  too  mortal  clay, 

That  dost  thyself  the  death  of  Love  belie: 

Soft,  dreaming  dome,  as  Love's  own  courage  high, 

Pure  as  Love's  tears,  and  radiant  as  Love's  ray, 

Ethereal  as  the  very  moonlight,  nay 

As  Love's  own  tenderest,  most  endearing  sigh : 

What  spirit  can  behold  and  not  gain  wings 

To  soar  aloft  with  thee  to  heaven's  high  throne? 

Thy  beauty  is  an  angel's  voice  that  sings 

In  strains  earth,  save  for  thee,  had  never  known, 

Lifting  us  up,  up,  up  from  earthly  things 

To  regions  where  is  naught  but  Love  alone. 

This  charming  tribute  to  the  beauty  of  the  Taj  was 
written  by  Mr.  D.  B.  Spooner,  Deputy  Director  Gen- 
eral of  Archeology  in  India,  who  was  staying  at  the 
hotel  and  has  been  kind  enough  to  permit  its  insertion 
here. 

To  our  surprise  and  pleasure,  at  the  entrance  to  the 
tomb  we  were  greeted  by  Edward  Fairbank,  who  had 
come  on  from  Vadala  expecting  to  join  us  in  Delhi  but 
had  stopped  off  here  en  route,  and  later  in  the  gardens 
we  met  the  Viceroy  and  Lady  Reading  accompanied  by 
General  and  Mrs.  Crozier,  who  have  been  visiting  Agra 
and  had  come  in  for  a  twilight  view  of  the  Taj.  We 
stayed  on  and  on  till  long  after  dark,  for  the  moon  was 
full  and  under  its  silvery  light  the  glistening  dome  took 
on  such  new  beauties  that  we  were  very  loth  to  leave, 
and  only  the  knowledge  that  we  could  come  again  to- 
morrow resigned  us  to  departure. 

Sunday,  March  12th.  A  gra. — Today  we  have  had  our 
fill  of  the  miracles  of  beauty  in  sandstone  and  marble 
which  the  Mohammedan  conquerors  of  India  left  be- 


J* 


£2 

8  § 
§3 


M 


<u  o 

3  c 

cr  d 

w)  >> 

3  -° 

«*-  tS 

O  <u 


8  s 


°  8 


•a  6 

tf)     o 


.H  S  5 


si  « 

0  S   * 
3  >  .- 

V    O    w 

*o  d  is 

01  ^  +^ 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     203 

hind  them  as  enduring  memorials  of  the  splendor  and 
artistic  superiority  of  their  dynasty,  which  was  in  its 
flower  at  the  time  when  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  were  brav- 
ing the  hardships  of  their  first  New  England  winters. 
In  the  Fort,  surrounded  by  sandstone  walls  seventy 
feet  in  height  and  a  mile  in  circumference,  is  a  miniature 
city  of  audience  halls,  mosques,  pavilions,  living  apart- 
ments, baths,  and  gardens,  each  a  delight  to  the  eye, 
representing  a  prodigality  in  material  and  labor  that 
outstrips  all  efforts  of  the  occidental  imagination  and 
makes  even  the  descriptions  of  the  palaces  in  the  Ara- 
bian Nights  pale  into  drab  insignificance.  It  was  chiefly 
Shah  Jahan  the  builder  of  the  Taj  who  was  responsible 
for  the  beauties  of  the  Fort,  though  some  of  the  build- 
ings are  ascribed  to  his  predecessors  Akbar  and  Jahan- 
gir.  First  we  were  delighted  by  the  Moti  Masjid  or 
Pearl  Mosque  which  gets  its  name  through  being  all  of 
white  marble,  then  came  the  imposing  Diwan-i-am  or 
Hall  of  Public  Audience,  two  hundred  and  eight  feet 
long  by  seventy-six  feet  wide,  and  after  that  a  succes- 
sion of  pavilions  and  courtyards,  gardens  and  fountains, 
mirror-lined  baths,  marble  pools  and  gem-encrusted 
boudoirs,  balconies  with  lovely  glimpses  of  the  Taj,  and 
endless  other  wonders  of  oriental  luxuriousness  and  love 
of  beauty.  It  was  something  of  an  anti-climax  to  go 
from  here  to  the  Jami  Masjid  or  Great  Mosque,  outside 
the  Fort,  a  big  but  not  very  admirable  structure,  and 
then  we  were  glad  to  postpone  further  sightseeing  until 
some  hours  after  lunch,  for  the  heat  and  glare  at  noon- 
day are  severe.    When  it  had  become  cooler  we  visited 


204  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Akbar's  tomb  at  Sikandra  five  and  one-half  miles  from 
the  city,  a  somewhat  finicky-looking  building  of  sand- 
stone and  marble  combined  with  not  altogether  happy 
effect.  The  actual  tomb  is  in  the  basement  of  the  build- 
ing but  on  the  flat  roof  four  stories  up  and  enclosed  by 
exquisite  marble  screens  is  the  great  emperor's  ceno- 
taph, a  magnificent  monster  block  of  richly  arabesqued 
white  marble,  near  one  end  of  which  stands  the  little 
marble  column  which  was  once  covered  with  gold  and  con- 
tained the  koh-i-nur.  We  ended  the  afternoon  at  the  Taj 
and  after  dinner  returned  again  to  stroll  through 
the  gardens  or  sit  in  contemplation  on  the  marble 
terraces,  finding  new  beauties  from  each  change  of 
view  or  shifting  of  the  shadows  as  the  full  moon  rose 
higher,  and  never  tiring  of  the  dream-like  beauty  of 
this  enchanted  spot. 

Monday,  March  ijth.  Agra. — All  night  long  drums 
were  beating  and  bonfires  burning  in  the  native  town, 
for  it  was  the  time  of  the  "Holee"  festival  when  women 
must  stay  indoors  and  the  men  dye  their  faces  with  red 
stain  and  splash  the  crimson  fluid  on  each  other's  gar- 
ments so  that  all  the  population  seem  spattered  with 
gore, — a  very  unpleasant  celebration.  Fatehpur  Sikri 
is  twenty-three  miles  away  and  we  made  an  early  start 
while  it  was  still  cool,  seeing  many  peacocks  and  mon- 
keys on  the  road  and  passing  several  long  camel  trains. 
Our  destination  was  the  famous  city  of  palaces  and 
mosques  that  was  built  by  Akbar,  the  Great  Mogul, 
contemporary  of  those  other  great  rulers,  Elizabeth, 
Henry  IV,  and  Phillip  II ;  father  of  Jahangir  and  grand- 


The  Pearl  Mosque 

The  Fort  at  Agra  contains  many  masterpieces  of  Mogul  architecture,  and  the  Moti 
Masjid.  or  Pearl  Mosque,  is  one  of  the  finest.  Built  entirely  of  white  marble,  it  is  con- 
sidered one  of  the  bec-t  examples  of  this  type  of  building. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques      205 

father  of  Shah  Jahan,  a  sturdy  monarch  who  worked 
hard,  is  reputed  to  have  slept  only  two  hours  a  day,  and 
at  whose  progressive  and  broad-minded  court  the 
sciences,  arts,  and  all  religions  flourished.  He  is  said  to 
have  planned  this  gorgeous  capital  because  of  the  sanc- 
tity of  a  local  hermit,  the  Chishti  Shaikh  Salim,  but  later 
abandoned  it  for  Agra,  just  why  has  not  been  satisfac- 
torily explained.  At  any  rate  he  lived  here  for  a  time  in 
pomp  and  pride,  with  separate  palaces  for  his  favorite 
wives,  his  curious  council  chamber  in  which  he  sat  high 
up  in  the  air  on  the  capital  of  a  richly  ornamented 
column  connected  by  short  stone  balustrades  with  the 
corners  of  the  apartment  occupied  by  his  four  ministers, 
his  stables  for  a  hundred  horses  and  as  many  camels,  his 
courtyard  inlaid  with  blocks  of  colored  marble  to  make  a 
pachisi  board  on  which  he  played  with  slave  girls  to 
represent  the  pieces,  his  Khwabgah  or  House  of  Dreams, 
and  many  other  splendors  all  bearing  evidence  to  the 
skill  of  his  architects  and  his  own  extravagance.  But 
the  finest,  the  most  exquisite,  the  most  elaborately 
beautiful  thing  of  all  was  the  little  white  marble  tomb 
of  the  Chishti  Shaik  Salim,  a  marvel  of  filigree  in  snowy 
stone  that  represents  in  marble  a  masterpiece  as  deli- 
cately wrought  as  the  most  intricate  example  of  the 
ivory  carver's  art.  Through  doors  of  ebony  one  enters 
the  dim  interior  where  lies  the  tomb  of  the  saint,  under 
a  canopy  of  mother-of-pearl  and  enclosed  in  walls  of 
delicate  ivory-tinted  lacework  that  seem  as  frail  as 
cobwebs,  but  are  carved  from  slabs  of  solid  stone. 
Nearby  is  the  Great  Mosque,  a  copy  of  the  one  at  Mecca, 


206  Aloha  Around  the  World 

and  across  the  wide  flagged  courtyard  stands  the  huge 
Gate  of  Victory,  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  high  and 
bearing  on  its  facade  the  inscription  "Isa  (Jesus)  on 
whom  be  peace,  said :  'The  world  is  a  bridge,  pass  over  it 
but  build  no  house  on  it.  The  world  endures  but  an  hour, 
spend  it  in  devotion.' "  Just  around  the  corner  outside 
the  gate  was  a  large  well  into  which  skinny,  white  whisk- 
ered mountebanks  jumped  for  our  delectation  and  a 
little  bakshish  from  the  crenelated  summit  of  the  wall 
eighty  feet  above.  We  hurried  back  to  Agra  to  seek 
shelter  from  the  glowing  mid-day  sun  and  shortly  be- 
fore four  were  on  our  way  to  Delhi  which  we  reached  at 
eight.  Maiden's  Hotel  was  too  full  to  absorb  our  numer- 
ous party,  but  at  the  Cecil  we  found  agreeable  and  con- 
venient quarters. 

Tuesday,  March  14th.  Delhi. — Shahjahanabad  or 
modern  Delhi — once  the  capital  of  India  under  the 
Mogul  emperors  and  again  elevated  to  this  dignity  on 
the  occasion  of  the  Great  Durbar  in  191 1 — is  the  sixth 
or  seventh  Delhi  that  has  occupied  this  general  site,  so 
that  the  country  for  miles  round  about  is  sprinkled 
with  the  remains  of  countless  ancient  fortresses,  palaces, 
and  especially  tombs,  and  it  is  an  appalling  task  to  at- 
tempt to  bring  order  into  the  chaos  of  myths  and 
suppositions,  sackings  and  massacres,  dates  and  polysyl- 
labic names  of  rulers  and  invaders  that  make  up  its 
history.  After  a  morning  spent  in  the  shops  and  along 
the  main  artery  of  Delhi's  trade,  the  famous  Chandni 
Chauk,  we  went  in  the  afternoon  with  Mrs.  Kennedy 
Crawford  Stewart,  the  American  wife  of  the  Military 


Fatehpur  Sikri 

The  city  of  palaces,  mosques,  and  audience  halls  which  Akbar,  The  Great  Mogul,  built 
his  capital  and  afterwards  abandoned. 


Light  and  Shade  in  Agra  Fort 

The  opposite  shore  of  the  Jumna  is  seen  framed  by  the  arch  of  one  of  the  many  pavilions 
built  on  the  ramparts  of  the  Fort. 

'  V. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     207 

Secretary  to  the  Viceroy,  and  her  sister  Miss  Wheeler, 
to  one  of  the  most  historically  interesting  spots  of  all, 
the  ruins  of  Kutb  eleven  miles  south  of  the  city.  Here 
still  stands  the  beautiful  Kutb  Minar  or  tower  of 
victory,  a  graceful  column  of  fluted  sandstone  two 
hundred  and  thirty-eight  feet  high  and  considered  one 
of  the  great  sights  of  India.  Near  its  base  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  Kutb-ul-Islam  mosque,  with  the  famous 
iron  pillar  dating  back  to  the  first  century  and  bearing 
an  interesting  Sanscrit  inscription.  It  was  very  plea- 
sant to  have  tea  in  the  government  rest-house  at  this 
quiet  spot  so  rich  in  the  memories  of  former  greatness, 
and  then  by  way  of  contrast  on  the  way  back  we 
stopped  to  see  what  had  been  planned  for  the  Delhi  of 
the  future.  On  a  great  plain  south  of  the  city  the  govern- 
ment is  constructing  a  group  of  administration  build- 
ings on  a  vast  scale,  and  the  architect  in  charge  of 
the  work,  Mr.  Luytjens,  explained  the  project  to  us  by 
the  aid  of  an  elaborate  model.  Arthur  and  Harriet 
dined  with  the  Stewarts  and  the  rest  of  us  after 
dinner  went  to  see  again  Mr.  Imre  Schwaiger's  unique 
collection  of  jewels  and  antiques. 

Wednesday,  March  15th.  Delhi. — While  it  was  still 
cool  we  drove  out  to  the  tomb  of  the  Emperor  Humayun 
erected  by  his  son  Akbar  and  supposed  to  have  furnished 
the  inspiration  for  the  design  of  the  Taj  a  century  later. 
One  approaches  it  through  a  fine  gate  and  fore-court 
and  then  finds  the  great  red  sandstone  building  relieved 
with  pleasing  decorations  of  white  marble,  standing  on  a 
high  stone  terrace  and  in  general  effect  strongly  remi- 


208  Aloha  Around  the  World 

niscent  of  the  Taj .  Though  it  lacks  the  delicate  harmony 
of  proportion  and  detail,  the  exquisite  purity  and  at- 
mosphere of  that  wonder  of  wonders,  it  is  a  fine  creation, 
and  interesting  as  the  larger,  cruder  prototype  of  the 
more  poetic  and  refined  conception  that  was  to  come 
later.  It  was  to  this  place  that  at  the  close  of  the  mutiny 
Bahadur  Shah,  the  last  King  of  Delhi,  fled  after  the  cap- 
ture of  the  city  and  then  surrendered  to  Lieut.  Hodson. 
Around  a  sharp  turn  not  far  from  here  we  found  another 
little  gem  of  Moslem  art,  the  shrine  of  Nizam-ud-din- 
Aulia.  The  entrance  is  not  prepossessing,  and  bare 
white-washed  passageways  in  the  outer  building  lead 
past  the  sacred  tank  miraculously  constructed  by  the 
saint.  Then  one  comes  suddenly  on  a  delightful  little 
courtyard  shaded  by  spreading  trees  with  the  mau- 
soleum in  the  center,  the  red  sandstone  mosque  called 
Jamat  Kana  at  one  side,  and  various  other  tombs  in 
enclosures  of  exquisitely  carved  marble  nearby.  The 
most  interesting  of  these  is  that  of  Jahanara,  daughter 
of  Shah  Jahan  and  Mumtaz-i-Mahal,  who  remained  de- 
voted to  her  father  in  his  captivity  after  his  reckless 
extravagance  at  last  caused  him  to  be  deposed  and  suc- 
ceeded by  his  son  Aurangzeb.  Her  simple  grave  is 
open  to  the  sky  and  covered  only  by  a  little  patch  of 
grass,  planted  there  in  accordance  with  her  wish  re- 
corded on  the  marble  slab  beside  it.  On  returning  to 
the  city  the  others  repaired  again  to  the  shops,  but  Fluff, 
William,  and  I  called  on  Mrs.  Crawford  Stewart  and 
drove  with  her  through  the  vice-regal  gardens,  flanked 
by  long  rows  of  permanent  tents  which  serve  as  offices 


o 


c 


3  -> 


a» 


««    d 

O     O 

>.  » 
o  t; 

O     d 

*  6 


2  a 


:*]  fc 

!  t«- 

e 

R^flEf 

t 

1* 

W 

IS 

Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     209 

for  the  officials.  On  the  way  back  we  took  the  Ridge 
Road  past  the  Flag  Staff  Tower  where  the  women  and 
children  were  sent  for  safety  during  the  mutiny,  and  the 
rather  banal  Mutiny  Monument,  and  saw  Asoka's 
pillar,  a  stone  column  over  two  thousand  years  old 
which  after  various  vicissitudes  has  finally  been  re- 
erected  here.  The  late  afternoon  was  devoted  to  the 
Fort,  a  group  of  buildings  something  like  that  at  Agra 
though  less  extensive  and  varied,  but  no  less  beautiful 
and  in  some  respects  even  more  so  through  the  lawns  and 
flower  beds  that  fill  the  open  spaces.  Here  is  another 
Pearl  Mosque  built  by  Aurangzeb  in  1659,  the  great 
Audience  Hall  or  Diwan-i-am,  the  royal  baths,  the  Sul- 
tana's residence,  a  living  room  furnished  in  all  respects 
as  it  was  in  the  days  of  the  emperor  and  looking  as  if 
he  had  just  stepped  out  for  a  moment  to  order  someone's 
head  chopped  off,  charming  little  pavilions  overlooking 
the  Jumna,  and  most  beautiful  of  all,  the  wonderful 
Diwan-i-khas  or  Hall  of  Private  Audience.  Here  in 
this  lovely  setting  of  white  marble  with  every  arch  and 
panel  inlaid  with  intricate  marquetry  of  colored  stone 
once  stood  the  famous  Peacock  Throne,  made  entirely 
of  solid  gold  encrusted  with  sapphires,  rubies,  emeralds, 
pearls  and  diamonds  and  with  the  koh-i-nur  for  one  of 
the  peacock's  eyes,  but  looted  by  the  Persian  Nadir 
Shah  in  1739  and  never  again  heard  of.  In  the  heyday 
of  its  glory  this  gorgeous  hall  must  have  been  indeed  a 
place  of  the  most  extravagant  luxury,  and  to  the  orien- 
tal mind  may  well  have  merited  the  enthusiastic  in- 
scription over  the  arches  at  either  end: 


210  Aloha  Around  the  World 

If  there  is  a  paradise  on  the  face  of  the  earth, 
It  is  this,  oh !  it  is  this,  oh !  it  is  this 

Visitors  are  required  to  leave  the  Fort  early  or  we  should 
have  lingered  on  indefinitely,  but  as  it  was  we  took  ad- 
vantage of  the  daylight  still  remaining  to  drive  again 
along  the  ridge  road  past  the  Durbar  field  where  was 
held  the  great  ceremony  in  191 1 ,  and  through  the  pretty 
Roshanara  Gardens,  laid  out  by  another  daughter  of 
Shah  Jahan's  who  lies  buried  here.  Mrs.  Crawford 
Stewart  and  Miss  Wheeler  came  for  tea  at  the  hotel  as 
well  as  Col.  Dr.  Cary  Evans  and  Mrs.  Evans,  who  is  a 
daughter  of  Lloyd  George. 

Thursday,  March  16th.  Delhi. — The  great  mosque  or 
Jami  Masjid,  said  to  be  the  largest  in  India,  is  splendidly 
placed  well  above  the  busy  streets  around  it  so  that  it  is 
approached  by  a  stately  flight  of  steps  leading  to  a  high 
arched  gateway.  Through  the  central  portal  only  the 
Emperor  used  to  pass  and  now  it  opens  only  for  the 
Viceroy,  but  through  the  other  entrances  each  Friday 
morning  twelve  to  fifteen  thousand  worshipers  push 
into  the  great  quadrangle,  three  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  feet  square  enclosed  on  three  sides  by  cloisters  and 
fronting  the  mosque  itself.  It  is  a  truly  impressive  place 
of  worship  with  its  graceful  domes  and  slender  minarets, 
a  pleasing  combination  of  sandstone  and  marble.  In 
one  corner  of  the  cloisters  are  shown  relics  of  Mo- 
hammed; a  page  of  his  writing,  his  slipper  kept  in  a  box 
of  jasmine  flowers,  and  a  henna-stained  hair  from  his 
beard.  Afterwards  I  went  back  to  the  Fort  to  loiter 
awhile  in  the  ''Life  Giving  Gardens"  and  through  the 


q  -:r 


4)     4) 


1  .2 


o   » 

Q.    a] 

s  e 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     211 

halls  and  pavilions  that  had  been  the  scenes  of  so  much 
magnificence  and  also  of  so  much  cruelty  and  blood- 
shed. Harriet  and  Arthur  and  the  Smiths  had  accepted 
an  invitation  for  luncheon  from  the  Viceroy  and 
Lady  Reading,  and  later  some  of  us  visited  the  Jain 
temple  near  the  Great  Mosque,  a  truly  beautiful  build- 
ing of  white  marble  very  different  from  the  cheap 
and  showy  affair  in  Calcutta.  We  all  had  tea  with 
the  Sherwoods,  Boston  friends  of  Joe  and  Corinna's, 
when  Mrs.  Sherwood  who  was  Rosina  Emmet,  showed 
us  some  charming  water-color  sketches  she  had  made 
in  the  Philippines  and  in  India.  Then  came  the 
parting  of  the  ways.  While  the  others  were  leaving  late 
that  evening  for  Bombay  on  the  way  to  Vadala  to  visit 
Edward  Fairbank's  mission  there,  Fluff,  William,  and 
I  had  decided  that  the  opportunity  of  seeing  a  purely 
native  state  not  subject  to  British  rule  should  not  be 
missed,  and  after  an  early  dinner  we  drove  for  the  last 
time  through  the  famous  Kashmir  Gate  and  departed 
for  Jaipur. 

Friday,  March  iyth.  Jaipur. — It  was  still  pitch  dark 
at  four-forty  when  we  tumbled  out  on  the  platform  at 
Jaipur  to  find  the  station  gaily  decorated  with  flags 
and  banners,  but  to  our  disappointment  we  soon  learned 
that  this  was  not  for  us  but  for  the  Viceroy  who  was 
expected  to  arrive  later  in  the  day.  A  crowd  of  cough- 
ing coolies  swathed  to  the  eyebrows  in  all  manner  of 
wrappings,  for  to  them  the  morning  air  seemed  very 
chilly,  bundled  us  into  a  rickety  carriage,  piled  our  bags 
into  another  and  started  us  rattling  off  to  the  hotel, 


212  Aloha  Around  the  World 

which  as  usual  was  a  mile  or  more  away.  The  Sher- 
woods  who  had  come  on  the  same  train  at  once  retired 
for  further  sleep,  but  as  we  were  taking  our  chota  hazri 
the  sun  started  to  come  up  with  such  splendor  that  we 
preferred  to  sit  on  our  balcony  and  watch  Jaipur  take 
shape  before  our  eyes.  Monkeys  skipped  along  the 
nearby  walls,  peacocks  squawked  discordantly,  and 
myriads  of  pigeons  and  other  birds  cooed  and  chattered 
all  about.  Later  we  learned  that  except  by  special 
favor  the  Maharaja  permits  no  birds  or  animals  what- 
ever to  be  killed,  not  even  tigers  unless  definitely  known 
to  be  man-eaters,  so  living  creatures  of  all  kinds  abound 
and  tigers  are  often  seen  on  the  hill  facing  our  windows 
and  only  a  few  miles  away.  A  few  hundred  feet  from 
the  hotel  in  some  huts  by  the  roadside  were  several 
hunting  cheetahs,  beautiful,  speckled  monster  cats 
fastened  only  with  collar  and  chain  as  a  dog  would  be, 
and  also  a  hunting  lynx,  a  sleek  active  looking  little 
creature  trained  to  catch  kites  in  the  air  by  leaping  up- 
ward on  them  as  they  swoop  down  toward  a  bait.  In 
the  fine  Public  Garden,  a  most  attractive  park  with 
beautiful  examples  of  tropical  vegetation,  we  saw  some 
handsome  tigers  and  panthers  but  later  on  at  the  end 
of  the  street  facing  the  Tripolyia  Gate  we  discovered  a 
series  of  cages  containing  half  a  dozen  of  the  largest  and 
finest  tigers,  most  of  them  said  to  have  been  man-eaters, 
we  had  ever  seen  and  when  their  keeper  made  them 
prance  about  and  roar  it  was  a  remarkable  spectacle. 
The  streets  were  extraordinarily  interesting,  very  wide 
and  well  paved,  crossing  at  right  angles  and  teeming 


A  Pavilion  in  the  Delhi  Fort 

A  charming  little  building  in  one  corner  of  the  "Life-Giving  Gardens. 


Hunting  Cheetahs 

By  the  open  roadside  in  Jaipur  lived  the  owner  of  these  cheetahs,  trained  for  use  in  hunting 

antelope  and  deer. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     213 

with  the  most  picturesquely  garbed  multitudes  we  have 
yet  encountered.  Donkeys,  sacred  cows,  camels, 
"raths"  or  little  carriages  drawn  by  swiftly  trotting  di- 
minutive white  bullocks,  even  gaily  caparisoned  ele- 
phants made  their  way  through  the  crowds  collected 
about  the  fountains  where  the  women  filled  their  water 
jars  and  bore  them  away  on  their  heads,  graceful  figures 
in  red  or  yellow  saris.  The  houses  on  the  principal 
streets  were  several  stories  high,  rose-pink  in  color  and 
ornamented  with  white  arabesques  outlining  a  fascinat- 
ing variety  of  oddly  shaped  little  windows  and  balconies. 
We  also  spent  some  time  in  the  museum,  a  handsome 
building  containing  excellent  collections  which  in  addi- 
tion to  examples  of  ancient  and  modern  Indian  arts  and 
crafts  include  models  of  such  things  as  steam  engines, 
electrical  machinery,  chemical  apparatus,  ocean  liners, 
etc. ,  for  the  instruction  of  the  natives  in  the  development 
of  modern  science.  The  Maharaja's  palace  was  being 
spruced  up  for  the  coming  visit  of  the  Viceroy  and  the 
courts  about  the  Hall  of  Audience  were  already  gay  with 
bunting,  but  the  general  impression  given  by  the  build- 
ings and  the  extensive  grounds  was  one  of  being  down 
at  the  heel.  This  may  be  due  to  the  fact  that  the  Maha- 
raja's domestic  budget  is  so  heavy,  for  he  is  expected  to 
support  in  idleness  the  entire  family  of  each  one  of  his 
forty-five  wives.  In  the  lake  are  a  number  of  large 
crocodiles  which  formerly  were  used  for  the  execution 
of  condemned  prisoners  who  were  thrown  in  to  them, 
but  now  they  rise  to  the  lure  of  a  piece  of  liver  on  the 
end  of  a  rope  and  come  up  on  the  shore  to  be  admired 


214  Aloha  Around  the  World 

and  photographed.  Close  to  the  palace  grounds  is  the 
observatory  constructed  in  1 718  by  the  celebrated  royal 
astronomer,  Jai  Singh.  It  is  a  large  open  space  on  which 
have  been  erected  a  curious  assemblage  of  instruments, 
gigantic  dials,  quadrants,  meridian  circles,  etc.,  of 
masonry,  including  a  gnomon  seventy  feet  high  whose 
shadow  moves  thirteen  feet  an  hour.  From  here  we 
hurried  to  keep  an  appointment  with  an  elephant  wait- 
ing for  us  outside  the  Surya  Gate  to  bear  us  up  the 
steeply  winding  pathway  to  the  hilltop  shrine  of  the 
Sun  God  at  Gait  a.  The  view  over  the  city  from  the 
heights  was  well  worth  while  but  still  more  so  was  Fluff's 
delight  that  in  the  words  of  the  beautiful  song  she 
should  "have  elephants  to  ride  upon"  on  St.  Patrick's 
day  even  though  the  bells  on  her  toes  were  lacking. 

Saturday,  March  18th.  Jaipur. — Nowhere  else  in 
the  world  can  there  possibly  be  so  many  peacocks  as 
along  the  road  to  Amber  and  Fluff  who  has  a  great  fail- 
ing for  the  bird  sacred  to  Juno  was  in  a  constant  twitter 
of  excitement  as  we  sped  on  with  big,  gray,  curly  tailed 
monkeys  cavorting  along  beside  us  on  the  tops  of  the 
garden  walls.  In  the  courtyard  at  the  foot  of  the  hill 
our  waiting  elephant  raised  his  trunk  in  greeting,  a  fine 
old  tusker  of  great  size  with  red  painted  face  and  rings 
in  his  ears,  who  carried  us  with  much  dignity  up  the 
long  inclines  of  the  path  to  the  palace  and  fortress  on 
the  summit  of  the  ridge.  On  reaching  the  great  entrance 
courtyard  we  went  on  past  a  temple  to  Kali  where  each 
morning  a  goat  is  sacrificed  in  memory  of  earlier  times 
when  human  beings  were  the  offering,  and  climbed  from 


D       S 


2    ^  .2 

5  °  .£ 

6  3  c 


'* 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques      215 

one  level  to  another,  seeing  Halls  of  Audience,  Halls  of 
Victory,  and  Halls  of  Pleasure;  pretty  pavilions  with 
graceful  columns,  delicate  marble  screens,  and  walls 
inlaid  with  colored  stone  or  bits  of  looking  glass;  little 
garden  plots,  and  balconies  clinging  to  the  palace  walls 
high  above  the  sheer  descents;  sights  that  once  would 
have  caused  us  to  exclaim  with  wonder  and  delight  but 
which  now  suffered  by  comparison  with  the  incompar- 
able beauties  of  Agra  and  of  Delhi.    But  the  views  of 
the  distant  mountains  and  the  village-dotted  plain  and 
of  the  artificial  lake  and  water-garden  immediately 
below  us  were  very  fine,  and  impressed  us  with  the  com- 
manding situation  of  this  ancient  capital.   At  the  foot  of 
the  ascent  we  changed  again  from  elephant  to  car,  but 
found  the  modern  form  of  conveyance  less  reliable,  for 
its  engine  refused  to  start  and  as  each  new  attempt  to 
stir  it  into  life  seemed  to  result  only  in  a  more  complete 
disorganization  of  its  vital  parts,  we  decided  to  set  out 
on  the  five  mile  drive  back  to  town  in  the  first  vehicle 
that  offered.    This  was  a  native  fourth  class  garry  in 
which  we  stowed  ourselves  with  some  difficulty  and 
then  rattled  and  bumped  along  for  two  or  three  miles 
to  the  joy  of  all  the  passersby,  till  finally  the  re-vivified 
motor  overtook  us.     At  our  yesterday's  visit  to  the 
establishment  of  Zoraster,  a  local  Pooh  Bah  who  com- 
bines the  functions  of  rug  weaver,  brass  worker,  curio 
dealer,  banker,  and  leading  citizen,  he  had  invited  us  to 
lunch  today  and  a  very  interesting  meal  it  was.    Thirty 
courses  by  actual  count  appeared,  each  consisting  of 
some  form  of  sweetmeat  or  mixture  of  milk,  sugar, 


216  Aloha  Around  the  World 

butter,  rice,  peas,  pulse,  and  curry  or  other  purely 
vegetable  combination,  all  meat  and  even  eggs  being 
considered  unfit  for  food.  Our  host  and  the  male  mem- 
bers of  his  family  conversed  with  us  through  the  meal 
but  did  not  join  in  eating  it,  and  of  the  women  of  the 
household  we  of  course  saw  nothing.  In  the  courtyard 
in  front  of  the  house  was  a  long  row  of  looms  at  which 
tiny  boys  squatting  in  rows  worked  at  weaving  rugs, 
choosing  the  colored  wools  and  knotting  them  with 
lightning-like  speed  in  response  to  the  instructions  of  an 
overseer  who  kept  reading  aloud  the  directions  for  the 
patterns  from  a  written  record,  the  little  workers  repeat- 
ing each  phrase  after  him  like  an  antiphonal  chant.  In 
spite  of  the  heat  William  and  I  visited  some  of  the  shops 
in  the  afternoon  and  in  the  course  of  one  elusive  bargain 
hunt  ignorantly  penetrated  into  the  grounds  of  the 
Rambagh  or  official  residence  for  visitors  of  high  rank, 
now  prepared  for  the  Viceroy's  stay.  In  the  gardens 
here  was  a  big  pavilion  filled  with  Jaipur's  choicest 
wares  brought  by  the  leading  merchants  for  the  dis- 
tinguished visitor's  inspection  later  in  the  afternoon,  and 
we  had  a  good  time  looking  at  things  till  it  was  discov- 
ered that  we  had  no  business  to  be  there  and  were 
invited  to  withdraw. 

We  were  very  sorry  to  leave  Jaipur's  pink  stucco 
streets  with  their  kaleidoscopic  crowds  and  the  camels, 
elephants,  cheetahs,  peacocks,  monkeys,  crocodiles  and 
tigers.  In  this  city  of  prismatic  color  and  infinite  variety, 
where  life  is  more  distinctively  native  than  in  any  other 
place  that  we  have  visited  it  appeared  as  if  the  citizens 


Jaipur 

The  pink  stucco  houses  with  their  fagades  fancifully 


arabesqued  in  white,  give  the  Jaipur 
streets  a  very  characteristic  appearance. 


A  Camel  Team 

The  equipage  of  one  of  Jaipur's  leading  citizens;  a  break  drawn  by  two  swiftly  trotting 

camels. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     217 

were  more  prosperous  and  contented,  better  nourished 
and  more  good  humored  than  the  apathetic  and 
melancholy  people  that  represent  the  average  of 
India's  population,  and  we  should  have  liked  to  see  more 
of  them.  But  our  time  was  up  and  on  the  seven-fifteen 
train  we  left  for  Bombay,  stopping  for  a  very  poor 
dinner  in  the  station  restaurant  at  Phutera. 

Sunday,  March  igth.  Ahmedabad. — It  was  a  scorch- 
ing day  and  there  was  little  in  the  sun-baked  plains  we 
were  passing  through  to  distract  attention  from  the 
heat.  Early  in  the  day  in  the  region  of  Mount  Abu 
where  we  stopped  for  breakfast  the  country  showed  a 
slight  tendency  to  hilliness  but  most  of  the  time  it  was 
very  flat  and  dull.  Owing  to  the  fact  that  robbers  had 
derailed  a  train  on  the  main  line  ahead  we  were  obliged 
to  make  a  detour  and  travel  by  sidelines,  but  in  spite  of 
this,  arrived  at  Ahmedabad  at  four- thirty  about  on  time. 
This  is  a  populous  city  with  crowded  streets  lined  by 
houses  remarkable  for  the  fine  carving  of  the  woodwork 
in  their  fronts,  and  was  at  one  time  considered  the 
handsomest  town  in  Hindustan.  Many  of  the  people 
are  Jains  and  the  raised  feeding  platforms  for  birds 
that  are  seen  in  all  the  streets  are  evidence  of  the  re- 
spect for  animal  life  that  is  one  of  the  doctrines  of  this 
sect.  Outside  of  the  city  is  a  large  artificial  lake  or 
tank,  polygonal  in  shape  with  thirty-four  sides  of 
masonry  each  one  hundred  and  ninety  feet  long.  By 
its  shores  were  crowds  of  unusually  tame  monkeys 
eager  to  be  fed,  and  some  distance  further  on  was  the 
tomb  of  Shah  Alam  with  some  fine  marble  screens. 


218  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Driving  back  to  the  city  we  visited  various  mosques 
and  tombs  including  the  big  Jain  temple,  and  saw  the 
famous  windows  of  pierced  marble  tracery  in  Sidi 
Saiyad's  mosque.  The  Grand  Hotel  which  was  formerly 
a  dak  bungalow  was  anything  but  grand  in  fact,  but  the 
dinner  there  was  better  than  the  usual  railway  restaurant 
meal  would  have  been  and  at  nine-fifty  we  were  on  the 
train  again  on  the  last  stage  of  our  journey  to  Bombay. 
Monday,  March  20th.  Bombay. — Sherkhan  was  on 
hand  in  the  Bombay  station  to  greet  us  as  we  left  the 
train  at  eleven-thirty,  and  guided  us  to  the  Taj  Mahal 
hotel  where  we  were  welcomed  by  the  rest  of  the  party. 
Harriet  and  Arthur  and  the  Smiths  lunched  with  the 
Governor,  Sir  George  Lloyd,  and  the  rest  of  us  were 
taken  by  Mr.  Osborne  to  the  Yacht  Club  which  is  con- 
viently  situated  in  the  center  of  the  town  and  is  very 
attractive.  We  all  foregathered  afterwards  to  go  under 
Mr.  Osborne's  tutelage  on  a  government  boat  he  had  in 
some  way  requisitioned,  to  the  Island  of  Elephanta,  six 
miles  out  in  the  harbor.  Here  a  climb  of  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  up  a  flight  of  stone  steps  brought  us  to  the 
caves  in  which  are  the  famous  rock  temples  dating  back 
to  the  eighth  century.  In  the  dim  recesses  are  colonnades 
of  finely  sculptured  pillars  and  well-executed  friezes, 
representing  some  of  the  complex  episodes  of  Hindu 
mythology  recording  the  greatness  of  Siva  and  of  Par- 
vati,  his  spouse.  We  all  dined  together  at  the  Yacht 
Club  and  then  the  James,  the  Smiths,  and  Peter  de- 
parted on  the  ten  o'clock  train  for  Poona,  the  first  stop 
on  their  way  to  Vadala. 


A  Man-Eating  Crocodile 

In  the  grounds  of  the  Maharajah's  palace  is  a  lake  containing  crocodiles,  which  at  one  time 
were  used  for  the  execution  of  criminals. 


Elephants  at  Amber 

The  elephants  that  make  the  trip  up  to  the  palaces  at  Amber.    Miss  Sullivan  is  trying  out  a 

camel. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     219 

Tuesday,  March  2ist.  Bombay. — This  has  been  a  day 
of  leisure  for  Bombay  is  a  big,  fine,  modern,  largely 
Europeanized  city  that  does  not  offer  much  to  tempt 
sightseers  accustomed  as  we  have  lately  been  to  the  most 
characteristic  and  beautiful  things  in  all  India.  Mr. 
Osborne  drove  William  and  me  about  the  different 
quarters  of  the  city,  from  Colaba  at  the  tip  of  the  island 
on  which  Bombay  is  built  around  the  Back  Bay  up  to 
the  aristocratic  residential  section  on  Malabar  Hill, 
and  to  the  Byculla  Club  that  derives  its  curious  name 
from  an  old  village  once  occupying  its  site.  Here  he 
had  arranged  a  dinner  party  for  us  tonight,  a  pleasant 
occasion  with  the  tables  placed  on  the  lawn  as  ladies 
are  not  permitted  in  the  club  house  itself. 

Wednesday,  March  22nd.  Bombay. — Mr.  and  Mrs. 
North  Winship,  the  American  Consul  and  his  wife  who 
have  recently  come  here  from  Milan  have  been  most 
kind  and  attentive  and  today  invited  us  to  lunch  in  their 
very  pretty  bungalow  on  Malabar  Hill.  After  dinner 
this  evening,  Mr.  Osborne  took  us  to  a  native  wedding 
celebration  to  which  we  had  been  invited  through  his 
chief  assistant  Mr.  Vajdya.  The  street  in  front  of  the 
house  was  gay  with  festoons  of  electric  lights  and 
colored  streamers  and  most  of  the  guests  were  enjoying 
the  party  out  here  since  the  crowd  was  too  great  to  find 
room  indoors.  Inside,  the  walls  were  draped  with 
light-blue  hangings  and  almost  covered  with  mirrors 
(hired  like  all  the  trappings  we  were  told  for  the  occa- 
sion) and  at  one  end  of  the  long,  narrow  room  a  nautch 
dancing  girl  said  to  be  an  artiste  of  great  beauty  and 


220  Aloha  Around  the  World 

merit,  but  appearing  to  us  rather  portly  and  middle- 
aged,  wriggled  about  a  bit,  and  with  an  equally  unat- 
tractive companion,  sang  long  songs  in  tones  of  piercing 
monotony.  Cigarettes,  sweetmeats,  ices,  and  brightly 
colored  drinks  were  pressed  upon  us  and  we  met  with  a 
most  courteous  reception  from  our  host  and  his  friends. 
The  bridegroom  was  a  nice  looking  boy  of  fifteen  all  in 
white  and  heavily  garnished  with  gold  chains,  but  the 
bride  of  course  we  did  not  see,  for  she  does  not  appear  at 
all  at  these  ceremonies  which  are  repeated  for  several 
nights  in  succession ;  her  part  in  it  all  apparently  being 
just  about  as  important  as  that  of  the  bridegroom  at  one 
of  our  own  weddings.  As  we  took  our  leave  garlands  of 
flowers  much  like  the  Hawaiian  lets  were  placed  about 
our  necks,  we  were  handed  big  bouquets  and  given  two 
coconuts  each  to  take  home  with  us. 

Thursday,  March  23rd. — I  spent  the  morning  seeing 
the  five  hundred  bed  Jamsetjee  Jeejeebhoy  Hospital 
under  the  guidance  of  the  chief  physician  Col.  Tucker 
and  then  met  Fluff  and  Mr.  Osborne  for  luncheon  at  the 
Yacht  Club,  while  William  went  off  to  join  several 
Maharajas  at  a  luncheon  party  at  the  Governor's. 
Afterwards  we  met  at  the  Towers  of  Silence  on  Malabar 
Hill  where  in  a  pretty  park  with  a  fine  view  of  the  city 
and  the  bay  are  five  low  towers  somewhat  resembling 
roundhouses  for  locomotive  engines,  used  by  the  Parsees 
for  the  disposal  of  their  dead.  Of  the  hundred  thousand 
or  more  Parsees  in  India  over  eighty  thousand  live  in 
Bombay  where  they  form  a  highly  respected  and  pros- 
perous portion  of  the  community,  often  recognizable 


Amber 

The  hilltop  palaces  at  Amber,  reflected  in  the  pool  of  the  water  garden. 


A  Garry 

Garrys  come  in  various  degrees  of  excellence.     This  one  is  officially  recognized  as  belonging 

to  the  fourth  class. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     221 

in  the  streets  by  a  peculiar,  shiny,  black  headdress  said 
to  be  designed  in  imitation  of  a  cow's  hoof.  As  is  well 
known,  in  order  to  avoid  polluting  the  elements  fire, 
air,  earth,  or  water  which  are  held  in  veneration  they 
have  adopted  the  method  of  disposing  of  the  dead  by 
exposing  the  bodies  on  the  summits  of  the  towers,  where 
the  flesh  is  removed  from  the  bones  in  an  hour  or  two  by 
the  hordes  of  vultures  that  are  always  sitting  around  in 
watchful  waiting,  and  the  clean  picked  bones  are  finally 
thrown  into  a  central  pit  where  they  ultimately  crumble 
into  dust.  The  Winships  had  asked  us  to  come  to  them 
for  tea  and  after  bidding  these  nice  people  farewell  we 
returned  to  the  hotel  to  pack  and  have  an  early  dinner 
preparatory  to  leaving  on  the  Madras  mail.  Mr. 
Vajdya  from  Mr.  Osborne's  office  and  his  assistant  came 
to  see  William  off,  and  after  making  him  a  farewell 
speech  presented  us  all  three  with  garlands  of  flowers 
and  bouquets.  We  then  said  good-bye  with  much  re- 
gret to  Mr.  Osborne  who  has  done  so  much  for  us,  mak- 
ing arrangements  and  plans  long  before  we  reached 
India  and  assisting  at  every  stage  of  the  journey  after 
our  arrival. 

Friday,  March  24th.  Bombay  to  Madras. — In  the 
early  morning  hours  the  car  containing  the  other  mem- 
bers of  the  party  was  attached  to  the  train  when  it 
stopped  in  Poona,  and  at  breakfast  time  we  were  re- 
united and  heard  the  story  of  their  adventures.  On 
Tuesday  morning  they  had  arrived  in  Poona  at  six 
o'clock  and  the  Smiths  remained  there  while  the  others 
went  on  by  motor  one  hundred  miles  to  Edward  Fair- 


222  Aloha  Around  the  World 

bank's  home  in  Vadala.  Here  they  were  received  in 
triumph  by  the  whole  Christian  community  with  flags 
flying,  and  after  lunch  there  was  a  ceremony  of  welcome 
at  which  they  were  decorated  with  wreaths,  speeches 
were  made,  and  hymns  sung,  and  they  were  then  con- 
ducted through  the  native  village.  The  next  morning 
they  motored  to  one  of  the  hundred  or  more  villages 
contained  in  Mr.  Fairbank's  territory  which  is  forty 
miles  square.  Here  they  saw  some  of  the  fine  work  that 
has  been  done  in  building  up  a  center  of  Christian  educa- 
tion by  the  Fairbank  family,  five  generations  of  which 
have  lived  or  are  living  in  India.  In  the  forty-three 
primary  schools  of  the  district  splendid  educational 
work  is  being  carried  on  and  the  most  promising  stu- 
dents are  transferred  to  the  boarding  school  in  the  home 
compound  where  there  is  also  a  church  holding  sixteen 
hundred  people.  That  afternoon  Peter  went  hunting 
and  established  a  reputation  as  a  Hawkeye  by  killing  a 
fine  buck  at  an  immense  distance  by  a  perfect  shoulder 
shot.  On  Thursday  morning  they  left  Vadala  and 
breakfasted  with  Dr.  Hume  at  Ahmednagar,  later 
visiting  the  mission  school  for  boys  and  girls,  the  theo- 
logical school,  hospital,  nurses*  home,  and  church,  and 
then  going  on  to  Poona.  Today's  railroad  journey  on 
the  way  to  Madras  has  been  very  hot  and  trying,  with 
long  and  frequent  stops  and  has  demonstrated  the  in- 
advisability  of  attempting  to  do  any  more  traveling 
in  Southern  India. 

Saturday,  March  25th.     Madras. — At  seven  forty- 
five  we  rolled  into  the  station  at  Madras  and  were  de- 


The  Rock  Temple  at  Elephanta 

Six  miles  out  in  the  harbor  of  Bombay  is  the  Island  of  Elephanta  with  its  curious  cave 
temples  excavated  from  the  solid  rock. 


Rest  House  at  Sigirya 

In  the  smaller  places  of  India  and  Ceylon  there  are  no  hotels,  but  travelers  may  stop,  for  not 
longer  than  three  days,  at  the  Government  rest  houses. 


Mogul  Palaces,  Tombs,  Mosques     223 

lighted  to  find  Captain  Bezanson  waiting  on  the  station 
platform  with  the  report  that  everything  was  well  on 
board,  and  still  more  so  to  get  back  to  the  yacht  our- 
selves and  settle  down  again  in  our  own  quarters  which 
never  had  seemed  so  desirable.  Harriet  and  Arthur, 
Fluff,  and  William  were  invited  for  lunch  by  the  Gov- 
ernor, Lord  Willingdon  and  afterwards  drove  out  to  the 
Governor's  country  house  in  Guindy  Park.  Lady 
Willingdon  was  much  interested  in  Aloha's  journey,  for 
she  is  a  daughter  of  Lord  Brassey  and  is  the  "Baby" 
of  Lady  Brassey 's  famous  account  of  the  Voyage  of  the 
Sunbeam.  Harriet  and  Fluff  then  went  to  the  Y.  W. 
C.  A.  and  Peter  and  Joe  to  the  aquarium  and  to  the 
museum  which  has  some  fine  antiquities.  At  six  we 
were  under  way  again  and  headed  for  Ceylon. 

Sunday,  March  26th.  Madras  to  Colombo. — After 
twenty-five  days  on  shore  it  was  wonderfully  pleasant 
to  be  at  sea  again  and  though  it  was  still  pretty  hot 
there  was  breeze  enough  to  make  one  forget  the  stifling 
temperature  of  the  past  few  days,  and  the  clean  blue  ocean 
with  its  delicious  fragrance  soon  drove  away  all  memory 
of  those  arid,  dusty  plains  that  had  filled  the  horizon  for 
so  long.  We  are  delighting  in  the  simple  joys  of  being 
thoroughly  clean  again  and  of  being  able  to  stay  so,  and 
of  having  eatables  and  drinkables  set  before  us  that  are 
like  Caesar's  wife;  pleasures  that  the  traveler  in  India 
must  renounce. 

Lat.  io°49/  N.,  Long.  8i°.  30'  E.,  Distance  152  miles. 

Monday,  March  27th.  Madras  to  Colombo. — All  this 
beautiful  day  we  have  been  running  along  the  Ceylon 


224  Aloha  Around  the  World 

coastline,  sometimes  close  enough  to  see  the  white  line 
of  breakers  fringing  the  yellow  beaches,  and  always  with 
rows  of  serrated  mountain  ranges  one  behind  the  other, 
blue  and  hazy  in  the  distance.  The  breeze  is  disap- 
pointingly light,  however,  and  though  after  lunch  the 
fore  and  aft  sails  were  set  they  did  not  add  much  to  our 
speed.  We  are  now  leaving  the  Bay  of  Bengal  whose 
entire  circumference  we  have  followed  and  in  whose 
waters  Aloha  has  been  "laying  her  beautiful  body"  as 
the  Japanese  papers  would  say,  for  over  five  weeks  since 
we  left  Penang  on  February  20th. 

Lat.  7°.24'  N.,  Long.  8i°.57'  E.,  Distance  207  miles 


CHAPTER  XI 

CEYLON,   EARTH'S  JEWEL  BOX 

Tuesday,  March  28th.     Colombo. — After  hugging  the 

southern  extremity  of  Ceylon  during  the  night  we 

turned  northward  and  still  running  close  to  the  shore 

made  a  very  good  run  so  that  at  one  o'clock  we  dropped 

anchor  in  the  basin  off  the  city  of  Colombo.    From  a 

distance  it  made  a  very  favorable  impression  and  when 

we  went  ashore  for  a  preliminary  investigation  this  was 

more  than  confirmed.     Clean,  wide  streets  and  well 

constructed  modern   buildings  and   attractive   shops 

made  the  city  seem  very  inviting,  and  later  when  we  all 

went  for  a  long  drive  we  realized  that  we  were  going  to 

find  Ceylon  one  of  the  most  attractive  places  we  have 

visited.     The  road  paralleled  the  shore  and  ran  past 

pretty  villas  set  in  palm-shaded  gardens  gay  with 

flowers,  and  all  along  were  crowds  of  contented  looking 

people  that  made  one  think  of  Java.    Many  of  them, 

both  men  and  women  wore  the  camboy  as  the  sarong  is 

called  here,  and  all  the  people  seemed  more  animated, 

cleaner,  better  nourished  and  less  melancholy  than  the 

sullen  and  apathetic  Hindus,  though  the  men  with  their 

long  hair  done  up  in  a  bun  behind  and  wearing  more  or 

less  elaborate  tortoise  shell  combs  had  a  rather  bizarre 
is  225 


226  Aloha  Around  the  World 

appearance  that  it  was  not  altogether  easy  to  become 
used  to.  Rickshaws  abounded  again  and  in  place  of  the 
ramshackle  Hindu  "ekka"  with  its  decrepit  horse  there 
were  quantities  of  smart  looking  carriages  called  bug- 
gies, drawn  by  speedy  little  bullocks.  The  return  to  the 
city  by  way  of  Victoria  Park  and  the  Cinnamon  Gardens 
delighted  us  with  the  coolness  of  the  breezy  evening  air 
and  with  the  fresh  green  of  the  abundant  verdure  that 
was  a  grateful  relief  from  the  dusty  sun-parched  fields 
of  the  mainland.  Mr.  Veich,  the  American  Vice-Consul, 
dined  with  us  to  the  sound  of  the  music  from  the  band 
of  the  British  cruiser  Southampton  at  anchor  a  short 
distance  away. 

Distance  at  noon  235  miles,  to  Colombo  12  miles. 
Total  distance  from  Madras  606  miles. 

Wednesday }  March  2Qth.  Colombo. — A  day  of  idling 
in  Colombo  has  made  us  realize  that  our  first  impres- 
sions of  this  pleasant  city  were  more  than  justified  and 
we  are  delighted  with  it  and  with  its  good  natured  popu- 
lation who  all  seem  to  speak  English.  Ceylon  is  one  of 
the  world's  greatest  sources  of  precious  and  semi-pre- 
cious stones  and  one  cannot  walk  ten  steps  in  any  direc- 
tion without  being  invited  to  enter  some  shop  and 
"Please  see  big  star  sapphire,  no  need  to  buy,  only 
look."  In  one  of  the  largest  establishments  we  were 
shown  the  really  magnificent  collection  of  gems  prepared 
for  exhibition  to  the  Prince  of  Wales  who  left  Colombo 
only  a  day  or  two  before  our  arrival.  Late  in  the  after- 
noon we  drove  out  to  Mt.  Lavinia,  seven  miles  down  the 
coast,  where  there  is  a  pleasant  hotel  on  the  headland 


g  s 

*3  S 


^  — 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         227 

that  looks  down  on  a  pretty  beach  edged  with  coconut 
palms.  The  picturesque  fishing  canoes  or  catamarans 
were  coming  in,  very  narrow  dugouts  with  outriggers 
and  square  brown  sails  spread  by  sprits  going  diagon- 
ally to  the  upper  corners,  and  the  whole  fabric  held 
together  with  lashings  of  coir  rope  made  from  coconut 
fiber,  no  metal  being  used  in  their  construction.  On  the 
way  back  while  Harriet  went  to  the  Y.  W.  C.  A.  the 
rest  of  us  visited  the  exposition  of  Singhalese  industries, 
also  organized  for  the  Prince's  benefit,  where  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  native  arts  and  crafts  were  on  view  in 
pavilions  of  bamboo  and  thatch,  but  none  of  the  ex- 
hibits seemed  of  unusual  interest.  Harriet,  Fluff,  Peter, 
and  I  dined  with  Mr.  Veich  and  the  Consul  and  Mrs. 
Vance  in  their  attractive  house  some  distance  out  of 
town,  and  our  entertainment  and  surroundings  made  us 
realize  how  agreeable  life  may  be  here  in  Colombo. 

Thursday,  March  joth.  Kandy. — The  run  of  seventy- 
two  miles  to  Kandy  was  a  fresh  revelation  of  the  charms 
of  Ceylon  and  we  were  constantly  reminded  of  the  de- 
lightful trips  we  had  made  in  Java.  The  roads  were 
excellent  and  seemed  almost  as  populous  as  those  of  the 
Dutch  island,  but  there  was  not  so  much  color  in  the 
costumes  of  the  people  though  these  seemed  just  as  good 
natured  and  cheerful  as  the  amiable  Javanese.  The 
ascent  did  not  begin  till  some  time  after  we  had  re- 
freshed ourselves  with  pineapples  and  ginger  ale  in  the 
prettily  placed  little  rest  house  at  Ambepussa  about 
half  way  to  Kandy,  but  during  the  latter  portion  of  the 
journey  we  began  to  see  mountain  ranges  and  the  road 


228  Aloha  Around  the  World 

mounted  in  long  loops  through  beautifully  variegated 
tropical  scenery,  till  at  two  o'clock  we  arrived  in  Kandy 
at  an  elevation  of  sixteen  hundred  feet.    This  is  now 
only  a  charming  little  city  of  thirty  thousand  inhabit- 
ants, but  in  the  sixteenth  century  it  was  the  capital  of 
the  island.    In  the  center  of  the  town  is  a  pretty  arti- 
ficial lake  and  after  lunch  we  visited  the  famous  Temple 
of  the  Tooth  which  is  close  to  its  shores.    The  famous 
relic,  Buddha's  tooth,  for  which  it  is  named  is  visible 
only  on  rare  occasions  for  which  pilgrims  assemble  from 
all  the  lands  where  Buddha  is  revered,  but  we  saw  the 
shrine,  the  sacred  Bo  Tree,  a  reclining  Buddha  eighteen 
feet  long  of  gaudily  painted  granite,  and  the  fine  library 
of  ancient  books  or  "olas"  written  on  strips  of  talipot 
palm  leaves  and  enclosed  in  richly  ornamented  covers 
of  silver,  often  gem-encrusted.    Three  miles  away  is  the 
little  village  of  Katugastota  and  here  we  watched  a 
dozen  or  more  of  the  elephants  that  are  used  in  doing 
the  heavy  hauling  hereabouts  getting  their  bath  in  the 
river.    The  great  creatures,  as  docile  as  kittens,  rolled 
about  in  the  water  while  their  mahouts   scrubbed 
them  diligently  from  trunk  to  tail  with  coconut  husks, 
in  some  cases  even  brushing  their  teeth.    It  was  a  most 
diverting  spectacle  and  the  nearest  thing  possible  to 
seeing  the  animals  in  the  wild  state.   Then  we  went  back 
to  Kandy,  driving  around  the  lake  which  was  most 
beautiful  with  the  late  afternoon  light  falling  on  the 
green  hills  that  surround  the  city,  and  then  on  to  the 
Peradeniya  Gardens  celebrated  as  one  of  the  finest 
botanical  collections  in  the  world.    Though  not  quite 


■ 


Kandy 

The  lovely  lake  that  is  one  of  the  town's  most  attractive  features,  with  the  little  island  to 
which  the  last  King  of  Kandy  is  said  to  have  banished  his  refractory  wives. 


■f        JT       ;<r» 


Katugastota 

Here  the  many  elephants  that  work  in  the  neighborhood  are  brought  each  afternoon  to  have 

their  daily  scrub. 


Ceylon,  Earths  Jewel  Box         229 

as  extensive  as  the  one  at  Buitenzorg  or  on  so  large  a 
scale  it  has  some  magnificent  avenues  of  palms  and  is 
more  attractively  laid  out  than  the  latter.  Harriet  and 
William,  our  experts  in  such  matters,  who  were  conducted 
through  it  by  the  director,  Mr.  Stockdale  were  greatly 
interested,  and  he  very  kindly  arranged  to  send  to  the 
yacht  for  Dr.  David  Fairchild  of  the  U.  S.  Department 
of  Agriculture,  a  Wardian  case  containing  specimens  of 
various  indigenous  plants,  including  some  mangosteens. 
Friday,  March  31st.  Polonnaruwa. — By  eight-thirty 
we  were  off  for  the  long  journey  northward  to  Polon- 
naruwa, passing  first  through  Katugastota  and  later 
through  the  thriving  town  of  Matale  twenty-two  miles 
from  Kandy,  with  a  long  and  busy  bazaar.  The  ride 
was  very  beautiful  and  interesting  past  groups  of  mud- 
walled,  thatched-roofed  houses  half  hidden  in  the  green 
foliage,  rice  fields  terraced  on  the  slopes,  cocoa  and  rub- 
ber plantations,  and  occasional  tea  gardens.  Later, 
mountain  peaks  came  into  view  and  at  Dambulla  forty- 
five  miles  from  Kandy  we  stopped  to  see  the  famous 
rock  temples  in  a  crevice  of  a  high  black  cliff.  It  was  a 
scorching  ascent  over  the  bare  slopes  but  soon  we  came 
to  a  shady  path  and  reached  the  horizontal  cleft  in 
which  the  shrines  are  built — much  like  some  of  the  cliff 
dwellings  in  Arizona.  Boyish  priests  in  the  invariable 
yellow  robes  brought  the  big,  elaborately  wrought,  brass 
keys  that  opened  the  portals,  and  by  the  light  of  tapers 
one  could  dimly  see  the  great  seated  and  reclining  Bud- 
dhas  carved  from  the  living  rock  two  thousand  years  ago, 
one  of  the  latter  forty-eight  feet  in  length.    It  was  quite 


230  Aloha  Around  the  World 

impressive  though  the  effect  was  cheapened  by  the 
tawdry  modern  hangings  and  by  the  lurid  red  and  yel- 
low recent  painting  of  the  figures,  but  the  view  from  the 
terrace  in  front  of  the  temple  across  the  jungle  to  the 
distant  mountains  was  very  fine.  Nearby  was  the  rest- 
house  and  we  stopped  there  for  lunch  and  shelter  from 
the  noon-day  heat.  The  night  before  a  wild  elephant 
had  invaded  the  garden  and  the  rest-house  keeper  shot 
and  badly  wounded  it.  In  the  jungle  a  short  distance 
away  were  footprints  and  marks  in  the  ground  and  in  the 
broken  undergrowth,  showing  where  the  animal  had 
fallen  and  struggled  several  times  before  succeeding  in 
making  off,  but  the  trackers  sent  to  follow  it  in  its  flight 
had  not  yet  returned.  At  four  we  started  again  and 
had  a  most  wonderful  ride  through  mile  after  mile  of 
densest  jungle  without  a  single  habitation,  only  the 
splendid  road  giving  any  evidence  of  human  activi- 
ties, while  the  monkeys  skipped  about  in  the  trees 
with  a  blase  indifference  that  showed  they  were  little 
used  to  any  interference.  A  short  distance  from  our 
destination  we  left  the  main  road  to  see  the  Minneriya 
tank,  a  fine  artificial  lake  thirty  miles  in  circumference 
constructed  by  King  Maha  Sena  who  reigned  in  the 
third  century  B.C.  A  little  after  six  we  had  covered 
the  forty-five  miles  to  the  rest-house  at  Polonnaruwa, 
and  found  it  a  very  comfortable  place  prettily  situated 
overlooking  the  tank  Tapa  Wewa,  surrounded  by  the 
jungle  and  with  range  on  range  of  mountains  in  the 
distance.  As  the  sunset  faded  across  the  lake  and  the 
stars  came  out  swarms  of  fireflies  covered  the  nearby 


POLONNARUWA 

The  Wata-da-ge,  which  is  considered  by  some  authorities  the  finest  of  the  ancient  buildings 

in  Ceylon. 


POLONNARUWA 

In  the  Middle  Ages  this  was  the  site  of  a  magnificent  city,  but  now  only  a  few  ruins  in  the 
heart  of  the  jungle  testify  to  its  former  greatness. 


Ceylon,  Earths  Jewel  Box         231 

trees  and  turned  them  into  masses  of  flashing  phos- 
phorescence. 

Saturday,  April  ist.  Polonnaruwa. — Yesterday  had 
been  so  hot  that  we  decided  to  make  an  early  start  to 
see  the  ruins  here,  so  we  had  our  chota  hazri  at  six  and 
were  off  to  the  site  of  the  ancient  city  while  the  morning 
was  still  cool  and  gray.  Polonnaruwa  became  a  royal 
residence  in  386  a.d.  at  which  time  the  tank  was  con- 
structed, and  some  centuries  later  was  made  the  capital 
of  Ceylon  but  did  not  reach  its  full  glory  till  the  reign 
of  Parakrama  Bahu  (1153  to  1186)  who  made  of  it  a 
magnificent  city.  It  was  later  laid  waste  by  the  invad- 
ing Tamils  and  was  finally  deserted  toward  the  end  of 
the  thirteenth  century .  The  ruins  are  scattered  through 
the  jungle  but  though  of  much  later  date  than  those  at 
Anuradhapura,  are  in  a  better  state  of  preservation  and 
for  that  reason  more  satisfactory  to  visit.  The  most 
interesting  is  the  Wata-da-ge  or  Treasure  House,  which 
some  authorities  consider  the  most  beautiful  ancient 
building  in  Ceylon.  This  is  a  circular  structure  about 
sixty  feet  in  diameter  on  a  raised  platform  approached 
by  four  stairways  each  with  a  finely  carved  "moon- 
stone" at  its  foot  and  leading  up  to  four  sedent  Buddhas 
facing  the  points  of  the  compass.  Enough  of  the  build- 
ing remains  to  show  its  original  design  and  the  splendid 
sculptures.  Nearby  is  the  large  Thuparama,  a  temple 
with  enormously  thick  walls,  also  well  preserved,  while 
all  about  are  the  remains  of  numerous  other  buildings, 
all  placed  on  an  elevated  terrace  which  must  have  given 
the  whole  group  an  imposing  and  acropolis-like  setting. 


232  Aloha  Around  the  World 

A  short  distance  away  lies  another  collection  of  impres- 
sive ruins;  a  huge  dagoba  two  hundred  feet  in  height 
and  one  hundred  feet  in  diameter,  a  temple  one  hundred 
and  seventy  feet  long  and  seventy  feet  high  with  a 
gigantic  standing  Buddha,  and  the  remains  of  other 
smaller  buildings.  A  foot  path  through  the  jungle  led 
to  the  most  striking  monument  of  all,  however,  called 
the  Gal  Vihara.  Carved  from  a  great  ledge  of  black 
rock  and  flanking  a  small  shrine  hollowed  out  of  the 
cliff  are  three  figures  of  heroic  size,  one  a  seated  Buddha, 
another  a  reclining  Buddha,  forty-five  feet  long,  and  the 
third  a  finely  executed  standing  figure  said  to  represent 
Ananda,  Gautama's  cousin  and  chief  disciple.  These 
great  figures  cut  from  the  living  rock  and  surrounded  by 
the  dense  jungle  are  wonderfully  dignified  and  sug- 
gestive. 

After  lunch  we  returned  along  the  jungle  road  by 
which  we  had  come,  till  at  five  miles  from  Dambulla  a 
side  road  led  five  miles  further  to  the  tiny  village  of 
Sigiriya  beside  a  little  tank  from  whose  further  shore 
rose  straight  and  sheer  the  mighty  mass  of  rock  which 
gives  the  place  its  name.  The  rest-house  here  was  the 
most  attractive  we  have  found  yet  though  all  have  been 
clean  and  well  kept  with  comfortable  rooms,  good  meals 
and  very  attentive  service.  Fluff  and  I  made  a  prelim- 
inary reconnaissance  of  the  village  and  climbed  up  to 
the  platform  at  the  base  of  the  rock  from  which  there 
was  a  fine  sunset  view. 

Sunday,  April  2nd.  Kandy. — We  were  up  at  six 
again  to  climb  the  rock.    This  extraordinary  fortress, 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         233 

one  of  the  most  remarkable  ever  constructed,  was  built 
in  the  fifth  century  by  King  Kasyapa  who  had  murdered 
his  father  Dhatu  Sena  and  felt  the  need  of  a  refuge  to 
secure  himself  from  the  vengeance  of  his  brother  Mogal- 
lana.  After  reigning  here  in  safety  and  splendor  for 
eighteen  years  he  unwisely  forsook  his  airy  retreat  and 
with  his  army  encountered  that  of  Mogallana  on  the 
plains  below,  but  was  defeated  and  committed  suicide. 
Enough  is  left  of  the  ancient  structure  to  enable  one  to 
visualize  its  former  grandeur  and  to  cause  astonishment 
at  the  remarkable  ingenuity  of  the  early  engineers  who 
carved  their  stairways  and  galleries  out  of  the  sheer 
face  of  the  rock  and  transported  to  its  summit  the 
massive  blocks  of  granite  of  which  the  buildings  that 
crowned  it  were  constructed.  On  all  sides  the  rock  rises 
vertically  over  four  hundred  feet  from  the  level  of  its 
base,  but  the  ascent  has  been  made  fairly  easy  by  the 
restoration  of  some  of  the  original  steps  and  by  iron 
ladders  clamped  to  the  rock.  At  one  turn  one  enters 
the  last  stages  of  the  ascent  between  the  paws  of  the 
great  masonry  effigy  of  a  lion  which  gave  its  name  to  the 
citadel,  Siha-giri  meaning  ' '  lion  rock. ' '  This  part  of  the 
climb  had  to  be  done  in  complete  silence  to  avoid  rous- 
ing the  swarms  of  wild  bees  that  cluster  in  the  crevices, 
as  any  noise  or  disturbance  is  said  to  cause  them  to 
attack  the  unwary  intruder.  On  the  top,  two  or  three 
acres  in  area,  were  the  ruins  of  the  palace  and  other 
buildings,  water-tanks  and  lookout  posts,  mere  indica- 
tions of  what  they  once  had  been  but  sufficient  to  sug- 
gest their  former  arrangement  and  size,  while  the  view 


234  Aloha  Around  the  World 

of  the  trackless  jungle  extending  endlessly  in  all  direc- 
tions till  it  met  the  far  away  mountains  was  superb. 
Little  wonder  the  ruthless  king  felt  comfortable  and 
secure  in  this  impregnable  retreat  that  makes  the 
strongholds  of  the  feudal  lords  of  medieval  Europe 
appear  like  children's  toys. 

At  nine  we  were  under  way  for  Kandy  and  reached 
there  at  eleven-thirty.  After  lunch  the  others  went  on 
to  Nuwara  Elyia  (pronounced  Nuraylia)  but  Joe  and 
Corinna  and  I  remained  behind  in  the  comfortable 
Queen's  Hotel.  Here  we  saw  a  juggler  do  some  new 
tricks,  among  others  fire  eating  and  an  extraordinary 
feat  I  had  heard  of  but  never  seen  performed ;  lifting  a 
basket  containing  a  python  that  must  have  weighed 
thirty  pounds  by  two  cords  attached  to  metal  cups  that 
he  had  applied  to  his  eyeballs,  pushing  them  under  the 
upper  and  lower  lids — a  most  uncanny  sight.  Then  Joe 
and  I  indulged  ourselves  in  another  long  visit  to  the 
elephants  at  Katugastota,  becoming  very  intimate  with 
the  mahouts  and  their  friendly  charges,  with  whom  they 
conversed  in  a  special  elephant  language  quite  different 
from  the  ordinary  Singhalese.  One  big,  old  bull  was 
marvelously  accomplished  and  would  carry  out  endless 
maneuvers  in  response  to  the  quietly  spoken  directions 
of  his  mahout  who  stood  some  distance  away  and  did 
not  touch  him  or  even  make  a  gesture.  We  finished  the 
afternoon  with  a  drive  around  the  upper  lake  road  look- 
ing down  on  the  little  town  with  its  sparkling  lake  set 
in  the  green  cup  of  the  hills,  and  with  another  visit  to 
the  Maligawa  temple. 


< 

o 


MS 


o  '*- 
■S-3 

C    «« 

o  .- 
y 

*.   >> 

8  « 
*  "I 
o  a. 

el 


■a 

8 

s 

>> 

•a 

>> 

Q 

a) 

g 

1/3 

<: 

B 

« 

C 

>. 

o 

s 

H 

O 

Q 

bo 
g 

•< 

r 

O 

7t 

rt 

« 

:= 

w 

S 

o 

X 

ca 

H 

o 

fc 

jg 

o 

s 

Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         235 

Monday,  April  3rd.  Colombo. — Joe  and  I  spent  a 
delightful  morning  rummaging  about  the  curio  shops 
many  of  which  contained  really  fine  specimens  of  anti- 
quities, and  established  a  reputation  for  hard  bargain- 
ing that  preceded  us  all  about  the  town.  One  dealer 
took  us  to  his  house  to  view  his  private  collection  of 
ancient  weapons,  brass,  ivories,  etc.,  which  contained 
some  fine  pieces,  and  we  also  visited  the  museum  which 
is  well  worth  while  and  is  conducted  as  a  training  school 
to  encourage  the  continuation  of  the  ancient  arts  and 
crafts.  The  road  to  Colombo  was  even  more  beautiful 
in  the  afternoon  lights  than  it  had  been  in  the  morning 
and  we  arrived  on  board  shortly  after  five.  In  the  even- 
ing a  boxing  contest  was  held  in  the  Town  Hall  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Captain  of  the  Southampton,  and 
together  with  a  delegation  of  the  crew  we  attended  in 
order  to  cheer  on  Harry  Fairweather,  one  of  our  men, 
who  was  scheduled  to  meet  one  of  the  Southampton's 
crew  for  a  silver  cup.  The  bout  was  to  be  of  three 
rounds,  but  our  man  had  all  the  best  of  it  and  in  the 
middle  of  the  second  round  his  opponent  allowed  he'd 
had  enough  and  quit.  There  were  eight  or  nine  other 
bouts,  nearly  all  well  contested  and  the  exhibition  was 
splendidly  managed,  with  the  Southampton's  Chaplain 
as  timekeeper. 

Tuesday,  April  4th.  Colombo. — We  spent  the  morn- 
ing ashore  doing  much  bargaining  and  little  buying  in 
the  jewel-stored  caves  of  Ali  Baba  that  line  Colombo's 
streets,  where  the  twenty  or  thirty  varieties  of  gems 
occurring  in  Ceylon  are  to  be  found  in  quantities  that 


236  Aloha  Around  the  World 

stagger  the  imagination.  Sapphires,  star  sapphires, 
moonstones,  rubies,  cat's-eyes,  aquamarines,  garnets, 
spinels,  topazes,  zircons,  and  many  others  are  brought 
out  in  glittering  handfuls  of  all  degrees  of  size  and  fine- 
ness, and  she  must  be  strongminded,  indeed,  who  can 
resist  the  lure  of  these  bits  of  shiny  stone.  In  the  after- 
noon Joe  and  I  visited  the  museum  and  found  it  a 
delightfully  interesting  place  with  fine  collections  of 
Singhalese  jewelry,  weapons,  implements,  and  antiquities , 
Polonnaruwa  and  Sigiriya  being  especially  well  repre- 
sented. Later  we  sat  for  a  time  looking  at  the  sea  and 
the  breaking  surf  from  the  veranda  of  the  Galle  Face 
Hotel,  and  going  back  to  the  yacht  found  that  the  others 
had  finished  the  one  hundred  and  thirty  mile  journey 
from  Nuwara  Elyia  at  about  four -thirty,  stopping  for 
lunch  at  Yatiyantota.  Nuwara  Elyia  was  a  delightful 
spot  at  an  altitude  of  seven  thousand  feet  where  open 
fires  were  a  comfort  and  the  vegetation  was  that  of  the 
temperate  zone.  It  lies  in  the  center  of  the  tea -growing 
district  and  for  over  a  hundred  miles  in  approaching  it 
and  leaving  it  the  road  passed  through  continuous  tea 
gardens.  It  is  the  favorite  resort  of  the  Europeans  in 
Ceylon  and  has  a  race  track,  polo  ground,  and  a  golf 
course  on  which  Peter  and  William  played  a  round  and 
then  decided  that  the  claim  that  it  is  the  finest  in  the 
East  is  not  unjustified.  Harriet  and  William  also  found 
the  Hakgala  Botanical  Gardens  interesting  though  not 
so  extensive  as  the  Peradenyia  Gardens  at  Kandy. 
The  mountain  scenery  in  the  neighborhood  was  very 
fine  and  the  descent  down  the  winding  road  back  to 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         237 

Colombo  with  countless  sharp  and  often  unguarded 
turns  was  not  free  from  danger.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Vance 
were  prevented  by  illness  from  coming  to  dine  as  had 
been  arranged  and  Mr.  Veich  alone  appeared  to  repre- 
sent the  consular  household. 

Wednesday,  April  $th.  Colombo  to  Aden. — This  has 
been  a  day  of  farewells,  for  Joe  and  Corinna  who  have 
been  our  companions  through  Java  and  India,  separated 
from  us  to  go  to  Marseilles  by  steamer  as  they  are 
anxious  to  rejoin  their  children  in  France  as  soon  as 
possible,  Sherkhan  to  whom  we  have  all  become  greatly 
attached,  started  on.the  long  journey  back  to  his  home 
in  Ahmednagar,  and  we  all  had  to  look  our  last  on  the 
Far  East,  with  its  strange  fascinations  that  make  one 
forget  all  discomforts  and  leave  it  behind  with  a  haunt- 
ing sense  of  regret  that  is  hard  to  describe.  After  going 
in  the  launch  as  far  as  the  breakwater  to  wave  a  parting 
greeting  to  the  Smiths  in  the  Yorkshire,  we  returned  to 
the  city  and  spent  the  morning  and  much  of  the  after- 
noon on  various  affairs,  especially  in  looking  again  at 
the  stores  of  precious  stones  offered  so  temptingly  by 
dealers  large  and  small  on  every  street  and  turning. 
Mr.  Veich  and  Mr.  Seidle,  the  gem  expert,  lunched  on 
board,  the  latter  bringing  with  him  some  fine  examples 
of  sapphires,  which  are  especially  cheap  at  present  as 
there  has  been  a  great  slump  in  the  gem  market. 
Shortly  after  five  we  passed  through  the  breakwater  and 
Aloha's  figurehead  was  once  more  directed  toward  the 
sunset,  into  which  we  sailed  for  so  many  evenings  on  the 
Pacific  and  which  will  lie  ahead  of  us  at  the  close  of  each 


238  Aloha  Around  the  World 

day  during  the  long  run  of  over  two  thousand  miles  to 
Aden. 

Thursday,  April  6th.  Colombo  to  Aden. — At  noon  to- 
day the  sun  was  almost  directly  overhead  for  the  lati- 
tude and  declination  were  nearly  equal  and  in  taking 
the  sights  the  sun  touched  the  horizon  practically  all 
around  its  circumference.  At  midday  we  had  our  last 
glimpse  of  India  as  Cape  Comorin  faded  from  view 
and  we  passed  from  the  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Manar 
between  Ceylon  and  the  mainland  into  the  open  Indian 
Ocean.  At  times  there  was  a  light  southwest  breeze 
that  barely  filled  the  fore  and  aft  sails  but  kept  it  com- 
fortably cool  on  deck.  Below  it  seemed  pretty  hot, 
however,  for  the  air  was  ninety-two  degrees  at  two 
o'clock,  and  with  the  ship's  hull  immersed  in  water  at 
eighty-eight  degrees  there  is  little  chance  for  the  air 
in  its  interior  to  cool. 

Lat.  7°.05'  N.,  Long.  77°.n'  E.     Distance  170  miles. 

Friday,  April  ph.  Colombo  to  Aden. — Another  day 
of  smooth  sea  and  even  less  air  stirring  than  yesterday. 
At  sunset  we  ran  into  a  dead  calm  with  a  misty  sky  that 
during  the  evening  dulled  the  brilliancy  of  the  moon 
which  is  now  half  full.  The  Colombo  coal  is  of  good 
quality  and  we  have  been  averaging  nine  knots  all  day. 

Lat.  8°.54'  N.,  Long.  73°.2c/  E.     Distance  231  miles. 

Saturday,  April  8th.  Colombo  to  Aden. — Although 
through  the  wireless  we  know  that  there  are  ten  or  a 
dozen  ships  not  far  away  the  only  one  we  have  seen  is  a 
tramp  early  this  morning.  Long,  smooth,  swells  have 
been  coming  up  from  the  south  but  there  is  no  wind  and 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         239 

the  weather  continues  fine.  During  the  afternoon  and 
evening  it  became  much  cooler  and  the  moon  shone 
down  from  a  cloudless  sky. 

Lat.  9°44'  N.,  Long.  69°45'  E.     Distance  225  miles. 

Sunday y  April  gth.  Colombo  to  Aden. — The  Half 
Moon,  a  tramp  freighter  that  left  Colombo  some  hours 
after  we  did  came  in  sight  early  this  morning  and  re- 
mained on  the  horizon  till  after  lunch,  when  she  slowly 
left  us  behind  as  she  was  making  about  a  knot  more 
than  we  were.  Our  only  other  neighbor  was  a  sailing 
vessel,  probably  an  Arab  trading  boat  that  for  about  an 
hour  was  visible  as  a  white  speck  to  the  northward. 
It  has  been  another  perfect  steaming  day  with  the  same 
fine,  big  rollers  as  yesterday  coming  up  in  the  afternoon, 
and  so  much  cooler  that  it  has  been  very  comfortable 
both  above  and  below  and  it  was  possible  to  have  ser- 
vice in  the  saloon  again. 

Lat.  io°42'  N.,  Long.  660.I6,  E.     Distance 213  miles. 

Monday,  A  pril  10th .  Colombo  to  A  den . — All  morning 
the  sea  was  as  polished  and  deeply  azure  as  one  of 
Colombo's  darkest  sapphires.  Jelly-fish  and  Portuguese 
men-of-war  floated  by  and  several  schools  of  enormous 
porpoises  played  about  the  ship,  but  as  soon  as  the 
harpoon  had  been  gotten  ready  for  their  benefit  they 
disappeared  as  if  by  magic.  In  the  afternoon  a  little 
ripple  stirred  the  water  and  the  usual  long,  slow  swells 
came  up,  but  the  breeze  was  barely  enough  to  fill  the 
fore  and  aft  sails.  A  wireless  message  from  the  S.  S. 
Bhamo,  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  to  the  south,  in- 
formed us  that  she  had  stopped  to  supply  water  to  a 


240  Aloha  Around  the  World 

sailing  ship  that  was  twenty-six  days  out  from  port. 

Lat.  1 1°44'  N.,  Long.  63°.02/  E.     Distance  238  miles. 

Tuesday,  April  nth.  Colombo  to  Aden. — There  was 
a  little  promise  of  a  breeze  this  morning  and  for  the 
first  time  in  many  weeks  the  square  sails  were  set,  but 
after  an  hour  or  two  it  was  evident  that  they  were  use- 
less and  they  were  furled  again.  The  evening  was  one 
of  unusual  beauty  and  afforded  another  illustration  of 
the  infinite  variety  of  conditions  at  sea.  The  sun  set 
without  a  cloud  in  the  sky  so  that  its  departure  was  not 
especially  striking,  but  soon  a  wonderful  afterglow  of 
saffron  and  orange  filled  the  western  heavens  and  threw 
a  sheen  of  variegated  color  on  the  oily  sea  that  made  it 
glow  with  all  the  luster  of  an  opal.  Then  the  rising 
moon  added  a  silvery  radiance  to  the  colors  of  the  fading 
west  reflected  in  the  ocean,  and  made  prismatic  combina- 
tions unlike  anything  we  had  seen  before,  while  hosts 
of  flying  fish  kept  darting  in  long  flights  over  the  mirror- 
like surface.  During  the  evening  a  filmy  haze  of  fog 
filled  the  horizon,  but  did  not  dim  the  brightness  of  the 
full  moon  which  made  us  think  of  the  last  time  we  had 
seen  it  at  Agra  in  the  gardens  of  the  Taj — just  a 
month  ago. 

Lat.  I2°44/  N.,  Long.  58°.34'  E.     Distance  224  miles. 

Wednesday,  April  12th.  Colombo  to  Aden. — The 
mountainous  island  of  Socotra  has  been  in  sight  most  of 
the  day,  as  we  have  been  running  past  its  length  of 
seventy  miles.  Although  so  close  to  the  track  of  all  the 
ships  passing  along  this  busy  highway  of  the  sea,  it  is 
seldom  visited  by  Europeans  and  its  twelve  thousand 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         241 

inhabitants,  mostly  of  Arab  blood,  still  live  in  a  manner 
little  influenced  by  western  civilization.  This  morning 
we  saw  a  singular  sight;  a  school  of  hundreds  of  por- 
poises crossed  our  bow  at  a  distance  of  a  mile  or  two  and 
were  so  numerous  and  densely  packed  that  it  seemed 
like  a  tidal  wave  sweeping  across  the  ocean.  Fluff 
created  a  diversion  at  tea-time  by  saying  that  she  had 
found  in  her  scrap-book  a  sea  song  that  was  so  fine  and 
inspiring  that  she  wanted  to  read  it  to  us.  It  was  no 
doubt  a  very  fine  song,  but  as  soon  as  the  first  line  was 
heard  "Give  me  a  freshening  breeze  ahead' '  such  a 
howl  went  up  from  everyone  that  the  rest  of  the  poem 
had  to  remain  unread.  It  was  a  poor  start  for  a  poem 
intended  to  appeal  to  this  ship's  company  who  have 
faced  relentless  headwinds  for  so  many  weeks.  A  little 
later  the  following  choice  ditty  was  produced : 

A  Song  of  the  Sea 
By  a  Horse  Marine. 

What  ho !    For  a  fair  head  wind 

That  backs  the  slatting  sail, 
And  drives  the  gallant  ship  sternfirst 

Against  the  whistling  gale. 

What  ho !    For  the  stinging  spray 

That  drifts  to  windward  fast, 
All  slack  the  snowy  head-sails  strain 

Abaft  the  mizzen  mast. 

What  ho !    For  the  life  at  sea, 

In  the  sunrise  reddened  West 

The  Southern  Cross  hangs  high  above 

The  crow  perched  in  his  nest 
16 


242  Aloha  Around  the  World 

What  ho !     For  the  noiseless  waves 

That  lash  the  tasteless  brine, 
As  the  stun's'ls  lift  the  spanker-boom 

In  latitude  99 ! 

That  now,  has  the  real  spirit  of  the  sea  in$  it. 

Lat.  I3°.I2'  N.,  Long.  54°.35'  E.    Distance  230  miles. 

Thursday,  April  13th.  Colombo  to  Aden. — It  con- 
tinues to  be  perfect  steaming  weather  and  we  have 
made  a  splendid  run  so  that  we  shall  probably  reach 
Aden  a  day  earlier  than  we  expected  when  we  started. 
We  have  lost  the  long  Indian  Ocean  rollers  for  we  are 
in  the  Gulf  of  Aden  with  Arabia  to  the  north  of  us  and 
Somaliland  to  the  south.  Most  of  the  square  sails  have 
been  set  all  day  but  with  little  effect  for  we  are  traveling 
just  as  fast  as  what  little  wind  there  is  and  often  the 
smoke  rises  vertically  from  the  funnel.  There  is  a  great 
deal  of  moisture  in  the  air  and  tonight  the  decks  are 
absolutely  drenched  with  dew. 

Lat.  I3°.03/  N.,  Long.  50°.25'  E.    Distance  244  miles. 

Friday,  April  14th.  Aden. — Another  splendid  run 
and  at  seven-fifteen  we  had  covered  the  seventy-one 
miles  from  the  noon  position  to  Aden  and  had  reached 
the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  though  it  was  about  nine 
o'clock  before  we  had  threaded  the  narrow  channel  and 
were  settled  in  our  berth.  Aden  has  been  a  good  deal 
of  a  surprise  for  we  had  pictured  it  as  a  small  settlement 
on  a  flat  and  sandy  plain,  instead  of  which  the  town  is 
on  a  hilly  promontory  connected  with  the  mainland  by 
a  narrow  isthmus,  and  its  rugged  skyline  with  the  sun 
setting  behind  it  made  a  very  striking  picture  as  we 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         243 

approached.  The  average  annual  rainfall  is  less  than  an 
inch,  but  the  pilot  told  us  that  about  two  weeks  ago  in  a 
single  storm  nine  inches  of  rain  fell.  Nothing  like  this 
has  happened  in  over  thirty  years,  and  the  ancient  tanks 
in  the  hills  are  full  for  the  first  time  in  the  memory  of 
man. 

As  shown  by  the  daily  runs,  we  have  been  making  a 
very  good  steaming  record  which  Jake  has  tabulated  as 
follows : 

A  comparison  and  study  of  steaming  records  obtained 
from  the  experience  of  the  present  voyage. 

Under  One  Boiler 

Panama  to  Hilo  4884  miles,  28  days  at  sea,  under  steam 
352  hours,  2690  miles. 

Average  per  hour 7.36  knots 

Coal  used no       tons 

Distance  per  ton  of  coal 23.7    knots 

Under  Two  Boilers,  full  speed 

Colombo  to  Aden  2097  miles,  9  days,  all  under  steam. 

Average  per  hour 9.4    knots 

Coal  used 85       tons 

Distance  per  ton  of  coal 23.53  knots 

With  one  boiler  one  ton  carries  the  ship  eight  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  further  than  with  two  boilers,  but  to  do 
this,  one  boiler  requires  3.2  hours,  while  two  boilers 
accomplish  it  in  2.4  hours — so : 

Under  one  boiler,  150  tons  of  coal  would  run  us  3555 
miles  in  453  hours — and, 

Under  two  boilers  150  tons  of  coal  would  run  us  3529 
miles  in  375  hours. 


244  Aloha  Around  the  World 

Both  these  comparisons  are  predicated  on  calm 
weather,  or  light  head  wind,  and  seem  to  prove  that  two 
boilers  are  the  more  economical  if  a  straight  away  run 
of  several  days  is  expected,  but  if  at  sea  the  main  en- 
gines are  used  for  only  a  few  hours  at  a  time,  and  then 
shut  off  owing  to  the  ship  having  been  put  under  sail, 
one  boiler  is  evidently  the  most  economical,  because  one 
boiler  has  to  be  kept  under  steam  at  all  times  to  run  the 
auxiliaries,  and  the  only  increase  in  coal  consumption 
is  the  actual  amount  required  to  turn  over  the  main 
engine,  which  increase  stops  as  soon  as  the  main  en- 
gines are  again  shut  off  and  the  ship  put  under  sail, 
whereas,  if  two  boilers  are  used  under  the  same  condi- 
tions, the  coal  required  to  get  up  steam  in  the  second 
cold  boiler  is  wasted. 

Lat.  I2°.37'  N.,  Long.  46°.io'  E.    Distance  248  miles. 

Saturday,  April  15th.  Aden. — Aden  we  found  was  a 
place  of  much  greater  interest  than  we  had  expected. 
It  is  composed  of  a  group  of  settlements  and  barracks 
scattered  about  in  various  portions  of  the  promontory 
which  is  a  well- defended  British  outpost  and  forms  a 
remote  but  integral  part  of  the  presidency  of  Bombay. 
Our  anchorage  was  off  Steamer  Point  and  here  in  the 
office  of  the  ship  chandler  Cowasjee  Dinshaw  and  Bros, 
we  saw  two  beautiful  lions  eighteen  months  old  and  as 
big  as  police  dogs.  They  were  simply  chained  to  the 
veranda  rail  and  allowed  themselves  to  be  petted  and 
mauled  with  the  greatest  amiability.  The  town  of 
Aden  or  Crater  is  about  four  miles  away  along  a  sun- 
baked road  thronged  with  camels  that  almost  without 


*/-> 


POLONNARUWA 

Carved  from  a  ledge  of  black  rock  this  huge  recumbent  Buddha  is  tremendously  impressive. 
At  its  head  stands  a  figure  of  Ananda,  Buddha's  chief  disciple. 


Aden 


Aden  is  a  city  of  drought  and  of  camels,  but  here  the  ship  of  the  desert  is  usually  hitched 
ignominiously  to  a  cart. 


Ceylon,  Earths  Jewel  Box         245 

exception  were  used  not  as  beasts  of  burden,  but  to 
draw  carts  of  all  sizes  and  descriptions,  a  function  for 
which  their  anatomical  peculiarities  seem  to  make  them 
singularly  unsuited.  Passing  through  a  narrow  pass  in 
one  of  the  ridges  we  reached  the  bazaar  crowded  with 
wild  looking  Arabs,  Swahilis,  Somalis  and  representa- 
tives of  many  other  Eastern  races,  and  then  went  on  to 
the  famous  tanks.  These  are  a  group  of  masonry  recep- 
tacles for  water  constructed  in  the  clefts  of  the  hills  at  a 
period  so  remote  that  the  date  is  not  known  and  were 
excavated  and  restored  about  sixty  years  ago.  In  the 
little  garden  here  were  almost  the  only  green  things  to 
be  found  on  the  entire  promontory,  which  is  a  mass  of 
bare,  gray  rock  where  moisture  is  seldom  seen  and 
practically  all  the  water  used  is  supplied  by  several  large 
condensing  plants.  We  returned  to  Steamer  Point  by  a 
road  that  pierced  the  rock  through  one  very  long  and 
narrow  tunnel  where  we  had  to  wait  till  a  string  of 
camels  coming  in  the  opposite  direction  had  passed 
through,  and  another  shorter  one.  In  a  cage  in  some- 
body's back  yard  we  saw  a  fine  grown-up  lioness  and 
after  we  had  stopped  to  make  her  acquaintance  returned 
on  board  where  we  found  a  lively  traffic  going  on  with 
the  bumboat  men,  who  were  offering  a  new  variety  of 
wares;  gaily  colored  baskets,  ostrich  feathers,  and  the 
horns  and  hides  of  ibex  and  leopards  being  the  staples. 
At  one  o'clock  the  anchor  was  up  and  all  afternoon  we 
steamed  along  the  forbidding  Arabian  coast,  jagged  and 
much  broken  mountain  masses  alternating  with 
stretches  of  baking  sand  on  whose  yellow  expanse  an 


246  Aloha  Around  the  World 

occasional  fishing  village  could  be  seen.  Between  ten 
and  eleven  we  entered  the  Strait  of  Bab  el  Mandeb  or 
The  Gate  of  Tears,  and  rounding  the  Island  of  Perim, 
another  waterless  mass  of  rock  where  there  is  a  coaling 
station,  passed  into  the  Red  Sea  through  the  Large 
Strait,  having  made  a  fine  run  with  the  assistance  of  a 
moderate  southeast  breeze. 

Sunday,  April  16th.  Aden  to  Suez. — Easter  Sunday 
began  with  cards  all  around  from  Harriet  and  Fluff  and 
developed  into  a  splendid  sailing  day,  the  first  in  many 
weeks.  There  was  a  moderate  southeast  wind  and  with 
all  sail  set  we  made  good  speed,  at  times  as  high  as 
twelve  knots.  In  the  morning  we  passed  Jebel  Zuker, 
at  noon  Zebayer,  and  at  dusk  Jebel  Teir,  barren  water- 
less islands  all  of  them — mere  uninhabited  masses  of  rock 
on  which  the  lighthouse  keepers  must  lead  the  loneliest 
of  existences.  At  the  Easter  service  Harriet  sang  a 
fine  solo :  When  the  World  Forgets.  By  six  o'clock  the 
pleasant  breeze  began  to  drop  and  as  we  lost  speed 
Aloha  rolled  heavily  so  that  we  had  to  have  dinner  in 
the  deckhouse  instead  of  on  the  deck  outside,  something 
that  has  not  happened  in  ages,  and  at  seven-forty  we 
were  forced  to  go  back  to  steam  again. 

Lat.  I4°45'  N.,  Long.  42°.I3'  E.    Distance  245  miles. 

Monday,  April  17th.  Aden  to  Suez. — The  tempera- 
ture at  noon  today  was  ninety  degrees  but  the  water 
is  cooler  than  it  was  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  varying  from 
eighty  to  eighty-two  degrees.  A  little  before  midnight 
we  were  passing  Port  Sudan  though  it  was  out  of  sight 
on  the  western  coast,  and  Aloha  had  completed  her  tour 


Ceylon,  Earth's  Jewel  Box         247 

of  the  world  for  she  was  here  in  19 13  with  Arthur, 
Harriet,  and  William  of  the  present  company  on  board. 

Lat.  I7°.54'  N.,  Long.  40°.i8'  East.  Distance  217 
miles. 

Tuesday,  April  18th.  Aden  to  Suez. — All  day  we  have 
been  bucking  a  strong  headwind  which  has  kicked  up  a 
choppy  sea  that  causes  Aloha  to  ship  a  good  deal  of 
water  forward  and  to  pitch  heavily. 

Lat.  20°42'  N.,  Long.  280  39'  E.    Distance  195  miles. 

Wednesday,  April  igth.  Aden  to  Suez. — The  effect 
of  yesterday's  headwind  and  sea  is  reflected  in  today's 
run,  the  poorest  in  a  long  time.  Today  conditions  are 
improving  and  we  are  making  better  speed  again.         v 

Lat.  22°.34'  N.,  Long.  37°-44'  E.    Distance  121  miles. 

Thursday,  April  20th.  Aden  to  Suez. — Last  night  we 
crossed  the  tropic  of  Cancer  and  are  therefore  now  out 
of  the  tropics  where  we  have  been  for  more  than  three 
months.  The  air  is  saturated  with  moisture  and  feels 
quite  cool,  though  the  thermometer  this  afternoon 
registered  eighty-four  degrees. 

Lat.  250. 18'  N.,  Long.  36°.03'  E.   Distance  190  miles. 

Friday,  April  21st.  Aden  to  Suez. — Last  night  a 
curious  phenomenon  was  observed  by  the  captain. 
Owing  to  the  effect  of  a  mirage  the  light  on  Shadwan 
Island  in  Jubal  Strait  at  the  entrance  to  the  Gulf  of 
Suez  became  visible  at  a  distance  of  thirty-five  miles 
though  the  light  is  only  a  seventeen-mile  light.  It  was 
sighted  two  hours  sooner  than  it  should  have  been 
according  to  the  ship's  position  and  continued  to  flash 
as  it  normally  should,  all  the  time  from  the  moment  it 


248  Aloha  Around  the  World 

was  first  seen.  Now  that  we  are  in  the  Gulf  of  Suez 
both  shores  seem  near  at  hand  and  the  coastline  is  very- 
picturesque;  barren  yellow  and  reddish  brown  eleva- 
tions, sometimes  terraced  and  colored  in  a  way  that 
reminds  one  a  little  of  the  painted  desert  in  Arizona. 
Behind  the  distant  mountain  ranges  appeared  a  hazy 
shape  that  may  have  been  Mt.  Sinai,  at  any  rate  it  was 
in  the  right  position  for  that  historic  summit.  It  has 
become  so  much  cooler  that  the  bridge  is  really  a  chilly 
spot  and  we  have  dinner  in  the  saloon. 

Lat.  28°.o6'  N.,  Long.  33°.24'  E.    Distance  227  miles. 


CHAPTER  XII 

WHERE  TIME  BEGAN 

Saturday,  April  22nd.     Cairo. — At  one  o'clock  last 

night  we  anchored  at  Port  Tewfick  at  the  entrance  to 

the  Suez  Canal,  and  this  morning  Aloha  proceeded  on 

her  way  to  Port  Said  while  we  took  the  eleven  o'clock 

train  to  Cairo.    Suez  seemed  windy,  dusty,  and  not  very 

inviting  as  we  passed  through  it  shortly  after  leaving 

the  port,  and  for  miles  the  railroad  ran  across  the  desert, 

a  flat,  interminable  expanse  of  yellow  sand  with  the  blue 

ribbon  of  the  canal  making  a  streak  of  vivid  color 

through  it  on  our  right.    Ismailia,  where  we  lunched, 

seemed  much  more  attractive.    It  is  inhabited  chiefly 

by  canal  officials  and  employees  and  has  many  houses 

with  pretty  gardens,  in  fact  it  is  called  the  garden  city  of 

Egypt.     From  here  the  line  began  to  turn  westward 

and  as  we  entered  the  Nile  delta  the  wonderful  fertility 

of  this  district  became  evident.    In  the  alfalfa  fields  of 

richest  emerald  green  and  in  the  yellow  patches  of  grain 

and  flax  the  water  of  the  Nile  was  brought  up  to  the 

level  of  the  land  by  the  age-old  methods  of  the  dipping 

bucket  or  shadoof,  the  sakieh  or  large  wooden  cogged 

wheels  turned  by  our  old  friend  the  water  buffalo 

here  called  the  gamoose,  a  name  that  seems  to  fit  it 

249 


250  Aloha  Around  the  World 

very  well,  or  by  the  Archimedean  screw  incased  in  a 
long  cylinder  of  wood.  Date  palms  dotted  the  plains 
and  gave  a  touch  of  picturesqueness  to  the  otherwise 
ugly  villages  of  rectangular  brown  houses,  built  partly 
of  stone  but  nine-tenths  of  sun-baked  mud,  with  only 
the  smallest  of  windows  and  often  falling  into  sad 
disrepair.  Long  before  we  reached  Cairo  the  Pyramids 
appeared,  but  the  feeling  of  antiquity  they  gave  was 
quickly  dispelled  when  we  saw  the  city's  tram-lined, 
electric-lighted,  motor  crowded  streets,  bordered  by 
sidewalk  cafes  of  the  third  class  Parisian  type.  Shep- 
heard's  Hotel  having  emerged  from  its  temporary 
eclipse,  is  once  more  equal  to  its  ancient  reputation 
and  its  historic  terrace  seemed  the  proper  place  from 
which  to  watch  the  infinite  variety  of  Cairo's  street  life 
streaming  by.  It  was  a  little  after  five  when  we  ar- 
rived so  there  was  still  time  for  a  drive  about  the  city 
and  through  the  Muski,  the  chief  thoroughfare  of  the 
bazaar  quarter.  After  all  the  races  of  small  stature 
we  have  been  seeing  in  other  Eastern  countries,  the 
men  here  seem  big  and  husky  and  the  universal  fez 
is  very  becoming,  but  their  long  stuffy  robes,  though 
often  picturesque  in  color  appear  absurdly  hot  and  un- 
suitable to  the  climate.  Many  of  the  women  look  quite 
attractive;  always  in  black,  their  skirts  short  enough  to 
allow  silk  stockings  and  smart  looking  highheeled  shoes 
to  be  clearly  visible,  and  with  the  coquettish  modern 
yashmak,  which  has  shrunk  into  a  mere  scrap  of  the 
gauziest  white  veiling  that  is  an  attraction  rather  than 
a  concealment.     After  dinner  the  dragoman,  Tayah 


Where  Time  Began  251 

Khalid,  displayed  his  collection  of  scarabs,  necklaces, 
and  other  antique  trinkets. 

Sunday,  April  23rd.  Cairo. — The  air  was  as  cool  and 
bracing  as  that  of  a  spring  morning  at  home  when  we 
started  for  the  Pyramids.  Cairo  has  grown  rapidly 
during  recent  years  and  its  suburbs  are  being  built  up 
with  pretty  and  often  pretentious  villas,  many  of  them 
with  well-kept  gardens.  For  some  distance  we  drove 
through  a  most  unusual  avenue  of  jackaronda  trees,  a 
wonderful  vista  of  light  blue  blossoms,  and  then  con- 
tinued on  the  long  and  often  pictured  Avenue  des  Pyra- 
mides  with  rows  of  albrezias  on  either  side.  Rather  to 
our  surprise  we  found  that  the  Pyramids  instead  of  being 
isolated  in  the  center  of  a  flat  plain  are  on  something  of 
an  eminence,  and  the  camels  on  which  we  made  the  last 
stage  of  the  journey  took  us  through  a  straggling  village 
and  up  a  sandy  slope  till  we  came  suddenly  face  to  face 
with  the  Sphinx,  battered  looking  and  timeworn,  but 
still  victorious  over  the  passing  centuries.  This  image 
of  the  Sun  God  Harmachis,  beside  which  are  the  ruins 
of  the  temple  which  once  stood  at  the  head  of  the  cause- 
way forming  the  approach  to  the  Second  Pyramid,  is  a 
little  disappointing  at  first  view  because  it  is  smaller 
than  one  expects  it  to  be  and  one  looks  down  at  it  from 
the  rim  of  the  golden  bowl  of  sand  in  which  it  lies.  The 
path  then  skirts  the  base  of  the  Great  Pyramid,  and  as 
one  looks  up  at  it  one  wonders  at  the  incredible  audac- 
ity and  conceit  of  the  man,  great  ruler  though  he  was, 
who  caused  a  hundred  thousand  of  his  fellows  to  toil  at 
intervals  for  a  term  of  twenty  years  or  more  simply  to 


252  Aloha  Around  the  World 

make  a  place  where  his  mortal  remains  might  repose  in 
inviolable  security  in  order  that  his  Ka  or  spiritual  part 
should  have  enduring  existence.  Covering  thirteen 
acres  of  ground  it  is  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high  and 
someone  has  calculated  that  it  contains  enough  material 
to  enclose  the  whole  of  France  in  a  wall  four  feet 
high  and  a  foot  thick.  In  its  interior  one  makes  a 
crouching  ascent  through  steep  and  narrow  passages 
till  the  two  small  mortuary  chambers,  called  the 
King's  and  the  Queen's,  are  reached  in  the  very  center 
of  this  man-made  mountain  of  solid  rock,  that  was 
so  well  built  and  on  so  firm  a  foundation  that  through 
all  the  ages  it  has  not  settled  by  the  fraction  of  an 
inch.  After  shaking  off  the  pestiferous  horde  of  rau- 
cous-voiced, bakshish-begging,  fortune-telling,  donkey- 
driving,  camel-leading,  pyramid-climbing  highbinders 
that  dog  every  step  of  the  visitor  and  effectually  pre- 
vent any  musings  on  the  past  from  gaining  ascend- 
ency over  the  urgencies  of  the  present,  we  went  back  to 
the  city  and  spent  the  rest  of  the  morning  in  the  museum. 
This  is  a  joy  to  the  spirit,  a  model  of  all  that  a  museum 
should  be,  and  we  wandered  through  its  perfectly  ar- 
ranged and  displayed  collections,  gazing  at  Cleopatra's 
trinkets,  the  papyruses  of  Ahkenaton,  the  mummies  of 
the  Pharaoh  who  so  oppressed  the  children  of  Israel  and 
of  many  another  mighty  ruler,  at  the  furniture  found  in 
the  tomb  of  Iuia  and  Tuiu  his  wife,  the  designs  of  which, 
thousands  of  years  later,  Napoleon  made  popular  as  the 
Empire  style,  and  scores  of  other  interesting  and  often 
beautiful  objects.    In  the  afternoon  from  the  parapet 


Where  Time  Began  253 

of  the  citadel  we  saw  the  city  spread  out  at  our  feet  with 
the  Pyramids  in  the  distance  and  still  further  away  the 
even  older  monuments  at  Sakkara  plainly  to  be  seen. 
On  the  terrace  behind  us  was  the  gorgeous  Mosque  of 
Mohammed  AH,  a  finely  proportioned  building  of  many 
domes  built  of  alabaster  within  and  without,  and  with 
two  lance- like  minarets  of  great  height  and  beauty  that 
dominate  the  view  whenever  one  looks  at  Cairo  from  a 
distance.  From  here  we  threaded  the  twisting  narrow 
lanes  of  ancient  Cairo  and  stopped  to  see  the  Coptic 
Church  called  the  Hanging  Church  because  it  is  built  on 
four  pillars  and  is  approached  by  a  stairway.  It  was 
erected  fourteen  hundred  years  ago  and  contains  some 
beautiful  panelling  of  ebony  and  ivory.  Still  more  in- 
teresting was  the  church  of  Abu  Sargah  built  over  the 
crypt  in  which  the  Holy  Family  is  said  to  have  taken 
refuge  during  the  flight  to  Egypt.  From  here  we  em- 
barked on  the  Nile,  though  the  trip  was  a  short  one,  in  a 
little  one  man-and-boy  power  ferry  boat  that  took  us  to 
the  island  of  Roda  where  Moses  was  found  in  the  bull- 
rushes,  and  where  we  also  saw  the  nilometer  or  ancient 
pillar  of  marble  which  marks  the  rise  of  the  great  river 
during  the  season  of  inundation  beginning  in  August 
and  reaching  its  climax  in  September.  Today  is  Arthur 
and  Harriet's  wedding  anniversary  and  dinner  was 
made  a  special  celebration  of  the  event. 

Monday,  April  24th.  Cairo. — Arthur,  Harriet,  and 
William  for  whom  Egypt  has  lost  the  interest  of  novelty, 
went  to  Port  Said  on  the  eleven  o'clock  train,  but  the 
rest  of  us,  to  whom  this  ancient  land  is  still  new,  made  an 


254  Aloha  Around  the  World 

excursion  to  Sakkara.  This  was  the  necropolis  of  Mem- 
phis and  it  is  an  interesting  thing  that  while  the  city  of 
the  living  has  vanished  almost  completely  the  city  of  the 
dead  still  lives.  The  road  for  much  of  the  distance 
follows  the  Nile  and  is  built  on  a  dyke  to  keep  it  above 
the  level  of  the  inundations.  On  either  side  lie  wonder- 
fully fertile  looking  fields,  while  from  time  to  time  the 
felucas  with  their  triangular  sails  seen  through  the 
palms  make  the  pictures  that  one  always  associates 
with  the  Nile.  Near  Sakkara  the  road  becomes  the 
merest  trail  and  finally  fades  away  completely  into  the 
desert,  a  gently  rolling,  absolutely  barren,  endless  waste 
of  sand — fit  setting  for  the  ragged  and  unkempt  looking 
Step  Pyramid,  built  at  least  six  thousand  years  ago,  and 
the  oldest  building  in  the  world.  Here,  beneath  the 
burning  plain  lie  buried  the  tombs  of  the  leading  citizens 
of  great  Memphis,  once  the  capital  of  Egypt,  which 
stood  a  few  miles  away.  Some  of  them  have  already 
been  excavated  and  many  others  still  remain  concealed 
under  the  sandy  hillocks.  The  prosperous  Egyptian 
of  those  early  days  made  his  tomb  almost  as  large  and 
elaborate  and  much  more  permanent  than  his  house, 
and  in  the  Tomb  of  Thi,  a  rich  man  who  died  about 
2700  B.C.,  one  may  see  a  complete  representation  of  the 
life  of  the  times.  The  various  rooms  are  decorated  with 
bas-reliefs  depicting  the  ordinary  occupations  and 
amusements  of  the  deceased  and  his  retainers,  most  of 
them  executed  with  a  grace  and  spirit  that  make  it 
seem  impossible  that  they  were  fashioned  at  the  very 
dawn  of  history.    Down  another  declivity  in  the  sand 


Cairo 

The  citadel,  with  the  graceful  minarets  of  the  Mosque  of  Mohammed  AH  that  are  visible 

for  many  miles. 


Memphis 

Memphis,  once  the  pride  of  the  Pharaohs,  has  vanished  utterly.     Only  a  few  monuments 
like  the  above  recently  excavated  sphinx,  mark  the  site  of  it's  ancient  splendor. 


/ 


Where  Time  Began  255 

one  enters  the  Serapeum,  a  high-arched  subterranean 
gallery  cut  from  the  solid  rock  and  stretching  on  and  on 
apparently  interminably.  In  large  recesses  at  the  sides 
are  the  twenty-four  sarcophagi  of  stone  in  which  were 
preserved  the  bodies  of  the  Apis  or  sacred  bulls  and  it  is 
overwhelming  to  think  of  the  toil  that  went  to  the  exca- 
vation of  these  great  underground  corridors  before  the 
day  of  steam  or  of  explosives,  and  to  the  transportation 
of  the  immense  blocks  of  granite  for  the  sarcophagi  from 
the  quarries  at  Assuan,  five  hundred  miles  away.  On 
the  way  back,  at  the  site  of  Memphis  of  whose  rryid- 
walled  dwellings  nothing  remains,  we  stopped  to  see  the 
colossal  statues  of  Rameses  II,  recumbent  and  broken 
by  the  roadside,  and  a  fine  recently  excavated  sphinx. 
We  reached  the  hotel  again  in  good  season  for  lunch  and 
afterwards  in  the  side  streets  running  from  the  Muski 
we  found  bazaars  that  seemed  the  most  promising  store- 
houses of  fascinating  articles  of  all  kinds  we  have  yet 
seen,  but  we  are  rather  blase  shoppers  now  and  there 
was  too  little  time  for  bargaining  in  the  approved 
fashion.  So  we  cut  our  stay  there  short  in  order  to  go 
on  to  the  Mosque  of  Hassan,  a  big  and  massive  build- 
ing constructed  of  stone  taken  from  the  Great  Pyra- 
mid, but  not  to  be  compared  in  our  opinion  with  the 
one  in  the  citadel.  At  six-fifteen  we  were  in  the  train 
and  reached  Port  Said  at  eleven,  Aloha  sailing  immedi- 
ately after  our  return  on  board. 

Tuesday,  April  25th.  Port  Said  to  Beirut. — There 
was  a  light  southeast  breeze  so  that  during  the  day  we 
went  on  with  all  sail  set  but  towards  evening  it  dropped 


256  Aloha  Around  the  World 

and  steam  was  put  on  again.  Distance  since  midnight, 
109  miles.  Total  distance  from  Port  Said  to  Beirut, 
265  miles. 

Wednesday,  April  26th.  Beirut. — We  anchored  this 
morning  at  five-fifteen  in  the  harbor  of  Beirut  and  Jake 
went  ashore  early  to  discuss  the  affairs  of  the  American 
University  of  Beirut,  formerly  the  Syrian  Protestant 
College,  with  the  acting  president,  Mr.  Nickolay.  The 
rest  of  us  followed  later  and  were  interested  in  the  fine 
college  buildings  and  in  the  up-to-date  one  hundred 
and  fifty  bed  hospital  through  which  we  were  con- 
ducted by  the  superintendent,  Mrs.  Dale.  By  this  time 
it  was  eleven  o'clock,  but  it  seemed  possible  to  make  a 
hasty  excursion  to  the  great  ruins  at  Baalbek,  and  by 
driving  fast  we  covered  the  two  hundred  odd  kilo- 
meters there  and  back  in  time  to  be  on  board  again  at 
six  o'clock.  The  drive  through  the  hills  of  Lebanon 
was  one  of  the  finest  we  have  had  on  the  entire  trip, 
over  a  high  ridge  with  snow  covered  mountains  around 
us,  past  hillsides  and  valleys  that  seemed  as  rocky  as 
anything  in  Connecticut  and  then  down  into  the  magnifi- 
cent Bekaa  Valley,  a  vast  perfectly  level  plain  famous 
since  time  immemorial  for  its  great  fertility.  Here 
were  many  flocks  of  sheep  in  charge  of  Bedouin  shep- 
herds whose  black  tents  dotted  the  plain,  long  camel 
trains  went  by  with  tinkling  bells,  and  horsemen  with 
gun  and  burnous  passed  us  looking  as  if  they  had  just 
cantered  out  of  the  frame  of  one  of  Schreyer's  pictures. 
There  is  an  air  of  prosperity  about  the  country,  the 
villages  are  clean  and  the  houses  built  of  stone  with  red 


Baalbek 

Evidences  of  the  departed  magnificence  of  what  2000  years  ago  was  one  of  the  great 
cities  of  the  world. 


Where  Time  Began  257 

tiled  roofs,  and  the  hillsides  are  covered  with  vineyards, 
olive  groves,  and  mulberry  trees  so  that  one  is  often  re- 
minded of  the  Italian  landscape.  The  Druses  and 
Maronites  who  make  up  the  bulk  of  the  population  are 
a  handsome  and  self-respecting  people  and  there  is  none 
of  the  clamoring  for  bakshish  that  makes  the  Egyp- 
tian and  Indian  crowds  so  objectionable.  The  date  of 
the  foundation  of  Baalbek  belongs  to  the  remotest  days 
of  history,  but  early  in  the  second  century  Heliopolis, 
as  it  was  then  called,  is  known  to  have  been  the  most 
important  city  of  Syria.  Modern  Baalbek  is  a  village 
of  some  size  surrounding  the  ruins  of  the  great  acropolis, 
of  which  the  temples  of  Jupiter  and  Bacchus  were  the 
most  important  buildings.  They  are  truly  magnifi- 
cent, with  splendid  spacious  courtyards  and  colonnades 
of  pillars  seventy  feet  in  height  and  sculptures  beauti- 
fully finished  in  detail.  There  is  nothing  in  the  Forum 
to  surpass  them,  Fluff  thought  they  were  equal  to  any- 
thing in  Greece,  and  William  said  he  considered  them 
just  as  impressive  as  the  ruins  of  Karnak.  As  we  were 
getting  into  the  launch  to  return  to  the  yacht  we  met 
Mr.  Nickolay  and  Harry  Dorman,  whom  I  was  de- 
lighted to  see  again  after  many  years  and  who  has  the 
chair  of  surgery  in  the  medical  school.  Harriet,  who 
was  kept  on  board  by  her  cold,  received  visits  during 
the  day  from  Mrs.  Huntington  from  Robert  College  at 
Constantinople,  and  from  Mrs.  Dodge  and  Mrs.  Nicko- 
lay. At  six-thirty  we  left  the  harbor  on  the  last  lap 
of  our  journey,  headed  for  Marseilles. 

Thursday,  April  27th.    Beirut  to  Marseilles. — It  is 
17 


258  Aloha  Around  the  World 

cold  and  breezy  but  as  usual  the  wind  is  dead  ahead 
and  there  is  also  a  heavy  head  sea  that  makes  us  pitch 
and  roll  in  a  very  disagreeable  way.  We  have  had  to 
run  about  thirty  miles  north  of  our  course  and  have  ap- 
proached within  three  or  four  miles  of  the  shores  of 
Cyprus,  a  rather  forbidding  coast  line  of  high  white 
cliffs. 

Lat.  34°.22;  N.,  Long.  33°.05;  E.  Distance  123 
miles. 

Friday,  April  28th.  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — We  are 
back  on  our  course  again  but  although  by  observation 
we  have  made  only  one  hundred  fifty-one  miles  toward 
our  destination,  the  log  shows  that  owing  to  our  detour 
to  the  northward  we  have  actually  covered  one  hundred 
and  sixty -nine  miles  through  the  water.  The  night  was 
a  rather  uneasy  one  but  during  the  day  the  wind  and  sea 
have  been  moderating  and  we  are  making  good  progress 
again.  It  has  become  much  colder,  the  air  tempera- 
ture is  sixty-six  degrees  and  that  of  the  water  only  sixty 
degrees. 

Lat.  34°.i3'  N.,  Long.  30°.05'  E.  Distance  151 
miles. 

Saturday,  April  2Qth.  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — With 
a  smooth  sea  and  no  wind  we  have  been  steaming  along 
the  Island  of  Crete  all  day,  the  snow-covered  crests  of 
its  mountain  ranges  clearly  in  sight. 

Lat.  34°.33'  N.,  Long.  26°.o6'  E.  Distance  203 
miles. 

Sunday,  April  30th.  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — During 
the  morning  the  sea  again  was  like  a  surface  of  polished 


Where  Time  Began  259 

agate,  but  in  the  afternoon  a  light  S.  E.  breeze  sprang 
up  and  by  evening  it  became  strong  enough  to  justify 
setting  the  square  sails. 

Lat.  35°.397  N.,  Long.  2i°49'  E.     Distance  222  miles. 

Monday,  May  1st.  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — In  the 
early  morning  hours  the  sails  were  furled  again  but 
although  there  has  been  little  wind  there  has  been  a 
choppy  sea  that  caused  us  to  roll  a  good  deal.  During 
the  afternoon  the  wind  came  up  a  little  but  was  very 
fluky  and  changeable  in  direction  so  that  it  did  us  no 
good.  Toward  dusk  we  were  close  to  the  Italian  shore 
and  after  dinner  had  a  fine  view  of  Sicily  and  of  Etna 
with  a  long  trail  of  smoke  from  its  summit  streaming 
across  the  sky.  As  Aloha  was  entering  the  Straits  of 
Messina  the  Nicholson  log,  which  registered  about 
4000  miles  on  our  departure,  turned  its  third  ten  thou- 
sand miles  since  leaving  New  York,  the  first  having 
been  just  before  reaching  Hilo  and  the  second  just  be- 
fore reaching  Java. 

Lat.  37°.o8'  N.,  Long.  i7°.o6'  E.  Distance  242 
miles. 

Tuesday,  May  2nd.  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — At  mid- 
night we  were  passing  the  Scylla  and  Charybdis  of  the 
ancients,  and  the  towns  of  Reggio  and  Messina  on  op- 
posite sides  of  the  narrow  strait  made  a  fascinating 
spectacle  with  their  myriad  lights  twinkling  in  the  dark- 
ness. Stromboli  was  abeam  at  five  this  morning,  its 
well-formed  cone  rising  straight  out  of  the  sea  and  look- 
ing quite  like  the  typical  volcano  pictured  in  the  geo- 
graphy.    Before  the  dawn  came  intermittent  red  flashes 


260  Aloha  Around  the  World 

from  its  crater  could  be  seen,  but  with  increasing  day- 
light they  were  no  longer  visible.  All  day  we  have 
been  contending  with  the  usual  headwind,  and  to- 
night there  was  a  sharp  squall  with  a  shower,  the  first 
rain  we  have  seen  since  leaving  Java  early  in  Febru- 
ary. Tonight  the  thermometer  registers  fifty  degrees 
but  it  feels  much  colder  than  that. 

Lat.  39°.i8r  N.,  Long,  i4°.o8'  E.  Distance  209 
miles. 

Wednesday,  May  3rd,  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — It  con- 
tinues quite  cold  with  a  heavy  sea.  The  wind  is  erratic 
but  comes  mostly  from  the  northwest  and  delays  our 
progress  a  good  deal.  Late  in  the  afternoon  Sardinia 
and  Corsica  came  in  sight,  and  their  irregular  mountain 
ranges  made  a  fine  background  for  the  setting  sun. 
Bonifacio  Strait  between  the  two  islands  requires  care- 
ful navigation  but  it  is  well  lighted  and  by  midnight  we 
were  through  it  with  clear  water  ahead  of  us  to 
Marseilles. 

Lat.  40°4o'  N.,  Long.  io°.52'  E.  Distance  178 
miles. 

Thursday,  May  4th.  Beirut  to  Marseilles. — Our  last 
day's  run  has  been  made  against  a  light  headwind,  and 
over  long  sweeping  rollers.  All  evening  we  have  been 
in  sight  of  the  lights  along  the  Riviera,  and  we  should 
reach  Marseilles  during  the  early  morning  hours,  as  it  is 
only  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  distant  from  our 
noon  position.  Peter  has  been  auditing  the  scores  of 
the  six  hundred  rubbers  of  bridge  that  have  been  played 
on    the  trip  with  the  following    results: — In   points 


Where  Time  Began  261 

Peter  is  highest  with  three  hundred  and  twenty-eight, 
Harriet  next  with  one  hundred  and  forty,  and  Jake 
third  with  ninety-one.  The  nine  championships  of  the 
different  oceans  were  won  as  follows : — 

Atlantic,  Red  Sea,  Indian  Ocean :  Jake 3 

Western  Pacific,  Philippines,  Mediterranean :  Peter  3 

Eastern  Pacific,  Japan  and  China :  Harriet 2 

Java,  Straits  Settlements,  and  India :  Corinna ....  1 

The  scores  afford  an  interesting  confirmation  of  the 
observation  often  made  before  that  when  the  same 
people  play  together  for  a  long  period  of  time  the  differ- 
ences between  the  total  scores  are  very  small.  In  this 
case,  if  the  play  had  been  for  a  cent  a  point,  no  one 
would  have  won  or  lost  more  than  two  or  three  dollars. 

Lat.  42°.ii'  N.,  Long.  7°.59'  E.   Distance  190  miles. 

Friday,  May  $th.  The  231st  day  of  the  cruise.  Mar- 
seilles.— We  are  moored  to  the  dock  alongside  of  the 
former  Vanadis,  in  sight  of  the  famous  Cannebi&re  flut- 
tering with  flags  in  honor  of  President  Millerand  who 
is  expected  to  arrive  from  Corsica  this  afternoon.  After 
lunch  we  are  starting  for  Paris,  leaving  Aloha  here  to 
refit  for  a  day  or  two  and  then  sail  home  across  the 
Atlantic  without  us. 

The  only  disappointment  has  been  that  we  did  not 
have  more  sailing  weather,  and  in  that  respect  our  ex- 
perience has  been  really  extraordinary.  During  the  last 
three  months  of  the  trip  we  cruised  over  ten  thousand 
miles,  but  only  two  hundred  and  forty  of  these  were 
made  under  sail.  Even  in  the  passage  from  Java  to 
Ceylon  where  strong  northeast  monsoons  were  to  be 


262  Aloha  Around  the  World 

expected,   we   encountered  only  protracted  calms  or 
light  headwinds. 

The  long  and  eventful  cruise  is  over,  and  Jake  has  the 
satisfaction  of  having  taken  Aloha  around  the  world 
without  a  single  mishap  or  accident  of  any  kind,  and  of 
having  given  his  guests  an  unforgettable  and  unique 
experience  that  will  leave  nothing  but  the  pleasantest 
memories.  Now,  with  a  real  heartache  we  are  leaving 
Aloha,  our  wonderful  home  for  so  many  months,  and  are 
saying  gcod-by  to  the  captain,  the  officers  and  the  crew 
who  have  all  done  their  parts  so  well  in  caring  for  our 
comfort  and  safety.  From  our  kind  hosts  and  from 
our  fellow-travelers  we  happily  do  not  part  as  yet,  but 
for  you,  brave  ship,  that  has  carried  us  so  far  and 
brought  us  all  so  many  good  and  pleasant  things,  there  is 
no  better  or  more  expressive  farewell  greeting  than 
your  own  fine  name :  Aloha!  Aloha,  Oel 


APPENDIX 

EXTRACTS  FROM  ALOHA'S  LOG  ON  HER  PASSAGE  FROM 
MARSEILLES  TO  NEW  YORK 

May  ioth. — At  5.30  p.m.  departed  from  Marseilles. 
Light  wind  and  smooth  sea.  Ship  under  steam.  One 
of  the  oilers  who  by  mutual  consent  had  left  the  ship  at 
Marseilles  was  discovered  as  a  stowaway  three  hours 
after  putting  to  sea. 

May  nth. — Light  wind  and  smooth  sea. 

Lat.  4i°.24'  N.,  Long.  2°.^'  E.     Distance  164  miles. 

May  1 2th. — Light  wind  and  smooth  sea.  Passed 
St.  Antonio  8.40  a.m. 

Lat.  38°.i6'  N.,  Long.  o°.02/  E.     Distance  229  miles. 

May  13th. — Fine  and  clear  with  fresh  westerly  wind 
and  moderate  sea.  At  8  p.m.  passed  Palos  Light  at 
seven  miles  distance. 

Lat.  36°43'  N.,  Long.  2°.22'  W.    Distance  160  miles. 

May  14th. — Strong  westerly  gale  and  rough  sea.  At 
2  p.m.  came  to  anchor  in  Roqutas  Roads  on  account  of 
strong  headwind.  At  3  a.m.  wind  moderating  and  sea 
smoother,  proceeded. 

Lat.  36°.23'  N.,  Long.  3°.5o'  W.     Distance  75  miles. 

May  15th. — Fresh  breeze,  choppy  sea,  partly  cloudy. 

At  midnight  passed  Europa  Point. 

Lat.  36°.03'  N.,  Long.  7°.03'  W.    Distance  186  miles. 

263 


264  Appendix 

May  1 6th. — Light  northerly  wind,  smooth  seas. 
Ship  under  sail  and  steam  till  midnight,  and  then  under 
sail  alone. 

Lat.  34°.59'  N.,  Long.  ii°.I3'  W.  Distance  217 
miles. 

May  17th. — Wind  falling,  calm.  At  8  a.m.  ship  under 
steam.     Latter  part  of  day  calm,  with  smooth  sea. 

D.  R.  Lat.  34°.5o'  N.,  Long.  I4°.57'  W.  Distance 
186  miles. 

May  18th. — Light  N.  W.  wind;  smooth  sea,  cloudy. 
Ship  under  steam. 

D.  R.  Lat.  34°-52'  N.,  Long.  190. 13'  W.  Distance 
208  miles. 

May  igth. — Calm,  long  rolling  swell  from  N.  W. 
Cloudy  sky.  Latter  part  of  day  light  S.  E.  wind.  Ship 
under  fore  and  aft  sails  and  steam. 

Lat.  34°-56'  N.,  Long.  23°43'  W.  Distance  221 
miles. 

May  20th. — Light  breeze,  heavy  rain  squalls  and 
smooth  sea.  At  6  a.m.  wind  shifting  to  N.  W.  with 
heavy  rain  squalls.  At  8  a.m.  shut  of!  steam  and  put 
on  all  sail.     Wind  N.,  moderate  breeze. 

Lat.  35°.o6'  N.,  Long.  26.32'  W.     Distance  140  miles. 

May  2 1  st. — Clear  sky.  Light  N.  W.  breeze,  smooth 
sea. 

Lat.  34°45'  N.,  Long.  30°.i6'  W.  Distance  190 
miles. 

May  22nd. — Calm,  clear,  and  fine.     Smooth  sea. 

Lat.  340.ior  N.,  Long.  33°.38'  W.  Distance  163 
miles. 


Appendix  265 

May  2jrd. — Fresh  breeze,  smooth  sea,  clear  and  fine. 

Lat.  34°.oi'  N.,  Long.  37°.52'  W.  Distance  198 
miles. 

May  24th. — Light  N.  W.  wind,  heavy  swell,  partly 
cloudy  with  passing  squalls.  At  noon  put  ship  under 
full  sail;  fresh  breeze,  fine  and  clear. 

Lat.  34°44'  N.,  Long.  4i°.28'  W.  Distance  185 
miles. 

May  25th. — Wind  moderate  to  calm.  At  6  a.m.  put 
ship  under  steam.  At  10.30  p.m.  put  ship  under  sail. 
Wind  increasing  to  strong  gale,  heavy  rain  squalls  and 
cross- sea;  carried  away  fore  lower  topsail. 

Lat.  35°47'  N.,  Long.  44°.54'  W.  Distance  180 
miles. 

May  26th. — At  7  p.m.  wind  falling,  calm;  put  ship 
under  steam.  Heavy  rain  squalls.  Light  S.  W.  wind, 
rough  irregular  sea.    9 

Lat.  35°.27'  N.,  Long.  46°.56;  W.  Distance  102 
miles. 

May  27th. — Calm  to  light  variable  winds.  Long 
rolling  swell.     6  a.m.  shut  off  steam  and  set  all  sail. 

Lat.  35°.3i'  N.,  Long.  5i°.22'  W.  Distance  220 
miles. 

May  28th. — Fresh  N.  W.  breeze,  choppy  head  sea; 
cloudy  sky.     Ship  under  steam  and  sail. 

Lat.  36°.39;  N.,  Long.  54°.53'  W.  Distance  185 
miles. 

May  29th. — Strong  breeze  and  rain,  rough  sea. 
4  p.m.  wind  shifting  from  S.  E.  to  N.,  with  heavy  rain. 
4.30  p.m.  in  a  heavy  squall  carried  away  the  main  upper 


266  Appendix 

topsail.  Latter  part  of  day  strong  N.  E.  wind,  rough 
sea,  cloudy  sky.     Bent  new  main  upper  topsail. 

Lat.  36°.5i  N.,  Long.  59°.52'  W.  Distance  240 
miles. 

May  30th. — Moderate  breeze.  Smooth  sea.  Furled 
all  sails  and  put  ship  under  steam.  Latter  part  of  day 
calm  with  light  fog. 

Lat.  37°.57'  N.,  Long.  64°.03'  W.  Distance  212 
miles. 

May  j  1st. — Light  variable  wind  and  calm.  Smooth 
sea.     Weather  clear. 

Lat.  390.22'  N.,  Long.  67°.2o'  W.  Distance  182 
miles. 

June  1st. — Light  variable  wind  and  calm,  smooth 
sea,  with  clear  sky.  At  2.30  a.m.  passed  Nantucket 
lightship  at  ten  miles.  Cast  lead  in  38  fathoms  of  water. 
At  1. 1 5  p.m.  passed  Brenton's  #  Reef  lightship.  At 
1.40  p.m.  came  to  anchor  in  Newport  Harbor.  At 
2.15  p.m.  visited  by  quarantine  officer;  after  inspection 
proceeded  to  dock. 


Appendix 


267 


Summary  of  Distances  and  Sailing  Times 


Arrived 


Miles     Days 


Sept, 

,  15th 

New  York 

to   Colon 

Sept. 

27th 

2190 

12 

Sept. 

,  28th 

Colon 

"    Panama 

Sept. 

28th 

SO 

X 

Sept. 

,  29th 

Panama 

"    Hilo,  Hawaii 

Oct. 

28th 

4994 

28 

Oct. 

30th 

Hilo 

"    Honolulu,  Hawaii 

Oct. 

31st 

220 

I 

Nov. 

sth 

Honolulu 

"    Yokohama 

Nov. 

29th 

3895 

22 

Dec. 

nth 

Yokohama 

"    Kobe 

Dec. 

13th 

350 

2 

Dec. 

15th 

Kobe 

"    Fusan 

Dec. 

17th 

410 

2 

Dec. 

19th 

Fusan 

"    Shanghai 

Dec. 

2 1st 

SSO 

3 

Dec. 

29th 

Shanghai 

"    Nanking 

Dec. 

31st 

210 

a 

Jan. 

3rd 

Nanking 

"    Shanghai 

Jan. 

4th 

210 

1 

Jan. 

sth 

Shanghai 

"    Foochow 

Jan. 

8th 

430 

3 

Jan. 

1  oth 

Foochow 

"    Hong  Kong 

Jan. 

1 2th 

456 

2 

Jan. 

1 6th 

Hong  Kong 

"    Corregidor,  P.  I. 

Jan. 

19th 

595 

3 

Jan. 

20th 

Corregidor 

"    Iloilo.  P.  I. 

Jan. 

22nd 

317 

2 

Jan. 

23rd 

Iloilo 

Zamboanga,  P.  I. 

Jan. 

24th 

260 

I 

Jan. 

26th 

Zamboanga 

"    Jolo,  P.  I. 

Jan. 

26th 

90 

H 

Jan. 

27th 

Jolo 

"    Borneo 

Jan. 

29th 

443 

2 

Jan. 

31st 

Borneo 

"    Soerabaia,  Java 

Feb. 

2nd 

550 

3 

Feb. 

9th 

Soerabaia 

"    Batavia,  Java 

Feb. 

nth 

431 

2 

Feb. 

13th 

Batavia 

"    Singapore,  S.S. 

Feb. 

16th 

552 

3 

Feb. 

18th 

Singapore 

"    Penang,  S.  S. 

Feb. 

20th 

400 

2 

Feb. 

20th 

Penang 

"    Rangoon,  Burma 

Feb. 

24th 

737 

4 

Feb. 

25th 

Rangoon 

"    Calcutta,  India 

Mar. 

1st 

779 

3 

Mar. 

1 8th 

Calcutta 

"    Madras,  India 

Mar. 

22nd 

822 

4 

Mar. 

25th 

Madras 

"    Colombo,  Ceylon 

Mar. 

28th 

606 

3 

Apr. 

Sth 

Colombo 

"    Aden,  Arabia 

Apr. 

14th 

2097 

9 

Apr. 

15th 

Aden 

"    Port  Suez,  Egypt 

Apr. 

22nd 

1318 

7 

Apr. 

22nd 

Suez 

"    Port  Said,  Egypt 

Apr. 

23rd 

IOO 

1 

Apr. 

24th 

Port  Said 

"    Beirut,  Syria 

Apr. 

26th 

265 

2 

Apr. 

26th 

Beirut 

"    Marseilles 

May 

5th 

1600 

8 

May 

1  oth 

Marseilles 

M    Newport,  U.  S.  A. 

June 

1st 

3900 

22 

28,827 


267 


INDEX 


Adams,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  39 

Adashi,  Mrs.,  67 

Addis,  Sir  Charles,  Director  of  the 

Consortium,  Hong  Kong,  130 
Addis,  Miss  Betty,  130 
Aden,  242 

Agra,  200;  the  Taj-Mahal,  200 
Ahmedabad,  217 
Ahmednagar,  222 
Aloha,  crew,  5;  dimensions,  5;  log, 

Marseilles  to  New  York,  263; 

record  run,  11 
Alston,   Sir   Bealby   and   Lady, 

British  Ambassador  to  China, 

96, 101, 107 
Amber,  214 
Amuck,  running,  142 
Ancon,  14 
Andrews,    Mr.    and    Mrs.    Roy 

Chapman,  107, 108 
Arabia,  Aden,  244 
Armistice  Day,  46 
Atherton,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Roy,  96 


B 


Baalbek,  256,  257 

Balboa,  13,  14 

Ball,  Mrs.,  113 

Ballantyne,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,   65, 

68 
Batavia,  165 
Beirut,  256 
Benares,  192 
Bengal,  Bay  of,  175,  224 
Benton,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Lawrence, 

*37,  138 
Bishop,  Colonel,  134 
Blagden,  Tom,  78 
Blair,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  170,  171 
Boilers,  comparison  of  one  and 

two,  243 


Bombay,  218 

Borneo,  144, 147 

Boroboedoer,  155 

Botanical  Gardens,  Buitenzorg, 
163;  Calcutta,  191;  Hakgala, 
236;  Penang,  174;  Peradeniya, 
228 

Bridge  scores,  260 

Brockman,  Mr.,  83 

Brown,  Arthur,  43 

Brown,  Mr.  Raymond  C,  Secre- 
tary of  Hawaiian  Islands,  43 

Buitenzorg,  163 

Bull,  Mr.,  116 

Burch,  Mr.,  British  Embassy, 
Tokyo,  63 

Burmah,  Rangoon,  175 

Burning  Ghat,  at  Benares,  195 

Buttolph,  Mr.  Guy,  37,  38 


Cairo,  250 

Calcutta,  182,  190 

Canton,  127 

Carl,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Francis  A., 
91,93,108 

Carl,  Miss,  91, 101, 102, 105 

Carter,  ex-Governor  George,  39 

Carver,  Mr.,  85,  86 

Castle,  Mrs.  James,  39 

Cawnpore,  198 

Celebes  Sea,  143 

Ceylon,  Colombo,  225,  235;  Dam- 
bulla,  229,  232;  Kandy,  227, 
232;  Nuwara  Elyia,  234,  236; 
Polonnaruwa,  229;  Sigiriya,  232 

Cheribon,  159 

China,  Canton,  127;  Foochow, 
119;  Hankow,  109;  Han  River, 
no;  Han  Yang,  no;  Hong 
Kong,  125;  Kiu  Ktang,  113; 
Mukden,  85;  Nanking,  114; 
Nankqw,  100 ;  Peking,  89 ;  Shang- 


269 


270 


Index 


China — Continued 
hai,  116;  Wu  Chang,  no;  Wu 
Sue,  113;  Yangtze  River,  112 

Chinese  dinner,  105;  funeral,  97; 
theater,  116 

Coffin,  Mr.,  dispatcher  of  Panama 
Canal,  12 

Colombo,  225,  235 

Colombo  to  Aden,  steaming  re- 
cord, 243 

Colon,  n,  12 

Cone,  Captain,  68 

Cooper,  Dr.  C.  B.,  41 

Cormorant  fishing,  121 

Corregidor,  133 

Corsica,  260 

Cosuaki,  63 

Crete,  258 

Cristobal,  12 

Crozier,  General  and  Mrs.,  202 

Cyprus,  258 


D 


Daibutsu,    Kamakura,    55,    77; 

Nara,  77 
Dale,  Mrs.,  256 
Dambulla,  229,  232 
Darjeeling,  184 
de  Freitas,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  130 
Delhi,  206;  Kutb  Minar,  207 
Denton,  Miss,  71,  73,  75,  78 
de  Salis,  Count,  British  Embassy, 

Tokyo,  63,  68 
Dexter,  Miss,  no 
Dindings,  171 

Distances  and  sailing  times,  267 
Djokjakarta,  152;  Sultan's  palace, 

154 
Dodge,  Miss,  257 
Dole,   Judge,   first   President   of 

Hawaiian  Republic,  41,  42 
Dorman,  Harry,  257 
Doshisha,  Kyoto,  71,  74;  Tokyo, 

64 
Drummond,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  78 
Dyer,  Dr.,  121 


E 


Ebina,  President,  74 

Egleston,  Harold,  58,  63,  68,  98, 

108 
Egypt,  Cairo,  250;  Ismailia,  249; 

Memphis,   255;   Sakkara,   254; 

Suez,  249 


Elder,  Mr.,  85 

Elephants,  Dambulla,  230;  Katu- 

gastota,  228,  234;  Rangoon,  178 
Ena,  Miss,  40 
Enoshima,  55 
Evans,  Col.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gary, 

210 


Fairbank,  Edward,  190,  202,  21 1, 

221,  222 
Farrington,  Governor  and  Mrs,,  41 
Fatehpur  Sikri,  204 
Fellers,  Lieutenant,  134 
Finch,  Miss,  55 
Fletcher,  Major,  138 
Folger,  Mr.,  no 
Foochow,  119 
Forgo,  Mr.,  69 
Frazar,  Mr.,  54,  56,  85 
Fuji,  55,  60,  69,  70 
Fusan,  82 
Fushiwa,  Prince,  67 


Gale,  Mr.,    no 

Gall,  Mrs.,  Chairman  of  Y.  W.  C. 

A.,  India,  190,  191 
Ganges,  bathing  in  the,  194 
Ganjiro,  Japanese  actor,  75 
Garoet,  160 
Gauntlet,  Mr.,  191 
Gebhart,  Dr.,  Surgeon,  Foochow 

Hospital,     122 
Gillies,  Captain,  iq8 
Gomez,  Mr.  Guillermo,  135 
Goto,  Baron,  Mayor  of  Tokyo,  59 
Goto,  Mrs.  Haruko,  59 
Great  Wall  of  China,  99 
Gregory,  Dr.,  42 

H 
Haiti,  9,  14 

Hall,  Mrs.  Charles  L.,  42,  43 
Halsey,    Mr.,    Commissioner    of 

Immigration,  Honolulu,  37,  42 
Hamaguchi,  Mr.,  78 
Hankow,  110 
Han    Yang,     no 
Hawaiian    Islands,    Hawaii,    32; 

Lanai,  37;  Maui,  37;  Molokai, 

37;  Oahu,  39 
Hazeltine,  Major,  41 
Hedeman,  Ferdinand,  38,  41 


Index 


271 


Hilo,  32 

Himalayas,  188 

Hoag,  Mr.,  116 

Hong  Korfg,  125 

Honolulu,  39;  Camp  Scofield,  39; 
Diamond  Head,  37,  43;  Mount 
Tantalus,  41;  Pali,  38,  39,  41; 
Pearl  Harbor,  39;  Waikiki,  37, 
38,  43 

Honolulti  to  Yeddo  Bay,  summary 
of  distance,  53 

Hoshida,  Miss,  67,  68 

Hotchkiss,  Mr.,  170 

Houghton,  Dr.,  Director  of  Medi- 
cal School,  Peking,  92 

Huang- Ho,  no 

Hume,  Dr.,  222 

Huntington,  Mrs.,  257 

Hurricane,  21 


Hoilo,  135 

Inada,  Professor,  66 

India,  Agra,  200;  Benares,  192; 
Bombay,  218;  Calcutta,  182, 
190;  Cawnpore,  198;  Darjeeling, 
184;  Pelhi,  206;  Fatehpur  Sikri, 
204 ;  Jaipur,  211;  Luckno w,  1 96 ; 
Madras,  222;  Poona,  218,  221; 
Vadala,  218 

Inland  Sea,  Japan,  78 

Ismailia,  249 


Jaggar,  Professor  T.  A.,  34 

Jaipur,  211 

Japan,  Enoshima,  55;  Inland  Sea, 
78;  Kamakura,  54;  Kobe,  78; 
Kyoto,  71,  77;  Miyajima,  79; 
Miyanoshita,  69;  Nara,  76; 
Nikko,  60^  Odawara,  69;  Tokyo, 
59»  63J  Yokohama,  54 

Japanese  dinner,  66,  68;  news- 
papers, 87;  theater,  58,  75 

Java,  Batavia,  165;  Boroboedoer, 
155;  Buitenzorg,  164;  Cheribon, 
159;  Djokjakarta,  152;  Garoet, 
160;  Soerabaia,  148;  Tosari, 
150;  Wonosobp,  158 

Java  Sea,  147 

Javanese  dances,  155;  hotels,  153 

Johnston,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  91 

Jolo,  141 


Jones,  Dr.,  President  of  Fukhien 

University,  [20,  123 
Judd,  Bill,  38,  41,  42,  43 


K 


Kabayama,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  58,  65 

Kahanamoku,  Duke,  43 

Kamakura,  54;  Daibutsu,  54 

Kandy,  227,  232 

Kapiolani,  39 

Kawakawa,  140 

Keene,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  54,  55,  68 

Kilauea,  34 

Kinchenjunga,  185,  186,  188 

Kinnear,  Dr.,  American  Mission 

Board,  Foochow,  120,  121,  123 
Kirk,  Mrs.,  130 
Kiu  Kiang,  113 
Kobe,  78 

Korea,  Fusan,  82;  Seoul,  83 
Kota  Baru,  145 

Kowananakoa,  Princess,  38,  39 
Kowloon,  125 
Kyoto,  71;  Doshisha,  71,  74;  Nijo 

Palace,  77 


Lake  Chuzenji,  62 

Lake  Hakone,  69 

Lanai,  37 

Laut  Island,  147 

Lawson,  Mr.,  182,  183 

Lebanon,  256 

Lee,  Peter,  36 

Lepers,  colony  at   Molokai,   37; 

Kalihi  Hospital,  41 
Light,  Sir  Francis,  172 
Lloyd,  Sir  George,  218 
Luau,  39,  42 
Lucknow,  196 
Luytjens,  Mr.,  207 


M 


Madoera  Island,  148 

Madras,  222 

Maeda,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Tamon,  59, 

68 
Malacca  Strait,  171 
Manila,  132,  133 
Marcus  Island,  49,  50 
Marseilles,  261 
Mathews,  Miss,  121 
Maui,  37 


272 


Index 


McBrayer,  Dr.,  134 
McKim,  Bishop,  67 
McLean,  Dr.  Franklin,  Professor 

of  Medicine,  Peking,  92,  107 
McNeal,  Mr.,  170 
Memphis,  255 
Milligan,  Mr.,  174 
Mindanao,  137 
Mindoro,  134 

Ming  Tombs,  Nanking,  114 
Mirage,  Red  Sea,  247 
Miyajima,  79 
Miyaki,  Professor,  54,  65 
Miyanoshita,  69 
Mizusaki,  Professor,  57,  63 
Moffet,  Mr.,  68 
Moffit,   Mr.,   American   Consul, 

Rangoon,  180 
Molokai,  37 
Mosher,  Bishop,  140 
Mount  Everest,  189 
Mount  Sinai,  248 
Mukden,  85 

Mukharji,  Sir  and  Lady  Nath,  191 
Munthe\  General,  105 


N 


Nakano,  63, 68, 76, 82, 87 

Nakasako,  Professor,  71,  75 

Nanking,  114;  Ming  Tombs,  114 

Nankow,  100 

Nara,  76;  Daibuteu,  77 

Navassas  Cay,  9 

Neff,     Mr.,    American    Mission 

Board,  Foochow,  120,  121 
Nickolay,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  257 
Nikko,  60 
Nogi,     General,     Hero  of  Port 

Arthur,  64 
Nuwara  Elyia,  234,  236 


Odawara,  69,  70 
Osawa,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  74 
Osborne,  Mr.,  117,  182,  218,  219, 
220, 221 

P 

Panama,  Ancon,  14;  Balboa,  13, 
14;  Colon,  11,  12;  Cristobal,  12; 
Panama  City,  12 

Panama  Canal,  13 

Panama    to    Hilo,    summary   of 


distance,  31;  steaming  record, 
28, 243 

Panay  Island,  135 

Paredes,  Mr.,  139 

Peabody,  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Francis, 
92,  94,  96 

Peak,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  122 

Peking,  89,  121;  American  Lega- 
tion, 94,  103;  Forbidden  City, 
90,  92,  93;  the  Great  Wall,  99; 
Lama  Temple,  103;  Rockefeller 
Hospital,  91,  107;  Summer 
Palace,  102;  Temple  of  Heaven, 
97;  Winter  Palace,  95 

Penang,  171 

Perak,  171 

Philippine  Islands,  Corregidor, 
133;  Iloilo,  134;  Jolo,  141; 
Zamboanga,  137 

Plimpton,  Miss  Arabella,  30 

Polonnaruwa,  229 

Poona,  218,  221 

Port  Said,  255 

Pulo  Laut,  144 

Pyramids,  Cairo,  251 


Raffles,  Sir  Stamford,  157,  168 
Rangoon,  175;  Shwe  Dagon  Pa- 
goda, 176 
Reading,  Viceroy  and  Lady,  202, 

211 
Red  Sea,  246 

Richardson,  Miss  Ivy,  33, 37 
Rizal,  Dr.,  138 

Ronaldshay,  Lord  and  Lady,  191 
Roots,  Bishop  and  Mrs.,  no,  in 
Ruddock,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  94,  96, 
130 

S 

St.  Clair,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  121 

Sakkara,  254 

Salisbury,  Dr.,  170 

Santa  Cruz,  137 

Sardinia,  260 

Sarnath,  193 

Saugor  Island,  182 

Schurman,  Minister  and  Mrs.,  103 

Scidmore,  Mr.,  Consul  at  Yoko- 
hama, 68 

Scott,  Miss,  67 

Scott,  Mr.,  Dean  of  Fukhien  Uni- 
versity, 120 


Index 


273 


Sekuku  Island,  147 

Semple,  Captain  and  Mrs.,  57 

Seoul,  83 

Shanghai,  116 

Shark,  capture  of,  27 

Sherwood,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  211 

Shingle,  Mrs.,  40 

Sibley,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  130,  131 

Sicily,  259 

Sigiriya,232 

Simpson,  Admiral  and  Mrs.,  39 

Singapore,  168 

Soerabaia,  148 

Song  of  the  Sea,  A,  241 

Speejacks,  13,  1 5 

Speight,  E.  E.,  Professor  of  Eng- 
lish Literature,  60 

Spencer,  Mrs.  Lorillard,  142 

Spooner,  Mr.  D.  B.,  202 

Stephen,  Mr.  A.,  130 

Stevens,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Frederick 
W.,  94,  105,  106 

Stewart,  Mrs.  Kennedy  Crawford, 
206,  208,  210 

Stockdale,  Mr.,  229 

Strauss,  Admiral,  132, 133 

Stromboli,  259 

Suez,  249 

Sulu  Sea,  141 

Sumatra,  167 

Surf  riding,  43 

Syria,  Baalbek,  256,  257;  Beirut, 
256 


Tablas  Island,  135;  Strait,  134 

Tait,    Mr.,    Manager    Chartered 
Bank  of  India,  56 

Taj-Mahal,  200;  Sonnet,  200 

Takahashi,  Mr.,  67 

Tang,  General  and  Mrs.,  94,  99 

Tawi  Tawi  Islands,  143 

Taylor,  Captain,  170 

Thomas,  Mr.  J.  A.,  103 

Tilton,  Colonel,  Chief  of  Artillery 
Service,  Corregidor,  134 

Todd,  General  and  Mrs.,  133, 134; 
Miss  Harriett,  133 

Tokyo,  57,  63;     American  Em- 
bassy, 63 ;  Doshisha,  64 

Tominaga,  Miss  Waki,  59 

Topping,  Mr.,  American  Mission 
Board,  Foochow,  120,  124 

Tosari,  150 

Treat,  Professor  and  Mrs.,  94 
18 


Trollope,  Bishop,  84 

Trotter,  Dr. ,  President  of  Board  of 

Health,  Honolulu,  38 
Tsurima,  Mr.,  59 
Tucker,  Colonel,  220 
Turk's  Island,  8 
Turtle  hunt,  19 

U 

Uchida,  Baroness,  64 
Uchimura,  Mr.  Kanzo,  68 
Uriu,  Admiral  Baron  S.,  68 


Vadala,  218,  222 

Vance,  Consul  and  Mrs.,  227,  237 

Veich,  Mr.,  American  Vice-Consul, 

Colombo,  226,  227,  237 
Verde  Island,  134 
Volcanoes,  Bromo,  151 ;  Etna,  259; 

Keanakakoi,  34;   Kilauea,   34; 

Merapi,  156;  Papandajan,  161; 

Stromboli,  259 

W 

Waddell,  Mr.  and  Mrs.,  71 

Waikiki,  37,  38,  43 

Wakefield,  Mr.,  170 

Walker,  Colonel  and  Mrs.,  13,  14 

Wall,  Mr.,  43 

Warren,  Ambassador  and  Mrs.,  65 

Watson,  Captain,  Naval  Attachi 

in  Tokyo,  68 
Weltevreden,  165 
Welzer,  Mr.,  Missionary,  Tokyo, 

,57 

Whangpoo,  116 

Wheeler,  Miss,  207,  210 

Wilder,  Gerritt  P.,  42 

Wilkinson,  Dr.  and  Mrs.,  121 

Williams,  Mr.,  Admeasurer  of 
Panama  Canal,  12 

Willingdon,  Lord  and  Lady,  223 

Wilson,  Dr.,  Professor  of  Chemis- 
try, Peking,  91 

Wilson,  Miss,  184 

Winship,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  North, 
American  Consul,  Bombay,  219, 
221 

Wireless  messages,  20,  26,  51 

Wisdom  II,  170 


274 


Index 


Wonosobo,  158 
Wu  Chang,  no,  in 
WuSue,  113 


Yamanaka,  Mrs.,  75 
Yangtze  River,  112 
Yeddo  Bay,  53 
Yokohama,  54 

Young,  Dr. ,  Associate  in  Medicine, 
Peking,  92, 107 


Y.  M.  C.  A.,  Foochow,  122;  Seoul, 

84;  Tokyo,  63 
Y.    W.    C.    A.,    Calcutta,    184; 

Colombo,  227;  Foochow,  122; 

Honolulu,    43;    Madras,    223; 

Peking,     94;     Rangoon,     178; 

Shanghai,  117;  Singapore,  170; 

Tokyo,  67;  Yokohama,  57 


Zamboanga,  137 


A    CHART  OF  ALOHA'S 


This  label  must  not  be  removed  from  this  book, 
nor  the  figures  thereon  altered. 


CONDITIONS  OF! 

May    only    be    boi 
three  months 

It  MUST  be  retui 
it  was  issued 

It    may    NOT    be 
subscriber's  h 

It    may    NOT    t 
without  sancti 

L( 

Including  Sundays, 

As  a  "CLASS  A 

As   a   "HOME" 
3  days  or  par 


UTH 


JLAJVr/C 


